i want to remove or at least disconnect both sensors on the carb but i cant find any place that has a description of what i need to do.

hoping that this could be the problem of my bike not wanting idle with out holding the throttle open about 25%

i just got done checking the valves and they are all right on spec.

right now im cleaning the carb out again as i haven't messed with it since T-day


thanks

danno

if you remove TORS, it will change the ignition curve or something to that matter. I read it on YFZ central. not wanting to idle, is definitly carb related. your idle circuit is plugged or gummed up. cause 25% throttle is the pilot circuit. make sure your seals are good. what about the gas your running.... clean it, then clean it again!

yea just cleaned out the idle circuit with TB cleaner and blew threw it and still i have to hold the gas up and idle screw will quit adj. and go out of the switch before it will open it up enough to keep it running.

but i have effed with the tors switch. any idea how to set it back up?

Are you talking about the TPS....... that traces all the way down to the left side of the carb? Or the switch inside the thumb throttle housing?

What is a Tors switch? Have you checked for a vacuum leak?

the tps, the other switch is blocked off from when i put on the twist throttle.

when it cools back down and after i eat ill pull the carb off again and tear it apart and see if i cant find something pluged but as of right now i could blow threw everything with air for the idle circuit.

i guess if i dont find anything and put it together again might be time to take it out and toast some marshmallows.

I think the job of the tors switch is to prevent a runaway quad incase of a stuck throttle. If I remember correctly, if you just disconnect the throtle switch, that makes the tors not work any longer...... Actually it screws it up if you disconnect the throttle swith, when you swith to a twist throttle, you have to keep the switch engaged on the bike....
I would find the plug where it is supposed to go into the throttle and short out the connector with a single piece of wire and see if it helps?

OK, Im with you now.....

So how did you "eff" with it then? Did you back all 4 of those safety torx bits out and dork with TPS unit with a flat screw driver or something?

If you didnt even take that cover off, then you havent done anything that couldve negatively affected the TPS sender.

Im thinking it is something else, but lets hear what you did that might make you think it is the TPS.

***EDIT
How is your jetting, fuel screw and needle setup?

Sounds like a carb problem to me, have you checked to make sure your gas cap vent isn't clogged?

i have had the carb off and apart several times now. yes i took off the tps and have had the tamper proof screws off to remove the plate because before to try to get it to idle i turned it so much that it unthreaded the other switch that sets the idle.

im thinking it has to be something inside the carb. before i had trouble i drained the gas out of the tank and then let it run out of gas from the carb. it was going to be sitting so wanted all gas out of it.

i have even attempted to just fill the carb bowl with tb cleaner and rev it up and block off the carb so it would try to brake up what ever is plugging up the idle circuit. ( ie let off gas and block off carb with hand to use engine vac. ) but still cant clean it out.

i will take it all apart again soon and see if for some reason i can find whats blocked as i do think it has to be carb related also.

or if anyone has gram crackers and chocolate i will have the marshmallows tomorrow.

ohh few screw is 2.5 turns 175 jet 48 pilot and 5th clip on needle. stock needle but has 6 slots.

have been trying even with out gas tank on the carb.

Im thinking something went south on that idle set screw you were messing with man. Seems like youve cleaned it out enough that none of the jetting circuits could be clogged.

Watch that idle set screw closely with the TPS cover off. It should be pushing on a lever (TPS side) that is threaded onto the throttle shaft. Likewise that should be lifting the slide open in tiny increments the more you turn the knob in. When the motor is running that is what allows it to idle. Of course......the right jetting setup too but youre good there i think.

From 04-05 YFZ manual

POOR IDLE SPEED PERFORMANCE
POOR IDLE SPEED PERFORMANCE
Carburetor
• Improperly returned choke
• Loose or clogged pilot jet
• Loose or clogged pilot air jet
• Improperly adjusted idle speed
(throttle stop screw)
• Improper throttle cable play
• Flooded carburetor
Intake manifold
• Loosen carburetor joint
Electrical system
• Faulty battery
• Faulty C.D.I. unit
• Faulty pickup coil
• Faulty ignition coil
Valve train
• Improperly adjusted valve clearance
Air filter
• Clogged air filter element
• Loosen air filter joint

ok when i get it running still have to hold the gas open at least 25% to keep it running and engine is not going that fast but i can feel air being pushed out of the carb. i have one intake valve that is snug at .004" think thats too tight and what is not causing it hard to start and wont idle?

.10mm to .15mm or .0039 or .0059 so your right there. exhaust is...007 to .009 or .20mm or .25mm
your within spec. you have something going on with your carb. do you have a repair manual on the computer? if not I can burn a copy and send it to you. I actually downloaded it from here with one of bugsy's links.

yea thats the same manual i used.

found one problem and makes no since at all

I would pull out the needle and see if it didnt get bent or something? that could cause a problem simiar to what your having.

so with feeling the air blow out the carb i go ahead and put it at top dead center hook the old blow gun and force air in the cyl. coming out the carb im like what the hell.

so pull off the valve cover and go to check the valves again, turns out i was 180 off lol so put it at top dead center for real this time and all intakes are perfect at .004", but one exhaust this time had no clearance so i pull the cam off and find this.

your missing a tapped and shim what the... looks like the valve keeper is about to fall out or is that oil?

so now im thinking this should be easy. hunt threw all my tools at home and no brake spring tool ( the springs are very easy to compress and no its not broke i took it out). but the best thing i could find was a 13mm open end wrench. worked good, pushed the spring down and got the keeper out but then the other keeper thought it would grow wings and pop out. and we all know where it went . i cant see it but will bring home a smaller magnet tomorrow night and see what happens.

funny thing that makes no since is last time it ran fine with no problems. let it sit for 3 or so months and this happened.

so im not sure if maybe just got some tarnish on the valve stem and popped the keeper out or what.

lol no the tapped and shim were there i removed them. but thats what i found under the tapped.

yep run away keeper.

hmm. too tight on the exhaust or what? suprised didnt do more damage.

i dont know the head has never been worked on or the valves. all OE

FYI, the TORS is a throttle override switch, it compares the throttle position on the carb to the one on the thumb. If they are not the same it kills the engine. The way to dissconnect it is to unplug it, and jump it together.
As for the TPS, you can do the same with this, and it will always run the WOT timing map.

thats what I ment