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John@Outfront Mtrsprts

So it begins, My Gen 5 summer 2018 conversion, Outfront Style

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well, you are all right, i was in Maine for 8 days with family , then Hawaii for 5 days for the wifes birthday,  and Lardass noted the year round Christmas lights on the house  haha.  they are awesome, 20 plus colors, etc we use them for all occasions.  The project will start going fast now as there is no other out of town excuses.  Not even doing the SSSS this year and from now on as the show is all SXS it seems

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1 hour ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

well, you are all right, i was in Maine for 8 days with family , then Hawaii for 5 days for the wifes birthday,  and Lardass noted the year round Christmas lights on the house  haha.  they are awesome, 20 plus colors, etc we use them for all occasions.  The project will start going fast now as there is no other out of town excuses.  Not even doing the SSSS this year and from now on as the show is all SXS it seems

Can't wait to see this thing done John!

:thumbup:

 

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never as funny  as I think I am. By the way the motor you guys built for my street car is running great, please tell Jeremy thanks.

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Getting ready for Powder, just doing the last things.  Dash design.  These are the cutters I use for the dash, super trick and clean.  Zero burrs.  I even have the cutters down to 3/8"  zero snagging.  How many times have you put a 1/2 drill up to a dash and then oops.  I drill a 1/8" pilot hole.  I love the recessed covers for the upper idiot lights, during the day they can be misinterpreted.  The Amber LED is a check engine light, mostly for engine protection.  If anything is outside of spec the light will come on.  these specs are predetermined by me.  For example if fuel pressure on oil pressure drops below a certain pressure that I set, the light go on.  if boost is excessive, or water temp is higher than normal.  The AEM dash will also light up but this will catch my attention ASAP.  I will be installing 3 really small blue LED's in-between the other 3 larger lights.  they will be down stream indicators for right/left cooling fans and intercooler fans. Downstream meaning the source will come from the fan output wire on the relay.  so I will be able to know when any of my fans are on or not.  It will also let me know if the relay may be bad--if my temp is high and I see no lights--im on it 

I like the ignition switch and starter buttons all by themselves, nothing to get confused if there was a full throttle incident or........... 

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Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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personally I don't like running wires through the frame and would rather have them more exposed. The radio antennae is a tough one to put in the tubes.  I had some mini shock reservoir like tabs made so you wont see zip ties around my frame.  trying out something new.

Added a few more bars before paint

final motor mount

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John the ziptie mount is great. I HATE seeing zip ties around a tube, especially on these $60k++++++ cars. Are you kidding me I spent $$$ to see zip ties all over, who's poor planning was that!

So can we buy these in bulk from you?

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Just now, DuneTrack-N said:

John the ziptie mount is great. I HATE seeing zip ties around a tube, especially on these $60k++++++ cars. Are you kidding me I spent $$$ to see zip ties all over, who's poor planning was that!

So can we buy these in bulk from you?

I had them made 3/4 years ago when I was going to paint my buggy for the last time. LOL   I will let you know, like 100?  there are other types of tabs (with a slit)  but they don't cinch down the wire good.

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ya 100 would be a good start

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OK , now that you are done traveling the globe,,,,,,whats the timeframe???

 

October / Teardown and powdercoat / Reassemble

November / 1st week...shakedown

????????????????????? Lets hear it.....I cant wait to see this car done,,,,, gonna be off the hook!

Was thinking....maybe use steelz it on the frame and repowder everything else LIME GREEN since WE ALL KNOW the new powder on the frame wont last 2 hours until you start grinding the new powder off for some other reconstruction modification!

:poule:

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19 minutes ago, POULE43 said:

OK , now that you are done traveling the globe,,,,,,whats the timeframe???

 

October / Teardown and powdercoat / Reassemble

November / 1st week...shakedown

????????????????????? Lets hear it.....I cant wait to see this car done,,,,, gonna be off the hook!

Was thinking....maybe use steelz it on the frame and repowder everything else LIME GREEN since WE ALL KNOW the new powder on the frame wont last 2 hours until you start grinding the new powder off for some other reconstruction modification!

:poule:

my son comes home from out of the states on Nov 16, so the goal is to be at the dunes for thanksgiving week "Painted"

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1 hour ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

I had them made 3/4 years ago when I was going to paint my buggy for the last time. LOL   I will let you know, like 100?  there are other types of tabs (with a slit)  but they don't cinch down the wire good.

I did something similar for the same reason. I used metal AN washers, they have a large center hole in relation to the outside diameter, that I bent up. I made a die to drop them in and bend them up then welded them to the tubing where needed. They work great and hold the wiring harness as tight as a zip tie going around the whole tube. I also used smaller ones to run my headset cords under the top tubs to the seats. 

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ZIp ties and a Funco if you own one or have worked on one then you might understand. We have a Gen 5 Funco and to do anything to the car you will have to cut a few dozen zip ties. Everything that can't be welded to the car is held on with a zip tie. If you ever wanted to know why the cars cost so much it's because they have to recover the cost of the zip ties they use to hold them together.

Since we got this car, I now call this tool the "Funco Tool" it is the most critical and used tool when working on a Funco.  :lol:

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invest in a good set of flush Cuts save yourself some scratches and possible stitches when you scrape your arm across a sharp zip tie in the dunes, I learned the hard way. Even the cheap ones from Harbor Freight will cut it so smooth you can't even feel it after u cut it.

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16 minutes ago, 2turbofords said:

invest in a good set of flush Cuts save yourself some scratches and possible stitches when you scrape your arm across a sharp zip tie in the dunes, I learned the hard way. Even the cheap ones from Harbor Freight will cut it so smooth you can't even feel it after u cut it.

I’ve been using a razor blade on the tail for years. I’ve worked with mechanics that thought it was cool to cut the tail at a angle. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve shredded my hands or arms inside a machine. 

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9 minutes ago, ROBERT L said:

I’ve been using a razor blade on the tail for years. I’ve worked with mechanics that thought it was cool to cut the tail at a angle. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve shredded my hands or arms inside a machine. 

I use nail clippers. Cuts it smooth. 

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Zip tie pliers.  Tighten and cut flush in one motion.

 

 

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Here's another option for zip ties:  https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10670/10002/-1

They have a cleaner look and once the extra is cut, it lays down flush.

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lookin good

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23 hours ago, SANDPSYCHO said:

I did something similar for the same reason. I used metal AN washers, they have a large center hole in relation to the outside diameter, that I bent up. I made a die to drop them in and bend them up then welded them to the tubing where needed. They work great and hold the wiring harness as tight as a zip tie going around the whole tube. I also used smaller ones to run my headset cords under the top tubs to the seats. 

Can you post a picture of the die you used to bend these up?

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pic 1 shows a bulkhead under the drivers seat, all SS hardline to the back of the car.  Power steering supply and return, brake and clutch.

pic 2 I added one more bent bar to close off the cage, the triangle will be left open, I think it looks good

pic 3 shows the extra tranny supports, tranny and motor mounts are .250" chromoly, a few extra gussets and cross bars

pic 4 im adding a small trunk in the front of the car, tabs only for now, panels to be made later. with 4 simple tabs to remove the front end will open up to tow strap, zip ties, tools etc. the large 2.5 strap material is for headlights (and future headlights) so the mounting tab is large to drill holes in multiple areas.  going to use my ACRO HIDs first, I think it will look and perform well.

pic 5 is the front shock mount gusset. I have had them reinforced to .250 tabs...they were still cracking. well....................

car is coming apart for powder now.  with any luck it will be ready to leave Tuesday night!

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Car is a bare frame, taking care of any last incomplete welds, dinkal berries, etc.  Going for powder coating in the AM--there is only one color!

hoping for a 1 week turn around.

Rear rim stiffeners  just got made, solid because i'm running 15's so the caliper would hit if it was any smaller on the ID  .5" thick .800" thick  will require a little notching of the rear arm plates

Not happy with all the weight I put into my car, guessing 50 lbs.  the air ride alone was probably 25lbs.  I will weigh my frame in the morning, anyone take a guess?

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Cool. Easy to see all the changes to the frame in those pictures. 

Was it originally a 4 seater? I’m sure you probably said that somewhere in this thread.  Just noticed the new tubing where it looks like you would get in and out. 

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I think you should powder coat it green. :bigrin

 

Great work, I look forward to watching it go together. 

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2 hours ago, jo blo said:

Cool. Easy to see all the changes to the frame in those pictures. 

Was it originally a 4 seater? I’m sure you probably said that somewhere in this thread.  Just noticed the new tubing where it looks like you would get in and out. 

yes was a gen 5, 4 seater.  closed off the back  seats years ago.  wheel base stayed the same but car looks super small compared to a current V8 Funco.  my cage only protrudes maybe 6" past the back of the tire.  Do you notice the big X through the center of the car and a lot more triangulation throughout.  Look at the four bars that come up from the motor/trans mount area. they all four tie together at a super strong point of the car.  2 of these bars (in front of the CV are not there in current cars) and the 2 bars behind the CV go up and out to the side rails of the car.  I have had issues with the two lower bars cracking that hold my motor and trans.  since I have done this--no more cracks

Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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