I have a customer of mine that is looking at a beam car from a friend, but he wants to drive it on the streets of Lake Havasu? It is a mid engine beam car, king of like the old Johnny Speed and Chrome Cars.
I have a customer of mine that is looking at a beam car from a friend, but he wants to drive it on the streets of Lake Havasu? It is a mid engine beam car, king of like the old Johnny Speed and Chrome Cars.
At what point do you need to move the engine and transaxle back when installing longer arms? And how far back do they need to be moved? I'm looking at some 3x5 arms and before I buy them I want to know about this.
At what point do you need to move the engine and transaxle back when installing longer arms? And how far back do they need to be moved? I'm looking at some 3x5 arms and before I buy them I want to know about this.
We are always looking for ways to get affordability back into the offroad car market. I wanted to build myself a new pre runner but cant afford a $180,000 car so we are going to build our class 10 chassis in a radius roof 4 seater. This chassis was 100% cad designed to be as light as possible yet stronger than most cars built today. it will have a 128" wheelbase @ 85" wide with dirt tires. By keeping the weight of the car down we can go back to the old school and run a mendeola 2d. in my car I am going to run the new comero 3.6 liter vvt direct injected v6 with a small turbo @ 8 lbs of boost on pump gas or pemex it should easily put out 425 hp. the car will have 20" front and 20" rear travel.the weight should be about 2400 lbs when it is done sitting on 35" BFG projects and being it isour current class 10 car it will deffinatly be able to handle anything you through at it in the sand or hard pack. The reason for the 85" width is Mexico and most desert trails arent wide enough for the larger 5000lb pre runners being built today.watch this thing come to life as we build a new style car.the following pics in cad are the 2 seat class 10 car with a 118" wheel base wich if I had no kids is the car I would have. If you are a v8 guy dony worry it can handle a v8 also.also all the jigs and tables for the whole car are cad designed and laser cut.
We are always looking for ways to get affordability back into the offroad car market. I wanted to build myself a new pre runner but cant afford a $180,000 car so we are going to build our class 10 chassis in a radius roof 4 seater. This chassis was 100% cad designed to be as light as possible yet stronger than most cars built today. it will have a 128" wheelbase @ 85" wide with dirt tires. By keeping the weight of the car down we can go back to the old school and run a mendeola 2d. in my car I am going to run the new comero 3.6 liter vvt direct injected v6 with a small turbo @ 8 lbs of boost on pump gas or pemex it should easily put out 425 hp. the car will have 20" front and 20" rear travel.the weight should be about 2400 lbs when it is done sitting on 35" BFG projects and being it isour current class 10 car it will deffinatly be able to handle anything you through at it in the sand or hard pack. The reason for the 85" width is Mexico and most desert trails arent wide enough for the larger 5000lb pre runners being built today.watch this thing come to life as we build a new style car.the following pics in cad are the 2 seat class 10 car with a 118" wheel base wich if I had no kids is the car I would have. If you are a v8 guy dony worry it can handle a v8 also.also all the jigs and tables for the whole car are cad designed and laser cut.
Buggy sitting from last season. Checked bat voltage. Its 7.2. Put a 10 amp charge on it for the last 8 hours and its only 9.5 volts. Is there a special way to charge these very expensive dry cell bats ? Thanks Guys.
Buggy sitting from last season. Checked bat voltage. Its 7.2. Put a 10 amp charge on it for the last 8 hours and its only 9.5 volts. Is there a special way to charge these very expensive dry cell bats ? Thanks Guys.
Ok i finally got the buggy put together and i was wondering what the secrets are for adjusting the linkage for the dual master cylinders?
1/ How much gap should you have between the heim joints and the brake pedal arm? almost touching? Little Loose ?? 2/ Set it to have the rear brakes lock up first correct? 3/ Do you start with the rods common to the cylinders first or the threaded shaft that connects the heim joints to the pedal??
Thanks in advance
Ok i finally got the buggy put together and i was wondering what the secrets are for adjusting the linkage for the dual master cylinders?
1/ How much gap should you have between the heim joints and the brake pedal arm? almost touching? Little Loose ?? 2/ Set it to have the rear brakes lock up first correct? 3/ Do you start with the rods common to the cylinders first or the threaded shaft that connects the heim joints to the pedal??
I was out cruising in my dual sport buggy today when I started losing air in my left rear tire. I thought I picked up a nail or something, but it turns out there is a crack on the inside of my Douglas Billet Star wheel. (see photo for location of crack) Based on interior location of the crack, there is no way it was from an impact.
• Has anyone ween anything like this before? i.e. is this a known problem with Douglas? • I'm running a 350 HP subie with 33 x 12.50 Mud Terrain tires. It doesn't seem like that would stress the rim very much, except that I'm running on the street and generating a bit more torsional load than dirt/sand usage...
If anyone has a spare Douglas Billet Star (or two) they want to sell, please let me know. It's a 15 x 12, 5 wide, with 3.5" offset.
I was out cruising in my dual sport buggy today when I started losing air in my left rear tire. I thought I picked up a nail or something, but it turns out there is a crack on the inside of my Douglas Billet Star wheel. (see photo for location of crack) Based on interior location of the crack, there is no way it was from an impact.
• Has anyone ween anything like this before? i.e. is this a known problem with Douglas? • I'm running a 350 HP subie with 33 x 12.50 Mud Terrain tires. It doesn't seem like that would stress the rim very much, except that I'm running on the street and generating a bit more torsional load than dirt/sand usage...
If anyone has a spare Douglas Billet Star (or two) they want to sell, please let me know. It's a 15 x 12, 5 wide, with 3.5" offset.
Which V6 motor is best for duning? The Honda's, Nissan's, Subaru? I see a lot of these engines out there, but is one a lot better than the rest? Of course there are the 2.5, 3.0 and 3.5's of the various engines, so if considering one of these engines in a sandrail, which one should be on top and which one on bottom?
Which V6 motor is best for duning? The Honda's, Nissan's, Subaru? I see a lot of these engines out there, but is one a lot better than the rest? Of course there are the 2.5, 3.0 and 3.5's of the various engines, so if considering one of these engines in a sandrail, which one should be on top and which one on bottom?
come on chonch, last time i saw the chenowth was at G in march and the motor got tired of sand being fed thru it. i know youve torn the car apart, lets see some pics and whats goin on with it!!
come on chonch, last time i saw the chenowth was at G in march and the motor got tired of sand being fed thru it. i know youve torn the car apart, lets see some pics and whats goin on with it!!
Couldn't resist picking this up as it seems to be the Latest Outfront big thing. Not sure if I'll actually use it or finish my four -banger that's almost done. Tell me what you know about what adapters are compatiible, and how the ignition works with an aftermarket ems. 10.5 to 1 seems a little high to bolt-on a turbo...
Couldn't resist picking this up as it seems to be the Latest Outfront big thing. Not sure if I'll actually use it or finish my four -banger that's almost done. Tell me what you know about what adapters are compatiible, and how the ignition works with an aftermarket ems. 10.5 to 1 seems a little high to bolt-on a turbo...
I noticed all or most buggies have their engine and transaxle in inclined position compared to the frame floor (transaxle down & engine up).
What is the reason behind that ? I think this will make the buggy wheelie easier and will give better engine clearance. is this correct ? is there any other reasons ?
I noticed all or most buggies have their engine and transaxle in inclined position compared to the frame floor (transaxle down & engine up).
What is the reason behind that ? I think this will make the buggy wheelie easier and will give better engine clearance. is this correct ? is there any other reasons ?
I thought I would move this to the tech section. Here is the link for the previous progress. I have had some time to spend on it over the holidays and thought i would show the progress. Getting closer to take it to powder coat (RED).
I thought I would move this to the tech section. Here is the link for the previous progress. I have had some time to spend on it over the holidays and thought i would show the progress. Getting closer to take it to powder coat (RED).
I was replacing the blown-up brake drum on my VW IRS axel the way I have always done it, 3/4" socket driver, 36mm socket, persuasion bar and bolt to the drum countering bar. My friend stopped by and asked why I wasn't using an "axel nut whacker". I'ver heard of them before but I've never thought could provide the tourqe need to properly seat the drum. He told me that they can be used to take off the nut as well as put back on, and there not to expensive. Anyone ever use one of these, and where did you get it?
I was replacing the blown-up brake drum on my VW IRS axel the way I have always done it, 3/4" socket driver, 36mm socket, persuasion bar and bolt to the drum countering bar. My friend stopped by and asked why I wasn't using an "axel nut whacker". I'ver heard of them before but I've never thought could provide the tourqe need to properly seat the drum. He told me that they can be used to take off the nut as well as put back on, and there not to expensive. Anyone ever use one of these, and where did you get it?
I have a 2-seat LT Sand Limo with the 3.5 Honda (JA block) matched to a Mendi 2D with the G50 upgrade. The car is around 1,550 lbs. I primarily just dune the car (90%) but I also like racing at the hill and drags. The car has plenty of power to dune and will wheelie off the crest of a roller dune or across a hill. In my opinion, it does lack power in a huge bowl or when racing up olds. This is made worse by my gear ratios, as I have a huge gap between 2nd gear and 3rd. The car will totally bog down when hitting the hill if I shift from 2nd to 3rd. I think the extra power produced by the turbo will fix this problem.
This car has been super reliable with zero transaxle or motor issues over the last two and a half seasons. I love the reliability and it is not worth having a little extra power at the hill if I am going to lose that reliability. What I want is to have near the same reliability, run pump gas and have the extra power when I want it. I used to own a VW 2442 car with 10-20 lbs of boast. I got soooooo sick of the cost of race gas and the constant maintenance/rebuilding on the motor and transaxle. I know my driveline on my Limo will handle more HP, but I am assuming that the added stress from the turbo will shorten the life span of my 2D and CVs.
So, I have a few questions for the experts on here:
1) What parts am I going to need for the turbo upgrade if I just want a modest increase in horsepower and run pump gas? 2) What boast should I run 3) What HP gain could I expect? 4) Will I have to modify my wing or make any other significant modifications to my car? 5) What is it going to cost? 6) Will my car still be reliable? 7) Would you do it?
Here are a few photos of the car and a youtube clip of it hitting comp hill at Buttercup.
I have a 2-seat LT Sand Limo with the 3.5 Honda (JA block) matched to a Mendi 2D with the G50 upgrade. The car is around 1,550 lbs. I primarily just dune the car (90%) but I also like racing at the hill and drags. The car has plenty of power to dune and will wheelie off the crest of a roller dune or across a hill. In my opinion, it does lack power in a huge bowl or when racing up olds. This is made worse by my gear ratios, as I have a huge gap between 2nd gear and 3rd. The car will totally bog down when hitting the hill if I shift from 2nd to 3rd. I think the extra power produced by the turbo will fix this problem.
This car has been super reliable with zero transaxle or motor issues over the last two and a half seasons. I love the reliability and it is not worth having a little extra power at the hill if I am going to lose that reliability. What I want is to have near the same reliability, run pump gas and have the extra power when I want it. I used to own a VW 2442 car with 10-20 lbs of boast. I got soooooo sick of the cost of race gas and the constant maintenance/rebuilding on the motor and transaxle. I know my driveline on my Limo will handle more HP, but I am assuming that the added stress from the turbo will shorten the life span of my 2D and CVs.
So, I have a few questions for the experts on here:
1) What parts am I going to need for the turbo upgrade if I just want a modest increase in horsepower and run pump gas? 2) What boast should I run 3) What HP gain could I expect? 4) Will I have to modify my wing or make any other significant modifications to my car? 5) What is it going to cost? 6) Will my car still be reliable? 7) Would you do it?
Here are a few photos of the car and a youtube clip of it hitting comp hill at Buttercup.
Well, here is the simple explanation. Had a motor sitting in the corner of the shop for a year or three. Got the space and most of the tools. The weather is crappy for outside projects so in the shop I go. Figured it would be fun and I like to build stuff. Would be fun to drive. The guy's could all come over and help. Keeps me out of the tavern. We have no children so we might as well spend every dime.
These are all the reasons I told my wife as I explained this new car. Actually she really didn't care either way.
We have a Funco now that we love. Since it's pretty much just the way we want it and I still need something to occupy my mind I decided I needed another project.
Never built a sand car before so I will have to learn along the way.
So here we go.....
Bought this 05 Hayabusa motor in late 2005. I was going to build a car then but decided after a test ride at Winchester Bay dunes from King Sand Cars to just get one of their cars instead.
Well, here is the simple explanation. Had a motor sitting in the corner of the shop for a year or three. Got the space and most of the tools. The weather is crappy for outside projects so in the shop I go. Figured it would be fun and I like to build stuff. Would be fun to drive. The guy's could all come over and help. Keeps me out of the tavern. We have no children so we might as well spend every dime.
These are all the reasons I told my wife as I explained this new car. Actually she really didn't care either way.
We have a Funco now that we love. Since it's pretty much just the way we want it and I still need something to occupy my mind I decided I needed another project.
Never built a sand car before so I will have to learn along the way.
So here we go.....
Bought this 05 Hayabusa motor in late 2005. I was going to build a car then but decided after a test ride at Winchester Bay dunes from King Sand Cars to just get one of their cars instead.
Im modifying my buddies Quicksand Performance LS1 4 seater to handle some light family trail deserting better. Unfortunatly, QSP frames were'nt made very well so Im correctig alot of the dead tubes and and much needed support, triangulation, and gussets to keep the flex down to a minimum. Im also beefing up the front A-arms and boxing in the rear. My question is, what size material do most Dual sports use for the Tie Rods? I have an array of DOM Tubing of different sizes. Also, The Rail has a Charlynn fluid pump to assist the Rack.
Im thinking 1.25x.090 DOM, or should i bump up to .120. Any tips woyuld be greatly appreciated.
There aren't alot of tech threads of dune to dual conversions but i will post info and pics when completed.
Im modifying my buddies Quicksand Performance LS1 4 seater to handle some light family trail deserting better. Unfortunatly, QSP frames were'nt made very well so Im correctig alot of the dead tubes and and much needed support, triangulation, and gussets to keep the flex down to a minimum. Im also beefing up the front A-arms and boxing in the rear. My question is, what size material do most Dual sports use for the Tie Rods? I have an array of DOM Tubing of different sizes. Also, The Rail has a Charlynn fluid pump to assist the Rack.
Im thinking 1.25x.090 DOM, or should i bump up to .120. Any tips woyuld be greatly appreciated.
There aren't alot of tech threads of dune to dual conversions but i will post info and pics when completed.
Sold my 4 seater earlier this year, but actually started this one back in Dec 08. Selling he 4 seater was motivation to get going on this one again. Should be hittin the sand next week some time. Aluminum work will happen this winter when it is pouring here in Oregon.
Sold my 4 seater earlier this year, but actually started this one back in Dec 08. Selling he 4 seater was motivation to get going on this one again. Should be hittin the sand next week some time. Aluminum work will happen this winter when it is pouring here in Oregon.
I'm designing a chassis to accept pretty much any motor tranny combination/configuration, so if you don't mind, i'd like to see any pics you have, and post what the engine and transmission are being shown. Doing this so I can kinda get an idea of where I could make a few key mount points for subframes, but the chassis would not have to change. If you have some more info, like measurements that would be cool also.
If this topic gets enough info, it would prob. be helpful to anyone who's wanting to do a build and would like to see what different options would look like and that could try to design around them. I've seen lots of topics asking for info on one powerplant/transmission or the other, so it would be nice to have them all organized into one topic for fast browsing.
Pictures i'm looking for are just of the motor compartment, and maybe some close up rear shots so all angles can be seen with exhaust, intakes, turbo's, etc......
So, mid engine, rear engine, cvt, automatic, hayabusa or LS7, it doesn't matter, just post up what ya go and give as much info as ya want.
I'm designing a chassis to accept pretty much any motor tranny combination/configuration, so if you don't mind, i'd like to see any pics you have, and post what the engine and transmission are being shown. Doing this so I can kinda get an idea of where I could make a few key mount points for subframes, but the chassis would not have to change. If you have some more info, like measurements that would be cool also.
If this topic gets enough info, it would prob. be helpful to anyone who's wanting to do a build and would like to see what different options would look like and that could try to design around them. I've seen lots of topics asking for info on one powerplant/transmission or the other, so it would be nice to have them all organized into one topic for fast browsing.
Pictures i'm looking for are just of the motor compartment, and maybe some close up rear shots so all angles can be seen with exhaust, intakes, turbo's, etc......
So, mid engine, rear engine, cvt, automatic, hayabusa or LS7, it doesn't matter, just post up what ya go and give as much info as ya want.
I never did the MilSpec wiring harness and have to remove my intake to remove the harness from the injectors, variable cams, crank sensor, etc. I do have enough harness to maybe roll the engine back from the trans maybe 10"-12" My question is: Can I take the clutch end of the trans and go up in the air and back and then drop the end with the shift rod down through the bottom between the brackets where it bolts front and back. This would save me probably 2 hours of work. The width does not look like a problem but the length getting up and over the front bracket and then dropping down through.
I never did the MilSpec wiring harness and have to remove my intake to remove the harness from the injectors, variable cams, crank sensor, etc. I do have enough harness to maybe roll the engine back from the trans maybe 10"-12" My question is: Can I take the clutch end of the trans and go up in the air and back and then drop the end with the shift rod down through the bottom between the brackets where it bolts front and back. This would save me probably 2 hours of work. The width does not look like a problem but the length getting up and over the front bracket and then dropping down through.
This summer when I rebuild the 2d I would like to also add a pump. Please post up some pics and ideas on what to run, how you plumbed it, etc. I remember Bill at Az Transaxle telling me there are a couple of types of pumps in different price ranges. I think he said a pump with rubber vanes will work but you need a good filter so you dont run metal through it. I assume you run it off a separate switch and once the oil is warmed up turn it on.
This summer when I rebuild the 2d I would like to also add a pump. Please post up some pics and ideas on what to run, how you plumbed it, etc. I remember Bill at Az Transaxle telling me there are a couple of types of pumps in different price ranges. I think he said a pump with rubber vanes will work but you need a good filter so you dont run metal through it. I assume you run it off a separate switch and once the oil is warmed up turn it on.
Since 05 I have had my motor out probably 4 times for trannies, clutches, and 1 broken motor the first year. Never thought much of it and it has never been a problem but it is 440 lbs hanging on just the 4 studs. Anyone ever had a problem doing this. I have left it for days hanging there. (Mendi 2D)
Since 05 I have had my motor out probably 4 times for trannies, clutches, and 1 broken motor the first year. Never thought much of it and it has never been a problem but it is 440 lbs hanging on just the 4 studs. Anyone ever had a problem doing this. I have left it for days hanging there. (Mendi 2D)
Building a 2.5 turbo and about to order the turbo part of things, I live in Oregon so it's mostly cooler here. We do plan to travel south and to Idaho occasionally. Do we need or is it beneficial to have the intercooler when we'll spend most of the time in 70 or less degree weather? Is their a danger i running it at Glamis without one if we travel south? Shooting for the 350ish range don't think the tranny will handle any more than that.
Building a 2.5 turbo and about to order the turbo part of things, I live in Oregon so it's mostly cooler here. We do plan to travel south and to Idaho occasionally. Do we need or is it beneficial to have the intercooler when we'll spend most of the time in 70 or less degree weather? Is their a danger i running it at Glamis without one if we travel south? Shooting for the 350ish range don't think the tranny will handle any more than that.
These are pics of myself machining the gear carrier on JWCARGUY transaxle for COGBOX (RC - Trans). I am boring out the case to fit the 2d main shaft bearing, and machining the nose cone.
These are pics of myself machining the gear carrier on JWCARGUY transaxle for COGBOX (RC - Trans). I am boring out the case to fit the 2d main shaft bearing, and machining the nose cone.
Hey guys so i have got everything finally ironed out and have got the whole $$$$$$$ thing taken care of...... So I just picked up the chassis today... I am building a 4 seater dual sport (mostly desert ). I am putting in a LS2 550hp with a s5 tranny... still working that one out It is a 1 3/4" chromoloy chasis. This think is going to be a blast to build and even more fun to drive....
These are the pics from picking it up from Kevin Boozer at toys fro big boys (951) 966-7643. He fully tabbed this whole car out with a custom radiator mount and lightbar / roof rack for the top, in just 2 days.. He did awesome work and is a great guy to work with and really knows his stuff.. If you guys ever need any work done I would suggest going to him he will give you a great price and most important he will get it done fast and does goooooooddddddd work..... Thanks again Kevin...
Here is the beauty
Hey guys so i have got everything finally ironed out and have got the whole $$$$$$$ thing taken care of...... So I just picked up the chassis today... I am building a 4 seater dual sport (mostly desert ). I am putting in a LS2 550hp with a s5 tranny... still working that one out It is a 1 3/4" chromoloy chasis. This think is going to be a blast to build and even more fun to drive....
These are the pics from picking it up from Kevin Boozer at toys fro big boys (951) 966-7643. He fully tabbed this whole car out with a custom radiator mount and lightbar / roof rack for the top, in just 2 days.. He did awesome work and is a great guy to work with and really knows his stuff.. If you guys ever need any work done I would suggest going to him he will give you a great price and most important he will get it done fast and does goooooooddddddd work..... Thanks again Kevin...
Yes, I guess you can notch tubing with a plasma cutter, but with so many better options, why would you?
I bring this up because of an article in the latest CRAWL magazine (July/August 2010). The article is about the Pipemaster tool, which I agree can be a useful tool to many fabricators, especially home-fabricators (which the article seems to tailor to).
The article specifically says to notch the tube with a plasma cutter. It does not mention any other ways to notch tubing, of which there are many.
Granted, this is a rock-crawler magazine and not a buggy or off-road racing magazine, but still... plasma cutter?
I have been to more than 30 different fabrication shops, most of them build either sand cars or off-road race vehicles, a few build rock crawlers, and I have interviewed many of the top fabricators in the sand car industry. I also know MANY home-fabricators, some VERY talented, some just getting started.
I have NEVER heard one person, beginner or professional, tell me they notch tubing with a plasma cutter.
Not to mention most home-fabricators probably don't own a plasma cutter but could properly notch tubing with another way that costs way less than a plasma cutter.
Again, I'm not saying it can't be done, sure it can. But you would have to be DAMN GOOD with a plasma cutter to get it close, then it would still require some time with a grinder to clean it up.
Of course the magazine didn't actually show pictures of the plasma cutter being used, they just showed a finished joint that fit well.............. I'm sure after lots of time with a grinder.
I've seen old school fabricators that can notch a tube with a cut-off saw (at a few odd angles), then spend five minutes on the bench grinder and have a perfect fit. So yes, there are many ways to notch a tube, I just never thought a magazine would suggest a plasma cutter as the "best" way.
Thoughts?
Yes, I guess you can notch tubing with a plasma cutter, but with so many better options, why would you?
I bring this up because of an article in the latest CRAWL magazine (July/August 2010). The article is about the Pipemaster tool, which I agree can be a useful tool to many fabricators, especially home-fabricators (which the article seems to tailor to).
The article specifically says to notch the tube with a plasma cutter. It does not mention any other ways to notch tubing, of which there are many.
Granted, this is a rock-crawler magazine and not a buggy or off-road racing magazine, but still... plasma cutter?
I have been to more than 30 different fabrication shops, most of them build either sand cars or off-road race vehicles, a few build rock crawlers, and I have interviewed many of the top fabricators in the sand car industry. I also know MANY home-fabricators, some VERY talented, some just getting started.
I have NEVER heard one person, beginner or professional, tell me they notch tubing with a plasma cutter.
Not to mention most home-fabricators probably don't own a plasma cutter but could properly notch tubing with another way that costs way less than a plasma cutter.
Again, I'm not saying it can't be done, sure it can. But you would have to be DAMN GOOD with a plasma cutter to get it close, then it would still require some time with a grinder to clean it up.
Of course the magazine didn't actually show pictures of the plasma cutter being used, they just showed a finished joint that fit well.............. I'm sure after lots of time with a grinder.
I've seen old school fabricators that can notch a tube with a cut-off saw (at a few odd angles), then spend five minutes on the bench grinder and have a perfect fit. So yes, there are many ways to notch a tube, I just never thought a magazine would suggest a plasma cutter as the "best" way.
the 2275 in el burro has oil pressure issues. its full flowed with a berg pump, a giant (_|_) remote filter, stock cooler and stock sump. the problem is this; if i rap the car up real quick/accelerate fast or run at high rpms, the oil light comes on as if its running out of oil. i have to let it idle for a couple seconds before the pressure is back and the light goes out, it makes for climbin the dunes a real challenge sometimes. can the stock cooler in the fan shroud be contributing to this issue? i know alot of people run full flowed engines with stock sumps and have no issues with oil supply, what gives here? im planning on putting in a nice sized stacked plate cooler with fan while the engine is out for other repairs to help with the oh so toasty oil
the 2275 in el burro has oil pressure issues. its full flowed with a berg pump, a giant (_|_) remote filter, stock cooler and stock sump. the problem is this; if i rap the car up real quick/accelerate fast or run at high rpms, the oil light comes on as if its running out of oil. i have to let it idle for a couple seconds before the pressure is back and the light goes out, it makes for climbin the dunes a real challenge sometimes. can the stock cooler in the fan shroud be contributing to this issue? i know alot of people run full flowed engines with stock sumps and have no issues with oil supply, what gives here? im planning on putting in a nice sized stacked plate cooler with fan while the engine is out for other repairs to help with the oh so toasty oil
I droped my car off today at fastlane in upland, Kevin seems like a stand up guy & very knowledgable. I'm going to have a new wing made, midboards repacked & new seals, trailing arm bushings replaced, all hardware inspected. I should get the car back mid next week. I'll keep you guy's posted on the service.
I droped my car off today at fastlane in upland, Kevin seems like a stand up guy & very knowledgable. I'm going to have a new wing made, midboards repacked & new seals, trailing arm bushings replaced, all hardware inspected. I should get the car back mid next week. I'll keep you guy's posted on the service.
I'm gathering parts for my 2 seat mid engine buggy project. It will have a stock LS1 with a 2d and 930 cv's. Should I buy chrome moly or 300m axles for it?
I'm gathering parts for my 2 seat mid engine buggy project. It will have a stock LS1 with a 2d and 930 cv's. Should I buy chrome moly or 300m axles for it?
bought unfinished longtravel project need to set up rack and tierods need tips on this i dont want no bump steer. also need to know when limit straps are needed hopefully someone can drop me some wisdom to make my task easier thank you
bought unfinished longtravel project need to set up rack and tierods need tips on this i dont want no bump steer. also need to know when limit straps are needed hopefully someone can drop me some wisdom to make my task easier thank you
How do I tell if my beam has 8 in. or 10 in. shock towers? Where do I measure to see what I have. I bought a beam and I need to know which shocks to buy.
How do I tell if my beam has 8 in. or 10 in. shock towers? Where do I measure to see what I have. I bought a beam and I need to know which shocks to buy.
Well first off it aint pretty but it's my first of this magnitude. So I'll build her how I think it goes with advice from here. Run it a few months with rusty bars and dirty engine and tear it down for summer, powder, paint and polish her and then she'll be sweet for next year. The front end was a real challenge. The bushings for the trailing arms would fit tight into the beam and tight onto the arms, but no way they were going into each other. Nobody I knew had a reamer so I took a hone and honed out the beam until they would slip snugly into the beam. I then took a brake hone and honed out the inside of the bushing until the arm fit the same way. Whew what a nitemare. Next problem was the arms are designed for an aftermarket spindle that is straight not designed like a stock spindle. The top link bolt required a bunch of spacers on the back side since the arm wouldn't fit into the cupped part of the spindle. Since the stock spindle is angled this required a ton of spacers in the bottom. So much so that the retaining bolt that goes through the arms wouldn't line up with the slot in the link bolt. I had to grind the upper arm down so it would fit in the cupped area of the top arm and I just used 1 spacer in their and that allowed me to use fewer spacers in the bottom. It all fits right now, but I'm afraid to look at my camber. What I am going to do is pull the bottom arm and make a spacer that fits between the arm and the bushing so the arm becomes off set with the top one. Then I figured the length and cut the tie rod's, so their just waiting to be tacked. Next up was the steering tubes, so I mocked up the quick release, the upper u-joint, and the lower tube. Waiting on the lower u-joint to finalize and they can be welded. The floors are cut to fit and will be tabbed in as soon as my tabs come in. I'm keeping them on top as I like the way it finishes out the interior. With the pedals set in place I threw some 2x4's in to get the height and angle of the seat and the shifter. Not sure of the height of the shifter I may have it to high, I just don't want it to hit my leg as in other rails. Is there any issues with the shifter being so high? I also mocked up the placement of the gas tank as well. Once I get the measurements of everything a few hours with a welder and this thing will really be in good shape.
Well first off it aint pretty but it's my first of this magnitude. So I'll build her how I think it goes with advice from here. Run it a few months with rusty bars and dirty engine and tear it down for summer, powder, paint and polish her and then she'll be sweet for next year. The front end was a real challenge. The bushings for the trailing arms would fit tight into the beam and tight onto the arms, but no way they were going into each other. Nobody I knew had a reamer so I took a hone and honed out the beam until they would slip snugly into the beam. I then took a brake hone and honed out the inside of the bushing until the arm fit the same way. Whew what a nitemare. Next problem was the arms are designed for an aftermarket spindle that is straight not designed like a stock spindle. The top link bolt required a bunch of spacers on the back side since the arm wouldn't fit into the cupped part of the spindle. Since the stock spindle is angled this required a ton of spacers in the bottom. So much so that the retaining bolt that goes through the arms wouldn't line up with the slot in the link bolt. I had to grind the upper arm down so it would fit in the cupped area of the top arm and I just used 1 spacer in their and that allowed me to use fewer spacers in the bottom. It all fits right now, but I'm afraid to look at my camber. What I am going to do is pull the bottom arm and make a spacer that fits between the arm and the bushing so the arm becomes off set with the top one. Then I figured the length and cut the tie rod's, so their just waiting to be tacked. Next up was the steering tubes, so I mocked up the quick release, the upper u-joint, and the lower tube. Waiting on the lower u-joint to finalize and they can be welded. The floors are cut to fit and will be tabbed in as soon as my tabs come in. I'm keeping them on top as I like the way it finishes out the interior. With the pedals set in place I threw some 2x4's in to get the height and angle of the seat and the shifter. Not sure of the height of the shifter I may have it to high, I just don't want it to hit my leg as in other rails. Is there any issues with the shifter being so high? I also mocked up the placement of the gas tank as well. Once I get the measurements of everything a few hours with a welder and this thing will really be in good shape.
Anyone out there who is looking at building a buggy before desert season or in the market to buy one. What are your requirements and what style you looking for rear engine, mid engine, mid travel, long travel, 2 seat, 4 seat, etc. Can I get some info from fellow duners looking for what I mentioned.
Anyone out there who is looking at building a buggy before desert season or in the market to buy one. What are your requirements and what style you looking for rear engine, mid engine, mid travel, long travel, 2 seat, 4 seat, etc. Can I get some info from fellow duners looking for what I mentioned.
I am considering new tires for my car and would like some opinions.
First of I currently have Xtreme 38 Dominators with a number 2 cup on the car and haven't had any problems with the Xtremes other than it is just too much tire. I have owned three sets of Xtereme's of various sizes and have never had an issue with them and they have actually held air much better then the STU's I've had in the past. I only state this because I know there are some horror stories out there about the Xtremes but my personal experience has been good.
Now I'm ready to spring for a new tire with less bite. The challenge that I have is that I need the height of the 38's since the suspension was designed around that dimension at full compression but I need less bite. I'm considering the STU Sand Blasters but am torn on a number 1 or 2 cup and the rounder profile of the STU's. I'm also considering the Xtreme 35 Revolutions which have a flatter profile, still torn on the number 1 or 2 cup here also.
My car has an S4D, weighs just less than 3000 lbs and put 490Hp to the ground.
Any ideas of first hand experiences would be helpful.
I am considering new tires for my car and would like some opinions.
First of I currently have Xtreme 38 Dominators with a number 2 cup on the car and haven't had any problems with the Xtremes other than it is just too much tire. I have owned three sets of Xtereme's of various sizes and have never had an issue with them and they have actually held air much better then the STU's I've had in the past. I only state this because I know there are some horror stories out there about the Xtremes but my personal experience has been good.
Now I'm ready to spring for a new tire with less bite. The challenge that I have is that I need the height of the 38's since the suspension was designed around that dimension at full compression but I need less bite. I'm considering the STU Sand Blasters but am torn on a number 1 or 2 cup and the rounder profile of the STU's. I'm also considering the Xtreme 35 Revolutions which have a flatter profile, still torn on the number 1 or 2 cup here also.
My car has an S4D, weighs just less than 3000 lbs and put 490Hp to the ground.
Any ideas of first hand experiences would be helpful.
There is no racing forum so I figured I post in here. The race is August 20th, so we've got just under 4 weeks to get this car together. This is how the car looked last Wednesday night when three of us spent an evening at the shop. I was able to get the front end done, arms, shocks, spindles, rotors/calipers, brake lines on the car. Two of our other team members installed the trans and engine. We usually have five or six guys at the shop on work night but it was nice only having three. Less people and more tools.
Anyone going to the race? If you're at the qualifying on Wednesday or tech/contingency on Thursday and see our car come by and say hello. I'm the big ugly guy with a shaved head and goatee. I don't bite, I hug.
What it should look like...
There is no racing forum so I figured I post in here. The race is August 20th, so we've got just under 4 weeks to get this car together. This is how the car looked last Wednesday night when three of us spent an evening at the shop. I was able to get the front end done, arms, shocks, spindles, rotors/calipers, brake lines on the car. Two of our other team members installed the trans and engine. We usually have five or six guys at the shop on work night but it was nice only having three. Less people and more tools.
Anyone going to the race? If you're at the qualifying on Wednesday or tech/contingency on Thursday and see our car come by and say hello. I'm the big ugly guy with a shaved head and goatee. I don't bite, I hug.
Here is a new concept I have been working on. Hayabusa powered mini buggy. Front and rear a-arms, 104-105'' wheelbase. 80'' front track width, 88-90'' rear. Front is finished with 20'' travel. The car will have King 2.0 piggybacks all around. Most of the car will be built from 1.50x.083'' chromoly tubing. A lot of the inner webs will be .065''. When I have figured out what I want to run for a rear drive unit, I will get the rear suspension finished. Let me know what ya think?
Here is a new concept I have been working on. Hayabusa powered mini buggy. Front and rear a-arms, 104-105'' wheelbase. 80'' front track width, 88-90'' rear. Front is finished with 20'' travel. The car will have King 2.0 piggybacks all around. Most of the car will be built from 1.50x.083'' chromoly tubing. A lot of the inner webs will be .065''. When I have figured out what I want to run for a rear drive unit, I will get the rear suspension finished. Let me know what ya think?
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May 15 2010, 12:10 AM
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It is a 1 3/4" chromoloy chasis. This think is going to be a blast to build and even more fun to drive....
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