Ok I'm in need of some help with info.
I have an 86 TRX250R and I think it's in need of a rebuild.
It doesn't want to idea right now, but that's not why I think it's time for an overhaul. It doesn't seam like it has the compression it use to. So I'm looking for someone that does nice work that isn't going to rake me over the coals. I live in Corona and would like to have someone not to far from my area.
Can anyone be of help?
A friend on mine used to go to Fireball racing or something like that that did nice work, but I don't know anymore then that.
Thanks,
Eddie
Full Version: Rebuild Info
Trinity is close by but I wouldn't take any Honda there...I get all my work done at CT racing...
What is it you need done, has the seals and bearing ever been changed or are you just doing the top end???
What is it you need done, has the seals and bearing ever been changed or are you just doing the top end???
do it yourself. I am in Corona, and can help you out, its very simple...that is a very very simple bike to do...but, when doing the top end, you need to make sure the bottom end is still tight as well.......where in Corona you live???
Dive into it yourself! I'm in the middle of doing one right now that should have been done a couple years ago.
Just strip off your plastic, fuel tank, all that stuff. Wrap the carb up in a baggie and set aside. Pull off the radiator hoses and make sure it's empty. Take out the coolant plug on the side of the cylinder and let it drain empty.
Take the head off, then pull the cylinder off. You may have to give it a couple easy whacks with a rubber mallet to get it to loosen up from base gasket. Take the piston off. Set all that stuff aside.
Now, take the shift lever off. Then take the side cover off. Hold the connecting rod and very slowly rotate the engine with the kick starter. Everything feel smooth and easy? Good.
Hold the rod and pull up on it. Then push down. Any movement at all? Movement means big-end bearings are bad and you need to replace. At this point, if you're not into doing split cases yourself, take the engine to a shop and have it done. Have all your bearings inside replaced, and probably your shift forks too. If no movement,
grab the flywheel and try to move it up/down. Sideways movement to a point is acceptable. If it doesn't move, good! Take it to a shop and have them replace the crank seal. This is very, very, very important. Don't replace it and with your new top-end it'll leak and suck air and lean out your motor and fry your piston rather quickly.
Now, your cylinder. What I do and have never been disappointed is this; take the cylinder to Q & E in Anaheim, right off the 91 and Kraemer. Tell them you want a bore and a piston. They'll take care of it and in a week you can go and pick it up. My cylinder happened to have a cracked sleeve and needed replacing (cost of $250 for resleeve).
When you get your stuff back, take it home and put it back together.
A good idea is to get a Honda manual if you don't have one. I have a Clymers for the R.
Trust me, with just hand tools, you can put your motor back together and have it running in less than 2 hours. I've done it lots of times.
Just strip off your plastic, fuel tank, all that stuff. Wrap the carb up in a baggie and set aside. Pull off the radiator hoses and make sure it's empty. Take out the coolant plug on the side of the cylinder and let it drain empty.
Take the head off, then pull the cylinder off. You may have to give it a couple easy whacks with a rubber mallet to get it to loosen up from base gasket. Take the piston off. Set all that stuff aside.
Now, take the shift lever off. Then take the side cover off. Hold the connecting rod and very slowly rotate the engine with the kick starter. Everything feel smooth and easy? Good.
Hold the rod and pull up on it. Then push down. Any movement at all? Movement means big-end bearings are bad and you need to replace. At this point, if you're not into doing split cases yourself, take the engine to a shop and have it done. Have all your bearings inside replaced, and probably your shift forks too. If no movement,
grab the flywheel and try to move it up/down. Sideways movement to a point is acceptable. If it doesn't move, good! Take it to a shop and have them replace the crank seal. This is very, very, very important. Don't replace it and with your new top-end it'll leak and suck air and lean out your motor and fry your piston rather quickly.
Now, your cylinder. What I do and have never been disappointed is this; take the cylinder to Q & E in Anaheim, right off the 91 and Kraemer. Tell them you want a bore and a piston. They'll take care of it and in a week you can go and pick it up. My cylinder happened to have a cracked sleeve and needed replacing (cost of $250 for resleeve).
When you get your stuff back, take it home and put it back together.
A good idea is to get a Honda manual if you don't have one. I have a Clymers for the R.
Trust me, with just hand tools, you can put your motor back together and have it running in less than 2 hours. I've done it lots of times.
| QUOTE (big had @ Dec 17 2003, 07:49 AM) |
| do it yourself. I am in Corona, and can help you out, its very simple...that is a very very simple bike to do...but, when doing the top end, you need to make sure the bottom end is still tight as well.......where in Corona you live??? |
Big Had,
I would do it myself but I dan't have any place to do it. Meaning the bikes is in storage when no in use and I can't do it at home. I love working on my quad as well as other stuff just don't have the space to. I live off the 15 fwy and Onterio in Corona.
I want to have the whole engine checked out, I don't want to fix/rebuild the top and have the bottom go out after.
Later,
Eddie
| QUOTE (Mr.DUNE @ Dec 17 2003, 06:17 AM) |
| Trinity is close by but I wouldn't take any Honda there...I get all my work done at CT racing... What is it you need done, has the seals and bearing ever been changed or are you just doing the top end??? |
Mr Dune,
I have been to and bought parts from Trinity Racing before but I don't think I would have my engine done there. I heard CT as well as others are better at 250R engines. I don't what no 310 or 330 just want to freshin it up a bit and make it last.
I don't really know if it needs any work. So I thought I would have it checked out and if it needed it do it before something happens. I don't know if it's ever had a rebuild or anything like that and I have had it for 4 years but haven't put a lot of time of it.
Later,
Eddie
| QUOTE (Washroad @ Dec 17 2003, 08:25 AM) |
| Dive into it yourself! I'm in the middle of doing one right now that should have been done a couple years ago. Just strip off your plastic, fuel tank, all that stuff. Wrap the carb up in a baggie and set aside. Pull off the radiator hoses and make sure it's empty. Take out the coolant plug on the side of the cylinder and let it drain empty. Take the head off, then pull the cylinder off. You may have to give it a couple easy whacks with a rubber mallet to get it to loosen up from base gasket. Take the piston off. Set all that stuff aside. Now, take the shift lever off. Then take the side cover off. Hold the connecting rod and very slowly rotate the engine with the kick starter. Everything feel smooth and easy? Good. Hold the rod and pull up on it. Then push down. Any movement at all? Movement means big-end bearings are bad and you need to replace. At this point, if you're not into doing split cases yourself, take the engine to a shop and have it done. Have all your bearings inside replaced, and probably your shift forks too. If no movement, grab the flywheel and try to move it up/down. Sideways movement to a point is acceptable. If it doesn't move, good! Take it to a shop and have them replace the crank seal. This is very, very, very important. Don't replace it and with your new top-end it'll leak and suck air and lean out your motor and fry your piston rather quickly. Now, your cylinder. What I do and have never been disappointed is this; take the cylinder to Q & E in Anaheim, right off the 91 and Kraemer. Tell them you want a bore and a piston. They'll take care of it and in a week you can go and pick it up. My cylinder happened to have a cracked sleeve and needed replacing (cost of $250 for resleeve). When you get your stuff back, take it home and put it back together. A good idea is to get a Honda manual if you don't have one. I have a Clymers for the R. Trust me, with just hand tools, you can put your motor back together and have it running in less than 2 hours. I've done it lots of times. |
Washroad,
You make it sound easy and I'm sure it is, but like I posted just before this is I have no place to take apart my quad and leave it apart. I would like to take the whole bike and have it checked out if I could then go from there.
I had Q & E do cylinder work on my YSR's when I had them and I thought they did really nice work. And I do have a Clymers manual and it does help.
Later,
Eddie
Fireball moved up north and is now doing only suspension. However, the motor guy, Glenn, opened up his own shop in Corona called Wicked/Atomic motorsports. www.wickedatv.com has all the info you need to contact them. He built my banshee and it has run perfect for 4 years now. 
Glenn still does good work, but he takes for freaking ever(busy nowdays). If time is not the issue here, then I would take to him. Tell him Diesel sent ya.
Late
Glenn still does good work, but he takes for freaking ever(busy nowdays). If time is not the issue here, then I would take to him. Tell him Diesel sent ya.Late
Do it yourself, if you need help, I live off of Ontario and Lincoln in Corona.
86_250R_Rider,
If you keep it in storage, won't they let you work on it there?
Personally, I've had nothing but really bad experiences with Trinity and won't ever go there again, not even for a part.
If you can trust your local Honda dealer, have them check it out. I've had a lot of work done at Orange County Honda and they do great work. Ask for Steve if you call 714-971-7771.
If you keep it in storage, won't they let you work on it there?
Personally, I've had nothing but really bad experiences with Trinity and won't ever go there again, not even for a part.
If you can trust your local Honda dealer, have them check it out. I've had a lot of work done at Orange County Honda and they do great work. Ask for Steve if you call 714-971-7771.
86 250Rrider, how are your seals holding up. Do you see any oil marks around your counter sprocket or around you kick starter, if so then you need to have the seals replaced and if you go that way you should have your bearings changed as well. I just had my motor taken down and rebuilt and found out that all my bearings and seals were bad.
If you want to get in touch with CT racing call 562-945-2453 and ask for Allen. They do the best work when it comes to 250R's they are out of Santa Fe Springs...
If you want to get in touch with CT racing call 562-945-2453 and ask for Allen. They do the best work when it comes to 250R's they are out of Santa Fe Springs...
Wash, Yes I do keep it in storage and I don't see why they wouldn't let me work on it there. The main problem is my roll-away is at home. If I know the engine needs to be rebuilt then I could take out the engine and do most of the work myself or with help. I just need to see if it does or not.
I haven't had a problem with Trinity but I don't go there anymore. I also use to buy from OCH, that's where I got most of my gear and parts.
Mr Dune, I can't answer those questions. As the bike isn't in front of me right now. When I got the bike I did replace a lot of stuff. I replaced the kick starter seal,Clutch cover gasket,water pump gacket,water pump bearing oil seal,mechanicl seal and I did the clutch update kit but that it. I'm not having a problem with anything leaking or power, just with idling.
Anyone have any work done at corona honda?
Later,
Eddie
I haven't had a problem with Trinity but I don't go there anymore. I also use to buy from OCH, that's where I got most of my gear and parts.
Mr Dune, I can't answer those questions. As the bike isn't in front of me right now. When I got the bike I did replace a lot of stuff. I replaced the kick starter seal,Clutch cover gasket,water pump gacket,water pump bearing oil seal,mechanicl seal and I did the clutch update kit but that it. I'm not having a problem with anything leaking or power, just with idling.
Anyone have any work done at corona honda?
Later,
Eddie
If you have good compression and the only problem you're having is just idle, then adjust the chock knob until it idles. 
I'll agree. If you still have good compression and it just won't idle properly, try adjusting the carb. If it still doesn't seem to run quite right, try taking the carb off and giving it a good clean inside/out.
Another thing to check is to make sure all your ground wires are good "grounded" and clean.
One more little trick I've learned; gap your plug down to at least a .022. The weakest part of the R is the ignition system, reducing the gap means the spark doesn't have to jump as far so you will actually have better spark.
Good luck!
Another thing to check is to make sure all your ground wires are good "grounded" and clean.
One more little trick I've learned; gap your plug down to at least a .022. The weakest part of the R is the ignition system, reducing the gap means the spark doesn't have to jump as far so you will actually have better spark.
Good luck!
Mr Dune & Wash,
Thanks for the helpful info. I don't know what the compression is suppose to be. And I don't know what it is now.Any body know? I think I might just buy a compression tester after Christmas and check.
I will check the grounds and the gap on the plug. I read in the manual that if the idle knob has any ware i won't idle, so I think I'll check that also.
Thanks again,
Eddie
Thanks for the helpful info. I don't know what the compression is suppose to be. And I don't know what it is now.Any body know? I think I might just buy a compression tester after Christmas and check.
I will check the grounds and the gap on the plug. I read in the manual that if the idle knob has any ware i won't idle, so I think I'll check that also.
Thanks again,
Eddie
If you get a compression tester, remember each tester is going to measure somewhat different from every other tester. The thing to do is get one, check it, and then periodically check it again in the exact same way with the same tester. When you see a 10% drop in compression, time to think rebuild top-end.
Generally, if you have over 140-150 lbs you should be fine. Also consider how long the engine has been running; are you going on your 4th or 5th year? If so, your compression could be lower.
I just did a top-end on my wife's R, compression had dropped to below 100 lbs
. I waited too long. Sleeve was cracked and needed replaced. Also crank bearings were worn out; that means split-case. So, now that it's back together, a stock 246cc with stock head gasket, compression is 170 lbs. It's ready for New Years now!
Good luck!
Merry Christmas!
Generally, if you have over 140-150 lbs you should be fine. Also consider how long the engine has been running; are you going on your 4th or 5th year? If so, your compression could be lower.
I just did a top-end on my wife's R, compression had dropped to below 100 lbs
. I waited too long. Sleeve was cracked and needed replaced. Also crank bearings were worn out; that means split-case. So, now that it's back together, a stock 246cc with stock head gasket, compression is 170 lbs. It's ready for New Years now!Good luck!
Merry Christmas!
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