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ltldezertdave
I JUST GOT A NEW SET OF 930 Lightened Race Preped CV with Cage, AND THEY HAVE A SPOT THAT THEY BIND THIS HAPPENS IN AND OUT OF THE CAR. IF YOU SPIN THE HUB BY HAND THEN YOU CAN FEEL THE BINDING BUT IF YOU SPIN IT WITH THE MASS OF THE TIRE YOU CANT TELL UNLESS YOU PUT YOUR HAND ON THE AXLE THEN YOU CAN FEEL A SMALL CLICK. I HAVE HAD THEM APART A FEW TIMES AND MADE SURE THAT THEY ARE TOGETHER WRIGHT, SMALL TO BIG, THIN PART OF THE CAGE POINTING AT THE AXLE. IS THIS SOMTHING OTHER PEOPLE HAVE HAD HAPPEN CAN I RUN THEM WITH THIS BINDING OR IS ANY AMOUNT OF BINDING A BIG NO NO. THANKS FOR THE HELP I ANVANCE.
motsmx
personaly I don't think any bind is a good thing. I had a similar problem once . limit strap had stretched and I was running a bit to much angle . adjusted strap a little and bind went away
jess@highangle
It most likey is an area inside where the race prep did not get clearanced all the way- they take about .0008 off when they polish the races and also the cages and housing- That reduces the drag and makes things smoother- but I have a hard time thinking the bind if slight will not be a problem-Most likely the max angle will cause a problem first- Jess
seaduner
QUOTE(ltldezertdave @ Sep 8 2007, 02:15 PM) *
I JUST GOT A NEW SET OF 930 Lightened Race Preped CV with Cage, AND THEY HAVE A SPOT THAT THEY BIND THIS HAPPENS IN AND OUT OF THE CAR. IF YOU SPIN THE HUB BY HAND THEN YOU CAN FEEL THE BINDING BUT IF YOU SPIN IT WITH THE MASS OF THE TIRE YOU CANT TELL UNLESS YOU PUT YOUR HAND ON THE AXLE THEN YOU CAN FEEL A SMALL CLICK. I HAVE HAD THEM APART A FEW TIMES AND MADE SURE THAT THEY ARE TOGETHER WRIGHT, SMALL TO BIG, THIN PART OF THE CAGE POINTING AT THE AXLE. IS THIS SOMTHING OTHER PEOPLE HAVE HAD HAPPEN CAN I RUN THEM WITH THIS BINDING OR IS ANY AMOUNT OF BINDING A BIG NO NO. THANKS FOR THE HELP I ANVANCE.


Have you tried clocking the two cv's with each other? Some of the peeps say that will cure problems like yours.
ltldezertdave
GUYS THANKS FOR GTEING BACK SO SOON , I ALSO THINK IT IS NOT GOING TO BE A GOOD THING SO IM GOING TO TAKE THEM BACK.
50GRIT
My buddy just bought some 930's as well and we installed them and they seem to be binding on both sides. These are not "race prepped". Do they need to break in?? This is our first attempt at a cv install. Grooved lines are on the outside and we packed them up real good. The engine is out of the car (hayabusa) and its sitting pretty high without any weight on it giving it a pretty good angle. Dont mean to hijack, didnt want to start another cv thread. Thanks.
havasu1
QUOTE(50GRIT @ Sep 14 2007, 01:39 PM) *
My buddy just bought some 930's as well and we installed them and they seem to be binding on both sides. These are not "race prepped". Do they need to break in?? This is our first attempt at a cv install. Grooved lines are on the outside and we packed them up real good. The engine is out of the car (hayabusa) and its sitting pretty high without any weight on it giving it a pretty good angle. Dont mean to hijack, didnt want to start another cv thread. Thanks.


Binding is not a good thing nor is there a break in period that I know of dunno.gif . Check the angle of your axels. I bought a cheap angle meter...thingy.....chingus...whatever for about 14 bucks. Get one and put it on your axel and check your angle with the car jacked up and the wheels hanging down to there limit. If you have some forward or backward angle on the axel, add that in too (I had to use a cheap protractor for that one). If the angle is 24 degrees or below, you should be fine (from what I understand, horsepower plays into this too, if you have 150hp, you can probably get away with 26 degree angles, If you have 600hp, you probably want to be below 24 degree). If it goes more than 26, try limit straps to stop the execessing drop at the wheel. Finally, go to Outbacks website (www.outbackmotors.com) and go to their "news and technology" section. They have a section in there on CV and correct assembly. Use this to ensure you assembled the CV correctly (are the stars in correctly, are the cages in correctly......sounds like you have the cases in correctly. I've been working on my CV this week too. What fun beer.gif

Just my .02
GeneK
One solution is to limit rear shock droop until the clicking stops. Be sue to take into account limit strap stretch.

50Grit,
I don't know who built the 'Busa car but my personal experience with a Sick car was that the axles and CV's were overextended at full travel and clicked after only a few hours.

Solutions include buying U-joint axles from Jess, (or others) or if you want to try something new, contact RCVPerformance.com for some front wheel drive CV plunging axle half shafts. I have the latter on my car and Jess' setup has lots of good feedback. So far my setup has survived the dyno and has yet to deal with much sand.
50GRIT
Its a Sick Sand Travel. Its still at full height due the motor not being and along with all the crap that sits back there as well. I'll wait till we get some weight in there and if it still clicks we'll take em off and make sure there good. the other 930's on there prior were quiet so I assume they were nice and seated. Thanks for advice! Off to the sand show for me!
HOTRNHELL
Its a Sick Sand Travel. Its still at full height due the motor not being and along with all the crap that sits back there as well. I'll wait till we get some weight in there and if it still clicks we'll take em off and make sure there good. the other 930's on there prior were quiet so I assume they were nice and seated. Thanks for advice! Off to the sand show for me!


Might want to rethink this. If the car ever gets off the ground (inevitable) your suspension will be maxed out (full droop) again and if you have bind now with no weight you will be in the same situation. Check your angles and limit travel accordingly or pay later.
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