are there any basics to start with???

the two down tubes are compression and the up is re bound??

turning the screw in on the rebound does what?

same with the compression....

why 2 compression... is one initial?

first what is the valving, you need to move up the bump stop rubber and tell what the valving is it is marked under the rubber stop.

Pound Sand he's a Board member send him a PM Ed is the man.

From what I have seen most people start off with too much rebound (need to turn the screw in). Often times it causes people to pogo. Just be careful not to turn it in too much or it may not allow your wheels to drop back down fast enough to make contact through the whoops. Obviously there is alot more to it, these are just a few of my observations from tuning my car over the last few years. I'm no professional but prefer to do it myself.

Turning the screw in on rebound slows down the wheel on the way out, to help stop the rear from doing the pogo.
2 compressions, the long tube is usually for the intitial and softer middle part of the ride, the short tube is for closer to bottoming, before it going into full valving.

Think of it this way, they are "bypass" shocks. The oil is "bypassing" through the tubes, you either open 'em for quicker action or close them to restrict the action. Of course the valving needs to be close, but play with it, see how it acts.

Thanks guys,, I'm gonna give it a try....

I'm gonna record any changes so I can go back to start if need

the noise that sounds like you blew a tire... the bypass ???

This thread has lots of helpful information.

Make your adjustments 1/2 to one turn at a time. Before you start, count the threads showing on each adjuster and record it, just in case you get all out of whack, you can go back to your original starting point. The screw is a needle and seat. Visualize this as you are making your adjustments, and common sense will get you where you want to go.

I'd make the initial few adjustments about 3 turns so you can feel what it did and then go from there. Always keep note of your starting point. Take a measurement with a tape or calipers vice counting threads; that would make me googly eyed

I often have a black marker with me, and I will make notes on the body like +3 or - 3. I usually make adjustments 3 turns at a time to start. Usually this will cause enough change so you get immediate feed back. You can then "feel" that you are either going the right way or not. Then as you get close, make smaller adjustments. If you get to the point where you have the tubes almost closed, or full open, and you have not achieved what you want then it's time to think about valving. Don't forget about using all the adjustments available on the springs. There's a lot to do to get the car set up well. It's not an exact science and takes time and patience. H