OK THE WORD IS IN!
I BLEW MY RING CAUSING THE CYLINDER TO LOCK UP, THUS BREAKING THE CRANK!
NOW THE ENGINE IS TORN DOWN COMPLETLY!
AT THIS POINT I HAVE TWO OPTIONS:

1) BIG BORE KIT, CAM, SPRINGS.

2) HIGH COMPRESSION PISTON, HEAD GASKET, CAM AND SPRINGS.

KEEP IN MIND ITS A WARRIOR.
MONEY IS NO OBJECT. (BE REALISTIC)
IT HAS A WB R-SERIES PIPE AND K&N.

WHAT IS THE BETTER CHOICE?
HELP ME OUT PEOPLE

I'D GO HIGH COMPRESSION, OR big bore and high compression......yeah...

Do what they would do on Tool Time Tim Taylor.

BIGGER IS BETTER.

The manley bike.

Big the big bad warrior on the dunes.

Yeah.

Sounds like it won't be ready for the next ride though? Or will it.?

I'M ORDERING PARTS TODAY! SO MORE COMMENTS ARE NEEDED. IT WILL BE READY FOR THE NEXT TRIP.
WHY DO YOU THINK ONE IS BETTER THAN THE OTHER?

I'd go with the big bore. Not only would you be upping the cc but also the compression. I also think that the high compression kit you may need to run race gas all the time. I myself dont have race gas money all the time. With the big bore you can still get by with regular on those cheep weekends.

Taco go big bore kit, beefier is better. make sure you brake that new pistion in right or you will be doing the piston thing again soon.

If the Big Bore kit allowes you to still run premium fuel, thats what I'd go for. That race gas is a hassle, specially if you run out!

STOCK IS BEST! AS I have found out, one up grade leads to another and then another. If your Warrior wasn't good enough for you when you got it why did you get it?

Sorry to hear about your ride breaking down. Mines down too. I feel your pain.

____________________________________________
STOCK IS BEST! AS I have found out, one up grade leads to another and then another. If your Warrior wasn't good enough for you when you got it why did you get it?
____________________________________________

Sorry but thats gotta be the worst advice i've heard in a long time...that statement leaves me perturbed...its kinda a sad way to live life...just satisfied with the way things are presented to you...

Is anything ever big enough bad enough or fast enough on the dealership floor...not likely...thats why performance aftermarket companies exist...to finish what the factories started...

Taco fix that s**t up...Dont trip its an expensive disease we have...but what the hell you only live once...have fun while you can...
..............Star.................



[This message has been edited by Star151 (edited 03-02-2001).]

No wonder FHJ is always hittin on you Star!

TACO HIGH COMPRESSION WITH A RADICL SET OF CAMS OR BIG BORE????? WHAT TO DO WHAT TO DO?HHMMMM FOR SURE I'D GO WITH THE RADICAL CAMS AND REDO THE VALVES AND STUFF, AND DEFINITLY GO HIGH COMPRESSION.BUT THE BIG BORE,MIGHT AS WELL IF IT GETS TO SQUIRLEY WITH THAT MUCH POWER YOU CAN ALWAYS GET A DIFFERENT SWINGARM LATER.RACE GAS ISN'T THAT COSTLY 76 LEADED RACE GAS IS ABOUT 4.00 A GAL. IT'S UP TO YOU!

Please excuse me Star but it could be my age. But Stock works! I plan on getting a 400ex within the next six months because thats the best I can find. My first "toy" was an 81 250R that the previous owner "built it up" by putting a 360 bore kit, a carb off a cr 650. Sure it hauled ass but it was a pain to say the least to find parts. I have a friend who has a nice shiny banshee. After every trip he has to take it apart and spend more money.

Don't get me wrong I like to beef stuff up! My truck has a 460. My Baja is sitting till I get enough to put a type 2 tranny with 930 CV's and I eventually want to replace my 1776 with a 2110.

I realize you only live once. Infact half my body "died" not two years ago due to a stroke. My view of life now is I can have 10 more good/fun years or stop with the beers,smokes, harsh offroading and MAYBE live another 20 but I'm going for the good 10 years.

One more thing someone once told me. "Spend your money once" So if you do something make it so you don't have to do it again later.

Star I'm sorry I gave such crummy advice but its my advice. I get perturbed when peolpe take my advice in the wrong context.

It wasen't taken outta context...i took exactly how you wrote and disagreed...

Ok We dissagree now lets ride!

Well, I've had people tell me that stock is best just because they've had problems with it. I agree with Star, THE MORE THE BETTER!!! Any girl will agree. Now about your bike. HAHAHAHA Go for the big bore and the cams...
About Race gas, I am supposed to run race gas but if I don't have it, I don't have it. The bike still runs fine. Now get that thing put thogether and broken it. I still have to work on mine.... the spoket and oil. DOH!!!

WELL...THX PEOPLE.
LIKE STAR SAID, I'M GOING ALL THE WAY.
1) BORING FROM 350 TO 375ish
2) CAM AND SPRINGS
3) LITTLE BIGGER ON THE INTAKE VALVE
4) HIGHER COMPRESSION-8.8:1 TO A 12.5:1
5) OH YEAH....AND A NEW CHAIN.

I WAS THINKING OF GOING WITH A STROKER CRANK BUT IT WOULD HAVE TAKEN TOO LONG. WOULD HAVE MADE IT LIKE A 405 OR SOMETHING.

WE'LL SEE HOW LONG IT LASTS

hey Taco, first trip.

way, way too much compression I think bro,10.5 should be good

ENLIGHTEN ME FHJ.....I DON'T KNOW dI(K.
WHY DO YOU THINK ITS TOO MUCH? WHAT WILL BREAK? I DIDN'T PICK THE COMPRESSION....SAMCOE DID. ANYONE EVER HERE OF HIM? HE'S IN SD AND HE'S BUILT THE SAME THING BEFORE

taco you`ll always need good race gas, that thing is air cooled , correct? when it gets hot out it`ll run too hot, and it`s gonna ping like mad. what if you run out somewhere and all you can get is pump gas ? even to get it back to camp. thats full race comp.

THX. HOPE ITS NOT TOO LATE.

Taco- If you need race gas in the dunes, I no were to get it cheep. It's 76 112oct. 20.00 for 5gals. But it's a secret.

Okay Dune everyone would be interested in knowing where???

Thanks

Yes DUNE, enlighten us...

It's a secret but look me up at the party. An I just might tell you.

[This message has been edited by DUNE (edited 03-05-2001).]

Look you up at the party, of course, but we need the gas to be at the party unless you drive a tanker out there for us? Whats the deal with that... it aint a fishin spot you're hiding from us.

Knowledge comes only to the patient Sandshark...

TACO 12.5:1 IS FINE JUST RUN THE RACE GAS THE STUFF ISN'T THAT MUCH AND BESIDES PUMP GAS RUNS LIKE SH!T. 76 IS THE BEST RACE GAS BECAUSE IT'S REAL LEADED GAS.MY BANSHEE HAS ABOUT 210LBS OF COMPRESSION AND THAT ALL I WILL RUN IS THE 76.BESIDES WITH THE BIGGER INTAKE VALVES YOU WILL NEED IT, LIKE FHJ SAID IT WILL PING WITH PUMP GAS.

DUNE YOU GOTTA TELL ME YOUR SECRET I GOTTA KNOW.

DEMON/FHJ- SO WHAT YOUR SAYING IS THAT IT WON'T PING IF YOU RUN RACE GAS, ONLY PUMP. WHAT ABOUT THE OVERHEATING THING? IS THAT GAS RELATED OR IS THAT BECAUSE OF THE COMPRESSION.(LITTLE UNCLEAR BY FHJ'S POST)

ALL IN ALL, I PLAN ON RUNNING RACE GAS ANYWAY. I JUST DON'T WANT TO WORRY ABOUT OVERHEATING.

Well let's put it this way. the guy only has a 50gal. drum, and get's it filled once every 3 month. If I tell the board this secret then when I go to get some it will all be gone. Also it's a good incentive to show up at the party.

What about using octane boosters? my banshee runs great using 92 octane but was just wondering?

Well, I have work done to my bike TACO ('86 ATC 250R). Trick high compression flattop piston, porting and polishing. Flattened head. Yeah it's a 2stroke but I only run 1 gallon of race gas to 4 of 76 super. It runs just fine.... no probs... People are talking about you needing Leaded gas, but these new bikes are made to run on unleaded gas. (unleaded gas uses pig fat to replace the lubricating properties of lead). But, I haven't tricked out a 4 stroke. I just know that more compression likes more octane...

Whatever dude.... And I'm impatien. You want info you go find it being a lazy ass wont do it. Thanks for the Dali Lama view.

Few fact about feul from F&L:
and that higher octane does not equal more horsepower.

OCTANE
Octane is a chemical molecule. When referred to as ISO-octane in testing to find the "Octane" of a sample of gasoline, it is the reference fuel with the value of 100. In the testing of gasoline we use two reference fuels. The other one is N-Heptane which has an Octane value of 0 or zero.


OCTANE RATING
This is an anti-knock scale developed in the 1920's to rate the quality of a gasoline's ability to resist knocking or pinging. Samples of any gasoline are placed in a laboratory Knock Engine (this is a small, one cylinder engine with a variable combustion cylinder). While the engine is running, the combustion ratio is increased until the engine begins knocking. Now the gasoline is replaced with N-Heptane with an octane of zero and is mixed with the 100 octane ISO-Octane at various ratios until the motor "knocks." If you end up with 10% N-Heptane and 90% ISO-Octane ratio, your test sample has an octane of 90.

FUEL DENSITY
The weight of gasoline in relation to the weight of water. Gas floats on water so it is lighter; F&L Fuel has a density of .721 lb/gal. The important thing is to always use the same density fuel. Changing fuels can richen or lean an engine. Good race fuels never change their density. Fuel density is kind of like oil viscosity. Heavier weights flow less volume through a given opening. This is the same with gasoline; change the density and you can flow less or more through the same carburetor jet.

KNOCK, DETONATION OR PING
This is an intense pressure wave within the cylinder. The sound you hear is from the actual vibration of the cylinder wall; or if the gas air mixture goes off by itself a micro second before the spark plug fires, you have two intense high pressure waves clapping together and that energy wave hitting each other is the sound you hear.

PRE-IGNITION
This is premature ignition before the spark plug fires, usually caused by something glowing inside the cylinder. Do not confuse this with detonation. It is not the same.

OCTANE REQUIREMENT OF YOUR MOTOR
The sum total of all the factors in your motor's equation. Change the spark plug location, valve timing or valve clearance, compression ignition advance, thermostat, the air cleaner loads up, on and on. All of these will affect the requirement. Put it all together, test it and the engine will tell you what it needs. Add one more octane than it requires and it won't go any faster.

Higher octane does not equate to more horsepower.

Modern Formula One engines in Europe run on octane around 100. As modern racing engines are developed, particularly with electronic fuel management systems, the octane requirement will go down due to the electronic management system's ability to instantaneously monitor air fuel ratio, outside ambient temperature and altitude, and engine running condition.

CFR ENGINE
Cooperative Fuel Research. The small, one cylinder engine that the lab uses to rate the octane of gasoline. The difference between research octane and motor octane is that the engine turns at 600 RPMs for research and 900 RPMs for motor octane tests. Also during the motor octane test, the intake manifold is heated to increase the air temperature going into the carburetor.

FLASH POINT
The lowest temperature at which the fuel vapors will burn. Gasoline's flash point is usually around minus 20f.

FREEZING POINT OF GASOLINE
Point at which hydrocarbons start to form crystals. Then they fill in the venturi of the carte and the motor quits. To retard this problem, add less than one percent of Isopropyl alcohol.

REID VAPOR PRESSURE (RVP)
Tendency of the gasoline to evaporate. Too high a RVP and fuel might boil or evaporate in the pump or fuel lines and a fuel pump won't pump vapors. Too low and the engine won't start when cold. Racing fuels have a RVP of approximately 5.0 PSI.

STOCHIOMETRIC AIR FUEL RATIO
The exact air fuel ratio required to completely combust a fuel to water and carbon dioxide. You get all the energy out of the fuel at this point. This air fuel ratio is almost impossible to achieve. Racing gasoline ideally burns at a 14:1 ratio. (14 parts air, 1 part gas).

STORING RACING FUEL
Store in the drum, not in your fuel tank or fuel cell. Anytime you wash your racer or get it wet you get water in the vented fuel cell. Don't race with old fuel, put ethyl or isopropyl alcohol in the fuel cell before reuse, 5-8 oz. Do not use rubbing alcohol, it already has 25% water in it. Direct sunlight exposure to plastic fuel containers can harm gasoline. Gasoline can be stored for months without deterioration if it is absolutely closed to the atmosphere. F&L Fuel is packaged in 55 gallon drums with a nitrogen blanket over the gasoline to increase the storage life.

SAFETY
Follow material safety data sheet (MSDS) instructions regarding shipping, handling, and storage of your racing gas. MSDS can be obtained from your fuel manufacturer upon request.

It was a joke...ever heard of one...dont have to get all medieval....

ps i'm not a dude...dude

CAN SOMEONE EXPLAIN HOW THIS SANDSHARK/STAR151 ARGUMENT HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH MY QUESTION? J/K

I'm not sure Taco, but I'm glad shes not on my a$$ anymore

We both allready answered your question...now were talkin...no argument...just talk...

Now that was an informative post...

It has always been my understanding that "Pre-ignition" was caused by a gasoline igniting PRIOR to spark due to COMPRESSION and HEAT. The higher the octane the more compression needed to reach ignition. If compression needs are met before spark because the octane is too low then PRE-IGNITION occurs. This can cause your engine to continue running (A RUNAWAY) or a (Diesel) after the switch has been turned off.

Therefore, a higher compression engine needs higher octane gas or pre-ignition will occur with the lower octane gas.

On the other hand, a higher octane gas in a lower compression engine may not burn completly and therefor not give optimum power.

Those were my preconceptions... How right am I?

Vor

------------------
May the Dune Gods Smile Upon You
The Church of the Shifting Sands
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/thechurchofth...heshiftingsands

Boy witch manual are you guys reading out of.

No arguement Sandshark Love Star 151
Grrrrr..... I'm just bein a pain in the ass like usual. Cant wait to meet you one day and buy you a beer.

BOy is Taco stressed or what...

Actually, I think the flash point of Gasonline is minus 73F. hehehehe..

Hey Star....DUDE!!!! LOL

The DUDE part was meant for Taco. I was calling Star the Dali Lama. Sorry it sounded backwards.....

Just checkin S.Shark...

We'll meet one day and i'll by you the beer...

oh ps.. JonRyder....who said i'm not off your ass yet...

Star, would you be if I bought the beer? Didn't think so. Besides we'd probably disagree on what kind, the temp and where to meet.

Probably...but its a start

VOR YOU ARE RIGHT.BASICALLY THE HIGHER THE OCTANE THE SLOWER THE FUEL BURN OR IGNITE.THUS THE MORE COMPRESION THE HIGHER THE OCTANE.

TACO IT'S A GAS THING, GAS BURNS HOT.ON THE OTHER HAND IF YOU WERE TO RUN ALCHOL YOUR BIKE WOULD RUN A LOT COOLER, BUT YOU DON'T WANT TO START MESSING WITH ALCHOL TO MUCH WORK AND STUFF TO DEAL WITH.

VOR YOU ARE RIGHT. THE HIGHER THE COMRESION THE HIGHER YOUR OCTANE NEEDS TO BE.