What do i need? and what exact wires go where? there is a power wire fro mthe battery that goes to the solenoid, then a fat ground strap, another smaller power wire for the ignition switch. What terminal on the solenoid does the power and ground straps go to?

On a bug the ground usually goes to one of the starter mounting bolts.

The positive cable goes to the big lug on the solenoid.

The small wire goes to the small tab on the solenoid.

You should have a large gage wire coming from your battery to the solenoid and another large gage wire that goes from there to the alt. They connect to the same terminal then there is a smaller wire that goes on the 1/4 inch. slip connector, that one goes to the ignition. The wires should hook up to the new starter just like the old one. I can’t help you with the ground strap. I have had 6 vw’s and I can’t ever remember seeing a ground strap on the start.. It should be grounded via bolting to the trans. Now there should be a ground strap running from the nose cone to the pan as the stock rubber trans mounts prevent grounding via the bolts.

Hope that helps. If not bring it over with a 12 pack and well get ya hooked up

I recommend useing a sawzall to get the fenders off makes it easier to get to the starter that way.

WELL I FIGURED OUT THE WHERE TH WIRES GO. THANKS FOR THAT

NOW WHEN I TURN THE KEY IT MAKES A FUNKY SOUND AND DOESNT CRANK RIGHT. WHAT DO I DO?

Not sure what your definition of funky is. Is the battery in go shape, are the cable clamps clean and tight, Can you turn the motor over by hand (with a socket wrench on the alt pulley). What happens when you jump the ignition switch(screw driver on the solenoid large wire to the small wire).

Like I said bring it over with a 20 pack and we’ll get ya going

Is the starter bushing in good shape?

Is it the proper bushing?

There's a bushing for 6v starters.

A bushing for 12v starters.

A special bushing for using a 12v starter on a tranny that was designed for a 6v starter.

And another special bushing for using a 6v starter on a tranny that was designed for a 12v starter.

If that bushing is worn then the starter won't work reliably if at all. Been there done that.

That's why I like the bus starters better...they're self supporting and don't need the bushing same as the hi-torque. Which is why they were the only choice on my rail since the hole the bushing goes in was so wallowed out from when the bushing wore out that it was impossible to install a new bushing

30 pack..

Well The starter is not the problem.

I turned over the motor from the alternator and it gets to one spot where the belt slips on the crank but eventually it will grab enough to get through it. I put a wrench on the crank pulley and turned the motor over and it turns fine until one spot where it gets really hard to turn over. Im guessing it needs to be taken apart and have the pistons and possibly the jugs replaced.

How much does it run to get new jugs and pistons, and where? What size pistons would be best for the motor? should i get new jugs at the time? I know i need to tear it down and check it out first, i have a friend that might do it for me.

How long has it been sitting?

Pull the plugs, check for oil, rust, pieces..

30 pack.. you will be dead.. what good will you do trying to help him when you will need the help....

i have no clue, ill ask the previous owner.

DEAD? It looks like I got this one right (unfortunately for SHOCKER) and that was after I got my drink on with a few Big Gulp Captains and Coke. The Beer isn’t for while I’m working on a car, it’s for after the work is done and the B.S.ing with Bro’s begins.

You seem to be a bit to critical, come on by with a couple of 30 packs and I’ll help ya lighten up brother.

where is a good place to get new pistons and jugs? I found some at moore parts for $90.

90 bucks sounds about right. I remember paying about that much to far back to say. Cima’s or NPR where the brands back then. Not to sure what’s in your area. Best bet is go up to the manufacturers links in this forum and see what is closest to you.

i figured since they are so cheap i might as well get something a little bigger.

Heres what the add says:

85.5x69 cast mahle-$90
87x69 cast mahle-$142
85.5x69 forged mahle-$175
87x69 forged mahle-$195
90.5 forged mahle-$195
92 forged mahle---$195
94 forged mahle---$200

Whats the exact sizes of these and what would be best for my motor. The motor is basically stock besides some small stuff. I know bigger pistons and cylinders wouldnt perform to their true potential unless i had some bigger carbs. So on a guy with a tight budget and a stock motor should i just go with the 85.5x69 cast mahle or the 87x69 cast mahle? Also what cc's would my motor be with both of these?

How can you be working on your rail motor when you know the dirtbags with your truck might be caught today...

Im not, im waiting for a call.

Chart for VW cc vs. bore/stroke

If your only looking to take the motor down to swap out the pistons and cylinders and NOT split the case, then your going to have to stay with the same outside diameter jugs you have. If they are 85.5 x 69 (a 1600) then if they still make them, you can get 88's that will slip in but they are the same jug as the 85.5 with a thinner side wall. Basically a bored out 85.5 jug. It’s up to you but if you go bigger and your not talking much then you might have to re-jet the carb. You also will be putting more power (once again not much) to the internals of the motor. For the potential headache and almost unnoticeable power increase I would go with the same size cylinders as your taking out.

Now if your splitting the case the options are only limited to how much you want to spend.

I want to spend the least amount of money possible, lol. I have other stuff i want to do to it like a roll cage, pedals, seats, lights, and front tires, lol.

I guess ill go with the 85.5x69 cast mahle.

What would be some good cheap upgrades to this new beast? Im not looking at jumping the olds double or breaking any land speed records. Also how well will this beast do in the dunes with the stock motor and 31" bfg mud terrains? Should i buy some desert tracks?

Sounds like as he is rotating the engine around he is coming to the compression stroke on whatever cylinder and that is why it gets hard to turn. Then it gets easy, then... If that's what's happeing there is no need to do anything accept look at the starter again. It sounds like it has good compression.

LovesDunes makes a good point. To make sure it’s not the compression that’s hanging things up. Take out all the spark plugs then turn the motor over. If It is still hanging up then ya you have problems, if not back to the starter.

It is a lot easier to figure out in person, but I’ll keep trying. The only reason your pistons would be hanging up would be rust, some WD 40 sprayed into the spark plug holes and keep turning the motor over might fix the problem. If you have some broken rings ( I have seen this ) your pistons will hang up. Also if the motor has over heated a lot or for a long time the cylinders could have warped causing the pistons to hang up ( also a problem I have seen ).

I would pull the plugs first and make sure you have some serious internal problem before you pull the motor.

I'd be willing to come over after work and listen if you want.

thanks for the offer, but ill try some more thing like spraying a little wd40in there when i get home before you have to come over.

I have already pulled the plugs and its still the same. Ill try the wd40 but if that doesnt work ill tear off the heads.

How hard is it to actually rebuild a VW motor? I will hopefully just be changing the jugs and pistons which is easy to do. I dont want to mess up any of the timing which is what im worried about. I have 2 VW books on rebuilding them so i shouldnt run into any problems on not knowing what to do.

If you pulled the plugs out and it is still hitting a hard spot then sounds more like you have a problem. Pop the valve covers off and make sure all the rocker arms are moving and the springs are still keeping contact with the arms.

Sounds more like you have a rust ridge in the cylinder but best to check all external tells before tearing the motor down. If it is a rust ridge you might be able to get away with honing the jugs and replacing the rings. But is you choos this route make SURE the jugs are not pitted where the rust was. Just trying to give you a cheap alternative.

it doesnt have spark, hop-efully throwinrox has a good coil sitting around i can atleast borrow to see if it will start and then i can go from there. He also said something sounded funny when turning it over, like it was the flywheel. I have 2 spare flywheels and thats not hard to throw that in.