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Fuel filters 3.5L Honda


wopachop
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Hi all you duners!! Hoping to get this motor fired up before vets. Hasn't started in over 10 years. I see a sticker that says 3PVF-AA5.

They want to go filter, fuel pump, filter. We were about to buy another Bosch F5021, but then wanted to check specs to confirm it can be used on the pressurized side of the pump.

The more i read the more mixed reviews i got about which filters work best upstream vs downstream.

Figured asked on GD and get a solid answer. We have the one bosch F5021 and can use that either upstream or downstream. 

Will (2) Bosch filters become too restrictive? What 2nd filter should we get, if any? 

Also where do most duners buy FPS fittings? 

Any advice on preparing the motor for its first cold start is appreciated too. We drained the coolant and oil. Im happy to lube the cylinder walls however you guys recommend. 

20210927_140017.jpg

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8 minutes ago, Jaybird95 said:

It should be the other way around.

Naw, he's correct.  The pump can handle much larger objects without failure, and restrictions (10μ filters, for example) can cause cavitation.  You also don't want your fine filter as the first filter since it will clog quickly.

Edited by Rockwood
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oh man, here comes a debate.  I have heard it both ways.  My Honda has the smallest before the pump, big after the pump................I have always thought that was weird, but trusted my builder (at least that what was relayed to me)

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48 minutes ago, Cookie said:

oh man, here comes a debate.  I have heard it both ways.  My Honda has the smallest before the pump, big after the pump................I have always thought that was weird, but trusted my builder (at least that what was relayed to me)

You want the least amount of restriction to the pump as possible. 

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4 hours ago, Cookie said:

oh man, here comes a debate.  I have heard it both ways.  My Honda has the smallest before the pump, big after the pump................I have always thought that was weird, but trusted my builder (at least that what was relayed to me)

So both ways, I don't run a filter after the pump. Been 4 years and no issues.

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12 hours ago, richard h said:

So both ways, I don't run a filter after the pump. Been 4 years and no issues.

I was told to always run a filter after the pump in case the pump starts to fail and to stop any pump pieces from going into the motor...............

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27 minutes ago, Cookie said:

I was told to always run a filter after the pump in case the pump starts to fail and to stop any pump pieces from going into the motor...............

Probably not a bad idea, just never done or had any issues. Of course now that it's been spoken about------

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2 minutes ago, richard h said:

Probably not a bad idea, just never done or had any issues. Of course now that it's been spoken about------

If I was only going to run one filter I would run after the pump. A fuel pump is always cheaper than a motor. Pre pump filter only protects the pump. 

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Finer filter after pump regular filter before pump.I ust one of those boschs for post post on my honda easy to find easy to get.My pre filter is a small holley that i can clean out the screen,

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks everyone. Do you guys run a check valve after the pump? We have this pump that comes with a check valve. I see that Kartek has 2 options. 

1. Adapter  that uses a fitting. Around $50. 

2. Phenix Industries  complete check valve $40. 

The pump came with a AN-6 fitting that would work just fine if there is a benefit to omitting the check valve for this type of application. 

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I dont run a check valve on my setup, but now thinking about it probably would not be a bad idea as I have a ton of bleed off one the pump is turned off.

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21 hours ago, wopachop said:

Thanks everyone. Do you guys run a check valve after the pump? We have this pump that comes with a check valve. I see that Kartek has 2 options. 

1. Adapter  that uses a fitting. Around $50. 

2. Phenix Industries  complete check valve $40. 

The pump came with a AN-6 fitting that would work just fine if there is a benefit to omitting the check valve for this type of application. 

Helpful, but not necessary unless your pump is above fuel level since it would only prevent fuel pressure from backing up past the pump when off.  Most ECUs prime the pump when turned on anyway to combat this. 

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Thanks again. I watched a video on AN fittings and have a decent idea how they work. Can PTFE hose ends be changed out? If yes, should i reuse the existing collar because its already seated into the hose? 

Plan was to buy a 90* adapter. But ideally it would fit better if i could change out that hose end to a 45* or 90* AN-8. 

 

Screenshot_20211015-112419_Gallery.jpg

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  • 5 weeks later...

Got everything together and the car wont start on its own, but it did fire up for 3 seconds on starting fluid. I thought maybe its a bad fuel pressure regulator. The old unit does hold vacuum but we bought a new one anyway. 

Its was around $120 and friends in glamis last weekend are saying its probably not the pressure regulator. Most people like Brian Saxton were saying its likely bad injectors from sitting too long with old cali ethanol treated gasoline. (stabil was often used.....car still sat for 5 years)

What would you guys do next? Is it possible to have a bad fuel pressure regulator that holds vacuum? When i shake the old regulator i can hear a little piece jiggling inside. Not sure if that proves the unit is not seized up internally. I dont own a fuel pressure tester. Happy to rent one from vato zone if thats the next step. 

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I take the injectors out and turn over, there is a little needle in them. Take a small punch and push the needle, it will stick after sitting for some time. Simple fix.

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Maybe try some seafoam. But in reality, if it really sat for 5 years, I'd just pull the injectors, clean them to check that box off that they are not the problem.

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Got today to figure this thing out. Kiddos gonna be bummed if its not ready for tday trip. 

New regulator didnt work. Just like everyone predicted. I did notice the dash display has what i think is fuel pressure. As the motor cranks it goes from 1 to around 20. Didnt start. Tried a squirt of starting fluid and it worked. Stunk up the garage im airing it out now. 

Is that normal for every single injector to completely fail? We wonder why its not even coughing and stuttering.

Any brand of injectors to avoid? We usually go to Orileys for Ford diesel parts. Where should we go for Honda parts? 

Thanks a bunch for all the advice. 

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I had a few clogged injectors once. I pulled the fuel rail off with the injectors intact. Removed the injector wiring harness. Jumped the fuel pump hot. Then I took a mini 12v battery and connected it to an injector 1 at a time. You’ll know which ones are firing or that are clogged. I was able to clean out the clogged ones. 

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