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Racerngr1

Rebuilding CV's

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Is there a good video or guide posted somewhere on how to do this?  I believe I have the 930 midboards mounted to my 2D and would like to learn how to do this as just good general knowledge.  Any advise would be appreciated.

Rear Suspension.JPG

5 Link.JPG

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     CV Assembly

 

 

It used to have some nice pictures, but it looks like he's updated the site and the pics didn't make the cut.

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Outfront link posted is great.

 

Just FYI, not midboards. Stub axles

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5 minutes ago, matt86m said:

Outfront link posted is great.

 

Just FYI, not midboards. Stub axles

Look who is learning stuff.. lol

 

Matt LOVES to regrease CVs btw, so if you need help take them to his house..

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Photo credit goes to Outfront.....

CV outer.jpg

CV diag.jpg

Edited by CHIZZLE

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LOL Just did this lots of rags, rubber gloves and patience!

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Good pics on the Outfront site.  Print out some of those pics and hang them on the wall where you will rebuild the CV's so you can refer to the pics easily.  Don't waste your time 'clocking' the CV's, it's completely useless.  It's easy to get things turned around and backwards so take you time.  I tape thick blue paper shop towels to the work bench and write on them- Left inner- Left outer, Right inner, Right outer so I can keep everything separate.  Keep an eye on how they come apart to make sure they were assembled correctly before you tear them down.  Take your time putting them together.  Also, if you one of those latex glove wearing types (I go in raw dog) then put on 2 or even 3 pairs of gloves.  When one gets super greasy you can strip it off and keep on working.

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The joys of CVs.And yeh even after doing a few CVs i still need to refer to the outfront site to see what part of the groove faces inner or outer.I only do mine yearly take apart clean inspect regrease and install.

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11 minutes ago, L.R.S. said:

(I go in raw dog) then put on 2 or even 3 pairs of gloves.  When one gets super greasy you can strip it off and keep on working.

"Raw dog" with CV grease? :lol: I used to laugh at guys that wore gloves in the garage. I now double them when doing CVs for the exact reason you mentioned. I also use the blue shop paper towels to get the bulk of the grease off and then they go into a bucket of either gasoline or diesel. Only stuff that seems to cut the grease fast.

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8 hours ago, Markha said:

"Raw dog" with CV grease? :lol: I used to laugh at guys that wore gloves in the garage. I now double them when doing CVs for the exact reason you mentioned. I also use the blue shop paper towels to get the bulk of the grease off and then they go into a bucket of either gasoline or diesel. Only stuff that seems to cut the grease fast.

I do the same with gas. Drop them in and come back later to wipe any little residue off. I also buy empty caulking gun tubes online and fill them with grease. Makes it WAY easier to get the grease in for me. 

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WD40 eats that grease fast.

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I finally gave in and tried the soak them in gas trick.  And it worked extremely well and quick.  Mind you it was race gas so that probably why it went so quick. 

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23 hours ago, matt86m said:

Outfront link posted is great.

 

Just FYI, not midboards. Stub axles

The 1st pic is What you have, Micro Stubs something like this.

The 2nd is a VW style Type 1 Stub Axle.

The micro stub is MUCH stronger then the Type 1 Stub Axle.

Micro Stub.jpg

VW Style Stub Axle.jpg

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On 1/11/2017 at 8:02 PM, Kraut_n_Rice said:

Look who is learning stuff.. lol

 

Matt LOVES to regrease CVs btw, so if you need help take them to his house..

I may not be fast,,,,but I'm slow

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Lots of rubber gloves, old clothes, soak them in gas,use disposable towels.  Me and my wife just did ours 2 months ago and the outfront instructions are the bomb.  We found it easier to use the paper instructions then watching a video.  Make sure you put the star and cages back in the right way to prevent binding.  A messy job for sure but satisfying when its all done!

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Just went through this.  Hate that job.

Buy new boots, don't bother trying to re-use them unless you like grease getting flung everywhere.

I had two oil pans.  One filled with gas, the other with paper towels in the bottom.  Clean in one, place in the other to dry, then spray with brake cleaner to get the gas residue and any sand off.

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Not to hijack but add comment about gloves. Always, always wear them when working with petroleum's and chemicals, your skin absorbs all this stuff we play with. Also the fumes we take in can come back to haunt later in life. I know, I now live with "chemical induced asthma", no fun! Take care and take precautions.

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9 minutes ago, Richard H said:

Not to hijack but add comment about gloves. Always, always wear them when working with petroleum's and chemicals, your skin absorbs all this stuff we play with. Also the fumes we take in can come back to haunt later in life. I know, I now live with "chemical induced asthma", no fun! Take care and take precautions.

I've been wearing gloves for about 18 years. I don't have all the issues with my hands cracking and bleeding as before. 

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8 minutes ago, ROBERT L said:

I've been wearing gloves for about 18 years. I don't have all the issues with my hands cracking and bleeding as before. 

Oh man... I do. I wear gloves for everything. Used to only wear them to do harsh stuff. Have been wearing them to do almost "everything" for the past 8 or 10 years and fingers still crack and bleed. Guess I should have worn them earlier in life.

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Kind of off topic, but....  I was a mechanic with Honda/Acura for 12+ years.  I always wore gloves when working "outside" of the car. One day I had to pull the radio out of a customer's car, which required removing the center console. Handful after handful  of shit emptied out to get to the bottom where the screws were at.  One of those handfuls had old dudes fake teeth in it.  Yep, wore gloves when working inside the car after that... People are gross..

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On 1/11/2017 at 9:34 PM, L.R.S. said:

Good pics on the Outfront site.  Print out some of those pics and hang them on the wall where you will rebuild the CV's so you can refer to the pics easily.  Don't waste your time 'clocking' the CV's, it's completely useless.  It's easy to get things turned around and backwards so take you time.  I tape thick blue paper shop towels to the work bench and write on them- Left inner- Left outer, Right inner, Right outer so I can keep everything separate.  Keep an eye on how they come apart to make sure they were assembled correctly before you tear them down.  Take your time putting them together.  Also, if you one of those latex glove wearing types (I go in raw dog) then put on 2 or even 3 pairs of gloves.  When one gets super greasy you can strip it off and keep on working.

I used an electric engraver to mark all mine the first time they came off. I can clean them all in one tank and put them back together on the same CV they came from. With the exception of the balls.  :sraptor:

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4 minutes ago, RIDERED said:

I used an electric engraver to mark all mine the first time they came off. I can clean them all in one tank and put them back together on the same CV they came from. With the exception of the balls.  :sraptor:

 

Engraving them works well.  Found these were on a Mosebilt I serviced last season.  I would have worded them R OUT L IN etc.

20151208_170421.jpg

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15 minutes ago, L.R.S. said:

Engraving them works well.  Found these were on a Mosebilt I serviced last season.  I would have worded them R OUT L IN etc.

20151208_170421.jpg

I marked mine like you sad. (LO LI RO RI) I did mark them on the inside so you can’t see it when its assembled and I marked the ball cage and inner star the same way. I also did it so they all line up when assembled so you don’t have to worry about them going together wrong.

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Does it matter if you swap cv bodies and parts around?  I usually keep the axles marked and put back the same way, but the cvs are a mix and match deal for me. 

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