Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: Suspension Setup
GlamisDunes.com > Sandrail Forums > Sandrail Tech
rerod
OK I have a Buckshot X5 that weights "about" 2700lbs, the front setup is 2.5 with bypass. Now my problem is the way it is setup now, it rides very nice through all conditions but when I ride a wheelie and the rail is "about" straight up, when it comes down it will always bottom out but only when its all the way up. Now my question is, I dont want to effect the ride quality but I dont want to bottom out either. The top spring is 12x500 and the bottom is 14x600. Should I go with a bottom spring of 14x650 or move the collar down farther or turn the compresion up on the bypass. These are some pics of the setup now. And it is winter here so I cant test anything untill April.
trawak
[quote name='trawak' date='Jan 7 2007, 04:50 PM' post='2062359']
Is that a pic of the car before the ride heith was set? Its strange to see no preload on the springs looks like the collar is all the way to the top. The spring should have a pre load of 1.75 to 2.0 inches. Also have you messed with the compression adjustment on the bypasses? The adjustments on the bypasses are for fine tunning if you bury "run the allen rod all the the way in" NO BUENO. means the shock needs a different different valving stack which can be maniplulated hunderds of different ways.
I would first look to the pre load on your springs, make certain your set at proper ride height if the colar is indeed all the way up make that adjustment and take her for a ride.
You can also adjust your rate nuts "the two nuts that are inside of the spring on the coil carrier shaft. These control the rate at which the heavier spring "lower" come into effect. It looks like you have the stock spring dividers which will wear quickly if your against the heavier spring often, King makes a heavy duty divider "its called machined but dont be fooled its not metal its harder plastic with closer tollerences to the shaft" which lasts much longer.
rerod
No these pics are of it right now. The way you see it in the pic the limiter straps are maxed out with nobody in the car and when two people are in the car it only sags down about 2 inches, thats why I have the springs as loose as they will go. If I tighten the springs down 2" like you say then with two people in the car, the limiter straps are still tight.
PULLMEOUT
Wow, that sure seems like an extraordinarily heavy spring rate up front!

Try moving the rate nut down 1 inch, that should help a bunch.
trawak
QUOTE(rerod @ Jan 7 2007, 06:41 PM) [snapback]2062501[/snapback]

No these pics are of it right now. The way you see it in the pic the limiter straps are maxed out with nobody in the car and when two people are in the car it only sags down about 2 inches, thats why I have the springs as loose as they will go. If I tighten the springs down 2" like you say then with two people in the car, the limiter straps are still tight.

The limet straps may be too short. You should give it a try with the spring compession nut, run it down a inch and see what it does for you.
swark
QUOTE(PULLMEOUT @ Jan 7 2007, 05:58 PM) [snapback]2062523[/snapback]

Wow, that sure seems like an extraordinarily heavy spring rate up front!
Try moving the rate nut down 1 inch, that should help a bunch.



Thats what I was thinking also.... I have a 5 seat car and I think my fronts are 250/350 bugsy2.gif .

.
GoatPoker
Yeah, there could be several things at play here.

I'd start by calling Buckshot. They should have a pretty good starting point.

Soaking up an 8' drop is not what the springs do anyway. This is a job for the compression damping. Add more damping to the bypass.
revenge
Most of the Buckshots we have done suspension on have been way over strung when they come in. The proper way to fix the issues you are having would be to lighten up the springs and then fix the rest of the ride with bypass valving. This will help not only your bottoming issues by improve the ride everywhere else as well. If you are happy with the ride now then you will be even happier later. But, if you don't want to start changing springs, ect, then run the rate nuts down untill they start to become usable and that should cure your bottoming issues for now. Justin
allthrottlenobottle
I had a similar issue we fixed by pluging one of the free bleeds inside the piston. There are three free bleed and we plugged one, htis fixed my bottoming out on big wheelies. igor.gif
GoatPoker
Interesting, there should only be 2 bleed holes in a bypass piston.
PULLMEOUT
QUOTE(allthrottlenobottle @ Jan 8 2007, 09:27 AM) [snapback]2063355[/snapback]

I had a similar issue we fixed by pluging one of the free bleeds inside the piston. There are three free bleed and we plugged one, htis fixed my bottoming out on big wheelies. igor.gif


That should also affect the entire stroke, and not just bottoming.
revenge
QUOTE(PULLMEOUT @ Jan 8 2007, 09:45 AM) [snapback]2063389[/snapback]

QUOTE(allthrottlenobottle @ Jan 8 2007, 09:27 AM) [snapback]2063355[/snapback]

I had a similar issue we fixed by pluging one of the free bleeds inside the piston. There are three free bleed and we plugged one, htis fixed my bottoming out on big wheelies. igor.gif


That should also affect the entire stroke, and not just bottoming.



Typicaly King only leaves one bleed hole open but there are three that can be used in the piston. Opening up bleed holes will make the chop go away but loosen the bump stage. Only recomended on a coil over where there is relatively no bump stage to be affected. Closing up bleed holes will increase the feel of all the chop and small rocks as well as increase the bump stage in a bypass. Using the rate nut will be the easiest fix but proper spring rates and valving are ultimately the correct cure.
gecko trash
your running a 12x500 and a 14x600! Don't worrie about your limit staps,
go to a shorter spring like a 12x500 and 12x600 it sounds to me like your springs are to long. how does the car sit? are the arms "droped out" or are they level? that is a heavy car so you need the extra lb's. post a pic of the whole side of the car, but you do need some preload on your shocks. I don't see depending on your bypasses to do all the work they are just an extra shock with "fine tuning". hope this helps

fix the problem don't cover it up!

My $.02
rerod
Thanks for everybodys help so far. This is a pic of the side.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2012 Invision Power Services, Inc.