Im switching out my stock VW set up to a CNC pedal. I will be using a slide plate under the CNC unit. Im not real big on the plastic type line so im going with metal line. Any pitfalls or tricks i should know? Thank ya! JC

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but make sure you flush out ALL of the old fluid and put "Dot 4" or better brake fluid in your new system. Anything less will cause the rubber seals in to deteriorate over time.

Zilla

The paperwork that came with the new unit says DOT3. I dont realy know the diff.

That's cool...Trust the paperwork. My old buggy had those pedals and the fluid stared turning black and my buddy smacked me up side the head for not using DOT 4 of better fluid. Maybe I need to smack him back next time.

Zilla

the difference is in the boiling point dot 3 boils at a lower temp
just don't get em hot

I hope i never need to worrie about that chit boiling! My wife is the regular driver................. Better go Dot 4!!

Are you going to use the slide to adjust the pedals? If you are you will need to put on braided lines for the brake and clutch, and also figure out a way to make your throttle adjustable. The best way to have a adjustable throttle is to buy a hydraulic one but those don't really work that great. I had one on my first buggy for 2 seasons. You have to fool around with them all the time.

Yes, the slide is for adjusting the pedals. I bought the throttle adjuster(check pic). Didnt realy want to at a cost $45, thinking i could make something myself but, with my luck the darn thing would cause the throttle to stick wide open or some noise like that.

I had better luck using the other type of throttle adjuster. It's basicly an aluminum rod with holes in it that match the 2" difference on the bottom plate. Maybe Mike330R can get a few pictures. It's the one in the center of this picture
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=951
The hydraulic throttle worked terrible for me. I used a Morse cable.

You'll also need a manifold and braided lines for the pedal assembly to be able to move.

added adjustable pedals to my rail ( the wifes rail??). Used small sections of braided line and the same adjuster above. Also used the grey type throttle cable. Works great.

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I have a Slide Plate for sale if your interested, only used a couple of times $40.00

Dude! Thats a nice slide plate where did you get that thing? Wish i didnt already have a the other one.




Already have one but, thanx.

[quote=JOHNNYCASH,Jun 14 2005, 05:42 PM]
[quote=JSGrewal,Jun 14 2005, 06:55 AM]added adjustable pedals to my rail ( the wifes rail??). Used small sections of braided line and the same adjuster above. Also used the grey type throttle cable. Works great.

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Dude! Thats a nice slide plate where did you get that thing? Wish i didnt already have a the other one.


I bought that plate from the place in Yuma- Off Road Buggy Supply. We put in on at Glamis over night during Tday last year. Cleaned up the install after the week was over. It is made by Neal. Way cool to use!

Brake Fluid Tech

The two most common brake fluids used in the automotive industry are fluids that contain polyalkylene glycol ether and fluid that contains silicone or silicium-based polymer. Both fluids are common but very different in regards to the manner in which they perform. Fluids containing polyalkylene glycol ether are more widely used and are the only fluids that should be used in racing brake systems. Because brake systems may reach extreme temperatures brake fluid must have the ability to withstand these temperatures and not degrade rapidly.

SILICONE BASED FLUID
Fluids containing silicone are generally used in military type vehicles and because silicone based fluids will not damage painted surfaces they are also somewhat common in show cars. Silicone-based fluids are regarded as DOT 5 fluids. They are highly compressible and can give the driver a feeling of a spongy pedal. The higher the brake system temperature the more the compressibility of the fluid. This increases the feeling of a spongy pedal.

Silicone based fluids are non-hydroscopic meaning that they will not absorb or mix with water. When water is present in the brake system it will create a water/fluid situation. Because water boils at approximately 212¾F, the ability of the brake system to operate correctly decreases, and the steam created from boiling water adds air to the system. It is important to remember that water may be present in any brake system. Silicone brake fluid lacks the ability to deal with this moisture and will dramatically decrease a brake system's performance.

POLY GLYCOL ETHER BASED FLUIDS
Fluids containing polyglycol ether are regarded as DOT 3, 4, and DOT 5.1. These type fluids are hydroscopic meaning they have an ability to mix with water and still perform adequately. However, water will drastically reduce the boiling point of the fluid. In a passenger car this is not an issue. In a racecar it is a major issue because as the boiling point decreases the performance of the fluid also decreases. Polyglycol type fluids are two times less compressible than silicone type fluids, even when heated. Less compressibility of the brake fluid will increase pedal feel. Changing fluid on a regular basis will greatly increase the performance of the brake system.

All brake fluids must meet federal standard #116. Three Department of Transportation (DOT) minimal specifications for brake fluid are defined in this standard. They are DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 (for fluids based with polyalkylene glycol ether) and DOT 5 (for silicone based fluids).
MINIMAL boiling points for these specifications are as follows:

Type Wet Boiling Point Dry Boiling Point
DOT 3 284¾F 401¾F
DOT 4 311¾F 446¾F
DOT 5 356¾F 500¾F
DOT 5.1 375¾F 518¾F

DOT 3 VS. DOT 4 and 5.1
U.S. Brake 570 Gold is a DOT 3 type fluid. However, it has a dry boiling point that is 52¾ higher than DOT 5.1 specifications, 124¾ higher than DOT 4 specifications and 169¾ higher than DOT 3 specifications. U.S.

Brake's 570 Gold fluid meets or exceeds all DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 lubrication, corrosion protection and viscosity specifications. U.S Brake's 570 Gold racing fluid meets but does not exceed federal standards for wet boiling point specification; therefore, its classification is DOT 3.

U.S Brake's Ultra HTX brake fluid dramatically exceeds all DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 standards for wet and dry boiling points, lubrication, corrosion protection, and viscosity specifications.

WET VS. DRY BOILING POINT
The term boiling point when used regarding brake fluid means the temperatures that brake fluid will begin to boil.


WET BOILING POINT
The minimum temperatures that brake fluids will begin to boil when the brake system contains 3% water by volume of the system.

DRY BOILING POINT
The temperatures that brake fluid will boil with no water present in the system.

MOISTURE IN THE BRAKE SYSTEM
Water/moisture can be found in nearly all brake systems. Moisture enters the brake system in several ways. One of the more common ways is from using old or pre-opened fluid. Keep in mind that brake fluid draws in moisture from the surrounding air. Tightly sealing brake fluid bottles and not storing them for long periods of time will help keep moisture out. When changing or bleeding brake fluid always replace master cylinder caps as soon as possible to prevent moisture from entering the system. Condensation (small moisture droplets) can form in lines and calipers. As caliper and line temperatures heat up and cool repeatedly, condensation forms, leaving behind an increase in moisture/water. Over time the moisture becomes trapped in the internal sections of calipers, lines, master cylinders, etc. When this water reaches 212¾F the water turns to steam. Many times air in the brake system is a result of water that has turned to steam. The build up of steam will create air pressure in the system, sometimes to the point that enough pressure is created to push caliper pistons into the brake pad. This will create brake drag as the rotor and pads make contact and can also create more heat in the system.

Another way that moisture may enter the system is through diffusion. Diffusion occurs when moisture enters through rubber brake hoses. Using hoses made from EPDM materials (Ethlene-Propylene-Diene-Materials) OR steel braided brake hose with a non-rubber sleeve (usually Teflon) will greatly reduce the diffusion process.

THINGS TO REMEMBER

• A brake fluid's dry boiling point is more important then wet boiling point when used in a racing brake system.
• Racing brake system fluid should be changed often. A system with fresh fluid will have a lower moisture content and therefore perform best.
• Never use silicone-based fluids in racing brake systems.
• Never re-use fluid. Never mix types or brands of brake fluid.
• Purge the system (completely drain) and replace the brake fluid often for maximum performance.

Any tricks on making the morse(sp?) cable work better? I have it working fair, Id really like to see some rear engine VW's set ups! The guy at the bug shop told me to put a hose clamp on a short langth of fule line and run it through the doghouse. Im not real keen on this but, if its how its done ill go with it.

[quote=JSGrewal,Jun 14 2005, 06:29 PM]
[quote=JOHNNYCASH,Jun 14 2005, 05:42 PM]
[quote=JSGrewal,Jun 14 2005, 06:55 AM]added adjustable pedals to my rail ( the wifes rail??). Used small sections of braided line and the same adjuster above. Also used the grey type throttle cable. Works great.

[attachmentid=27589]
[right][snapback]1023242[/snapback][/right]
[/quote]

Dude! Thats a nice slide plate where did you get that thing? Wish i didnt already have a the other one.


I bought that plate from the place in Yuma- Off Road Buggy Supply. We put in on at Glamis over night during Tday last year. Cleaned up the install after the week was over. It is made by Neal. Way cool to use!
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[/quote]we got that same setup, works groovy