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Gsxr Short Sand Car Questions

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Heys guys, hoping some of you can give me a little input.

I'm looking at trading my Crawler for a "Short" car.

The Chassis was built 15" longer than normal for the PO.

My questions are.

1. I'm 6' and 280. Will this GSXR 1000 powered rail haul my big butt around? and along the same lines. will I fit????

2. The rear is set up w/ u-joints instead of CV's, any particular reason for this? All of my full sized rails have been CV's w/the exception of my 1st. Ist was a corvair w/a corvair transaxle.

3. This is a loaded question. I realize something is worth what your willing to pay, but on the open market. What are these worth? I've seen them advertised for anywhere from $12,000-$30,000, but are they selling?

I've attached a couple pics so you can see what I'm considering.

I know some of my questions could be answered w/a quick once over, but I'm over 1000 miles away. I'm trying to get my ducks in a row before I burn a bunch of diesel.

thanks in advance.

morepics007.jpg

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1 it will probably be a tight fit. The 1000 should move you around ok

2 I have u joints on my full size car and I like them a lot better than cvs

3 in this market it is in the 15k range but it is hard to say with out more info and seeing it in person.

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that is a nice lokkin buggy!!!!!!!!!! trade! trade! trade! gixxer 1000.........topend hp not much different than busa.big difference is in torke.busa,lot's of low end torke,slower revver,lower redline. gixxer 1000,rev's out fast,higher redline,less bottom end,big time top end rush.will it move you? for sure,you'll have a blast!!!!!!!!!!!!! trade! trade! out with the old,in with the new!!!!!!! :yay:

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Gixxer 1000 motor should do fine, I built a single seater with a 600cc powerplant over 3 years ago that hauled the mail, and it weighed about as much as that 2 seater. You can always swap the motor out later if you want. I run u-joint axles on my busa rails, they do great, have more travel, and are less maintenance. I say do it, prices vary, but it looks like a good deal. the only thing I don't like about those cars is the lack of b-pillars.....

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Thanks for the input. I'm probably 90% sure I'll do the swap. I've got a buddy in Gilbert going over the take a look for me.

Yoshi, you ever been out to the dune in Beaver Ok?

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Thanks for the input. I'm probably 90% sure I'll do the swap. I've got a buddy in Gilbert going over the take a look for me.

Yoshi, you ever been out to the dune in Beaver Ok?

Nope, Little Sahara is the only dunes I ever go to....

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In addition to no B-pillar perhaps you should consider why these cars are so light and what that might mean in the long run.

From what I've seen of Short cars they have small diameter tubing for the front A-arms, probably 1" at best. I don't know the wall thickness or material but they are flimsy looking arms IMO. Where the arms mount to the car - unless this one is unique - uses 3/8 diameter bolts through a bushing that is not carried by crush sleeves. It won't take much pounding at all without causing bent bolts and tabs.

I see that this car has the older style rear suspension. Notice that the forward links are not carried in double-shear where the heims bolt to the frame. Look at the rear axles - there is no plunge! These are just big pieces of tubing with U-joints welded to them!

At 6 foot and 280 you are going to be crowded in this car. You need wider seats and a wider cabin for comfort.

This is a nice looking car and I like the bodywork and all that. However, I learned my lesson with the car that is in my avatar. It began as a Sick Sand Travel car and I had to make some slight changes - like everything - after a few disappointments. My advice is keep looking. It is not worth the hassle you will experience after you plunk down your money.

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As Gene said, the car does have some weak points in the suspension.

The issues are small though, you can beef up the a-arm tubing, since the design is fairly simply to duplicate, and add some bracing to the chassis. The cab may be a bit small for your size like gene said, but the structural issues are easy fix's and shouldn't scare you from the deal if it's a good enough price.

Also, if the rear is set up correctly, the axles don't need any plunge, so that might not be an issue. Just like front suspension, if everything is set up correctly, there is no bumpsteer, but if the control arms are too short or too long, the wheel would toe in or out as it cycles, same thing applies to the rear, only too long or too short of an axle will push or pull on the center of the wheel ,while the mounts cycle their own way, and this is no bueno...

Edited by yoshi

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Thanks for the info guys. This is exactly what I need, the pros and cons. I'm learning as I go here. I'm not scared of some Fab work or dialing in suspension. I just don't want to pay a premium for something I'll spend the next 6 months rebuilding.

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it probabally boil's down to how much money do you have in your rock crawler and how much you could realistically sell it for versus what you could sell this buggy for if it turn's out to just be "not for me" type of thing.good luck!

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I had a buddy go look at it. I'm passing on this one.

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