The motor is a fuel injected non turbo 2.3. It is running rich and idoling about 1200 rpm. The idol screw is not touching the trottle and is backed out almost all the way out. Is there a way to lean out the motor or is the ecu supost to to that. I installed a new O2 sensor and itis still running rich. Took it to Little Sahara Oklahoma this weekend and fauled 2 sets of plugs but, I still had a great tim in the sand.
Thanks
CBD

All stock it should idle around 700. I'd check that you have the MAP sensor connected properly (behind the butterfly), check that the TPS is reading properly (probe the wires and read the voltage directly), and double check the timing (both the cam and the dizzy - remember to pull the PIP when setting the timing and let the computer take it from there.)

Mine ran like that when I had the MAP sensor connected to the wrong port on the intake by mistake. I thought it was behind the butterfly but the port I picked was actually in front of the butterfly. Had to look at it from a different angle to realize it though.

It also sounds like you may have one or more sensors reading off. I'd suggest hooking a volt meter or idiot light to the computer and running the diagnostics. Quite a few pages out there with instructions on how to do this. Will tell you right off if the computer things something is wrong and may help you zero in on where the problem could be.

You may also want to check your IAC - it could be sticking open or it may just be dirty. Something is letting air in past the trottle plate if it's running that quick - and the IAC is a good place to start looking for that.

This is some good info..... But the IAC will not make it run rich, It sounds like a vacume leak to me. With the idle up & the rich cond. The vacume leak will cause the high idle, The vacume leak will also cause a rich cond as well, Sounds funny but here is why....The O2 sensor does exactly what it says it reads oxygen, if you have a vacume leak the O2 sensor see's this as too much air & not enough Fuel so the first thing it does is add fuel..... And lots of it until the O2 sensor goes full RICH, To verify this put a DVOM or lab scope on the signal return wire on the O2 sensor.... A normal functional sensor will switch from 100mv-900mv, in a waveform pattern the higher the voltage the richer it is.... Now as you look at your meter At idle what is your O2 sensor doing? Then bring the engine up to 2500 rpm and what is the meter doing now? If you have access to a smoke machine use this to locate the vacume leak, or try a little carb cleaner arround the intake & vacume hoses... If the RPM's come up while you are spraying arround the intake or hoses try & pinpoint where the leak is by a direct spray on that area..... Good luck,Hope this helps

It sounds like the hose to the map sensor is disconnected. Vacuum leak = fast idle. No vacuum to the map sensor makes the ecu think that the motor is full throttle, and puts in the proper amount of fuel for wfo instead of idle.

Cant help with the rich part but I have ran into the TPS voltage issue on many Mustangs. If you fix the rich issue and the idle is still high check the voltage at the TPS. You can push a needle through the wire (I know it's ghetto) - pretty sure it's the green wire but it's been a while since I've done this - and connect the positive terminal of your multimeter to the pin. You can usualy ground to the throttle body. IIRC you should be within .9-.95 volts. If it's not reading that (and the sensor is good) you can adjust the reading by loosening the two screws that hold it on and twisting it a little bit (it doesnt take much!).

Good luck.

Good point...I was thinking about the symptoms individually rather than as a set.

Along the same lines of why a vacuum leak can cause it to run rich you may want to look at your exhaust setup. IIRC you're running the stock manifold on the exhaust. That puts the O2 sensor very close to the exit of the manifold. If you don't have much or any pipe coming off of there then it's possible the O2 sensor is reading more O2 than it should from the surrounding air getting in. May want to check for exhaust leaks for the same reason.

I'm still leaning towards the MAP sensor not being hooked up right though.

I got the idol down. On my throttle body there is no air bypass valve. Instead there is a hose conector. So before, I ran a piece of hose to the air filter. I took the throttle body off and where that hose conector goes in the throttle body is after the throttle. So I blocked it off and was able to slow down the idol. Should that conector be hooked up to an air bypass valve some how?

Whats up with that EGR valve? Is it still functional? This can also cause your problem.... If it is partially stuck open...

Whats up with that EGR valve? Is it still functional? This can also cause your problem.... If it is partially stuck open...
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I was told that I didn't need the EGR so I capped it off. Should I still have the vacume hooked up to it

[quote name='Colesdaddy' date='Jun 4 2007, 06:13 PM' post='2317181']
Whats up with that EGR valve? Is it still functional? This can also cause your problem.... If it is partially stuck open...
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I was told that I didn't need the EGR so I capped it off. Should I still have the vacume hooked up to it
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What part did you cap off? There is manifold vacume running to the EGR valve if you didnt remove the valve or put some kind of plate between the valve & manifold..... Not saying this is the problem but you should check this....

If you remove the EGR on a 2.3 with the stock computer then you need to go all the way and remove it all - make a little block off plate to cover where it was on the intake - then rig a little setup with three resistors on the lines to the ECU so the ECU doesn't try to compensate for it not opening.

Though I seem to remember your particular motor had an EGR setup that was somewhat different from the others I've seen on 2.3's before.

That fitting going from behind the throttle to your air filter was basically a BIG vacuum leak. You should be a lot better now - but I'd still suggest either hooking the EGR up all the way - or removing it all the way.

What part did you cap off? There is manifold vacume running to the EGR valve if you didnt remove the valve or put some kind of plate between the valve & manifold..... Not saying this is the problem but you should check this....
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The tubing going from the valve to the exhaust was caped off.

How would I go about setting up the resitors?

My LS2 did the same thing. It was running so rich that the fuel was blowing past the rings and thinning the oil. If your idle is high and your oil presure is a little low smell the oil. If the oil smells like gas then thats could be your problem.