I had an air leak somewhere and it blew a hole in the top of 1 of my pistons... It has some fine granuals of the piston in with the crank. So... I figure instead of just fixing the top end and hopeing nothing on the bottom side gets ruined by those pieces in there I would just split the case and do it rite...

I don't want to do more work than I have to... I have the service manual, but it doesn't make a great deal of sence to remove all of the stuff it tells you to when you are not taking everything out of the case (going to leave the trans in) and just pull the crank out, clean everything, replace the oil seals and put it back together.

I'm looking for someone to tell me what actually has to be removed...

It's not the work, it's the "I can EFF something up" factor that has stopped me so far. I would hate to kill something internally just because I have doubt. I rebuilt my first top end at age 11, it was so simple.. I have done clutches, again no problem.. but Im worried about all the kick gears, the shift star, and small little pieces that the manual says need to be removed when splitting the case.

What do you think ? Is this all in my head... Is this a way easier process than I'm making it out to be ?

So tell me, what actually has to be removed ?

It's been a couple years but I'm pretty sure you have to split the whole thing to get to the crank. It's not that big of a deal if you have the book and tools needed ( you'll need a flywheel puller ) good luck

The whole thing has to be split ofcourse... but if I'm not removeing the trans, do I have to remove all of the shifter parts, like the star, push rod, kicker gears, etc... ?

No but I would to clean everything, you got sand in there?

no sand, it was a new motor... I just developed a leak somewhere and it leaned out one of the cylinders real bad and blew a hole threw it.. I just need to get the piston dust out of there so it doesn't mess anything up ya know..

The trans is sealed off from the crank, there is no way anything has gotten in there but it will be cleaned still.. I'm just looking for the easiest way to split the case without taking all the little shit off of it... It doesn't make a great deal of sence to me that you have to take all of the tranny pieces off of the case when the trans is staying in.

It's no big deal on removing the parts though...
You'll need the puller for that wheel.. behind it you'll find the stator and stator plate. [It would be a good mod to replace that stator plate with an adjustable one and set it to +4 Degrees.]
On the other side remove the complete clutch basket.. The pressure plate has markings to match the basket so it's easy to set it back in there. [At that point it would be a good time to upgrade that old clutch pusher with a pancake style pusher.]
After removing the basket a screw removes the Shift Star. One screw holds it in. Set the gear in neutral & reinstall it in neutral position. [Another good idea is to shave down that Shift Star for smoother shifting, a bench grinder would work perfect.] The push rod just slides out the top! You can call me if you need help!

I don't see why the tranny gears have to be touched.. Just split motor, don't touch anything internally beside removing the crank.

I sure hope you are right... I'm just a lil scared about getting started.. I was the same way when I snapped the axle in my rail, but once I got started it was cake. I know it will be the same way but there is always that initial boubt ya know ?

Allright... going to get a flywheel puller, be back shortly. Hope you guys have some more insight into this subject...

You'll be fine bro.. Everything is just slapped on these motors.
Remember the teardown & and reverse the process to reasemble!
The Banshee Clymer Manual is also a better manual over the Yamaha Service Manual.

I got the manual from the dealership my chick works at, it's the one that the mechanics use.

But yeah, Clymers has alot more pics.

Probably a little late but you will need a 32mm socket to remove the clutch basket. You should also go buy a new large tip phillips head screw driver or impact driver to remove the plate that is mounted behind the clutch basket. That is pretty much the extent of special tools you need. Take your time and clean up all the case sealant between the two case halves while they are apart and get some fresh sealant to reassemble. Before putting the clutch cover back on double check your shift shaft is centered between the concentric shaft that the return springs ride on. Oh one other thing check the clutch throw out rod and ball to be sure the rod isn't damaged from holding in the clutch and reving the engine. The banshee is very easy to work on and no special pullers are required to seperate the two case halves. The gear clusters stay together and will typically stay in the bottom case half when seperated. If you need help let me know.

Ii's easy no problems I have split the cases and left the jugs on. Did it on a thirsday night and left for the dunes fri morning. Like I said in the other post there is a little bracket that goes from the top case to the bottom case behind the clutch basket. As far as the trans just turn the engine over so the rods are facing down and remove the botom piece trans will stay put. And to Quote the guy who showed me how to work on this stuff "It only goes back together one way and works"

I felt the same way the first time I split the case on my banshee. I can't think of anything else that has to be removed to split the case, and like was posted above, once you split the case, just don't mess with the transmission side. Mine has been back together for about 4 years now without a problem. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

And what are you guys using to seal the cases? Last I asked for Yamabond it didn't exist anymore..

You can buy Yamabond 5 from Rocky Mountain ATV. Do not buy yamabond 6b or 6? as it's a silicon sealant not case sealer.

Like what has been said, its actually not that diffucult. Good thing about the banshe engine is the case split top to bottom as other older 2strokes split from side to side thats where it gets difficult

I used 1211 sealer by 3 bond. It is in a white tube and I'm guessing that most cycle shops would carry it.

It's cummin along good so far...