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CV’s Clicking


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My CV’s click when the car is turning. Is this normal?  I have had professionals tell me conflicting points of view. I have had them replaced already and done professionally, and they still click, quite loudly. I just wanted to get they general consensus from you guys on here, maybe @J Alper will chime in, I always respect his knowledge, and others as well. 
LS1, 2D, 33 Stu sand blasters, and I believe they are 930’s (?) 

Geez, I love this car! I just want to make sure I stay on top of everything and keep her in the best shape possible. Thanks in  advance. 

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Hard to tell from the pics, have you figured out the degrees the axels are “swept” back? Is the noise consistent while turning both under power and off?

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59 minutes ago, BaBaBouy said:

Hard to tell from the pics, have you figured out the degrees the axels are “swept” back? Is the noise consistent while turning both under power and off?

Pretty sure it’s consistent both under power and off the power. 

 

17 minutes ago, Carwashguru said:

What grease was used and how many trips since the last prep?

2 days of riding since last prep, which included new cv’s and grease. 

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16 minutes ago, AlpineFunco said:

How long have the limit straps been on that car? They do stretch over time.

^^^ This. When you turn, your suspension tops out on one side (body roll) causing your CV to click. Shorten your straps or buy new ones if they are stretched.

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14 minutes ago, AlpineFunco said:

How long have the limit straps been on that car? They do stretch over time.

Replaced last season when the shocks were rebuilt and tuned. You like those huh!

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were the CV's indexed when they were put onto the buggy?  One of the guys in my group has to index his or they click.  Ive always indexed them so I dont know if it matters on my car.  I know some folks dont.....

 

https://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm

 

 

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4 hours ago, Bobalos said:

were the CV's indexed when they were put onto the buggy?  One of the guys in my group has to index his or they click.  Ive always indexed them so I dont know if it matters on my car.  I know some folks dont.....

 

https://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm

 

 

Not true. 

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There are so many reasons why they click and make noise , I have a Mid travel manx and they will click and make so much noise people will pull along side of me and tell me that I have a CV going out, the reason mine make so much clacking is that mine have a large back sweep, I went 8 years on a set of german 930 before I decided to replace them,and never broke one. I also remove them every year , clean them, and repack them. They are a little louder when I am turning at low speeds. I also put much more miles on my car because it street legal and get to drive it year round. I believe if you maintain them every year,that will be the ticket.

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5 minutes ago, Bobalos said:

What isn't true? 

Indexing CVs, aka clocking. It is myth and serives no purpose other than fodder for this website. I prep 20 sets of CVs a year and have never clocked/indexed and set. 

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I have clocked and not clocked CV's really could never tell a difference some people swear by it and others not so much, for me don't think it matters just my .02 

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I had a sandcar specialities car that would click if I did not clock the cv's. It was running between 22°-23° without factoring the back sweep. I also had to have kartek back cut the star for more travel. 

Edited by Sand phene
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Mabe the drive axle is tapping the face of the stub, I always figured with the cv not under load it’s sagging towards the hub bouncing back.I always have to file the hub side to get the CV off. 

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1 hour ago, L.R.S. said:

Indexing CVs, aka clocking. It is myth and serives no purpose other than fodder for this website. I prep 20 sets of CVs a year and have never clocked/indexed and set. 

Ayep. They’re called Constant Velocity for a reason: they’re self-canceling when run at an angle (within reason). Clocking/indexing is required for U-joints because they don’t self-cancel. Assemble them correctly and throw them on the axle. 

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My experience is if they are making noise you will soon have a problem.  I second the limit strap question.  Jack up the back end off the ground and rotate the drive wheels.  If the are clicking try a shorter strap.   

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For argument sake have you ever worked on a car where  at full droop the axle bind while turning the wheel?  Specifically six times in one rotation?

just asking yes or no?  Have you ever been on a dyno and seen the axle have a cyclical back and forth?  Specifically a frequency of 6 times a revelation ?

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2 hours ago, Johnny said:

They are a little louder when I am turning at low speeds.

What Johnny said ^^^
This is what is funny to me, I notice them clicking most when just barely puttering while leaving camp or going slow with low throttle. My motor is so loud I probably don’t notice them if I’m romping on it, but I don’t have enough body roll when going 3mph and turning. They increase in sound the sharper the turn, from non existent while going straight, to loud with the wheel turned all the way. 
 

 

32 minutes ago, John@Outfront said:

For argument sake have you ever worked on a car where  at full droop the axle bind while turning the wheel?  Specifically six times in one rotation?

just asking yes or no?  Have you ever been on a dyno and seen the axle have a cyclical back and forth?  Specifically a frequency of 6 times a revelation ?

no. And I feel like you’re mad at me because I haven’t… 😎😂

 

50 minutes ago, Tyman said:

My experience is if they are making noise you will soon have a problem.  I second the limit strap question.  Jack up the back end off the ground and rotate the drive wheels.  If the are clicking try a shorter strap.   

Tried what you suggested. They are quiet. I was kinda hoping they made noise so maybe it would narrow it down. 

 

2 hours ago, L.R.S. said:

Indexing CVs, aka clocking. It is myth and serives no purpose other than fodder for this website. I prep 20 sets of CVs a year and have never clocked/indexed and set. 

So what would you suggest? I follow your IG and have seen that you do a lot of these. Does anybody come back to you and say they are still clicking even after you change out a set? If so, what remedies it? 

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When diving slow the back end of your car will sit higher. So cresting over dunes slowly or turning sharp slowly will allow the car to roll to one side extending your shock fully and binding the cv to where it clicks. Going faster the ass end will squat giving less angle keeping the cv from binding. All of this has been stated already. In order to fix this, you need to shorten your limit straps. Jack the back of the car up and rotate the wheels by hand. You will hear and feel them clicking. Shorten the straps so you don’t feel them bind anymore and then shorten them a 1/2” more. Since your straps are new they will stretch so if you only shorten them just enough you will be doing it again very shortly. 

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The debate has gone on forever about clocking or not clocking a cv. I have had buggies that never needed clocking but I have also owned a car that needed it. So to say that it’s never needed and does nothing is false. What I have found is the higher grade manufactures spent a lot of time dialing in the geometry of the suspension and the correct placement of the transmission and didn’t need the cvs clocked or even limit straps. Then there are the other manufactures that didn’t quite get it right! I understand they are constant velocity and by all means it shouldn’t matter but for some strange reason it does.

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^^^  exactly ^^^  i dont typically clock CVs either.  95% of the time.   i dont, but there are some setups that it can help

if the axle angle and length are set up correctly (probably like all the cars LRS works on), then there would be zero reason to clock the CV,  And LRS can say its a myth for any cars he has ever set up --ever!  I agree!

constant velocity is the term for the joint, and does a pretty good job of doing just that when the set up is also correct

However, if the axle is a little too short (even if the angles are ok) it pulls on both stars. when this happens, 100% of the time it will develop 6 easy spots and 6 binding spots per revolution. To prove this why would the inner boot flang have 6 witness marks if it was always constant velocity?  This is a FACT (please explain otherwise) I might add that in a "poor set up" they are also not "constant velocity" any more either.  if the inner and outer cv's were clocked in like manner then the pushing and pulling of the "too short of axle" would be in sync and have less binding for the poorly set up car.

Now why would you want all GD readers to know that its a myth?  just because you will probably never encounter it with the cars you work on doesnt mean its a myth for the world, clearly there are testimonies of those that it helps--or are they just crazy?

it could benefit a setup up from having less binding,  sure the right answer is to buy longer axles or possibly put on limit straps to reduce axle angle

But to say it could "NEVER" help is False

Just to be clear Jeff and i agree that CV's dont need to be clocked 95% of the time

Edited by John@Outfront
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53 minutes ago, John@Outfront said:

^^^  exactly ^^^  i dont typically clock CVs either.  95% of the time.   i dont, but there are some setups that it can help

if the axle angle and length are set up correctly (probably like all the cars LRS works on), then there would be zero reason to clock the CV,  And LRS can say its a myth for any cars he has ever set up --ever!  I agree!

constant velocity is the term for the joint, and does a pretty good job of doing just that when the set up is also correct

However, if the axle is a little too short (even if the angles are ok) it pulls on both stars. when this happens, 100% of the time it will develop 6 easy spots and 6 binding spots per revolution. To prove this why would the inner boot flang have 6 witness marks if it was always constant velocity?  This is a FACT (please explain otherwise) I might add that in a "poor set up" they are also not "constant velocity" any more either.  if the inner and outer cv's were clocked in like manner then the pushing and pulling of the "too short of axle" would be in sync and have less binding for the poorly set up car.

Now why would you want all GD readers to know that its a myth?  just because you will probably never encounter it with the cars you work on doesnt mean its a myth for the world, clearly there are testimonies of those that it helps--or are they just crazy?

it could benefit a setup up from having less binding,  sure the right answer is to buy longer axles or possibly put on limit straps to reduce axle angle

But to say it could "NEVER" help is False

Just to be clear Jeff and i agree that CV's dont need to be clocked 95% of the time

So, when you have them out for service why not just go ahead and clock them? It is such a simple thing to do and there after won't be a concern. Go ahead and eliminate the chance of being in the 5% group.

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