1. What size jets should I start at in a mild port and piped 250r. I guess there is the main then the choke? jet what are the 2 sizes I should start with.
2. Should I replace the rear axle nut with a locking nut?
3. Front levers and perches what is a nice looking pair to clean the handle bars up?
4. Foot pegs who makes the best pair.
5. Plastics recomendations.
Doc
Full Version: 250r Plus other ?s
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| 1. What size jets should I start at in a mild port and piped 250r. I guess there is the main then the choke? jet what are the 2 sizes I should start with. |
If you're using a stock carb, start with the stock jets. Do some good plug chops. You'll know which way to go on jets from there. Main jets are pretty cheap at Honda dealer; about $4 each.
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| 2. Should I replace the rear axle nut with a locking nut? |
If you're taking it apart, yes. Otherwise, leave it alone.
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| 3. Front levers and perches what is a nice looking pair to clean the handle bars up? |
I run CR style. You can go to any parts store and check out what you like. I, personally, am going to switch my clutch lever to the Raptor lever; it's short yet works with very little effort.
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| 4. Foot pegs who makes the best pair. |
I dunno. I run stockers. Lots of people just chrome those if they're straight.
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| 5. Plastics recomendations. |
OEM if you can afford it.
1. Not real sure on a 250cc
2. If you want to spend the money. Otherwise snug the stocker up and wrap in electrical tape (yes it works!)
3. The CR perch is nice. Or get an ez-pull type clutch lever.
4. IMS/Roll Design are by far the sweetest pegs. Bad news is they are $240 a pair
5. Full Bore!
2. If you want to spend the money. Otherwise snug the stocker up and wrap in electrical tape (yes it works!)
3. The CR perch is nice. Or get an ez-pull type clutch lever.
4. IMS/Roll Design are by far the sweetest pegs. Bad news is they are $240 a pair
5. Full Bore!
Doc I think the stock jet was a 150. Sense you have a pipe try a 155 to start and get the next two sizes up from there. I got a lot of work done on my bike so I run a 180...
Unless you plan on replacing the axle or bearing don't touch it. I painted mine just so it wouldn't back off...
I have the long stock ones on my bike just because I like the extra leverage. With the shorter ones your hands can get a little tired on long rides but you wouldn't have that problem.
I am going with the IMS/ROLL design pegs myself. They are a little pricey but they are also twice as wide as the stock ones, which is great if you are like me and don't like riding with boots on...
Stock plastics are good as long as you cut them up a little to prevent stress cracks. The Full Bore are good too and you can get them in different colors and also custom painted if you like mountain dew. I always go with stock myself because of the shine and finish they have...
Doc if want to ask me any questions about the 250r just E-mail me. Also I have a lot of stock parts left over from my rebuild if you need any...
Unless you plan on replacing the axle or bearing don't touch it. I painted mine just so it wouldn't back off...
I have the long stock ones on my bike just because I like the extra leverage. With the shorter ones your hands can get a little tired on long rides but you wouldn't have that problem.
I am going with the IMS/ROLL design pegs myself. They are a little pricey but they are also twice as wide as the stock ones, which is great if you are like me and don't like riding with boots on...
Stock plastics are good as long as you cut them up a little to prevent stress cracks. The Full Bore are good too and you can get them in different colors and also custom painted if you like mountain dew. I always go with stock myself because of the shine and finish they have...
Doc if want to ask me any questions about the 250r just E-mail me. Also I have a lot of stock parts left over from my rebuild if you need any...
OK the plastics on the bike are coated with plastic renewel which makes it look like they were painted when it starts getting older. I will have to scrb them down with steelwool to get them clean.
The carb is new but need all the stock settings air screw pilot etc.
The right foot peg is usable but smashed on the iside so thats why I need replacements.
Is there supposed to be a brace from the head to the frame mine has the hooking point on the head but no brace.
I found some great perches and levers out of ok by RTC and ordered them.
Does the over flow resovoir need to be hooked up for the radiator??
The carb is new but need all the stock settings air screw pilot etc.
The right foot peg is usable but smashed on the iside so thats why I need replacements.
Is there supposed to be a brace from the head to the frame mine has the hooking point on the head but no brace.
I found some great perches and levers out of ok by RTC and ordered them.
Does the over flow resovoir need to be hooked up for the radiator??
Doc if you want the plastic to look good again then steelwool the plastic and redo them with plastic renew. If done right they will look good for a couple of years just follow the instructions to the letter.
Turn the airscrew all the way in and then out to one of the settings below depending on the year of your quad.
year......................86.........87.........88.........89
main jet.................150.......152.......158.......155
needle position........4th.......4th........3rd........4th groove
( with the needle pointed down ward, the top groove is #1 pos.)
airscrew position.....1 7/8....1 7/8......2 3/4....1 1/2 turns out
these are all stock settings for 0 to 5,000 ft
You can get used footpegs from E-Bay for 45 bucks.
There is a brace that goes to both sides of the frame just under the gas tank and to the head but it's not necessarily to be there. I have a coolhead on my quad that doesn't have a mounting point for the brace to hook up to and I have never had any problems in that area. besides there are 4 other mounting points on the motor...
I would use the over flow if possible. If the bike gets to hot the excess fluid has a place to go. Better in the bottle were it can be used then on the ground or on a hot pipe...The bottle can tell you allot on how your engine is performing. If you plug up the exit hole at the radiator cap you stand a chance of blowing your head gasket when the pressure starts to build in the cooling system. That is a BAD thing...
Turn the airscrew all the way in and then out to one of the settings below depending on the year of your quad.
year......................86.........87.........88.........89
main jet.................150.......152.......158.......155
needle position........4th.......4th........3rd........4th groove
( with the needle pointed down ward, the top groove is #1 pos.)
airscrew position.....1 7/8....1 7/8......2 3/4....1 1/2 turns out
these are all stock settings for 0 to 5,000 ft
You can get used footpegs from E-Bay for 45 bucks.
There is a brace that goes to both sides of the frame just under the gas tank and to the head but it's not necessarily to be there. I have a coolhead on my quad that doesn't have a mounting point for the brace to hook up to and I have never had any problems in that area. besides there are 4 other mounting points on the motor...
I would use the over flow if possible. If the bike gets to hot the excess fluid has a place to go. Better in the bottle were it can be used then on the ground or on a hot pipe...The bottle can tell you allot on how your engine is performing. If you plug up the exit hole at the radiator cap you stand a chance of blowing your head gasket when the pressure starts to build in the cooling system. That is a BAD thing...
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