I am getting a new shock which one should I get from elka zero pre-load of normal

2. Should I have them rebuild my shock or new complete

Doc

Much cheaper to have yours rebuilt with the same results as a brand new unit. I couldn't say on the zero pre-load Doc. I've never ridden a bike with em. Tell Lori and Rick I said hi Doc.

The bike Doc is talking about is a Yamaha Raptor.

Doc,

We have had great luck/success with PEP rebuilds on the rear shock, they are a great alternative to aftermarket and a third or less the cost. Depends on the season, but UPS next day and 10 days has been the average time frame.

Oh yea, let them tell you if you need or want any preloading. They'll fax you a spec. sheet questionaire, I've added 20lb.s to my weight the last few times-you never know!!

Rebuilding it is a lot cheaper and basically the same except for a couple differences. Elka uses a larger diameter shaft than stock (400ex anyway) and now they have their Hi-Lo compression adjustment which they can’t add to a rebuild. The minor differences would be like their rod coating and probably a few other things I can’t remember at the moment.

The pre-load question will depend on your front shocks. If you have zero pre-load on them then you want it on the rear. If you don’t have it on the front then you shouldn’t do it on the rear unless you plan on upgrading the front soon to match. As for zero pre-load vs. pre-loaded for duning, you want the zero. The lower ride height keeps the tires in contact with the sand/ground, helps keep the front end down (although it makes it a little harder to weelie), and lowers the center of gravity. Don’t forget you should still be able to adjust the z up, just not quite as far as the stock shock.

the only problem with the zero preload is that whe you go down a face of a dune and hit the bottom you bottm out more on the transitions.