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Honda 3.5 stored 3 years

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I had every intention to pull out the sand rail and drive it next year, 3 years ago. But the Air Force has kept me away from home and it has sat inside my AZ workshop gathering dust. I splashed some fuel stabilizer in it when I left. Next visit (March) I think I need to drain the old fuel, replace battery, fuel filters?  And see if it starts up. Any other suggestions on maintenance? New timing belt?   Thanks

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I might be inclined to throw some Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel and before I started it I would disconnect the coils and spin the motor until it had oil pressure.

Timing belt and water pump are always a good idea, but often not needed

 

Hondas are tough lil effers though. JDM motors sometimes sit for years in a salty environment.

 

Edited by Legit Duner

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Wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and run a little oil (table spoon or so) down the tube. Crank it without plugs until you see oil pressure. 

Reassemble, fresh gas, fire in the hole!

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I bought a Honda J30 from a junkyard that had been sitting a few years.  It started up but ran rough and smoked.  I ran seafoam through a vac line and smoked out my garage.  It ran like a champ after.  If it wasn't a $300 JY motor I would have spent $240 to have the injectors rebuilt here:  http://www.ausinjection.com/.

Edited by fmyth

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Like Brandon said, pull the spark plugs and put a little oil in the cylinders to loosen up the rings. I would also send the injectors off to Accurate Injector over in Havasu and have them flow tested and matched. The difference can be quite measurable when all cylinders are getting the exact same amount of fuel.

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If it starts after all above done, and seems to run rough, pull injectors, spray with wd40 and take a small pin punch and push the needle a few times, common for them to stick. I did this and all was well afterwards.

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Thanks for the suggestions, I normally take better care of my vehicles/toys and do routine maintenance. AZ is hard on tires, batteries, and old fuel left in carbs.

 

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Get it running. Then maybe think about replacing the fuel lines soon too. Not just from storage, but age.

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When I pulled my braided fuel lines off a couple of years ago to replace with PTFE they were crunchy crispy. They were about 9 years old and always had 110 race gas in them.

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I just got back into duning after a 5 year break. Gas had dried and turned into a mess when fuel was added and ran like crap, and plugged up everything. Deep Cleaned tank, and replaced everything and all is well.

Things I noted to do when I did it last year.

- I would pull the tank and clean it really good. all new lines and filters. 

- Lil mystery oil on each cyl as stated previously. 

- C/V and boot service. 

- Drain and refill coolant, I use water wetter, Rad Fluid and distilled water.

- Drain and refill Trans

- new air filter and outerwears

-  Add Sea Foam to new gas 

- Add sea foam to oil

When you fire it, sometimes they take a bit to clear up if running crappy. 

As soon as you fire it, put it in 1st gear with car on blocks and spin the wheels for about 30 sec, it makes sure the oil gets moving around the case of the trans. Best to drive it around a lil if possible to get through all gears under load. Ive been told that letting a car sit and idle is not good for the trans. 

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Lots of good info, here is a trick i also learned from firing up sitting projects. 

You may not need to service injectors, u can pull the line from the fuel pump and using a plastic syringe pump marvel mystery oil or mix up a gallon or so of 40:1 two stroke fuel and prime the fuel system. Injectors can loosen up without a problem. Unplug every coil and pull the spark plugs, turn the engine over until u can see gas vaper being forced out of the cylinder via the spark plug hole. 

Let the engine sit for an hour,  and now do an oil change. U want to make sure any fuel from priming the engine is now leaving in the old Oil. 

Now with fresh oil leave the spark plugs out, coils still disconnected and now disconnect the injectors and pull power from fuel pump, turn engine over until oil pressure gauge shows pressure. Hook everything back up and fire her for real. You now have primed the oil system and injectors and shouldnt hurt anything in the process

Edited by blackmagic250R

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