Im planning to do the brake lines and clutch this week and was wondering if you guys have any tips or suggestions for a first timer.

I am running the CNC pedal set with Jamar rear discs.

A few questions I have are, what do I do for a pressure switch? Is there an inline one available or do I need to make one from a chunk of alum. and tap it for a stock VW one?

Also, where is a good place for T-fittings and hardlines? Just any old auto parts store or?

Lastly, I was thinking of doing Braided lines from the pedals to hardlines so I can adjust the pedals easily and then run the hardlines to the back torsion tube with short braided flex lines and finish it with hardline down the arms to the caliper. and Using another braised steel flex line to the slave cylinder. Sound right?

Also, where can I get the trick billet double line clamps? Hot rod shop or?

Thanks-

You can buy the T fittings that will go in the hard line that has the tapped hole for the pressure sensor. I bought most of the hardline fittings at NAPA. They have a good selection of what is needed. There is an additional fitting that you will need that will connect the -3 braided lines to the hard line. It is easy to do. The hard part is the 45 degree flair that is needed for the hard line. It takes a little patience to keep them from leaking.

Any buggy shop should have all this also.

as far as the lines go , the best way is to buy bulk braded brake line so you can cut & put your own fittings on. Steel line in the middle is fine i would use stainless line myself but the only way to flair it is with a flute flairing tool but stainless is very durable. If you are in AZ call Foddrill Fabriction & talk to Denny he can hook you up with everything you need. Not the cheepest in town but is the best in knowing what you need & having it in stock .

CNC makes an inline switch in both metric and inverted flare. They also make the flex-rigid adapter for your adjustable pedals. Comes with a port block and lines.

Kartek is somewhat close and they’ll have both. I don’t know any other buggy shops in your area.

10-4 on Napa for the hard line and fittings. They also have the bubble flare tools.

Does anyone use plain 45º single flare for brakes? I’m tired of doing the bubble flare and inverted flares!

Unfortunately the tool I have is the double flare. It is a pain. I have seen tools in the racing catalogs that you buy that make the 37 degree flare. The same flare as AN fittings.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/pagi.../qx/Product.htm

That's what I meant. The 37degree. I don't think the brake pressures are high enough to need the inverted 45.

I would think the 37 degree would be fine and less fittings required. Unfortunately the smaller brass fittings that I have found require the 45 degree flare. If I build another car it might be worth buying the 37 degree tool to get rid of adapters that you have to use between steel braided and the hard line. It would be cleaner and a lot less of a pain.

build your own hard lines. i have the 37 deg tool and a tube bender you can borrow.

here is where i got all my supplys

http://www.gandjaircraft.com/

If you just do the 45 degree flair and tighten it down on a steel 37 degree end it will conform and work fine. I tighten mine down on a steel fitting before I use it on the aluminum bulkhead fitting. I did all mine that way and have no leaks on the -3 to hardline bulkhead fittings for both the clutch and brakes.

Summit has everything you should need except hardline, which you can get from NAPA. Cut, fit and make your own.

Sweet, that is good to know.

in that picture it looks like the hard line is rubbing on the drive flange

OK, Im not real familiar with the different flares and all that, Thanks for the offer to borrow the tools scotty, You going to be around tonight? Let me know and I will try and swing by your place for a Brake line lesson.....

Thanks

Make your bends with copper tubing first then when you get it the way you want it copy it with the tubing you are going to use. Then you can straighten out the copper tubing and re use it. With rigid stainless you only single flair it then Earl's or Ron's Racing makes a nut with sleeve that supports the tube.
www.ronsfuel.com
www.earls.co.uk
DON~~~

give me a call later tonight i will be around

Don't do like I did and foget to put the screw tips on before you flair the ends. Stupid I know, but I am sure I am not the only one to do it.