Full Version: How Much H/p Am I Losing?
OK guys I need some of your tech inputs! I purchased a S/U (410 hp LS1) last season and I noticed that my "Turnkey" engine intake seems to be facing the wrong direction. All other cars with "Turnkey" supplied engines seem to have the intake facing the rear of the car (above the drive pulleys), instead of ingesting hot air straight from the dual radiator fans like mine (see pic). Question is how much H/P am I losing by ingesting pre-heated ir from the fans vice getting cooler air? / Is it worth the hassle of "flipping" the intake manifold? Thanks in advance....
I can tell you this.. I wish mine was facing that way now.. It stays cleaner much and I mean MUCH longer.. The tech guys might be able to tell you if your actually losing anything or not - but I dont think it would be to much.. Warm air or no air from dirty filter..
The cooler the air, the more HORSEPOWER!! simple as that.
I installed an intercooler fan on my Subie and it made a nicely notable difference, especially after the car gets hot (heatsoak).
I installed an intercooler fan on my Subie and it made a nicely notable difference, especially after the car gets hot (heatsoak).
If ya built a scoop or had it come up a few inches to match the top of the radiators - you would be set with colder air..
I put a 90 on my air intake to get it away from the radiator. But I got a honda so what do I know.
thats what Im talking about.. I've been looking in to the possibililty of a 180 bend to bring it back up on top of the manifold..
My buddy got a 90 for an UMP air box. Used a peice of exaust tube with a 45 to come out on the top side of the motor. Hey Chummin I got a 180 mandrel bend to put on mine, it was like $40 from a muffler shop. Mine is 2 1/2 "
Ill have to check that.. Currently mine is 4" and there is not alot of room to play with that back bar..
QUOTE(readster @ Jul 6 2005, 06:28 PM)
I put a 90 on my air intake to get it away from the radiator. But I got a honda so what do I know.
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DUH! Never thought of that! I think I prefer to try this rather than turn the intake around. Thanks, this may work. Appreciate all the input
CHUMMIN: I can also see your point about the filter staying out of the sand path. I think I better keep the setup I got!
QUOTE(Chummin @ Jul 6 2005, 07:59 PM)
Currently mine is 4" and there is not alot of room to play with
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Are we still talking about air cleaners?
j/k most truck shops carry rubber elbows that size for over the road trucks. Try Rush truck center.
yea, just put a snorkel on it.
Probably not losing that much compared to a rear intake. If you think about the hot air from the headers, blowing straight back into the intake inlet, I'd take the radiator air anyday!
But a deflector between the intake and the radiator fans would be the "hot" ticket.
Carl
But a deflector between the intake and the radiator fans would be the "hot" ticket.
Carl
This is probably a stupid question, but why use an intercooler only on a turbo motor... and why not use an intercooler set-up on a non turboed stock EFI, like an ls1 ?.
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You can do one of these, Sandwinder is making them.
QUOTE(swark @ Jul 7 2005, 05:48 AM)
This is probably a stupid question, but why use an intercooler only on a turbo motor... and why not use an intercooler set-up on a non turboed stock EFI, like an ls1 ?.
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It would only work well if there is a large differential in temps. If there wasn't it would act like a heat sink and maybe add heat.
Also, in that Sandwinder "elbow," That bottom bend/weld joint looks a little abrupt and not good for a smooth transition. It might be better to just make a "Tee" in the front of the throttle body to each side and use two filters just to the sides of the fans.
But it's chrome, so that makes up for a hp loss!
Carl
I can tell you that when Danzio dynod my Ls1 buckshot it got a bit warm from no air moving through the radiator or motor so we put a big fan on it and picked up 8hp the next pull.
QUOTE(JWB @ Jul 6 2005, 06:38 PM)
OK guys I need some of your tech inputs! I purchased a S/U (410 hp LS1) last season and I noticed that my "Turnkey" engine intake seems to be facing the wrong direction. All other cars with "Turnkey" supplied engines seem to have the intake facing the rear of the car (above the drive pulleys), instead of ingesting hot air straight from the dual radiator fans like mine (see pic). Question is how much H/P am I losing by ingesting pre-heated ir from the fans vice getting cooler air? / Is it worth the hassle of "flipping" the intake manifold? Thanks in advance....
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I doubt you could see the difference on the dyno all together, to insignificant IMO. I cant imagine the difference being anything more than 2hp and the dynos accuracy would come in to play at that point.
QUOTE(swark @ Jul 7 2005, 06:48 AM)
This is probably a stupid question, but why use an intercooler only on a turbo motor... and why not use an intercooler set-up on a non turboed stock EFI, like an ls1 ?.
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because turbos generate heat when they compress the air. turbo outlets can get 400+ degrees under high boost, so intercoolers are necessary for cooling that back down.
QUOTE(dave@rotaryheads @ Jul 7 2005, 08:32 AM)
QUOTE(swark @ Jul 7 2005, 06:48 AM)
This is probably a stupid question, but why use an intercooler only on a turbo motor... and why not use an intercooler set-up on a non turboed stock EFI, like an ls1 ?.
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because turbos generate heat when they compress the air. turbo outlets can get 400+ degrees under high boost, so intercoolers are necessary for cooling that back down.
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The same is true for any form of compressor... turbo, roots, screw, ect., ect...
Zilla
QUOTE(Sandzilla @ Jul 7 2005, 02:13 PM)
QUOTE(dave@rotaryheads @ Jul 7 2005, 08:32 AM)
QUOTE(swark @ Jul 7 2005, 06:48 AM)
This is probably a stupid question, but why use an intercooler only on a turbo motor... and why not use an intercooler set-up on a non turboed stock EFI, like an ls1 ?.
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because turbos generate heat when they compress the air. turbo outlets can get 400+ degrees under high boost, so intercoolers are necessary for cooling that back down.
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The same is true for any form of compressor... turbo, roots, screw, ect., ect...
Zilla
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Very true statement. Any compressor creates heat! Thanks again for all the input to what now seems to be a simple problem. When I first posted this ? I hadn't thought out the true variables. Another perfect example of why this board works so well...
QUOTE(madweazl @ Jul 7 2005, 07:44 AM)
I doubt you could see the difference on the dyno all together, to insignificant IMO. I cant imagine the difference being anything more than 2hp and the dynos accuracy would come in to play at that point.
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Even with a towing dyno, 20 deg will be worth about 5-9 hp. If it's seeing radiator out air at about 140-190, putting it in ambient at about 85-90 degrees will be significant. It does make a diff.
Carl
I'd relocate it to the back. If the filter get's dirty just clean it. It's not like it's going to get dirty on every run. Simply clean it before each trip (which you should do anyway) and it's a done deal. You don't have to worry about exahust heat because as your moving forward the exhaust heat is moving backward (or away from) the filter.
I'd defintiely relocate it. It will abosolutely affect the performance for the better.
I'd defintiely relocate it. It will abosolutely affect the performance for the better.
my buddy had a V-6 shortstar same proplem, instead of flipping the intake
we bought a 90 degree 3'' id rubber mount to mount that to the throttle body
then to a piece of 3'' aluminum then to the filter. drilled a hole through the center of the filter used washers and mounted it to a 1 1/2'' billet bracket.spun the filter below the radiator fans in the corner.
we bought a 90 degree 3'' id rubber mount to mount that to the throttle body
then to a piece of 3'' aluminum then to the filter. drilled a hole through the center of the filter used washers and mounted it to a 1 1/2'' billet bracket.spun the filter below the radiator fans in the corner.
Carl P Posted Today, 05:50 AM
QUOTE(madweazl @ Jul 7 2005, 07:44 AM)
I doubt you could see the difference on the dyno all together, to insignificant IMO. I cant imagine the difference being anything more than 2hp and the dynos accuracy would come in to play at that point.
OK,,, 5 - 9 hp gain @ 20 degrees? . So when its 100 degrees outside and I go for a ride in my car with a ( never been done yet )
modified intake system @ 60 degrees input temp, ( 40 degree diff ) I'll gain 18 HP if I can reduce the overall intake air by 40 degrees ???. or 40 %... ... Then,, What is the charge air input temp to the heads or manifold after passing through an intercooler starting first at 400 degrees fresh out of a turbo ???? % ??? Im not sure how boost comes into play in this equation ? ( like I said -a stupid question ).
.
QUOTE(madweazl @ Jul 7 2005, 07:44 AM)
I doubt you could see the difference on the dyno all together, to insignificant IMO. I cant imagine the difference being anything more than 2hp and the dynos accuracy would come in to play at that point.
QUOTE
Even with a towing dyno, 20 deg will be worth about 5-9 hp. If it's seeing radiator out air at about 140-190, putting it in ambient at about 85-90 degrees will be significant. It does make a diff.
Carl
Carl
OK,,, 5 - 9 hp gain @ 20 degrees? . So when its 100 degrees outside and I go for a ride in my car with a ( never been done yet )
modified intake system @ 60 degrees input temp, ( 40 degree diff ) I'll gain 18 HP if I can reduce the overall intake air by 40 degrees ???. or 40 %... ... Then,, What is the charge air input temp to the heads or manifold after passing through an intercooler starting first at 400 degrees fresh out of a turbo ???? % ??? Im not sure how boost comes into play in this equation ? ( like I said -a stupid question )..
QUOTE(Xtreme Motorsports @ Jul 8 2005, 09:21 AM)
I'd relocate it to the back. If the filter get's dirty just clean it. It's not like it's going to get dirty on every run. Simply clean it before each trip (which you should do anyway) and it's a done deal. You don't have to worry about exahust heat because as your moving forward the exhaust heat is moving backward (or away from) the filter.
I'd defintiely relocate it. It will abosolutely affect the performance for the better.
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I'd defintiely relocate it. It will abosolutely affect the performance for the better.
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IMHO thats very bad advise
we all run K&N s ...you get them in every shape... and they are free flowing...
but the fact is they are actualy terrible for dusty conditions.
do whatever you can do to get fresh, clean air to the filter (scoop, shields,...). if you move your filter all the way to the back your engine eats your own dust storm
pull your oil pan after some trips; you will be shocked how much silt (sp? ..fine dust?) you will find in the pan
...or take a oil sample to a local BigRig oil change station and have them do a oil analyse ($14.95
) the silica contamination will be off the scale 
Just look at all the exhaust systems and see the sand blasting that happens. Thats why I left my filter up front.
Funny deal about airflow. It doesn't do what it would seem natural for it to do.
If you've ever "tufted" a buggy, then you can see what I mean. Smooth surface vehicles are sensitive to small changes in shape, but a cage vehicle , like what we're talking about, has some major aerodynamic problems. You have to make major changes on the interior of the cage stucture to make a minor change in airflow.
We went this far to try to improve the cooling and reduce the dirt on the rear of or older Class 2 car. Also did it on a rear engine Mazda single. Got great dividends in being able to cool both cars WOT without running the fan. Learned alot too.
The air is making an "eddy" behind the engine of the air from the headers. That is the last place you want to put an intake. IMHO.
Look at the fine dust on the rear of the cage after a run. and feel the temp of the cage itself. after a good run, you could prolly cook carne on it.
Carl
If you've ever "tufted" a buggy, then you can see what I mean. Smooth surface vehicles are sensitive to small changes in shape, but a cage vehicle , like what we're talking about, has some major aerodynamic problems. You have to make major changes on the interior of the cage stucture to make a minor change in airflow.
We went this far to try to improve the cooling and reduce the dirt on the rear of or older Class 2 car. Also did it on a rear engine Mazda single. Got great dividends in being able to cool both cars WOT without running the fan. Learned alot too.
The air is making an "eddy" behind the engine of the air from the headers. That is the last place you want to put an intake. IMHO.
Look at the fine dust on the rear of the cage after a run. and feel the temp of the cage itself. after a good run, you could prolly cook carne on it.
Carl
QUOTE(Carl P @ Jul 9 2005, 12:06 PM)
Funny deal about airflow. It doesn't do what it would seem natural for it to do.
If you've ever "tufted" a buggy, then you can see what I mean. Smooth surface vehicles are sensitive to small changes in shape, but a cage vehicle , like what we're talking about, has some major aerodynamic problems. You have to make major changes on the interior of the cage stucture to make a minor change in airflow.
We went this far to try to improve the cooling and reduce the dirt on the rear of or older Class 2 car. Also did it on a rear engine Mazda single. Got great dividends in being able to cool both cars WOT without running the fan. Learned alot too.
The air is making an "eddy" behind the engine of the air from the headers. That is the last place you want to put an intake. IMHO.
Look at the fine dust on the rear of the cage after a run. and feel the temp of the cage itself. after a good run, you could prolly cook carne on it.
Carl
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If you've ever "tufted" a buggy, then you can see what I mean. Smooth surface vehicles are sensitive to small changes in shape, but a cage vehicle , like what we're talking about, has some major aerodynamic problems. You have to make major changes on the interior of the cage stucture to make a minor change in airflow.
We went this far to try to improve the cooling and reduce the dirt on the rear of or older Class 2 car. Also did it on a rear engine Mazda single. Got great dividends in being able to cool both cars WOT without running the fan. Learned alot too.
The air is making an "eddy" behind the engine of the air from the headers. That is the last place you want to put an intake. IMHO.
Look at the fine dust on the rear of the cage after a run. and feel the temp of the cage itself. after a good run, you could prolly cook carne on it.
Carl
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yes, sandrails are about as aerodynamic as a brick wall
there is a huge vortex right behind the tail: dust , exhaust, heat ...not the place where i would like to breath
(or where i would mount the engine 
)
sorry, bad quality pic but its easy to see what we are talking about
IMHO everybody spends lots of $$$ on the engine to get every little bit of hp out of it....isnt it just nuts to waste hp if the engine has to breath less dense, heated air ?
QUOTE(spooner @ Jul 9 2005, 03:02 PM)
QUOTE(Carl P @ Jul 9 2005, 12:06 PM)
Funny deal about airflow. It doesn't do what it would seem natural for it to do.
If you've ever "tufted" a buggy, then you can see what I mean. Smooth surface vehicles are sensitive to small changes in shape, but a cage vehicle , like what we're talking about, has some major aerodynamic problems. You have to make major changes on the interior of the cage stucture to make a minor change in airflow.
We went this far to try to improve the cooling and reduce the dirt on the rear of or older Class 2 car. Also did it on a rear engine Mazda single. Got great dividends in being able to cool both cars WOT without running the fan. Learned alot too.
The air is making an "eddy" behind the engine of the air from the headers. That is the last place you want to put an intake. IMHO.
Look at the fine dust on the rear of the cage after a run. and feel the temp of the cage itself. after a good run, you could prolly cook carne on it.
Carl
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If you've ever "tufted" a buggy, then you can see what I mean. Smooth surface vehicles are sensitive to small changes in shape, but a cage vehicle , like what we're talking about, has some major aerodynamic problems. You have to make major changes on the interior of the cage stucture to make a minor change in airflow.
We went this far to try to improve the cooling and reduce the dirt on the rear of or older Class 2 car. Also did it on a rear engine Mazda single. Got great dividends in being able to cool both cars WOT without running the fan. Learned alot too.
The air is making an "eddy" behind the engine of the air from the headers. That is the last place you want to put an intake. IMHO.
Look at the fine dust on the rear of the cage after a run. and feel the temp of the cage itself. after a good run, you could prolly cook carne on it.
Carl
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yes, sandrails are about as aerodynamic as a brick wall
there is a huge vortex right behind the tail: dust , exhaust, heat ...not the place where i would like to breath
(or where i would mount the engine )sorry, bad quality pic but its easy to see what we are talking about
IMHO everybody spends lots of $$$ on the engine to get every little bit of hp out of it....isnt it just nuts to waste hp if the engine has to breath less dense, heated air ?
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I agree! Didn't do much thinking about my ?? before posting. Let's just say I'm convinced that it's current location is probably best/better than putting it in the "sand wake". Appreciate the inputs
QUOTE(JWB @ Jul 9 2005, 09:40 PM)
QUOTE(spooner @ Jul 9 2005, 03:02 PM)
QUOTE(Carl P @ Jul 9 2005, 12:06 PM)
Funny deal about airflow. It doesn't do what it would seem natural for it to do.
If you've ever "tufted" a buggy, then you can see what I mean. Smooth surface vehicles are sensitive to small changes in shape, but a cage vehicle , like what we're talking about, has some major aerodynamic problems. You have to make major changes on the interior of the cage stucture to make a minor change in airflow.
We went this far to try to improve the cooling and reduce the dirt on the rear of or older Class 2 car. Also did it on a rear engine Mazda single. Got great dividends in being able to cool both cars WOT without running the fan. Learned alot too.
The air is making an "eddy" behind the engine of the air from the headers. That is the last place you want to put an intake. IMHO.
Look at the fine dust on the rear of the cage after a run. and feel the temp of the cage itself. after a good run, you could prolly cook carne on it.
Carl
[right][snapback]1060633[/snapback][/right]
If you've ever "tufted" a buggy, then you can see what I mean. Smooth surface vehicles are sensitive to small changes in shape, but a cage vehicle , like what we're talking about, has some major aerodynamic problems. You have to make major changes on the interior of the cage stucture to make a minor change in airflow.
We went this far to try to improve the cooling and reduce the dirt on the rear of or older Class 2 car. Also did it on a rear engine Mazda single. Got great dividends in being able to cool both cars WOT without running the fan. Learned alot too.
The air is making an "eddy" behind the engine of the air from the headers. That is the last place you want to put an intake. IMHO.
Look at the fine dust on the rear of the cage after a run. and feel the temp of the cage itself. after a good run, you could prolly cook carne on it.
Carl
[right][snapback]1060633[/snapback][/right]
yes, sandrails are about as aerodynamic as a brick wall
there is a huge vortex right behind the tail: dust , exhaust, heat ...not the place where i would like to breath
(or where i would mount the engine )sorry, bad quality pic but its easy to see what we are talking about
IMHO everybody spends lots of $$$ on the engine to get every little bit of hp out of it....isnt it just nuts to waste hp if the engine has to breath less dense, heated air ?
[right][snapback]1060731[/snapback][/right]
I agree! Didn't do much thinking about my ?? before posting. Let's just say I'm convinced that it's current location is probably best/better than putting it in the "sand wake". Appreciate the inputs
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And do not clean an K&N after every trip. They need to be a little dirty to work right. fresh cleaned will let much more sand trough it .
well id say fab up some deflectors to divert the air coming out of the radiator to the sides and mabye put a bend in you intake to get the filter to some fresh air.the cooler the intkae air the more power you get.
QUOTE(Kevin @ Jul 9 2005, 10:06 PM)
well id say fab up some deflectors to divert the air coming out of the radiator to the sides and mabye put a bend in you intake to get the filter to some fresh air.the cooler the intkae air the more power you get.
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I'm going to rig something to get it out of the direct path of fan exhaust, haven't decided what yet. Should be really simple with some imagination....
QUOTE
And do not clean an K&N after every trip. They need to be a little dirty to work right. fresh cleaned will let much more sand trough it
Haven't heard that one before
. Just assumed that the "outerwears" would keep most of the fine paticles from passing, although if enough air is getting through for combustion then sand is bound to be present as well...
QUOTE(JWB @ Jul 10 2005, 07:59 AM)
QUOTE(Kevin @ Jul 9 2005, 10:06 PM)
well id say fab up some deflectors to divert the air coming out of the radiator to the sides and mabye put a bend in you intake to get the filter to some fresh air.the cooler the intkae air the more power you get.
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I'm going to rig something to get it out of the direct path of fan exhaust, haven't decided what yet. Should be really simple with some imagination....
QUOTE
And do not clean an K&N after every trip. They need to be a little dirty to work right. fresh cleaned will let much more sand trough it
Haven't heard that one before
. Just assumed that the "outerwears" would keep most of the fine paticles from passing, although if enough air is getting through for combustion then sand is bound to be present as well...[right][snapback]1061133[/snapback][/right]
JWB
the outerwear is too coars to filter dust (if it would, the surface area would be way too small). the outerwear is only there that the sand and bigger particles dont stick to the (oiled) filter.
Another item is the size of the filter. Sorry guys, but here bigger is better. Remember that you gain more surface area with an increase in diameter over longer. Put the biggest, longest, hugest filter you can get. Better yet, use that "TEE" idea nd put two on either side of the fans. Then you don't need to fab anything but an intake TEE.
Then by all means, CHROME IT!!!
The smaller the filter, the harder the engine is pulling air through it making it harder for the cotton gauze to hold it (dirt/sand) when it vibrates. High velocity make the small sand particles like tiny bullets. Imagine a bead blaster.
Carl
Then by all means, CHROME IT!!!
The smaller the filter, the harder the engine is pulling air through it making it harder for the cotton gauze to hold it (dirt/sand) when it vibrates. High velocity make the small sand particles like tiny bullets. Imagine a bead blaster.
Carl
JWB
Pop the hood on your car, and take a look at how the auto manufacture took some time to abstract cold air from the front of your car. The air cleaner is in front of all the hot objects.
After a run, take a heat gun and check all the locations where you might install the air cleaner. Or better yet while on the dyno, car is running fan’s are on check for hot and cooler locations, this might help for your location.
Looking at your picture it’s hard to tell the best location, but I would say the best location would be in front of the radiator.
Or maybe just a smooth 90deg up, with deflector for the radiator fans.
On a eddy current dyno with the correct soft ware and calibration , you should see a different in torque with just the head lights turned on and off.
Pop the hood on your car, and take a look at how the auto manufacture took some time to abstract cold air from the front of your car. The air cleaner is in front of all the hot objects.
After a run, take a heat gun and check all the locations where you might install the air cleaner. Or better yet while on the dyno, car is running fan’s are on check for hot and cooler locations, this might help for your location.
Looking at your picture it’s hard to tell the best location, but I would say the best location would be in front of the radiator.
Or maybe just a smooth 90deg up, with deflector for the radiator fans.
On a eddy current dyno with the correct soft ware and calibration , you should see a different in torque with just the head lights turned on and off.
QUOTE(hopper @ Jul 10 2005, 09:36 AM)
JWB
Pop the hood on your car, and take a look at how the auto manufacture took some time to abstract cold air from the front of your car. The air cleaner is in front of all the hot objects.
After a run, take a heat gun and check all the locations where you might install the air cleaner. Or better yet while on the dyno, car is running fan’s are on check for hot and cooler locations, this might help for your location.
Looking at your picture it’s hard to tell the best location, but I would say the best location would be in front of the radiator.
Or maybe just a smooth 90deg up, with deflector for the radiator fans.
On a eddy current dyno with the correct soft ware and calibration , you should see a different in torque with just the head lights turned on and off.
[right][snapback]1061255[/snapback][/right]
Pop the hood on your car, and take a look at how the auto manufacture took some time to abstract cold air from the front of your car. The air cleaner is in front of all the hot objects.
After a run, take a heat gun and check all the locations where you might install the air cleaner. Or better yet while on the dyno, car is running fan’s are on check for hot and cooler locations, this might help for your location.
Looking at your picture it’s hard to tell the best location, but I would say the best location would be in front of the radiator.
Or maybe just a smooth 90deg up, with deflector for the radiator fans.
On a eddy current dyno with the correct soft ware and calibration , you should see a different in torque with just the head lights turned on and off.
[right][snapback]1061255[/snapback][/right]
Thanks hopper... That is exactly the solution I figured best after reading all the replies. Now just have to buy the material and start working on it.
QUOTE
JWB
the outerwear is too coars to filter dust (if it would, the surface area would be way too small). the outerwear is only there that the sand and bigger particles dont stick to the (oiled) filter.
the outerwear is too coars to filter dust (if it would, the surface area would be way too small). the outerwear is only there that the sand and bigger particles dont stick to the (oiled) filter.
Spooner, Once again I was not thinking rationally before typing. You are correct...
While on the k&n topic, anyone still using the factory mass air flow sensor on a GM engine should occasionally clean the sensor, oil and dirt stick to it and alter the readings. 
QUOTE(JWB @ Jul 10 2005, 10:58 AM)
QUOTE(hopper @ Jul 10 2005, 09:36 AM)
JWB
Pop the hood on your car, and take a look at how the auto manufacture took some time to abstract cold air from the front of your car. The air cleaner is in front of all the hot objects.
After a run, take a heat gun and check all the locations where you might install the air cleaner. Or better yet while on the dyno, car is running fan’s are on check for hot and cooler locations, this might help for your location.
Looking at your picture it’s hard to tell the best location, but I would say the best location would be in front of the radiator.
Or maybe just a smooth 90deg up, with deflector for the radiator fans.
On a eddy current dyno with the correct soft ware and calibration , you should see a different in torque with just the head lights turned on and off.
[right][snapback]1061255[/snapback][/right]
Pop the hood on your car, and take a look at how the auto manufacture took some time to abstract cold air from the front of your car. The air cleaner is in front of all the hot objects.
After a run, take a heat gun and check all the locations where you might install the air cleaner. Or better yet while on the dyno, car is running fan’s are on check for hot and cooler locations, this might help for your location.
Looking at your picture it’s hard to tell the best location, but I would say the best location would be in front of the radiator.
Or maybe just a smooth 90deg up, with deflector for the radiator fans.
On a eddy current dyno with the correct soft ware and calibration , you should see a different in torque with just the head lights turned on and off.
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Thanks hopper... That is exactly the solution I figured best after reading all the replies. Now just have to buy the material and start working on it.
QUOTE
JWB
the outerwear is too coars to filter dust (if it would, the surface area would be way too small). the outerwear is only there that the sand and bigger particles dont stick to the (oiled) filter.
the outerwear is too coars to filter dust (if it would, the surface area would be way too small). the outerwear is only there that the sand and bigger particles dont stick to the (oiled) filter.
Spooner, Once again I was not thinking rationally before typing. You are correct...
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.....there are no stupid Q`s
maybe some stupid answers sometimes
Think the 90 would interfere with the flow of air and negate any gains in HP?
I think the correct 90deg would work fine.
After you fabricate the intake you could flow it on a bench to see if it meets the engines requirements.
After you fabricate the intake you could flow it on a bench to see if it meets the engines requirements.
Cliff at UMP told me that a 90 is equal to 4' of tubing in restriction. 
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