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Filter gets oily...


EmpirE231
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I think you are just using too much oil on them.  I use the red oil from K&N so I can see where it has been sprayed.  Then I don’t install the outerware until I get to the dunes or on the way.  I never have enough oil to blot it off the next day.  

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1 hour ago, Budlight69 said:

I think you are just using too much oil on them.  I use the red oil from K&N so I can see where it has been sprayed.  Then I don’t install the outerware until I get to the dunes or on the way.  I never have enough oil to blot it off the next day.  

agree with this. 

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19 hours ago, DustyBLLs said:

I went to running the R2C dry filters. They actually filter better than the oil a gauze style and when they're dirty you just blow them out from the inside.

http://www.r2cperformance.com/

I ran them for a bit.  You have to replace them every season minimum or dust gets in.  I was getting dust migration after a season on their largest 3" inlet filter with a 280whp engine.  I switched to Donaldson cansiters, knock the primary filter out every other trip, and haven't had any color change on the backup media in 2 seasons now.  Replacement media is like $30.  Not enough flow through the unit I have for this motor (might not even work with 2), but I'd watch those R2Cs carefully or more than just your screen name will be dusty. :biggrin:

12 hours ago, EmpirE231 said:

That was my theory... well it’s good to know that it isn’t anything to worry about. Not sure if my BOV is adjustable or not. I can hear it venting when I lift, but who knows if some is through the filters. 

Does it gobble like a turkey, or give a nice solid "CHUFF"?  If you hear gobbling turkey sounds, it's either too small or not adjusted correctly.  If it's recirculating back into the intake, get a Mity Vac and adjust it so it cracks open around 17-20in-Hg.  If open to atmosphere, make sure there are filters on them and tighten until they DON'T open at normal idle.  

Filters?  Even tightened so they don't open at idle, a healthy motor will still pull near-perfect vacuum on decel at higher RPM, which will likely open all but the tightest (and probably non-functioning) BOV.  No filters mean the BOV is sucking in whatever's around it, which is probably sand in Glamis. :biggrin: 

Edited by Rockwood
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15 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

I ran them for a bit.  You have to replace them every season minimum or dust gets in.  I was getting dust migration after a season on their largest 3" inlet filter with a 280whp engine.  I switched to Donaldson cansiters, knock the primary filter out every other trip, and haven't had any color change on the backup media in 2 seasons now.  Replacement media is like $30.  Not enough flow through the unit I have for this motor (might not even work with 2), but I'd watch those R2Cs carefully or more than just your screen name will be dusty. :biggrin:

Thanks For the heads up! Will definitely be watching more closely than I previously assumed. It is one of the biggest filters they have so hopefully that gets me a bit more life.

Thinking I might try the S&B filter next and see how those fair to the sand.

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33 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

 

Does it gobble like a turkey, or give a nice solid "CHUFF"?  If you hear gobbling turkey sounds, it's either too small or not adjusted correctly.  If it's recirculating back into the intake, get a Mity Vac and adjust it so it cracks open around 17-20in-Hg.  If open to atmosphere, make sure there are filters on them and tighten until they DON'T open at normal idle.  

Filters?  Even tightened so they don't open at idle, a healthy motor will still pull near-perfect vacuum on decel at higher RPM, which will likely open all but the tightest (and probably non-functioning) BOV.  No filters mean the BOV is sucking in whatever's around it, which is probably sand in Glamis. :biggrin: 

This is another issue (BOV)  and @Rockwood a great way to explain the sound of Turbo surge. I doubt that will make any difference in the condition of your filters, but it will definitely make your car more responsive off and on the gas, and the turbos live longer by fixing it. I need to dig up the pics of twisted turbo shafts from just that issue....

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8 minutes ago, Fullthrottleguy said:

This is another issue (BOV)  and @Rockwood a great way to explain the sound of Turbo surge. I doubt that will make any difference in the condition of your filters, but it will definitely make your car more responsive off and on the gas, and the turbos live longer by fixing it. I need to dig up the pics of twisted turbo shafts from just that issue....

I've seen chipped compressor wheels from it.  Not good.

Bunch of these have the gobbling turkey.

Not sure why they think it's a good sound.  All I hear is damage... LOL

Edited by Rockwood
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1 hour ago, Rockwood said:

I've seen chipped compressor wheels from it.  Not good.

Bunch of these have the gobbling turkey.

Not sure why they think it's a good sound.  All I hear is damage... LOL

Thats amazing ... They really think thats good. So painful. It's almost as badd as when I hear guys bouncing off the rev limiter constantly not realizing they are floating the valves and worse hammering the rod bearings .. well they might realize a problem soon enough

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2 hours ago, Rockwood said:

I ran them for a bit.  You have to replace them every season minimum or dust gets in.  I was getting dust migration after a season on their largest 3" inlet filter with a 280whp engine.  I switched to Donaldson cansiters, knock the primary filter out every other trip, and haven't had any color change on the backup media in 2 seasons now.  Replacement media is like $30.  Not enough flow through the unit I have for this motor (might not even work with 2), but I'd watch those R2Cs carefully or more than just your screen name will be dusty. :biggrin:

Does it gobble like a turkey, or give a nice solid "CHUFF"?  If you hear gobbling turkey sounds, it's either too small or not adjusted correctly.  If it's recirculating back into the intake, get a Mity Vac and adjust it so it cracks open around 17-20in-Hg.  If open to atmosphere, make sure there are filters on them and tighten until they DON'T open at normal idle.  

Filters?  Even tightened so they don't open at idle, a healthy motor will still pull near-perfect vacuum on decel at higher RPM, which will likely open all but the tightest (and probably non-functioning) BOV.  No filters mean the BOV is sucking in whatever's around it, which is probably sand in Glamis. :biggrin: 

Mine does more of a woosh sound when I let off. Not the cool Turkey gobler... so I assume it’s working okay. 

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10 minutes ago, EmpirE231 said:

Mine does more of a woosh sound when I let off. Not the cool Turkey gobler... so I assume it’s working okay. 

Woosh is good. 

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I'll try a little less oil next time around.  I can't imagine these filters are too small for this setup... it is stock stroke LS2 on 9lbs of boost.  Most of the crazy motor cars aren't running filters any bigger, and have 3x the boost and HP. 

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4 hours ago, EmpirE231 said:

 I can't imagine these filters are too small for this setup...

Hold my beer .... I saw this on TikTok it must be easy  🤪

 

I cannot help it - I like doing the math rather than guessing or watching  You Tube Video ...

So Here is the Math -  - Lets see how it works out -

A properly oiled K&N air filter flows  6 CFM when perfectly clean  and 4 cfm's per square inch (based on their spec)   when dirty  an  Outerwear  probably cuts this down a little 

500HP requires approx 1000 CFM -  you probably make 720HP (thats what Turnkey rates their TT LS2 at 9Lbs boost ..

So lets say 750Hp thats 1500 CFM  - now granted you are not running at full HP all the time 

but you need XX sq inches of Air cleaner -  You can measure the Height and circumference of the two air cleaners and see how that works out ...

If your Air cleaner is 6" diameter (most are 5" at the bottom and 4" on top in that size ) and its 6" tall ... Lets assume its bigger

So use this formula and you will know the total surface area -  since K&N measures CFM per square inch  as "pleated" given the filter is actually much larger - due to the pleates

So 6" filter has a circumference of 18.84

so the total area of each filter is  -  169.65"  x 2 = 339 Sq Inch  x 6 cfm = 2034 CFM PERFECTLY CLEAN  and 1356 CFM dirty .....

So you decide - I would say your air filters are smaller than my calculations 

But clean you are OK - dirty, not so much  - so Take LRS's advice and put on new Air Filters after a day or two - or get bigger 8" air filters

I also believe the CBM's K&N copies flow a little better from what read.

FWIW

 

main-qimg-c503903d0338541fd58712c80e73bd87.png.79c69d879dbe7bc67a51d0e4a85177ac.png

Edited by Fullthrottleguy
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1 hour ago, Fullthrottleguy said:

Hold my beer .... I saw this on TikTok it must be easy  🤪

 

I cannot help it - I like doing the math rather than guessing or watching  You Tube Video ...

So Here is the Math -  - Lets see how it works out -

A properly oiled K&N air filter flows  6 CFM when perfectly clean  and 4 cfm's per square inch (based on their spec)   when dirty  an  Outerwear  probably cuts this down a little 

500HP requires approx 1000 CFM -  you probably make 720HP (thats what Turnkey rates their TT LS2 at 9Lbs boost ..

So lets say 750Hp thats 1500 CFM  - now granted you are not running at full HP all the time 

but you need XX sq inches of Air cleaner -  You can measure the Height and circumference of the two air cleaners and see how that works out ...

If your Air cleaner is 6" diameter (most are 5" at the bottom and 4" on top in that size ) and its 6" tall ... Lets assume its bigger

So use this formula and you will know the total surface area -  since K&N measures CFM per square inch  as "pleated" given the filter is actually much larger - due to the pleates

So 6" filter has a circumference of 18.84

so the total area of each filter is  -  169.65"  x 2 = 339 Sq Inch  x 6 cfm = 2034 CFM PERFECTLY CLEAN  and 1356 CFM dirty .....

So you decide - I would say your air filters are smaller than my calculations 

But clean you are OK - dirty, not so much  - so Take LRS's advice and put on new Air Filters after a day or two - or get bigger 8" air filters

I also believe the CBM's flow a little better from what read.

FWIW

 

main-qimg-c503903d0338541fd58712c80e73bd87.png.79c69d879dbe7bc67a51d0e4a85177ac.png

But mine also has filtration on top! That has to help LOL 😉

5753FC9B-AFC5-456F-82E4-F8238058F95D.thumb.jpeg.cd27147034ad2eec9a2468b9be1bcba1.jpeg

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22 hours ago, EmpirE231 said:

That was my theory... well it’s good to know that it isn’t anything to worry about. Not sure if my BOV is adjustable or not. I can hear it venting when I lift, but who knows if some is through the filters. 

It truly is very difficult to get all air to be displaced through a blow off when you are pushing quite a bit of pressure through the intake. Really the goal is to stop turbo stall. Most system slow the turbo but don’t stall them… this air goes back out the way it come.

That being said it is something you can work on and try to get better. Realistically you will not likely feel any difference in power or response though. These cars are too heavy and our feet too slow to realize the loss of response from a slight slow down of turbo speed..

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