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Educating and Stimulating the Minds of those who play in Glamis! |
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 Nov 8 2005, 10:37 PM
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#1
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Dune Master
 Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 13-April 04 From: Orange County Member No.: 4,715 Reputation: 1 pts  |
Well this is our next project (my gf's and mine); with the help of my father of course.... It is a mini rail, for sand and dirt. The specs-- 100" wheelbase, 76" front track width, 84" rear track width (both with paddles on) Paddles will be 26" tall in the rear and 25" tall in the front all on 12" Douglas beadlocks. The front is a-arm, 23" of travel, 6* rake built into the front with 5* of camber change and less than 1/32" of bumpsteer. It will use a 11.35" stroke Fox coilover air shock, ATV racing's front hub assembly with my upright and dual 2" calipers. The rear is a trailing arm setup with 20" travel with 2.0 12" stroke Fox coilovers with piggybacks and a 2.0 14" stroke Fox bypass, microstubs etc. The motor is a 01 Yamaha R1 motor that will have a stock IHI subaru turbo mated to it. The power will be driven to a Sand Bullet rear drive carrier with a 4 piston caliper. CNC reverse hanging pedals, Gear-One rack, calipers and billet steering housing, PWR radiator with all AN fittings, spal fan etc, PRP lowbacks with adjustable headrest and removable cushion, Crow harnesses and some HID's. We have only been working on it for about a week now on our free time so little by little it is getting there. It is all mild steel (for you haters) mainly all 1.25" .095 and the arms are probably going to be 1.125". Here are some pics; will update often too.....
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mymini4.JPG ( 79.93K )
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mymini3.JPG ( 64.66K )
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mymini1.JPG ( 69K )
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Nov 8 2005, 10:43 PM
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#2
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Dune Master
Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 13-April 04 From: Orange County Member No.: 4,715 Reputation: 1 pts |
More pictures; these are from this weekend. Got the A-pillars hung basically where they are going to go. We like to run the A pillar bars all the way to the floor, have seen enough rails that have flipped and sheered the top of the cage off. Our truggy is done the same way as well as a few TT. It is definately a pain in the A$$ to bend up those two tubes but worth it in the end. We use a digital angle finder; which is within 1/10 of a degree....pretty damn close to perfect, also everything is level; my camera skills just arent up to par. More pics...
This post has been edited by f1prerun: Nov 8 2005, 10:50 PM
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Nov 8 2005, 10:48 PM
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#3
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Dune Master
Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 13-April 04 From: Orange County Member No.: 4,715 Reputation: 1 pts |
Excuse the messy garage; we have a lot going on between now and Thanksgiving. More pics from yesterday and today.... Got the dash bar on basically where it is going to go, set the middle bars, have some of the braces done and started tacking everything. You can see the picture of how the front bumper is going to look and we should have the front winshield V set tomorrow.
edited *we didnt cut the jig apart until it was all tacked/welded in place* This post has been edited by f1prerun: Nov 8 2005, 10:54 PM
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mymini8.JPG ( 68.84K )
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mymini11.JPG ( 54.31K )
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mymini12.JPG ( 58.1K )
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mymini13.JPG ( 77.24K )
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mymini15.JPG ( 58.68K )
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Nov 8 2005, 10:48 PM
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#4
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"Brotherhood of the Slap"
 Group: Members Posts: 2,344 Joined: 9-February 04 From: Planet Earth Member No.: 4,352 Reputation: 0 pts  |
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Nov 8 2005, 10:51 PM
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#5
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Dune Master
Group: Members Posts: 998 Joined: 23-August 04 From: Murrieta / Irvine Member No.: 5,177 Reputation: 3 pts |
Looks good Jason
 
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Nov 8 2005, 11:10 PM
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#6
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"Brotherhood of the Slap"
Group: Members Posts: 2,962 Joined: 28-May 04 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 4,875 Reputation: 4 pts |
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Nov 8 2005, 11:18 PM
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#7
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Special ops
 Group: Members Posts: 165 Joined: 9-August 04 From: Arizona Member No.: 5,120 Reputation: 0 pts |
It’s cool to see fabrication pictures that show the jig still in place. It presents the whole process of fabrication. Keep the pics coming.
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Nov 8 2005, 11:23 PM
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#8
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Dune Master
Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 13-April 04 From: Orange County Member No.: 4,715 Reputation: 1 pts |
Yup, everything was tacked with it still in place, just cutting away here and there; hopefully most of it will be standing by itself this weekend. Also, thanks for the comments guys.
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 Nov 9 2005, 01:39 AM
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#9
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Grunt
 Group: Members Posts: 32 Joined: 7-November 05 From: In the shop Member No.: 8,587 Reputation: 0 pts |
Hey F1...that thing looks fun. Did you or your dad design it? any reason for the twin tube backbone? and why so much fnt travel on such a short wheelbase car? how well do those air shocks work at 2 to 1? last question...w/o fnt suspension how did you determine such miniscule bumpsteer already, are you plotting the points in geometry pro or something similar? Puttin' it down on paper? I'm not hatin' --just really curious & interested to hear the planning process. Oh and BTW mild steel is totally half-a$$. ;-)
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Nov 9 2005, 05:12 AM
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#10
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Dune Master
Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 13-April 04 From: Orange County Member No.: 4,715 Reputation: 1 pts |
I dont know what a twin tube back bone is. I drew up everything on autocad in 2d. After I figured everything and it cycled how I wanted it I transferred all the chassis and suspension into 3d making sure everything had clearance etc.. All the tabs and mounts are laser cut so as long as it is built to the drawing, and the drawing is correct there should be no problem. We have changed a few thing on the car from the drawing, just because of how it looked in "real life". Suspension is pretty easy to do as long as you have all the parts to take dimensions from. As far as the travel goes, why not? It's there if I need it and if it doesnt work out, I can limit it. The front and rear are pretty close to having the same bump/droop except for the front has a few inchs more of bump. The Fox shocks I am running in the front are a coilover air shock, which means you run the dual rate setup of coils but can fine tune with the nitrogen as long as your valving is good to go. Look at kgcabs "the gabe"; same front shocks and alumicraft runs the same setup. I heard good things about them so I figured I would try....and for the price; why not.
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Nov 9 2005, 06:53 AM
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#11
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"Preferred Sponsor"
Group: Members Posts: 10,605 Joined: 5-January 05 From: Lakeside, California Member No.: 6,185 Reputation: 5 pts |
That looks great. Have fun with it and be careful. I will be there some day.
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Nov 9 2005, 09:17 AM
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#12
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"Brotherhood of the Slap"
Group: Members Posts: 2,762 Joined: 11-March 04 Member No.: 4,534 Reputation: 2 pts |
Very cool, Keep the pics coming!
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Nov 9 2005, 04:08 PM
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#13
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Grunt
Group: Members Posts: 32 Joined: 7-November 05 From: In the shop Member No.: 8,587 Reputation: 0 pts |
I was referring to the two tubes running down the center in the cabin...looks like a backbone. Just wondering why you went that route that's all...welding tubes side by each. Sounds like you've got it all worked out though. I agree with you on the fnt suspension...I just wonder how "wallowy" it will be with those air shocks and that much travel. Looks like alot of fun...those motors scream.
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Nov 9 2005, 05:07 PM
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#14
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"Brotherhood of the Slap"
Group: Members Posts: 4,318 Joined: 14-July 04 From: Phoenix Member No.: 5,020 Reputation: 3 pts |
Sounds like a neat little car
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Nov 10 2005, 10:28 AM
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#15
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Special ops
Group: Members Posts: 143 Joined: 26-August 05 From: Rancho Cuamonga,CA Member No.: 7,832 Reputation: 0 pts |
QUOTE(lowkey @ Nov 9 2005, 01:31 AM) Hey F1...that thing looks fun. Did you or your dad design it? any reason for the twin tube backbone? and why so much fnt travel on such a short wheelbase car? how well do those air shocks work at 2 to 1? last question...w/o fnt suspension how did you determine such miniscule bumpsteer already, are you plotting the points in geometry pro or something similar? Puttin' it down on paper? I'm not hatin' --just really curious & interested to hear the planning process. Oh and BTW mild steel is totally half-a$$. ;-) [right][snapback]1268394[/snapback][/right]  
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Nov 10 2005, 06:40 PM
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#16
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Dune Master
Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 13-April 04 From: Orange County Member No.: 4,715 Reputation: 1 pts |
The only reason we run the two bottom tubes that way is because it makes the car more "stout" so to speak. I could have ran them to the front of the chassis like a lot of cars but with the weight of the suspension, etc.. hanging off the front; just didnt think it was a good idea especially for a mini rail. I'd rather have it be stronger and weigh a little more than worry about a few pounds of tube. As far as the shocks go, alumicraft and others havent had a problem with them; so I am trying them out and for what I pay for the Fox's I couldn't say no. The rear will have regular coilovers and a bypass to help tune everything since most of the weight is back there.
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Nov 11 2005, 02:03 PM
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#17
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Dune Master
Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 13-April 04 From: Orange County Member No.: 4,715 Reputation: 1 pts |
Few updates. Front bumper is mocked up-finished that last night. Only worked for a few hours today and got the front bumper welded on, the "V" in the window mocked up and the rear bumper on. Will finish it all later this afternoon.
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mymini18.JPG ( 156.46K )
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mymini19.JPG ( 183.3K )
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mymini20.JPG ( 178.25K )
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mymini21.JPG ( 174.09K )
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Nov 11 2005, 02:41 PM
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#18
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"Brotherhood of the Slap"
Group: Members Posts: 2,425 Joined: 10-October 02 From: Gilbert ,AZ Member No.: 2,242 Reputation: 7 pts |
Looks cool! Why the "V " in the windshield area?
Goin for that Truggy look? A mini pick-up would be new. As for the gas springs. The spring rate (gas pressure) will go up with heat and therefore will be harder to damp consistently. You will have to map the temp and valve when you think it's median. When it get's too hot, (whoops), not enough valving. Too cold (normal duning), and too much valving. Bypasses won't cure a variable and changing spring rate. Sumthin to think about. Carl |
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Nov 11 2005, 03:50 PM
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#19
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Dune Master
Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 13-April 04 From: Orange County Member No.: 4,715 Reputation: 1 pts |
The front has the coilover/air shocks (all in one) which should work great as long as they get dialed in correctly. After talking to Fox, Kartek and McKenzies about the shocks; I shouldn't have any problems getting them to work right only because of the weight of the vehicle. The said set the ride height with the coils and basically adjust the nitrogen pressure to dial in the ride. Also the bypasses and these shocks must work since Alumicraft has been using these for a while. In the rear I am running a regular 2.0 piggy back coilover and a bypass on the rear of this car so I wont have any problems with controlling the suspension. The V adds some strength but looks more like a mini 10 car plus I am used to driving vehicles with it so it would be weird not to have it.
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Nov 11 2005, 08:00 PM
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#20
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Special ops
Group: Members Posts: 293 Joined: 20-October 04 From: South County, OC. Member No.: 5,502 Reputation: 0 pts |
Well looks like it's coming together fairly well so far. I wouldn't stress the dual rate shocks, Nitrogen is fairly inert when it comes to heat so the spring rate won't vary much. Only thing I don't like is the static friction of the larger air seals but it's far from a major issue.
The dual center tube frame is a little different but should work well, lord knows you can't get much longer a-arms under it
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Nov 12 2005, 07:47 PM
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#21
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Dune Master
Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 13-April 04 From: Orange County Member No.: 4,715 Reputation: 1 pts |
Updates for tonight. Everything is basically either welded or tacked. We started cutting apart the jig so we could continue on the triangulation. Also ran out of gas so the welding is put off until monday. Enjoy
*edit--damn garage lights make the pictures look like the tubes are rusted  *
This post has been edited by f1prerun: Nov 12 2005, 07:49 PM
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Nov 13 2005, 08:38 AM
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#22
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"Brotherhood of the Slap"
Group: Members Posts: 5,799 Joined: 25-March 01 From: Tucson, AZ U.S.A. Member No.: 339 Reputation: 13 pts |
Looks good.
DON~~~ |
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Nov 13 2005, 04:20 PM
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#23
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Special ops
Group: Members Posts: 293 Joined: 20-October 04 From: South County, OC. Member No.: 5,502 Reputation: 0 pts |
If you don't mind me asking how tall is that cage from base to roof? Maybe it's just the picture but that thing looks massive for a "mini"
I also found this, quite possibly the ULTIMATE mini-buggy motor. 2.6-3.0 L busa based V8, 10,500rpm, flat crank... with a turbo you could make 600hp with no problem at all. http://www.powertecracing.com/ No I haven't priced it yet, but i'm guessing $15K easy, not counting the quaife transaxle. |
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Nov 13 2005, 04:25 PM
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#24
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"Preferred Sponsor"
Group: Members Posts: 7,675 Joined: 22-January 02 From: SIN CITY, NV Member No.: 1,273 Reputation: 5 pts |
hes on the wrong side of the car...
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Nov 13 2005, 09:18 PM
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#25
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Dune Master
Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 13-April 04 From: Orange County Member No.: 4,715 Reputation: 1 pts |
QUOTE(mxblue23 @ Nov 13 2005, 04:12 PM) If you don't mind me asking how tall is that cage from base to roof? Maybe it's just the picture but that thing looks massive for a "mini" I also found this, quite possibly the ULTIMATE mini-buggy motor. 2.6-3.0 L busa based V8, 10,500rpm, flat crank... with a turbo you could make 600hp with no problem at all. http://www.powertecracing.com/ No I haven't priced it yet, but i'm guessing $15K easy, not counting the quaife transaxle. [right][snapback]1275743[/snapback][/right] As far as the height goes the jig is anywhere from 3" to 4.75" off the ground because of the slope of the garage to make everything level. Add in the 2.5" square tube and from the top of the jig to the top of the chassis is only 43" tall. I built the sides up taller than your average "mini rail" because I like to sit down in the cars, the taller the sides the more protection I've got. The motors on the site look bad a$$ but the reason for the mini rail is to not have to blow that kind of money on a motor or tranny. |
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