I have a SCU LilBro with Turnkey 550HP, 33" STU and a 2d tranny.

I drive it pretty hard and am afraid to push it because of the tranny. Should I worry?
I get out about 10 weekends a season for about 35-40 days as well as a week to somewhere and dont want to be down for long if anything happened.

What would be the logical step up for tranny?
I am in northern california so I cant just bring it by a shop and have the chassis re tabbed.

Is there anything that mounts right up in the 2d tabs? what do you think going prices are?
thoughts? advice?

thanks in advance

any advice or recommendations?

I know how you feel, btdt personally...You may not get a lot of responses, as the tranny question is a pretty personal choice. The general rule is to put in as big of a tranny as you can afford. But I think in some cases, it may not make sense.

Has it ever broke on you? Sometimes, if it's not broke, it's best not to "fix" it. Here's an example...Let's say you can get through a full season without a major failure. Seems the cost of a 2D for an "inspect and refresh" is about $500-$750, as long as you are able to do the mechanical work yourself and you don't have to replace too many hard parts. Compare that cost with the costs to upgrade to an S4..probably about $6K difference between what you could sell your newly refreshed 2D for and buying the S4, plus another $1K for misc fab costs, and then you'll still want to "inspect and refresh" the S4 on an annual basis. It'll take a long time to payback the difference..if ever. And I'm not so sure in todays economy you'd see a $7K difference in resale price either...

I have heard that the easiest move from a 2d is to the fortin, you have to change axles, but the case dimensions are pretty much the same I have heard.

I heard that the easiest swap is to an S4. Trans bolts right in, but the motor mounts have to raised because the bellhousing sits an inch or two higher. But then there is fab work needed for the shifter as it is different for the one used on normal H pattern tranny's.

Not true on the axles for a 2D to Fortin swap.
I kept my axles when I upgraded my 2D to a Fortin.
Have to change the rear tranny mounts and change the shift tube.
Nothing else changes, as long as you have 934 CVs already.
Best thing I have done to my car.

I personally would go Fortin before the S4

I heard the fortin was Wider?
I also heard you can swap to 930's on the fortin, so you don't need to go to 934's

Not true. The Fortin is actually narrower. 930s are an option

Got a 4spd wide for sale.

Have you upgraded the 2D with a nosecone from Transwerks or Funco? Also, insist on the zero tolerance main bearing when you get it rebuilt. That made a huge difference in the life of my main bearing. Also, insist on the Weddle ring and pinion if you ever have to replace it, assuming you don't have that now. The ring and pinion options have different quality. These are the weak areas of the 2D IMHO. These improvements during your next rebuild can help, assuming you haven't done these yet. But be easy on reverse, there's no improvement available for that.

If you really like to DRIVE your car and mash on the throttle, throw a 4 speed wide gear Fortin in it. Nothing is EASY, believe me. I went from a 2D to a Fortin. I guess since it was my first and only time, it was a PITA. Refab trans mounts, front and rear, new engine mounts, COMPLETELY different shifting mechanism, which is probably the most technical aspect, and so on and so forth. But knowing that I have a Fortin and it was done right, of course well worth it! Good luck. My fabricator swaps in S4's all the time and does it like clockwork.

Good luck,

Frank

I have a new never been used s4 for sale for 10,000 if intrested. I live in fresno