The last time I went to Glamis for Thanksgiving I didn't have my rhino/truggy http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index....howtopic=114596 and everybody in camp had a really nice quad. I was pretty bummed out since I already own a Banshee but it was also sitting at home in the garage broken. I got a wild hair up my a** and decided to tear my bike all the way down and make it look respectful.
So .....Once again I'm going to do a short little build thread on this Banshee.

I'm not to good with quads so bare with me and PLEASE give me comments and suggestions. Thanks

The bike:
1998 banshee (owned for 4 seasons)
Dyno'd @ 83 Hp
Extended suspension w/Works shocks

The start of the tear down

put the stock swingarm back on. wheelies are the only reason to ride quads

Get rid of the boost bottle! It doesn't do anything but crack your intake boots.

cool what's your color set up gonna be?

I'd put some of those exhaust pipe wraps that cascade sells, so you won't melt your air filter covers.

Cant' wait to see it done man, I love builds, especially when its someone elses money!!!!!!

I'll look into that exhaust wrap by Cascade. I've already got a lot of cascade bolt on parts..Nice stuff!

With 83 hp I can't keep this thing to stop wheeling.

Funny, When I bought the bike it didn't have the Boost bottle so I bought one....pretty much worthless!

83 on stock cylinders and Toomies, not bad not bad. You know who built the motor by chance?

Have fun with the build, and go over the budget, thats even more fun.

Why would you be bummed out with 83hp?? And it looks good as is.
I say it needs some powdercoating and polishing.. Those graphics would look even sicker on a black frame!

Here we go again what are you going to turn this into helicopter, Train, boat???? J/K good luck with the build...

The porting was done by "SRP" down in San Diego and they went extreme with it. I blew the motor up and had Trinity rebuild it 2 seasons ago. Since then I've maybe put 4 hrs on it. I just never rode it since I had my rhino. I had Trinity run it on there Dyno and it pulled 83hp. I can post up the Dyno sheets if you want. Seriously not bragging but This bike is Fast. I can beat my buddy up olds on his built 450 2 wheeler.

How do I remove the springs off of my Works shocks ??? Do I really need to take them to a shop to compress the springs?






Also how about the rear shock? Is this a stock banshee shock?

ALso how do you get the bearing out of the lower steering stem "Frame" part? I removed the Upper and lower seals but what about the bearing?

Well, I kept hitting it with a screwdriver and hammer and sure enough it spun loose....ALL OUT.
Still got the shock issue though.

Brett,

You asked for comments/suggestions so..... You need to seek professional help, you have a sickness. I mean really, do you have to tear everything apart? Looks like you are well on your way, Keep the pics coming

BTW: I was checking out your rhino at the SSSS, looks good, there is a ton of work in that thing and it shows

Kevin

Yup the rear is the stock. And to get them springs off the works shocks you need a spring compressor.

Thanks Kevin !! I'm glad you took the time to come over and look at my Rhino. It really is amazing how long custom fabrication takes and I really appreciate you noticing!

As far as tearing everything apart.......I know I have a problem. my neighbor always comes by when ever he See's my garage open and gives me crap about the projrects I do and the money pits they turn out to be.
I'm going to redo this bike on a budget though. The goal is to spend less then $1200. and have it completed in 2 and a half weeks.

worked on it again today after work. It is now completly torn down and ready for powdercoat. Gonna drop it off tomorrow. My goal is to have this back together before NewYears.

here's some more pics.




Couldn't wait to take them to a shop with a spring compressor, I'm on a schedule!....
3 screw drivers and almost a finger or two!



The parts.....

your well on your way my man,

i saw a totally sick bike the other day, it had a powder candy green frame, the top of the plastic was stock black, but the underside was painted the same candy green as the frame. I just looks so crazy, I thought I was seeing things,

so what's your colors, or are you telling yet?

Looks good. Keep the progress pics coming.

See that chrome top collar on your front shocks? Pull it down and you will see the C-clip in there. Take that out and its way easier to get the bottom retainer off. That top collar is how you adjust the preload on those shocks.

\Good to know. Thanks!
What pressure should these shocks be set at ?

Also has anybody ever powder coated there rear axle ? Can this be done? Do they just tape off the area's where there's splines and where the bearings ride on?


Has anybody done the DC electrical conversion on the banshee ? I know it will require a battery to be mounted on the frame. I was just thinking that now is the time to weld in a small battery tray before powder coating happens. Where do I buy a battery tray at and what size battery to go with?

I've had the DC conversion on my Banshee for probably 6 years now. I put HID's in my Hella 500 lights back when the HID kits were like $500 This was before all the rails even joined the
Now days everyone has them and you buy the kits off ebay or sponsors of the board for less than $100.

I mounted my battery in a box I bent up out of sheet metal and a couple short pieces of angle iron that mounts to the tabs the airbox used to bolt to. I use a small 4.5 amp hour battery from Trailtech.

Do you have a high output stator and a rectifier/regulator yet? The stator will need to be modified to float the ground. If you need help let me know.

How happy were you with that small battery ? I was thinking of using the "YTX5L-BS" but Trail logic recommends there small Litium battery pack that mounts in a bag??? Just not sure that would last all night of dunning. Wht do you think ?
I have been reading up on the DC conversion and I still have to buy the stator and float the ground. I just might hit you up when I do it. Thanks.

I've been using the same battery for the whole time. It is getting a little weak now and I will probably replace it soon. The battery is just a simple AGM 12 volt battery like the ones from hobby shops used to start model airplane motors. They are pretty cheap from battery supply websites.

If you need a high output stator and flywheel I have one in the ATV parts for sale section... I'll float the ground on it for you.

I would not use lithium batteries because there is no protection from over charge. The way my system is setup is it charges the battery anytime the bike is running. During the day it charges the battery fully. Then at night if the rpms drop off or I'm putting around the lights will draw any extra current it needs from the battery. If you still want to run halogen lights the system is still worth it because the lights don't dim when you slow down or stall the motor.

Had to make myself a tool in order to remove that bearing retainer..
Yamaha called for a speacialty tool, Climb called for Lowes.. An upside down 30mm bolt and two nuts did the job.





One of my boys got that axle PC'd by V&L Powdercoating and it's holding up, he'll do as you mentioned.. tape off the splines.
Why not polish it along with other parts? Check out my polished stuff >> Polished Rims, Lights, Pipes & Shocks too!!

I did the DC conversion on my banshee using the stock stator and a Yusa battery model number YTX5-BS. I'm also using the trail tech SCMR16 HID's. I have never had a problem with my set up. Here is the instructions on how to do the stator conversion. DC Conversion link

And here is how you wire it all up.

^^ Thank you!! I have a spare set of electricals, might try this conversion!

Not a problem. Its real easy to do. If your gonna run a after market stator do not use Ricky Stator I have seen way to many fail. My buddy had one on his banshee and it would not run. So I floated the ground for him on his stock stator and now his bike rips. If you guys want I can float the stock stator for you guys for a fair price just let me know if your interested.

How would the stock stator keep up with all the output of the new lights ??? This is the system I'm thinking of running http://www.dunereview.com/electricalupgrade-1.htm

The stock stator does fine. Most of the draw for the HIDs is at start up that's what the battery is for. I'm not go tell you what to do but from my experience the Ricky Stators are junk now that all his stuff is built over seas. I have been running my setup for two seasons now and never had a dead battery. My buddy is running the Baja Design 4" HID fuego's with the stock stator with out a problem.

Great info guys !! Thanks. And man those parts you polished came out insaine !!! I just don't have the time to sit and polish plus after a couple of trips there going to be right back to the dull look if you don't keep polishing them..Which I won't stay on top of.
I just might stay with the stock Stator first....what could it hurt, right?



I got the rims removed out of the tires today after work. Gonna drop it off at the PC tomorrow.

Got some new parts in the mail this morning. Still waiting for a grip more to roll in. The Powder coating should be done early next week then it's assembly time.




bought some used front brake lines off eBay for $35.00 with the billet clamps. Just got to clean them up before I install them.

man clean bike and build... I should do this over the summer

There's a bunch of peeps on BansheeHQ who've also had issues with the Ricky Stator stuff. I did this conversion a couple years ago when I did the top end. After breaking it in I noticed it didn't seem to run right on the top end but didn't really pay attention to it. After a while it got proressively worse. I thought it was something to do with the install. I adjusted the pickup gap because it was a little too wide, pulled the carbs to make sure they were clean. I went out last year the Saturday after T-day to try it out. It ran terrible, wouldn't get out it's own way past any decent RPM. When trying to get any speed up, it sputters real bad.

It's unfortunately sat since then as I had another project which was more imprtant. I've talked to Ricky Sttor a couple times and they say to send it in and they'll fix it even though I bought the set-up a while ago.

I'm going to put the stock electrical back on and try it. I may just float the ground on the stock stator and run it since Banshee2001 is having good luck.

its not just the banshee guys, the suzuki guys have had their fair share of issues also. Ricky Stator is junk, plain and simple. I had one that lasted 2 days, and went to hell. I bought a brand new oem one for my zilla, and has run flawless since. Those things are just junk, and the sad thing is they used to be really good.
On the quadzilla stators, his castings were way off, and the flywheel would eat into the stator ring, and then into the lighting coils.
The set up these guys described is the way to go, there are a few die hard nite riders that have used a very similar setup, but they used an lt80 rectifier, with great results also.

good luck, but have patience!!

Skip the time and cost battery mod and HIDs. Get some Trail Techs and use the time and cash elsewhere. 35w TTs will be a huge improvement over those stockers.

Ditch the sticker kit and get a new seat cover. Personally, I would lose that grill!

Sending back #7 and #8 stator and flywheel #3 to ricky this week I am so sick of this crap. First stator lasted 4 seasons.. now lucky if i get 2 days out of them till the solder melts or the flywheel arcs and pits my crankshaft.

Not to high jack the thread, but Banshee2001 your avitar is killing me

Please continue with the build thread. I can't wait to see it done.

As soon as I have the money I'll be getting shocks for my build.

Well this isn't the news I want to hear.
Should I just add a battery and float the stator ground?

That's what I would do. It really isn't that much work to do.

Yes. Buy the battery and float the ground on the stock stator. And ditch the stock voltage regulator and put a new trail tech regulator/rectifier in its place and wire it up like the diagram I posted and you will be good to go. Here is a link to the regulator/rectifier

What battery should I go with? The one Trail tech offers?

Yusa battery model number YTX5-BS. And see this PAGE on how to mount it.

My buddy built an aluminum box for my battery and I mounted it out back in place of the radiator overflow. I just had to carefully cut the plastic out so it would slide in. Then I used real small screws to mount it in. For now I'm using 1/4" wide wire ties to hold it in. I'm going to make a tie down out of aluminum strap eventually.

Just got back from the powder coater. Everything looks amazing!! I went to the same guys that did my rhino rims and once again they did a unbelievable job and a SMOKEN price!! There in Corona and there name is R&R POWDER COATING.

Here's a few more pics of some parts that came in yesterday and today.
New rear brake pads
New Renthal Sprockets - Front and Rear
New Blue Silicone Radiator Hoses
All new OEM Nuts and Bolts Kit





Changed my mind the last night before I dropped everything off for PC. Went with a Candy Blue and Flat black instead of White and Black. I guess it'ss match my rhino














Sorry but the grills staying

I've been watching this thread. I like what you are doing. Thanks for posting the pic's and details. She looks to become a stunner.

looking good!

Powder Coating springs is a great way to change the spring rate. The suspension will probaly be a little off now.

I don't know man. I had two 35w and two 55w on my Banshee and they don't even come close to the two 35w HID's I use on my handlebars.

worked on the bike some more after work today. Mostly cleaning parts but I did get some stuff done.
Got the tires mounted onto rims and added some billet aluminum PC Black Valve stems.




assembled the rear brake and added new brake pads






put together the new Anadized Blue Tie rods



assembled the front A-Arms




Installed all new sealed bearings and seals in the front hubs



put together the front rotors, spindles, and hubs