yeah i have one selling it for 500.00 to recoup from the engine up grade

Dunno sorry, I was just looking at docs site and didnt see the 110 kit anymore....

Dunno sorry, I was just looking at docs site and didnt see the 110 kit anymore....

ooops was on the front page hahah, I just know if you install this stuff it will smoke a stocker....


http://www.dratv.com/reofbka11kit.html

Ok Kiddie's here they are


Hope I don't get busted for spammin

[attachmentid=36586]

These engines are the real deal

[attachmentid=36587]

I can't freegin wait to get this in my 70

[attachmentid=36588]

Gonna be some rippin 70's at 13.5 next season

[attachmentid=36589]

[attachmentid=36590]

[attachmentid=36591]

Nice lookin carb

[attachmentid=36592]

nice looking elec start to go along with the kick start, but unfortunately you can't use the kick star as it will hit the rear tire
[attachmentid=36593]

Stuff that comes with: CDI, Coil, Regulator, some relay thing that I haven't figured out yet, wire harness
[attachmentid=36595]

Hoping to get this baby installed this sat.
Of course I'll take pics etc along the way

Stay tuned.......

be funny if my 70 is still faster hahah

Its a seloniod switch,motor should make ya rip along good

20mm carb?

that looks like the one I have, make sure you bought the right jets

tres..if it works out, and a second buy is made, please let me know, I might jump in.

yeah I was thinking of getting the wife one, she would prefer the electric start, I am waiting till I hear about the install

I put one in my minbike, wroked out good - the little battery for the electric starter does not hold up well though, and the e. starter takes a lot of abuse being on the bottom of the motor.....

Ok,
So I couldn't wait till sat
[attachmentid=36744]

Here is the bike in its original ( present form)


Old engine
[attachmentid=36734]

Partial tear down
[attachmentid=36735]
[attachmentid=36736]

Look Ma no engine!
At this point I'm about 35 min. into it.
[attachmentid=36741]
[attachmentid=36740]

New Engine bolted right up
[attachmentid=36742]
[attachmentid=36743]

At this point I'm sure those of you that have ever done an engine swap are
grinning to yourselves and thinking " yeah thats the easy part!"

And your right!

Carb intake is gonna take some modification to work.

Exhaust pipe is gonna need some fabrication ( to clear elec start)
I would have gone with the cobra or BBR setup but I want this thing quiet for midnight neighborhood assaults

I'm going to have to come up with a start/kill switch that also incorporates a run switch to energize the CDI prior to hitting the start button. and also a light switch.
Did I mention these engines are a 12v system vs the stock 6v whitch should broaden the field of useable headlights. I'm thinking something along the lines of a 400EX switch module

Add a battery.

Also probably gone need some disc brakes or at least an extra sole on my vans

I like your plates.

EFFER hahahah

cant wait to see the finished product guy, and yes I imagine lots more people getting in on this.

So since all u guys are dropping in lifan motors does that mean were gonna see some stock parts for sale.

I'm sure there will be....

I'm going to keep my old engine because

A) I'm a packrat
I'm hoping to rebuild it and either upgrade one of my other 70's
or get a 70 with a bad motor and put in it.

Although I will say this, Why rebuild an old 70 engine? To replace the piston, grind the valves, replace the valve seats, hone or bore the cyl, rebuild the carb... and thats not even addressing the lower end and tranny.
It is going to cost at least 200.00 to do the above, for a few more $ you can have a completely new engine with the shift pattern of your liking, Elec start, new 20mm carb and did I mention 37 more cc's? ( actual displacement 107cc)

Now having said that.... I think there is something to say about keeping your 70 stock. Perserving your 70 in its original form is a beautiful thing and I will for sure keep at least one of mine original.

Let me add this while its on my mind:

After removing my gas tank draining it and so forth,
You can't imagine the amount of rust I shook out of it.

These older metal gas tanks are notorious for rusting, and imho the root cause of most peoples problems with runability. If your having problems getting and keeping your 70 running right I'd start with the gas tank,

Definetly install gas filters ( Dr ATV has nice mini ones )
and preferbly Kream or have your tank coated on the inside at a local radiator shop.

Dr Atv also has plastic tanks that will alleviate rust altogether.

I wouldn't even think of dropping one of these new motors in without addressing the gas tank's condition.

My .02

THANKS AGAIN TRES


IT SURE IS PREEEETY


I KNOW IT'S A GIRL THING


CAN'T WAIT TIL I GET IT PAINTED ALSO

Por Nada

Hey Renee I know a guy that does powder coating that lives right by you guys.

He has a very nice workshop behind his house, His name is John he did the pc on my 250r three wheeler. He is very reasonable and super close to you guys

let me know if you want his info.

tres does the intake hook to the left (while sitting on the seat) a little? I know when I put my 20mm i couldnt use the stock intake, Dr had a modified one that fixed the prob

No it goes straight back

Hoping to hear how 42F67N got his to work



looks like he was able to use the stock air box as well

probally had to shave the flanges ( I think he wrote what he had to do somewhere)

I used a z50 manifold that i ported out to match the opening on the stock one that came with the motor so i could put the carb on without having to turn it forward,also the factory airbox did work but i decided on the clamp on instead.

Yep , He posted this one



I didn't think that was the same bike as the intakes etc look different

Also that carb doesn't look as tall as mine.

ooops sorry

yup same 70 i used a z50 manifold that was ported bigger to match the air openings on the manifold that came with the engine the carb bolted right up to the z 50 manifold but the manifold didnt bolt right up to the head i had make the holes a lil oval shaped to each side to gain the fraction of a hair clearance for the bolt to go striaght into the head

you guys could also use this one

http://dragonracingparts.com/18wiwi2.html

Progress

[attachmentid=36956]

42F67N

Do you know which wires go where on the starter relay?

[attachmentid=36957]

I think the starter wires ( red and black fairly large wires) might go to the post's?

With the Yellow/red wire going to the starter switch?

Or maybe the battery Pos. goes to one of the posts with the starter pos going to the other post which would mean that the neg starter wire would go to the chassis (ground)

anyway thought you might have had a similar deal in the engine you did.

I would answer but my name aint 42F67N

Ok , ok

I should have said any inteligent person that has experience
with fast 70/90/110 motors may answer....

But heck that still leaves you out

Zing g g g g g


hahah

Whats the word on these things???? How do they run? Install complications? modifications?

Still working on it....

We only got these things a couple of weeks ago.


So far I've:

Installed the engine into the frame ( bolted right up)
Figured out the intake ( requires buying a different intake then what came with it)
Figured out the wiring ( that was a pain in the a$$)
Kreemed my tank ( thanks stoney, but that stuffs make a huge effen mess)
( didn't really have anything to do with the new motor though)
Extended the footpegs out to allow for the shifter ( i'll post more on that later)

Things I need to do still:
Modify exhaust ( starter is in the way)
install battery
finish wiring

Should have it running within the next couple of weeks....
then it just getting the jetting right
possibly regearing
adding the larger bore and stroker kit
Nos
Turbo
etc.

You know if you strap a rocket to it's ass it will go faster and it's a lot cheaper...

Good Stuff! I thought about mounting the xr50/crf50 mount and peg setup on these. I think that they're set farther back than the 70's which curve towards the front of the bike, might give our adult feet some room to shift easier. Just a thought

I put the Kick Start 4-Speed MANUAL Trans Lifan 110 in my CT70
(screw you EsHO, just 'cause you can't ride on 2-wheels)
And I'll tell ya what, I'm really enjoy'n the heck outta it! Waaaay better than the stok 70cc's that were pulling my butt through the washes last season. I've even been riding it to work (6 miles) every day and once I fine tune the gear ratios I'll be set. Does about 50mph, but I think I can get a few more outta it.
REALLY want the 120 for the ATC70 though! (and one for the CT)
Guy down the street has the auto, I like the manual better.

Just post or email if you have problems with the wires, I can probably help you out. That was the biggest hurdle with mine.

CHECK YOUR voltage regulator, mine only puts out a bit over 6 volts, not the 12 stamped on the damn thing I have not gotten around to getting another one.

Hey Josh good to hear from you.

Well , Got her done today.

I still have some fine tuning and plan on removing the exhaust, grab bar and some other stuff to paint.
But wanted to make sure it all worked before I went to painting it.

Thing kicks ass.

Electric start is ultra cool


Engine hums like a baby and with the stock exhaust is quiet as a mouse.

Anyway heres some pic's....


Hmmmm wonder what this wierd contraption is

[attachmentid=37895]


Left side
[attachmentid=37898]

Right side
[attachmentid=37899]

Hey now that looks just like a 400ex switch module
[attachmentid=37900]


looks like a fairly sturdy grab bar, guy might want to add a flag
mount before he paints it.
[attachmentid=37901]

Oh yea and Josh you are right the electrical was one of the hardest
things to do. I'm an eff'n expert at it now though

Theres alot of stuff to it but after riding it this afternoon I gotta say...

it was worth it. And I have to disagree on the manual clutch...
what hand ya gonna hold your in?

Cool you got her going but what's up with this



Why did you mount the battery so high and did you remove the frame support inside the frame???

Mounted it high to miss the chain tensioner, and so I could adjust the chain without removing the battery.

Also I didn't like how tight a fit the battery was in there.

Plus, made a good place to mount the starter relay.

And yes I gently removed that frame support....
It was only structural anyway

good job tres, cant wait to race you

Thanks, Me neither (cant wait to race)

This ain't Tom's 90

yeah but I left that 90 in the dust and your is only 17more cc's, I think it will be close...

keep thinkin that

is that the smallest battery you cpuld find?

as a realiable battery yes.

let me know if you find something smaller, Jack at Beatrice concured with me that this was a good battery to go with, He doesn't presently have them on his site but said he could get em. around 50.00

YTX9-BS if my memory is correct

this battery:

http://www.batterywholesale.com/battery-st...tml?prodID=2992

may work, and is about 1 1/4 in. shorter in height

my only concern is that it only has 90 CCA ( cold cranking amps )
vs the YTX9-BS 120 CCA

but at 1 1/4 in shorter you could probably get away without rigging the battery as I did.

You would still need to remove the battery to adjust the chain and the width is very tight.

if you could get by with 45CCA this would be perfect:
http://www.batterywholesale.com/battery-st...tml?prodID=2988

just not sure the 45 CCA would cut it.

Ouch hits a guys bike when it's down...

yeah tres whats up with that