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John@Outfront Mtrsprts

So it begins, My Gen 5 summer 2018 conversion, Outfront Style

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12 hours ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

this is the upgrade to my 934 arm, note the addition of this plate allows for no part of the bar to be unsupported where yours cracked

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The cracking on the arms is a know issue and Funco will do the the fix at a very reasonable price. We had it done on our Gen 5 an a friend had their Gen 4 fixed as well.

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anyone who drives a Funco hard knows that the rear arm pivot bolts can break in half, and can wear out the uniballs. I had pretty good luck 5 years ago in asking Funco to double up on the outer uniballs, on top of that I found a lip seal that fit perfectly (I don't know the part number now). Now with a grease fitting installed in the middle it truly greases both uniballs simultaneously. This is the first time I have removed my rear arms from my current car and i'm happy to report the uniballs feel perfect and no sign of looseness.  In my previous Funco these would need to be replaced every two years from sand and grit.  Gen 4/5 uses a 1/2" bolt in this position, even an F9 bolt has a history of breaking.  Funco now uses a 9/16 bolt in the outer position, I am upgrading  both inner and outer bolts to the 9/16 F9. using a 17/32 reamer first and then a 9/16 to finish it up. As noted these are chromoly pivots so I think my reamers will be toast by the end of doing 8 holes.  I even have a crack forming on the drivers inner pivot. I will be adding additional support for the pivots shortly, I have a great idea for this, stay tuned

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You're going to make it all pretty and then not want to drive it as hard... :poke:

Looking forward to see more!

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bolt specs:

1/2-20 grade 8  torque 144# 120 KSI, clamp force 14395lbs  I would never use this bolt in my car

1/2-20 grade 9  torque  153# 144 KSI, clamp force 17,394lbs  I Just broke one of these.

9/16-18 grade 8  torque 171# 120 KSI, clamp force 18,268lbs great upgrade from the 1/2 F9 bolt

9/16-18 grade 9 torque 206# 144 KSI, clamp force 22,074lbs--the ultimate set up

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Great thread!

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On 3/29/2018 at 8:22 AM, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

I have owned 2 Funcos, my first was a gen four, bought it as a kit 11 years ago, drove it hard, had a lot of cracks, rebuilt it stronger and sold it 5 years ago. Bought a Gen 5 with custom upgrades to the frame for my driving style. Wanted a different look 2 years later, cut up the back end and made it a 2 seater with a sleeker look.  Wheel base remained the same but car length was shortened by 8". Other mods done 3 years ago was a custom 25 gallon fuel tank mounted right behind front seats, a 19X34 radiator mounted on the floor in front of the tranny. Turbo on top of the tranny, custom 6 into 2 into 1 header.  CG is super important so all parts were below the mid rail of the car.  It has remained semi painted for too long so its time for new paint. But before I paint it will go through massive mods again, some due to new cracks in crazy places--so some bars need to move. On the list of other things is a custom front end look, custom rear cage look, air ride suspension added. The intercooler will move up in the car, turbo slightly further back so I can make a new custom header. intake will be turned around. This will allow for a 5 min removal of the intercooler allowing a full view and working area for the tranny and turbo too. it will allow for a better air flow across the intercooler too. Car sports a Mendeola S5 with a Subaru flat 6 @780HP, 3" KING. custom sway bar. This thread will have tons a pics, any input, questions, dissatisfaction or suggestions welcome.  This is a learning thread, no question too dumb to ask

Well there's your problem.  Your Funco never had air bags!  No wonder you're slow. ;)

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not much going on this week, too much regular work, had some custom tabs cut to fit perfectly. this ties the mounts into multiple bars, that's the new F911 9/16 bolt, I made a few pairs if anyone is going to be repainting their car.

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How did they fit 2 uniballs?  Did they make your pivots wider than usual?

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On 3/29/2018 at 10:22 PM, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

still couldn't find green duct tape.......... I know this is crude, but I do this a lot, look at it for a few days and make changes until I like it. the turbo and intercooler will be pulled back a few more inches to the rear and header tubes from both sides will straddle the tranny and joint right in front of the starter

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If you're gonna mount your IC like that, I think a custom low profile scoop is in order.  Not necessarily for performance but for looks.  Wide and low would look bad ass.

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Nice, keep it rollin Oldtimer

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5 hours ago, CHIZZLE said:

How did they fit 2 uniballs?  Did they make your pivots wider than usual?

the two uniballs fit in the same pivot, just the spacers are shorter,  they only had to widen the snap ring grooves in the arm, but that had to happen before the arms were made. I think they have incorporated this in their current builds. mine are wearing so good with the seals that they will not be replaced even after all these last 5 years with the car!!

yes the intercooler scoop will stay low and have a look like none other.  rear lights are ordered but will take 2 weeks to get here, they are LED with orange center and low/high outer red LEDs.  I will have amber on at all times, outer low red and amber on at night and then brake lights, i may go for the corvette look with two per side

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2 hours ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

the two uniballs fit in the same pivot, just the spacers are shorter,  they only had to widen the snap ring grooves in the arm, but that had to happen before the arms were made. I think they have incorporated this in their current builds. mine are wearing so good with the seals that they will not be replaced even after all these last 5 years with the car!!

yes the intercooler scoop will stay low and have a look like none other.  rear lights are ordered but will take 2 weeks to get here, they are LED with orange center and low/high outer red LEDs.  I will have amber on at all times, outer low red and amber on at night and then brake lights, i may go for the corvette look with two per side

Interesting info on the uniballs.  Sounds like you have a solid setup.    

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I found my lights, what do you think? should I run one per side or two?

This light has Amber turn in center, low red outer for tail and bright outer red for brake. I will run Amber during the day (day light running) then when lights are turned on i will kill the amber and run low outer (the Amber at night will be too bright at night) then outer bright red for brake. the amber lights are clear when off. the upper rear cage bar has been remade and will not be removable

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Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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One per side.

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47 minutes ago, CHIZZLE said:

One per side.

what you don't like the Corvette look?  here is with one per side and a wing mocked up.  I know this stuff looks crude with duct tape but I love doing it that way, I set it up and look at it for a few days then change it up, settling on my favorite. The two horizontal cage bars will be permanently welded in the car, from there down will be removable, the motor will still come out the bottom with no intake on which is how I always pull this engine.  Lights are 3" in diameter

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Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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Why not set a row of LEDS directly into the pipe and skip the external light, make it stealth until you hit the pedals.

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I am just a little partial to the double setup. :flag:

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If lights are in a full inclosed one peace i would say two per side, if not then one per side 

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What would they look like with one of them up in the corner of the tubing and one just below it at about a 45 degree angle.  That way it would kind of flow with the tubing on the back of the car. 

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26 minutes ago, fastcorvairs said:

What would they look like with one of them up in the corner of the tubing and one just below it at about a 45 degree angle.  That way it would kind of flow with the tubing on the back of the car. 

I tried them up in the corner but doesn't look good as the bars are at an angle in that area and too little room, they would have to be like 2" offset too

 

33 minutes ago, I'm Sorry said:

If lights are in a full inclosed one peace i would say two per side, if not then one per side 

show me what you are saying

 

34 minutes ago, Turbo_Manx_Maniac said:

Why not set a row of LEDS directly into the pipe and skip the external light, make it stealth until you hit the pedals.

I am partial to the normal lights in the back and they must be on at all times the way I drive and group I dune with I want them to see me (regardless of dust/roost)  I did buy a stealth green "Knight rider" for the front, LOL

Michael Knight, "Kitt?"

Kitt, "Yes,  Michael?"

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4 minutes ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

I tried them up in the corner but doesn't look good as the bars are at an angle in that area and too little room, they would have to be like 2" offset too

 

show me what you are saying

 

I am partial to the normal lights in the back and they must be on at all times the way I drive and group I dune with I want them to see me (regardless of dust/roost)  I did buy a stealth green "Knight rider" for the front, LOL

Michael Knight, "Kitt?"

Kitt, "Yes,  Michael?"

I am partial to the normal lights in the back and they must be on at all times the way I drive and group I dune with I want them to see me (regardless of dust/roost)  I did buy a stealth green "Knight rider" for the front, LOL

Michael Knight, "Kitt?"

John John John I've had the honor of running behind you,  Your so far ahead of the rest of the group the dust roost is gone by the time we get to it.  Only time we get to see the tail lights on Your car is before we start the run.  Put a smiley face here. 

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Just like that pic. of that Vett

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46 minutes ago, Turbo_Manx_Maniac said:

Do you run a nice bright amber light for those in the rear?

Kind of

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