1967 Dodge A-100 Hot rod sort of rat rod build thread.

You doing ALL your wiring on paper first??

Yeah, it takes a huge amount of time, but it So much easier when you have a blueprint (wiring diagram) to build from. 👍🏼
 
Well I guess the rocker cover has to come off to get that outer bolt in for the AC compressor. Tomorrow this front drive should be buttoned up and I will put the belt on it. Not going to clamp the hoses down yet because I still have to drop that back in down to put the back tires on. Cooler is blowing nice air and having some fun right now. Starting to really get exciting around here.
 

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Hard to tell in the picture but we started out with an inch and a half hole and I opened it up to almost two and a half inches. That will be one heck of a big harness going through there.
 

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Bought a genuine Holly bracket for the throttle cable. Not too far off from being able to get all the dimensions together and have control cables custom build the throttle cable.
 

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Put the graphic on this morning and my brother killed it. I love it. I don't think photos do it justice how cool it is in person. Mounted the electronics for the electric power steering under the dash above the AC unit. Then the adjustment knob I put on a bracket right under the steering column. I will have to unstrap the 4-point to reach that but usually once those are set you leave it alone. Talked to willwood yesterday and the rod inside the master needs to travel 1.4 in. Even with the pedal up higher than I like it hits the floor so I'm probably going to have to put a pocket in the floor for the pedal to drop into. We had some used 95 lb injectors laying around. Ultrasonic clean them and they seem to be working well so we are going to try them. They might be on the big side trying to get the truck to idle. Worth a try.
 

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Can you drill another hole, in the pedal arm and move the clevis there?

Changing the pedal ratio always makes a huge difference.
 
rivermobster said:
Can you drill another hole, in the pedal arm and move the clevis there?

Changing the pedal ratio always makes a huge difference.
Click to expand...
This is the pedal I have. No changing the pivot point. Also probably going to make a foot box on the left side to bring my foot up I would gues 3". I have been driving with two feet for 45 years so no worries with going back and forth between throttle and brake.
 

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The Wilwood guy said they like the brake pedal to be about 1" higher than the throttle. I am quite a bit higher than that. Plus the brake is mounted left a few inches from what you would normally see. This was all dictated on where I could mount that pedal assembly and master in relation to the custom steering. Hopefully we can get it comfortable for me. 100% custom fit on all of this. Yesterday my wife said "so what if I want to drive it" I just laughed at her.
 
onanysunday said:
This is the pedal I have. No changing the pivot point. Also probably going to make a foot box on the left side to bring my foot up I would gues 3". I have been driving with two feet for 45 years so no worries with going back and forth between throttle and brake.
Click to expand...

Trippy. Definitely not changing the ratio there.

Are you using all Willwood components?
 
rivermobster said:
Trippy. Definitely not changing the ratio there.

Are you using all Willwood components?
Click to expand...
Braking system has two hydraulic systems. Here was the original post when I built that. Can't get the link to post right for some reason. Go back to page 31 and post #614
 
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I had never looked at the full set of build photos for the A108 Dodge Goolsby built van. Thing is absolutely sick. Can only imagine the hours and what that customer spent. I love that rear handmade duct for the rear AC unit. (It has two units) If you click the first pic you can then scroll through them. https://goolsbycustoms.com/builds/matthews-1969-dodge-a-108/
 
onanysunday said:
Braking system has two hydraulic systems. Here was the original post when I built that. Can't get the link to post right for some reason. Go back to page 31 and post #614
Click to expand...

I'm dumb.

I can't figure out how your pedal is going to hook into this? Do have an assembled view?

I'd readjust andloose the .050 if it was me. That's a lot of movement at the actual pedal.

Nice choice using hydroboost. 👍🏼20231128_100854.jpg
 
rivermobster said:
I'm dumb.

I can't figure out how your pedal is going to hook into this? Do have an assembled view?

I'd readjust andloose the .050 if it was me. That's a lot of movement at the actual pedal.

Nice choice using hydroboost. 👍🏼View attachment 122641
Click to expand...
It will be a hydraulic line from the Wilwood master under the dash to the Jeep slave cylinder to the right in the pic. So hydraulic pressure to engage it.
 
onanysunday said:
It will be a hydraulic line from the Wilwood master under the dash to the Jeep slave cylinder to the right in the pic. So hydraulic pressure to engage it.
Click to expand...

You're gonna have to explain that deal to me.

Lack of room I'm guessing?? 🤔
 
rivermobster said:
Pretty ingenious solutions!

Would a bigger piston and line to the slave, give you less pedal throw? 🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...
Good question! Not sure yet. We might bleed all of it and see how the pedal feels before I cut a pedal box into the floor. Right now I am guessing I have at least 1.1-1.2 inches of travel on the Wilwood master. They want to see 1.43 inches.
 
onanysunday said:
Good question! Not sure yet. We might bleed all of it and see how the pedal feels before I cut a pedal box into the floor. Right now I am guessing I have at least 1.1-1.2 inches of travel on the Wilwood master. They want to see 1.43 inches.
Click to expand...

If you're running a braided line between the master and slave, maybe go to 3/16 steel? Eliminate as much play as possible.


No doubt you'll figure it out! 👍🏼
 
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