Its best to use a tank that you are going to paint later or don't care about the finnish
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Do they sell it in 5 gallon cans, because this would be great for our pump station tanks on our toyhaulers..Get rid of the rusty/ orange water that comes out with every first gallon..On my attitude toyhauler i noticed the tank is stainless but they used regular steel rod to weld the seems, tank looks great but every weld on the tank is rusted. ..my buddys WW tank completely rusted through on his and lost about 20 gallons of gas..WW did nothing to help him, a local radiator shop completely cleaned it out for him and coated the inside of it, no more problems since and it only cost him 100.00
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Is there anyway to remove it from the tank?
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Is there anyway to remove it from the tank?
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A lot of you guys have heard about kreeming a gas tank and really don’t know what it entails.
I recently did a couple of tanks and made some notes to share with you.

The whole idea of kreeming a tank is to prevent any future rust from building up in the tank. You can buy “KREEM” at just about any motorcycle parts store. “KREEM” is a three part method to remove rust and line metal fuel tanks to prevent any future rusting. Below is a picture of the kit... 

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Step 1 = Remove the tank from the bike and remove any valves and petcock, On the ATC70 you won't have any of these. you will just have the two fuel lines protruding from the bottom of the tank. CAP THESE OFF...
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Step 2 = Wash out the excess debris with HOT soapy water. If the tank is badly rusted (like the picture below) then you may want to add stones or nuts and bolts to shake loose any excess rust.
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After a good washing with saopy water, the water may come out look like this...
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Before you start kreeming the tank, you may want to purchase a cheap turkey pan to catch any overflow of chemicals you will be using in the process. Here is a picture of the pan I used.
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Step 3 =  In the kit you will find a large bottle of “tank prep A” poor this bottle into the tank and top off tank with warm water. Leave this solution in the tank until all rust is gone and the inside of the tank is “etched” with a dull grey finish.
The amount of time will depend on the amount of rust in the tank. Tanks with little to no rust will be “etched” in as little as 4 hours. Extremely rusted tanks will take as long as 24 hours. 
When using “tank prep A” DO NOT cap off the tank and allow pressure to build up.
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Step 4 = Drain solution after the tank has been sufficiently “etched” to a dull grey finish. When draining solution, poor into a PLASTIC container for later use. IF satisfied ALL rust has been removed, proceed to step 5. If not, poor solution back into tank until rust is gone and tank is “etched” to your satisfaction.
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Step 5 = Flush tank with clean water until rinse water no longer foams and all traces of “tank prep” are removed and remove all excess water. Rinse tank with “tank prep B” solution and shake to make sure the solution has made contact with all metal surfaces. Drain out ALL “tank prep B”.

VERY IMPORTANT STEP : at this point on the ATC70 gas tank you want to remove the plugs blocking the fuel lines and replace those with a wire of the same diameter as the open holes. Feed these wire completely into the fuel tank, this will leave openings for fuel to flow after the KREEM has been placed into the tank and has set up. Forgetting to do this will render the tank useless.
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Step 6 = IMMEDIATELY add the “kreem fuel tank liner”
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add fuel tank liner and slowly move tank around so that the solution coats the entire inner surface. You should have excess liquid after coating, allow to sit for 8-10 minutes then again slowly moved tank around to re-coat the tank. Repeat this step until the tank has the desired amount of coating. DO NOT allow tank liner to pool up and sit in one area of tank. Drain excess solution back into it's bottle for later use. Let tank stand to dry in a well ventilated area for at least 24 hours. For faster drying time you may us LOW pressure air from a compressor. After the job is done your tank should look something like this...
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Hey Tom, you show two different tanks in the pictures, did you do two of them?

How hard was it not to get on the paint?

Could I tape off the tank with plastic, or would this stuff eat through it?

I've got to do the tank I just did for my wife's 70, the damn thing has two small pin holes and some idiot tried to put some tar like crap in it. Now it's leaking that crap all over the bike

Sorry I'm so late in responding on this.

I've done 4 tank so far and you can use tape to keep the kreem off the paint, but if the kreem does get on the paint well you're effed then because it will mess it up. Also if you kreem a nice tank you may see that the paint fogs up, if this happens just wax the tank and it should be fine.

I don't know what they would have used to keep it from leaking that would look like tar, you just may have to take the tank down to a radiator shop and have it cleaned out. If you are thinking of kreeming the tank after that then apply some tape over the pin holes and kreem away, the tape will keep the kreem from leaking out and when it's hard the tape will keep the outside flush for painting.

sorry to burst all y`alls bubbles but part of my job involves coating gas tanx on cars and trux , the liner that i see that lifts the most and fails miserably is Kreem , Red Kote is the name of the liner you should use , clean it with M.E.K (methyl ethyl ketone ) first .

Kreem is a

sorry to burst all y`alls bubbles but part of my job involves coating gas tanx on cars and trux , the liner that i see that lifts the most and fails miserably is Kreem , Red Kote is the name of the liner you should use , clean it with M.E.K (methyl ethyl ketone ) first .

Kreem is a

sorry to burst all y`alls bubbles but part of my job involves coating gas tanx on cars and trux , the liner that i see that lifts the most and fails miserably is Kreem , Red Kote is the name of the liner you should use , clean it with M.E.K (methyl ethyl ketone ) first .

Kreem is a

WARNING!!!!

I have used the tank kreem on motorcycles with mixed results. A percentage of them evenually have some of the coating seperate and plug the fuel system! I won't use a product that may create a new problem.

I belong to a large motorcycle chat group, and also hear from other local ebthusiasts, and I am not the only one who has had this happen.

The "word" in the hobby is that a similar product called "POR15" is more reliable.

...and don't tell me it is because it was done incorrectly. I have a couple years of college, 40 years of experience with paint chemicals, and a clock. I can follow written directions.

Where can I find Red Kote or the POR15?