I would like to know who builds custom gas tanks , I would like to mount a tank in the back of a fiberglass car . small size 3" X 16" X 36 or so , fit at the rear of the tub then mount the rear seat/ seats just in front of it
is this a big deal just to save some weight ????
thanks

I would try Jegs or Summit

I need someone who can make a aluminum tank not Jegs

sandhopper, i have a stock tank in the front of my manx and the wieght up front sure helps out in turnning in the dunes. it starts to push the front end and is harder to drive when its low on fuel. just something to think about.

I thought the idea was to get as light in front as possible

i dont know about that. with a 1/2 to a full tank of gas it turns great for me and pushs in the turns with a 1/4 to E tank. my friends say it looks like its on rails in the dunes. they have a playtek 4.3 v6 and the other has a quicksand ls1 car. just my 2 cents. it works for me

I've got both Stock VW tank up front and an auxiliary 15gal. aluminum in the rear:



Not sure where to find another like it though. I traded the rear seat I got rid of (didn't even have enough head room for little kids so I didn't want it) for it and the guy I got it from said it came with his Jeep.

I found the extra weight in the rear helped my suspension a little - gave it more pre-load and stopped some of the swing axle camber issues. To be honest I haven't noticed any handling differences with either tank full or empty on the street or in the dunes...just that it rides a little smoother with the extra weight in the back.

Jason , nice looking car is that a full lenght car or 14.5 shorter ? do you know the weight , do they really dune ok or do the nose dive ?
Manxout , send me or post a picture of you ride always looking for ideas .As far as push in the turns most of the buggys I have driven push a little thats why they made turning brakes

Mine is a full length...or would if it had a pan, it's all tube. Haven't had it weighed yet. I'm guessing around 1500lbs give or take a few hundred. My rail is 1300 and this seems pretty similar, it's got a slightly lighter motor than my rail but the fiberglass and dual tanks probably helps even it out. I'm hoping there will be another scale day at the dunes sometime so I can get an accurate weight on it.

It dunes ok. Biggest problem is the motor is just too small, it's only a mild 1776 and can barely spin my paddles (My rail has a 2.3 ford and I run 13+'s with a play cut). Next biggest problem duning it is visibility - much harder to see out of than the rail - but part of that was the old seats were sagging so bad I sat way too low in it...almost like a grandma trying to see over the wheel. With the new seats (ones in the photo) I sit up a couple inches higher and it's MUCH easier to see now...but I haven't had it to the dunes since that swap. Final problem duning it is the lights - street legal lights just don't put out enough in the dunes, I need to get some auxiliary off road only lights for it

I don't have turn brakes in the Manx and don't really miss them. I have them in my rail but seldom use them because they're real hard to reach in the cramped dork*pit. The Manx could handle better...but it's not anything I complain about.

With the current motor I find it dunes just as well on it's street tires as it does with the paddles. In fact I think I've gotten stuck less when running the street tires! In a few weeks though we'll be swapping the swing axle for a 002 bus tranny and putting the turbo 2.3 I'm building in there - then I expect it will be more fun than my rail with the paddles

sandhopper, here are a few pic's of my buggy. heres alittle info on it. motor 2275 with a 120 cam, cb heads [ 42 x 37] and cb case, h beam rods, 44 webers, it has 2 by3 rear arms and 1 1/2 longer by 1 wider frt. arms and a rancho close ratio trans with a 438 r/p. it has about 10 inchs of travel frt. and back. if i cut the fenders i could get more. it does pretty good out at glamis and at barstow. ive had it and duned it for about 8 years now.[attachmentid=27790][attachmentid=27791][attachmentid=27792][attachmentid=27793]

If you want the car to slide nice you need at least 35% of your weight up front, and flat profile rear tires. Most people don't know that, but it really helps. Of course, you need the proper suspension up front to handle that kind of weight bias, like heavier springs and good shocks properly tuned, and possibly larger tires for floatation. If you have this kind of weight bias you won't need razor front tires like cars with lighter front ends.

Check these:

Tires

Weight distribution

manxout
what front beam do you have is it 10" tower with longer arms 1.5 X1 ?
good looking car , Im trying for very much the same only 1914 with turbo and a back seat for grandkids

I can make you one but I am in AZ.
LATER DON~~~

sorry to hear your in AZ , but ups goes there don't they Oh maybe not that deep in AZ.
Just kidding , what would you charge to make a tank 3" X 16X36?

its just the stock beam with torsion adjuster and sway-a-way torsions and wright 1 1/2 by 1 arms. i would have to cut the body to use the 10 inch beam

Why do you only want a 7.5 gallon tank?