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Purchasing A Car With A 2d?

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2 full season in three years with a stock LS1 and 2D. As many have said it is all about how you drive. I don't run woops hard and I let off the gas and push in the clutch when I get air. If the LS motor is stock they don't seem to have as many issues.

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I think all the current transaxles out there are fine if the builder used it in the correct application (weight, gear ratios, etc).

All transaxles are subject to have problems, even the beloved Albins (yes, I personally scattered one myself).

Make sure you service and use logic in any purchase you make.

Good luck on your purchase.

Note to self, don't shift a syncro, non-dogchange Albins without the clutch!

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Stock LS1 here with a 2d going on 4 seasons now without any issues.

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I would run an 091 before another 2d!

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I run an E box behind a SB chevy. 4 years now and not one issue. I believe it has alot to do with how you drive the car.

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I think all the current transaxles out there are fine if the builder used it in the correct application (weight, gear ratios, etc).

All transaxles are subject to have problems, even the beloved Albins (yes, I personally scattered one myself).

Make sure you service and use logic in any purchase you make.

Good luck on your purchase.

Note to self, don't shift a syncro, non-dogchange Albins without the clutch!

They sell syncro non dogring?

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Plenty of 500 plus 2d's out there with no issues... every other year ck up no problems... dont be scarred

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If the car is under 2500# and the tire size is 33" or under and you know how to drive, it will be fine.

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:sandtrap: I totally agree it is how you drive it. I have an LS6 that was dynoed by CBM at 426 to the rear wheels. It is a 2 seat mid engine platform so the car is lighter. The transaxle was built by Rancho and has all the upgrades. I have not had any problems with it. I do not use reverse other than to get it out of the trailer and I also do not use 1st other than to get it rolling. In second, third and fourth I beat the S*** out of it. I agree with an earlier post that if you drive bad enough you can bust any of them. I also strongly believe that you must have someone build it that truely knows what they are doing. :rtd:

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2 full season in three years with a stock LS1 and 2D. As many have said it is all about how you drive. I don't run woops hard and I let off the gas and push in the clutch when I get air. If the LS motor is stock they don't seem to have as many issues.

Hummmmm?

Lawn dart,.... is the first thing that comes to mind.

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personally i will never own another 2d ever, in a 2seater light weight application they might last but if you plan on hammering it through the gears on and off the pedal it will give, jmo.

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my buddies old car is on year 6 with a 2d 5 years of it was on an ls1 with 5.3 heads (more compression) on 33s in a ricochete.

ricochetes geometry is not that great. my buddy is a good driver and not a slow roller just common sense.................

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2 full season in three years with a stock LS1 and 2D. As many have said it is all about how you drive. I don't run woops hard and I let off the gas and push in the clutch when I get air. If the LS motor is stock they don't seem to have as many issues.

Hummmmm?

Lawn dart,.... is the first thing that comes to mind.

I have seen this car and if it has been lawn darted then they fixed it correctly.

Rob

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2 full season in three years with a stock LS1 and 2D. As many have said it is all about how you drive. I don't run woops hard and I let off the gas and push in the clutch when I get air. If the LS motor is stock they don't seem to have as many issues.

Hummmmm?

Lawn dart,.... is the first thing that comes to mind.

I have seen this car and if it has been lawn darted then they fixed it correctly.

Rob

Hmmm...

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I had a worn out Ls1 in my buckshot that only put 247hp to the wheels and broke 3rd gear three time and two mainshaft bearing in one season. I did not run the drags or the whoops, just a fast dune ride. No care should have a 2d until Mendi fixes the problems!

If you are going thru that many main shaft bearings, you might want to either shift down or get on the gas. Most issues with bearings are due to lugging the engine and putting too much torque on the bearing. Sam at Rancho told me that 6 years ago, I haven't lost a bearing since. RPMs are good for trannies, it provides lubrication and dissapates the load better. If you can shift down, do so is what he told me. Subie 300 hp (dyno @ 220hp) with bus box (4 years no issues), Subie 460hp? on 2d.............2 years, had it gone thru last season, all good.

Rubs, wasn't your car around 3000lbs??

I believe most issues with all trannies are geomotry and how you drive. 35" tires in a 2500lb car will break a 2d............if you find the right car, the tranny is fine. I would look for a car under 2200lb, under 400hp (v8), 33" wheels, and you should be fine.

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My 2 cents.... There are many cars out there that have 2ds and have had success with them. But I am 100% convinced that they are a weak link, especially on a big car with alot of torque. Personally, I would rather have a bulletproof tranny with a weak motor. Horsepower can always be added.

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ALL the cars in this photo run a 2d except for the leader. You would be hard pressed to find a faster group in the dunes.

That depends where you look :ck: Pad 4 would be a good place to start

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I had a worn out Ls1 in my buckshot that only put 247hp to the wheels and broke 3rd gear three time and two mainshaft bearing in one season. I did not run the drags or the whoops, just a fast dune ride. No care should have a 2d until Mendi fixes the problems!

Fixed!

I bought a 2d buggy last season. How do you no if you have a fixed one?

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I had a worn out Ls1 in my buckshot that only put 247hp to the wheels and broke 3rd gear three time and two mainshaft bearing in one season. I did not run the drags or the whoops, just a fast dune ride. No care should have a 2d until Mendi fixes the problems!

Fixed!

I bought a 2d buggy last season. How do you no if you have a fixed one?

I am sure yours has all the bells and whistles-

Sorry, I was being fesicious with 'Rubs'

Since in 2005 the S4 was released for the larger cars

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I had a worn out Ls1 in my buckshot that only put 247hp to the wheels and broke 3rd gear three time and two mainshaft bearing in one season. I did not run the drags or the whoops, just a fast dune ride. No care should have a 2d until Mendi fixes the problems!

If you are going thru that many main shaft bearings, you might want to either shift down or get on the gas. Most issues with bearings are due to lugging the engine and putting too much torque on the bearing. Sam at Rancho told me that 6 years ago, I haven't lost a bearing since. RPMs are good for trannies, it provides lubrication and dissapates the load better. If you can shift down, do so is what he told me. Subie 300 hp (dyno @ 220hp) with bus box (4 years no issues), Subie 460hp? on 2d.............2 years, had it gone thru last season, all good.

Rubs, wasn't your car around 3000lbs??

I believe most issues with all trannies are geomotry and how you drive. 35" tires in a 2500lb car will break a 2d............if you find the right car, the tranny is fine. I would look for a car under 2200lb, under 400hp (v8), 33" wheels, and you should be fine.

Alex my buckshot was under 2500lbs, was always spinning the higher rpms with the lower hp and never lugged it! We had alot of 2d cars on hooker point, 4 bangers to V8s and not one could keep a 2d going for a full season.

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The 2d can live behind a V8 and until the S4 came out there wasn’t a better AFFORDABLE option. If you want a better tranny, pony up the money! I got 2.5 years out of my 2D when I pulled it to have it checked out. The American R&P was about done and replaced with the Weddle one. When I built my car the 2D was it but today there are better options for a V8 car if you have the money.

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What is the average cost to have a 2D rebuilt. :ck:

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What is the average cost to have a 2D rebuilt. :ck:

Every dealer has there own pricing structure. Please see your local dealer for pricing.

Mendeola R&R is as follows with magnaflux of all ferrous components

MD4S= $550.00

MD5 = $575.00

LQ =$600.00

S4/S5= $625.00

S4D/S5D = $650.00

HD4 =$795.00

* does not include parts, labor only

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SO I'm guessing about 2k to rebuild

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