I just got tierd of going slow in the desert. so far with the parts sold from the old long travel,730 stroker,front diff,and bench seat i am still money ahead on this build. I am using 2005 r1 motor, (900.00) king sand car diff( 1300.00) fuel cell(230.00) 2.5 king shocks 8" ( big bucks) heims ,uni balls, and bushings (450.00) assorted tubing (300.00) fuel pump(120.00) I'm using old axels from my first funco and had some 930 cv's laying around in the shop. I'm sure that I wll still need to spend some money ,but hopefully this will come out close to a push. I hope to have it going by the end of june. Crip keneviel and I busted most of this out this weekend.

looking good keep the pic's coming


any chance you have run across that insert for the 90 exhaust when you are out in the shop ? we tried to buy a new one and you have to buy the whole pipe to get it please let me know if you come across it thanks

looks good so far, how wide?

Should be 80" to the outside of the rear tires. about 8" wider than a long travel rhino.

I might cut down the rear axles to get it around 76" wide.

Ive been looking at the K-Drive set up from king, any thoughts of it as compared to the Jeffco or RPM box other than the lack of reverse?

PROJECTOMUNDO

I looked at the rpm box but cost on that sucker is 2,200. thats a 1,000 bucks more than the k-drive to back out of my garage. The only down fall to the king set up is that it will not fit in the stock rhino rear frame section. (too wide). If I was not on a budget I would go with the jeffco. open diff would be fun with some turn brakes.

made some mock up rear arms this weekend. and finished the mounts. I'll be trying to get shocks located tonight.

We have been going around in the same circle. We want a set-up that is fairly straightforward so the K-drive is out as we dont want to go to trailing arms.. we decided on the Jeffco and should have the unit here shortly.

Build looks nice, keep us posted!

Funco what rear setup are you doing? Arms in the stock location? are you having to build the spindle taller or what? What cvs are you going to use?

Trailing arms I believe. Thats the only way to clear the sprocket on the K-Drive system...

Transworks would be a good set-up for a shaft driven motor, but I have heard of some issues with the unit.

Stay away from Transworks !!!! This build looks great so far. Keep the pics coming.

it has rear a arms. I had some new chanel mounts stamped out of some 3/16" just like the stock a-arm mounts just beefer. 930c.v's. Stock rear spindles. All mounts remain stock (vertically) Just wider. these are some mock up arms I made real quick. But you get the idea.

Looks good. So your just widening the frame to clear the sprocket then? Looks like a good way to save 2K on the Jeffco!

What are using for outer stubs with the 930's?

I took some rhino stubs and had them machined down, then bought some 930 trans flanges,and machined them down, tig welded the two together and instant rhino/930 stub. I put up some pics tonight.

Thats all the pics you got little baby?

I have a few for ya too

a couple more pics. It cycles 14' of travel. I'm still scratching mt head on the upper shock mount. I needs to be in the current location. My masking tape is kinda what Im thinking out of some 1" 1/2 on top and the bottom brace 1" 1/4 I need to sleep on it

looking for a progress report biatch

rear end almost done.. going to add a cross bar to shock towers to tie them together.

It's real close to getting done. needs clutch pedal and finish wiring...but it will have to wait. going to park moabi this weekend to drink myshelf into a coma.

holyI eat poo is this thing fst..I think I need to re-gear this sucker

Where are the new picture's ??? we want to see

X2

get jj to take the friggin pictures, she's better at it, and will do them so they'll get posted. did you get the dash electrical straightened out?

Got the limit straps on last night. Still needs aluminum work done.. I can't get the m.f'n brakes to bleed. I found a vacum bleeder that I will try tonight. And get a few picks. but every thing looks about the same. Still throwing a fuel light code so that is also on the fix list. I bet this bitch runs 65+ in first gear. Best I can figure is around a 4to1 final drive. I need to see If I can find a 14 tooth front sprocket for a 530 chain.. anyone got one?

HAAHA that shiz is gay nagga!!! it don't run foo poot it on a trailer and drove down the road!!! Rhino's are gayness holmes!!!

Dude Why would MAXXRHINO say rhinos are gayness... You need to change your screen name to maxxsandcar with desert tires

I need to see If I can find a 14 tooth front sprocket for a 530 chain.. anyone got one?
[/quote]


jon@cut.net email this guy he will have everything you need . I get my 13 tooth sprockets from him

Coming from "Mr. Rhino" herself? Go back in yer cave lop

Well I put over a 100 miles on her this wekend. A few beers,some jeger and redbulls, no problems. The clutch is slipping a little on the pavement when it hits around 9k. we had a 72mph run and it still had some left. it was right when the clutch would slip so my guess is it had about 20-30 mph left but 70 was plenty fast. Need to get the shocks dialed in . Got some softer srings comming to get the ride hight down a little then we can start on the valving.

seriously idiot, get some pics. Guess ill have to take some this weekend.

Wow's the idiot now??? Looks like you still didn't get pic's. Maybe I will try to bring you some stuff to paint and bring my camera with me to take some pics. (I'll be sure not to forget it this time)

x2x2

what are you using for a radiator?

Turning brakes will still work. My first car had a Hewland transaxle and I put on the turning brake to see if it would work anyway. If you hit the turning brake for just for a short burst then hit the gas it worked great. I haven't figured out why you guys use a Rhino to start, just sell the Rhino and build it fom scratch. You don't end up using anything from the Rhino but part of the frame which is the weakest link.
DON~~~

Please explain how a turn brake can work on a live axle..

IMO, they will only work like a Handbrake turn. They will upset the car, but no longer function like a "turning" brake. Rally cars use hydraulic handbrakes for this purpose, but they work both rear brakes at once.

here's a video of f4l's r1. not the greatest video. the camera man (me) held the camera as steady as i could. camera mounted on helmet or rollbar would have been better, oh well. the ride was way better than it looked. rough desert road.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XOJ-nWGCAs

The YouTube video is set to "Private" ???? No can see

crap. i'll get it fixed. sorry don't know how it went to private. thanks

got it fixed now.

looks slow. driver must b a pu_ _ y

blame it on the camearman

That thing looks stupid with all those lights on the front bumper. What do you think it is a trophy truck? Just because they put all their lights down low so they can actually see you think that is a good idea??? No put them as high as possible so you cant see but they look cool duh stupid!!!

THAT THING IS AWESOME! Its a beautiful work of art... now all you need is to turbo that baby!

http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index....howtopic=203646

Those lights are JUNK thats why Procomp blew them out!!! Plut they are way to small!!! His are the KC 8" they work great and mounted down low you can actually see with them at night. Why do you think the TT and C1 cars run most down low in Baja etc the light bars look good up top but work good down low!!! The cut the dust rather then just Reflect!!!

you must use your car around bullhead sounds alot like something a bullheadian would say LOL