So I fianlly got mine started to do the break in but had a tough time getting it to run normal and it was just popping and backfiring the entire time. So either I rejet it, but dont know what I have in it now (maybe 150/55) or take it to someone who can do it for me. My engine is a 2276cc, running dual 44 Weber IDFs, 9.5:1 comp, Im at 3000 ft elevation. Or if you guys have a shop you recommend to tune it. I would like it dyno tuned also.

At sea level- Main 155 Air 200 Idle 55-60 Emulsion F11 This should be close.

As you hold the carb top upside down the float should be level.

A common problem is the idle jets getting plugged. Pull them out and make sure they are clear.

Right on, also...how do i sync them?

You need to buy a flow gauge. Undo linkage, set base idle as you are using the flow gauge, get the flow even on both carbs. Hook up the linkage and adjust it so it pulls both carbs evenly, be sure to use the gas pedal and not grab the linkage by hand as you are adjusting. Then hold the RPM at 2000 and check it with the flow gauge. Turn the engine off and push the throttle to the floor and make sure you have full throttle with out over pulling the carb linkage.

Thanks bro...simple enough.

Also check that the linkage going to each carb are opening at the same rate. Sometimes they get off when the linkage is installed and the butterflies in the carbs are at different postions. This can cause the missing also.

Also to get your tune close make sure the Air Bypass screws are seated. These are small screws next to the Idle mixture screws which have jam nuts on them.

You want to set all Idle mixture screws to 1 full turn out from seated as a starter. And the Idle speed screws a half turn in after they just touch the butterfly lever. Fire it up and let it warm up. Now go to each Idle mixture screw and turn them in 1/4 turn until the engine starts to run rough. At this point start to turn them out 1/4 turn until you find the highest RPM. Keep doing this until you reach a point where turning the mixture screws out does not cause RPM's to increase. Now turn them back in 1/8 turn at a time until you reach that highest RPM.

Now you use the syncronizing tool. There are a couple different styles. Fo these carbs, I like to use the one that sort of looks like a snail shell: http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AC000124.html.

You use this to sync both carbs to get the smoothest idle. You do not need to make very drastic adjustments here. The speed screws should not be turned in more than a 1/2 turn.

Once this is done, attach the linkage and check everything as the rest here have said. I have seen some cross bars push on one carb before the other, so I've had to basically add a little "preload" to the slower moving side to they throttle pull is even.

If you have to turn the Idle mixture screws out more than a turn and a half to get it to idle properly, go up a size on the Idle jet. If less than a half turn out, then go down a size.

And as virginsand said, make sure all your jets are clear of any junk. And definitely check the float level. If you do pull the carb top off ot check the float level and these carbs are used, check the fuel bowl to make sure you don't have any sand or junk there. If you find anything, clean it out.

I use 44s on my motor jetting is 200air,150 main,60 idles,floats at 10.5mm fuel pressure at 3.5psi.

As for sync similar to virgin sand i set up carbs to idle and check flow with a snail thingy then slightly adjust linkage so it goes on evenly then fire up and recheck air flow.Once i got this done i fine tune mixture screws to smoothest idle then add a 1/4 more turn out.

Thanks for all of the tips guys. Gonna place the order for some jets.

Also things to check would be valve adjustment,engine timing,and if the carbs are used you should check to make sure the throttle shafts dont move up and down in the carb. If they do than they will suck air when running and make it pop.

Something I forgot to mention is whatever tune you finish with at 3000 ft probably will not work well at sea level (Glamis). This is where EFI is superior, it will compensate for this change.

Also Big Daddy and Charger hit on some other things which are important to look at.

Not tech savvy but if u want shop

Brothers machine shop Ontario Ca they have a web site too

Not tech savvy but if u want shop

Brothers machine shop Ontario Ca they have a web site too

A warm day at glamis air density will not be near seas level anyways.I have taken my buggy to rasor rd on 100 deg days and i think elevation ranges from 800 ft to 1200 where we go to and never had any probs.I also use the same jetting at glamis in the winter time.Yes you do lose a lil performance but if it is tuned good you should not not suffer excessive rich or lean conditions.

IMO alot of this altitude stuff is overblown.

what venturi size for this set up?

anyone recommend a good vw shop with a chasis dyno in orange county or the inland empire area

Theres no need for a dyno. Just call fibertech in santee,ca and tell them what size motor and carburetors your running. They will tell you what jet sizes to run along with emulsion tubes. Every motor ive built they have givin me the correct jets. From there just dial in the way its been suggested on here. Its very simple to do and no need for a shop. All you need is the flow meter( very inexspensive just buy one when you get your jets). Set the timing at 28 degrees total advance and set the valves at 0 tolerance. What i mean by 0 tolerance is just spin the pushrod by hand and set the valve. As long as it spins there is clearance. Most people adjust them looser but all that does is make your vw motor tick like a damn clock! Good luck

36mm venturi, they come with this one out of the box.

Some good info here, I will need to do this soon. Thanks everyone.