Jump to content

Subaru 2.0 won’t start


Jammer75
 Share

Recommended Posts

So I kinda stole @Turbo_Manx_Maniactopic on Subaru belt slip. (I thought/wish that’s all I was doing as well-fixing slipped belt!) Stoked he’s back up and going!

So no where near the end.

But here’s everything to date. 


subaru 2.0 turbo 8-9lbs (creeps to 10 before settling)

link ecu lemv5

bought used buggy 5years ago. Built 2008

Two issues

-single fan, ran hot(low cfm-820ish)

-starting issue. Cold or hot did not matter . If it did not start on first revolution I would most likely have to give it a shot of starting fluid. Start right up. Checked spark, injector pulse, injectors tested, new spark plugs, clean file filters, fuel pump. Never figured it out. 

2 years ago- turbo goes out. Replace with China one, equivalent to what’s on there. But cannot connect to ecu and no tuners available here that would mess with the old link ecu.  So told just put a wr o2 sensor on. So I plumb that into the exhaust and everything’s within limits through the range (come to think of it it would be towards the rich side) Everything feels the same as before.

Then to this year, I’ve only done reg. Maintenance.

Last summer installed a new single fan(more fab to get dual in there-not sure I need two now). New fan claims 1800 cfm). Noticed coolant crust on bottom of radiator, figured let’s get that fixed before season. Radiator shop (all they said could be done) was to epoxy it. Since where it installs put’s tension on the radiator the epoxy cracked during install. Luckily guy at the radiator shop said “that’s out of an early 90’ s Honda Accord”. That right there to me was great info as I found one, better quality and fairly cheap, installed it. Remounted so no unnecessary tension on it.

dune weekends

-3 days weekend before halloween

-3 days veterans 

-5 days thanksgiving

-5 days New Years 

no issues ran cool, starting was on point, just ripping it till 2nd day of New Years. Come back to camp, last ride. Next morning hop in go to start- nothing(at all, we’ll fuel pump energized) go back to starter and check battery connections, starter connections, starter trigger connection. Still nothing. Check fuses, check wiring. Everything looks fine. Starter switch feels bad enough that I’m like boom just need a new switch.  Jump on the dirt bike, up to Joe fab, switch in hand and back in less then 10 minutes! Install switch-same thing- nothing.  So fast forward to getting back from Brawley urgent care (11 stitches)-use wire cutters to cut zip Ty’s not a razor-lesson learned(again). Buddy comes over jiggled the same trigger starter wire, I said I’ll try and boom, started cranking. Go on next ride. 1st stop, try and start and nothing. Try switch again and nothing but can hear inaccessible relay, sounds like it’s chattering. Turn it off think about bump starting it. Try again it starts cranking  

 

Back to the starting fluid thing real quick. So far this season I’ve been having it start up right away and not needing any starting fluid until this last trip. So not sure when I did and didn’t need it this trip. Just know it was reverting back to old ways.

leave that spot and dune pretty hard till 2nd stop. No issues dune back to camp. 
 

Ready for next ride, jump in and cranks but no start. Use starting fluid still won’t start. Another buddy says “hey gas is leaking out of the exhaust on the bottom”- what…?  Sure enough there’s a crack in the exhaust along the bottom weld from cylinder #2. Will get that welded ASAP. But there’s a good amount of raw gas coming out, enough to fill the palm of you hand in a few cranks. 
 

Thinking it is just the belt slipped, no reason to check as it was last ride anyway. Push on trailer and get home. 

In garage trying to start, immediately notice the fan comes on with ignition.  
 

Get on forum to start figuring it out.  
 

Lots of info to try, dedicated members. Truly thanks!

Ok. What has been tried

Timing belt is correct

Replaced all relays

Ecu- “I” can’t connect to laptop. Only thinking this is the cause, as for that much fuel dumping and the fan situation, maybe it has failed. Always been told more times than not the ecu isn’t to blame.  But I pull apart the ecu and check all connections and solder joints everything looks fine. 
-I check the wiring Best I can especially the 2 main grounds that run separate from the ecu to the block. The P ground does and and S ground does also but has a couple other wires coming off of it (always been that way, so..).

Fuel pump- over 40psi when energized.

Spark-yes

spark plugs out- cranked and saw how much fuel was coming out of cyl#2 but also about 1/4 as much coming out of cyl#1.  The 2 others seemed normal. So was gonna switch injectors between the 2 “gassy” ones to the 2 normal cylinders 

compression test 

Cold -did not hold throttle open, cranked till needle stopped. Checked in this order:

cyl#3 140

cyl#1 130

cyl#4 120

cyl#2 90 (I’ve had a tick that would go away once in a while near here)

car ran strong and the same since I’ve owned it.

Enter craziness-

Thinking I can’t check the ecu. The engine is old. Some suggestions of the low cylinder probably will be fine, I tend to agree as it ran and idled great! Nothing to think otherwise. 
 

Start thinking, too much, that I’m good with it being time to get a new ecu, wiring is all old, connectors are brittle. Gonna do this regardless of the outcome (John, we’ll get it goin).  And get it properly dyno tuned!
 

Injectors-recommend to switch injectors to see if the other cylinders did the same thing.  Didn’t think about just changing the connectors. 
 

Been advised it’s not a good idea to remove the injectors individually, but had done it in the past and didn’t think anything of it.

Anyway noticed the orings inside the fuel rail were pretty beat up (didn’t notice it even had orings in there the first time I had them out, as the injector itself has so many) went to turn the switch on and fuel started coming out the injector right above cyl#3. Went to check it and the cap that holds down the injector wasn’t tight enough (Trying to be careful not to strip) it wasn’t secure, got injector all the way in and started tightening caps, of course I strip one out.  
 

Now thinking I’m ok with just getting a another used JDM 2.0 suby. As once I start to replace this and that, should be able to get something for around $1000. 
 

start thinking again, a couple times during the trip before the no start I felt what was like I was in the rev limiter but at low rpm”s and had to push the throttle to clean it out (it was quick) like right when a 2 stroke loads up before cleaning out. Didn’t think much of it at the time. 
 

so where I’m at- 

is it possible that so much fuel was running past the seals in cyl#2 and #1 that this engine won’t start and maybe that has been my weird starting problem all along? Not starting on the first revolution, flooded but not so much that the starting fluid helped fire it off? Could it be that if I have the fuel rail and injector orings all replaced (going out tomorrow to Accurate Injection Service, he said no big deal on the striped one can just use a nut and longer bolt!) that this may fix it ALL….???

Is the fan thing coincidental, I will be checking the wire and replacing the sensor to rule that out.

so I guess worst case is new (used JDM 2.0)  engine (if can find certain one, to use necessary parts) and new ecu. 

shout outs to 

@HTElectrical

@Turbo_Manx_Maniac

@John@Outfront

Thanks for reading

I have pics (even the stitches)

Edited by Jammer75
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you are on the right track.  Get all 4 of your injectors tested and cleaned, and then go from there.  Post after that, and I am sure the fan problem can be figured out.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Putting another 2.0 engine into a car with a bad computer or whatever won't fix it, you'll just have 2 engines that wont start.

Maybe John will let you send in your computer and he can test it? If not, I'd buy a new computer an harness and get a good base map put on it, then get a tune. At least you'll have something that's current and that you can log into. 

Unusual that the car wont start and you're having fan problems all starting at the same time. Sounds like a bad computer or wiring to me.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you watching your voltage when you crank?  Alot of computers are sensitive to voltage drop and if they battery is low with fans running it could be hard to start.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Turbo_Manx_Maniac said:

Putting another 2.0 engine into a car with a bad computer or whatever won't fix it, you'll just have 2 engines that wont start.

Maybe John will let you send in your computer and he can test it? If not, I'd buy a new computer an harness and get a good base map put on it, then get a tune. At least you'll have something that's current and that you can log into. 

Unusual that the car wont start and you're having fan problems all starting at the same time. Sounds like a bad computer or wiring to me.

That is definitely part of the plan. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, r3meyer said:

Are you watching your voltage when you crank?  Alot of computers are sensitive to voltage drop and if they battery is low with fans running it could be hard to start.  

Once I get the injectors back, I will make sure the battery is good to go. Cranking seemed strong and I did pull the fan relay wire so it wouldn’t activate while testing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can send the ecu to Link also. I have all the cables to read those old white and green ecus as does John IF it’s not 1st Gen. those were only tunable with handheld controller not a laptop. 

Edited by BJ_buggyfab
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a 2.0 with a link ecu that sometimes did not want to start,  with mine if I wiggled the connector going into the Link ecu it would fire right up.  I ended up putting a new plug on and fixed the issue.  I would try plugging and unplugging and blow out,  I actually zipp tied the plug to th link firmly and it help a lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to have a 2.0 and then switched to a 2.5. Night and day difference. The 2.0 was like a 2-stroke. I had to be super high in the RPMs all the time. 2.5 was so much more dunable. My point is....if you are going to switch maybe go with a JDM 2.5. You need a new ECU anyways. At one point I had a 2.5 block with 2.0 heads and turbo. I don't recall what years everything was from. Steve Johnson put it together. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was the guy who brought his car into John last week with the bad wiring. Definitely frustrating to only find out it was an issue that I had caused on my own (Live and Learn!). But, big props to @John@Outfront for dealing with my mess and for fixing my self-made problem in record time. 

Anyways, I have an EJ20G Turbo with a not so typical sand set up that I had just recently purchased. I had a recent issue where the car ran like chit, smoked, smelt rich and wouldn't idle after I had a battery crap out on me in the dunes.

Talked to John and he pointed me to checking my vacuum lines. Turns out I have (2) barb ends under my throttle body that are capped off. Both were bad and were causing my issue. Replaced the caps and she was back to normal. Not sure what kind of set up you have or if its anything like mine, but I would confirm your vacuum lines are good. 

I'm still having some issues, and will be taking my car to John for a dyno session/tune here soon. I also have a old Link ECU (D42V4). I can keep you posted  on the outcome if it will help in anyway.

 

 

 

 

Edited by nzulmer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, BJ_buggyfab said:

You can send the ecu to Link also. I have all the cables to read those old white and green ecus as does John IF it’s not 1st Gen. those were only tunable with handheld controller not a laptop. 

I have the cables. And the serial port that hooks to ecu. It’s just doesn’t seem to see it for some reason. And I think it did once but was asking for some different parameters and I don’t know what that is. Even if the ecu is fine I’m going to be replacing the it. I have a buddy sending me one that he has on the shelf to plug in and see what happens.

CC9F7A80-83AA-4C18-A13B-D5F14A8D0D2B.jpeg

7D3E837E-BB8A-44CB-82B7-BADF6A25239D.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, SLIM said:

I had a 2.0 with a link ecu that sometimes did not want to start,  with mine if I wiggled the connector going into the Link ecu it would fire right up.  I ended up putting a new plug on and fixed the issue.  I would try plugging and unplugging and blow out,  I actually zipp tied the plug to th link firmly and it help a lot.

Thanks. I have. And through the whole connector. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Punchdrunk Monkey said:

I used to have a 2.0 and then switched to a 2.5. Night and day difference. The 2.0 was like a 2-stroke. I had to be super high in the RPMs all the time. 2.5 was so much more dunable. My point is....if you are going to switch maybe go with a JDM 2.5. You need a new ECU anyways. At one point I had a 2.5 block with 2.0 heads and turbo. I don't recall what years everything was from. Steve Johnson put it together. 

The only thing on my mind with that is I have an 091.  Don’t know if I need or how much added stress that would place on it..? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, nzulmer said:

I was the guy who brought his car into John last week with the bad wiring. Definitely frustrating to only find out it was an issue that I had caused on my own (Live and Learn!). But, big props to @John@Outfront for dealing with my mess and for fixing my self-made problem in record time. 

Anyways, I have an EJ20G Turbo with a not so typical sand set up that I had just recently purchased. I had a recent issue where the car ran like chit, smoked, smelt rich and wouldn't idle after I had a battery crap out on me in the dunes.

Talked to John and he pointed me to checking my vacuum lines. Turns out I have (2) barb ends under my throttle body that are capped off. Both were bad and were causing my issue. Replaced the caps and she was back to normal. Not sure what kind of set up you have or if its anything like mine, but I would confirm your vacuum lines are good. 

I'm still having some issues, and will be taking my car to John for a dyno session/tune here soon. I also have a old Link ECU (D42V4). I can keep you posted  on the outcome if it will help in anyway.

 

 

 

 

I just checked. It appears I have 3 nipples on the top of the intake. 1 going to ecu. 1 going to turbo blow off valve. 1 to the fuel psi. Regulator. There are 2 that are capped that shoot down from the throttle body and 1 big (1/2”) bung that’s capped off. Seems to be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, Jammer75 said:

I just checked. It appears I have 3 nipples on the top of the intake. 1 going to ecu. 1 going to turbo blow off valve. 1 to the fuel psi. Regulator. There are 2 that are capped that shoot down from the throttle body and 1 big (1/2”) bung that’s capped off. Seems to be fine.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Jammer75 said:

The only thing on my mind with that is I have an 091.  Don’t know if I need or how much added stress that would place on it..? 

I also had an 091 with Weddle internals. I had a 2.5 block with 2.0 heads/turbo; regular JDM turbo 2.5 and a full STi 2.5 (out of 2006 WRX Sti). All behind a 091. If you are a smart driver they will last. Don't get me wrong, I could break it at any time if I wanted to. I ride with Turbo Manx Manic. Our whole group has 2.5/091 combos. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Punchdrunk Monkey said:

I also had an 091 with Weddle internals. I had a 2.5 block with 2.0 heads/turbo; regular JDM turbo 2.5 and a full STi 2.5 (out of 2006 WRX Sti). All behind a 091. If you are a smart driver they will last. Don't get me wrong, I could break it at any time if I wanted to. I ride with Turbo Manx Manic. Our whole group has 2.5/091 combos. 

I've been friends with PDM for ~ 30 years. Finally he said something smart. :tll:

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/17/2022 at 6:44 PM, Jammer75 said:

I have the cables. And the serial port that hooks to ecu. It’s just doesn’t seem to see it for some reason. And I think it did once but was asking for some different parameters and I don’t know what that is. Even if the ecu is fine I’m going to be replacing the it. I have a buddy sending me one that he has on the shelf to plug in and see what happens.

CC9F7A80-83AA-4C18-A13B-D5F14A8D0D2B.jpeg

7D3E837E-BB8A-44CB-82B7-BADF6A25239D.jpeg

Pm me if you’re getting rid of the ecu and harness. I’d like to have a spare. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/18/2022 at 8:20 AM, Punchdrunk Monkey said:

I also had an 091 with Weddle internals. I had a 2.5 block with 2.0 heads/turbo; regular JDM turbo 2.5 and a full STi 2.5 (out of 2006 WRX Sti). All behind a 091. If you are a smart driver they will last. Don't get me wrong, I could break it at any time if I wanted to. I ride with Turbo Manx Manic. Our whole group has 2.5/091 combos. 

I would like to go this route!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/18/2022 at 9:01 PM, BJ_buggyfab said:

Pm me if you’re getting rid of the ecu and harness. I’d like to have a spare. 

I'll let you know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Jammer75 said:

I would like to go this route!

Do it if you can. My 2.0 was my first non-VW motor. I thought it was the best thing ever! Until I got a 2.5. The 2.5 Sti motor (100% STi, not just block) was the best motor I have ever owned. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

Shout Box

Shout Box

You don't have permission to chat.
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...

    Important Information

    Terms of Use Privacy Policy