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John@Outfront Mtrsprts

So it begins, My Gen 5 summer 2018 conversion, Outfront Style

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Just now, Air450 said:

When I had UMP's on my car I never found any sand inside laying there. They were both pointed up.

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Some how the sand must fall out that drain nipple during normal driving!:dunno:

I think its cause you drive so fast it doesn't have a chance!  BTW look at that roost and tell me how it wouldn't force sand through a non protected filter that is 1 foot lower? it would be worse for a filter on the right side in this pic

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Are you routing the bottom of the catch back to the motor via rh valve cover?

 

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yes, for years now, its not quite the same as street cars.  mainly it allows any moisture high up in that valve cover to get vented too. Because the filter is up on top the moisture leaves easily.  In street AOS they are not vented on top so the moisture would return to the motor, so it has a drain 

Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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hey john, on your braking issues, have you measured your brake pressures at all? under extreme use the mark to shoot for is 1200 psi.

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23 minutes ago, Kevin said:

hey john, on your braking issues, have you measured your brake pressures at all? under extreme use the mark to shoot for is 1200 psi.

I like numbers.  Where did you get that figure?  Now I may want to put in a pressure port so I could monitor the bias too! 

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That would give me good Intel. If I only see 900 then I could put in as smaller master cylinder bores. If I see way over and dont like my breaking still, then I need more caliper and pad

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8 hours ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

I like numbers.  Where did you get that figure?  Now I may want to put in a pressure port so I could monitor the bias too! 

thats what wilwood recommends for their brake systems. i have talked with roger lamb at lamb components about it before as well and he told me similiar numbers. 1200-1400 is what i was told by roger when i was building my superstocker.

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4 hours ago, Kevin said:

thats what wilwood recommends for their brake systems. i have talked with roger lamb at lamb components about it before as well and he told me similiar numbers. 1200-1400 is what i was told by roger when i was building my superstocker.

Good info.  Yeah with a single piston system you know when there is a leak or bad master.  With a dual system you could have one side not working and the pedal may still somewhat firm.  I will add some permanent mini gauges!

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On 4/11/2019 at 2:30 PM, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

UMP air filter results are in, this is a true 550HP subie motor, Stroker, ported heads, billet cams, yada yada (don't compare to other 550 packages out there)

after the dyno was done we got 543 HP at the engine at 20.4psi with the  UMP installed.  the goal was to see the HP loss if any.  We took the filter assy off all together and made a few pulls.  We netted 561 engine HP  (+18HP) but it appears that was "not" because of just the filter restriction.  without the filter it made 21.1 psi of boost.  the higher boost made more HP.  Regardless of how you think we could have over come the loss of HP "with" the filter by simply adding more boost (to 21.1psi) and would feel it would have made the same HP at that boost level.

Car is off to the dunes now

we did not try it with a K&N or S&B installed

Still a 2d with 930's?

 

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1 hour ago, CHIZZLE said:

Still a 2d with 930's?

 

yes,  at the higher boost levels that is a lot to demand from those 2 items above.  driven hard it could take both tranny and cv's for a lot more service .  tranny should be serviced at least once every 3 years and CV should be inspected and serviced every 2 years (and I predict it will require some parts each CV service)   He had his first trip out and said that even 12/13 psi was way more than his car had before at his highest boost level,  perhaps Ryan will comment?  if he runs at 12-16 psi most of the time he may extend some of that service

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So I took the car out last weekend to break in the motor and all I can say is WOW! It literally is like driving a different car and I only ran it at 9psi with no more then 50% throttle. The crazy part about that was I was still able to almost lose people in my group and provide an “E” ticket ride. I cannot wait until St Anthony in June when I can turn up the boost to a mild 12-14 psi and see what this thing does. As far as the CV’s and tranny, I feel like I might get more life out of them as I am not having to push the car as hard  and I can be a lot more fluid in my drive style. Of course, I am not one to drop the clutch but rather roll onto the throttle. 

I want to give a big thanks to John and his team! I could not be more happy and had  zero oil leaks or issues after the first trip. 

As far as the UMP filter, I ran the car all weekend and even followed another car on a ride and my filter looks brand new like it just came out of the package. This thing really works and I can see why most Baja racers recommend them.

Ryan

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so how was ur trip ? salt lake

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25 minutes ago, I'm Sorry said:

so how was ur trip ? salt lake

great, but how did you know I went to Salt Lake?

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8 hours ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

great, but how did you know I went to Salt Lake?

i saw u driving down the center of the freeway going around traffic :moof:

 

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no u mentioned it on another topic, so i'm glad u had a good time

 

Driving to SLC Utah for my first grandchild 's baptism. A quick family get together.  Then dinner, then turn around and go back home. 

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Edited by I'm Sorry

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Wow, summer is gone and must be getting back to the dunes,  just had some maintenance  to do  and some small upgrades.

first pic I added a 5/8 SS tube to both breathers (a balance tube)  doesn't do much now but the stock subie 6 cylinder, unlike the 4 cylinder, does not have a main crankcase breather.  Only valve covers.  I am working on a replacement/upgrade motor and tapped the top of the block for an additional engine  breather.  I will eventually be tapped into this tube.

I might add that lots of old subies still have their valve covers blocked off--this is not recommended as no crankcase pressure is good pressure. so change out your block off plates and get some nice outfront breathers.  Think about this....all the air the tops of the pistons are moving in and out of the motor, the bottom of the pistons are moving the same amount of air just back and forth inside the engine, that is like a tornado going on in their.  the more pressure you can evacuate, the better

2,3 and 4th pic is just a new intake tube from intercooler to throttle body.  this is SS and will be polished later! I love the look of this pipe now and creates a perfect cross flow of air in the intercooler, as the turbo discharges into the center of the intercooler on the other side.

the last two pics, I decide to upgrade my front caliper from the standard issue Funco units to a ProAm unit.  I have my old calipers for sale/spares for $80 a pair

I did put some larger injectors in with anticipation of running more horsepower so going to have to redyno to skew in the new injector flow, last year my boost controller was not working and my injectors were really to small to use it anyways---so this year both will be working!

 

stay tuned for my new engine build going to start next week.  I am also working on making larger alternator and PS pullies.  I had issues with blowing out an alternator and Power steering pumps last year.  I truly believe its because I have sustained higher rpms than most.  I am making my 2.380 alternator pulley a 3" version and the power steering pulley from 4.25" to 5.25"

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Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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Nice work! New motor? Thought this one your running now was the unicorn u have been building all along? What is the current redline that u have seen for RPMs?  

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4 hours ago, 2turbofords said:

Nice work! New motor? Thought this one your running now was the unicorn u have been building all along? What is the current redline that u have seen for RPMs?  

redline is 8100rpm with current cams, it is the first unicorn I have been running all along, even from beginning of the 2017/2018 season, so its 2 years old.   now the motor I am building has upgrades in a few areas than my current motor.  more porting, bigger cams (maybe higher rpm now), bigger injectors, nitrated crank shaft. longer connecting rods and different brand, bigger valve springs and ss/Inconel  valves, etc.

this is the new crankcase breather port I added.  it is centered right above the main bearing bulkhead

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Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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So, between the new motor build, bigger injectors, and working boost controller, are you looking at significantly more power with the new setup?

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27 minutes ago, kazuaki said:

So, between the new motor build, bigger injectors, and working boost controller, are you looking at significantly more power with the new setup?

I ran 650hp at 13psi for the last year and 1/2, even any races that I had (LOL) I was at near 800hp before at 18psi but that was on the ragged edge of lots of different things (injectors way too small, valve springs were some combination I came up with just to get by, valve quality was basically stock etc).    All those things are being  upgraded.  about Feb of 2018 I did a 5th  gear pass at 8100rpm across pad 3, it was the most intense pass I have done (don't ask how fast I was going) I burnt a valve during that pass (too light of spring pressure, stock valves and too small of injectors for that HP).  I have not done that again. but plan to this fall, just fixed my boost controller too. so to answer your question I will be at least 800hp and more reliable than I was before.  This motor should take some abuse considering my previous motor has  whimpy parts and is still going strong today.  in fact I will be dynoing it on the current motor to get the tune really close (less abuse for my new motor)!

Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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found this pulley off of a 1990 GM product, same shaft size, off set is a little different so I welded on this spacer, and machined the inside of the pulley so the nut could go on.  came out nice--hey free HP

and estimate my alternator to spin 30% slower as my motor spins 30% faster than normal.  worst case scenario is idle.  a stock motor runs at 700 rpm, my motor idles at 1000, do the math.

how much hp saved, probably just a few  my guess 1-4hp but what I do know is my alternators will last longer

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Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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So I have been using my Snap-on smoker a lot lately and have been finding leaks that I thought were never there.  yesterday we found 8 holes leaking in a leading edge intercooler,  someone put too long of screws in for the scoop and poked 8 holes in the core.  we tore out the fins of that outer row and installed an aluminum plate up against the holes with jb weld.  we checked my own car and found 3 leaks!  one at my BOV connection, one at a hose clamp that looked perfectly installed (a T-bolt clamp non the less) and one at an air temp sensor where the cooper crush washer wasn't centered before tightening.  boost leaks before the throttle body are not crazy bad as they are only leaking air out (generally never in a vacuum state, so not sucking sand)  but it will affect spool up time.  boost would have always  been the same as before, it would just be taking longer and the turbo working harder than it should.

 

this is an invaluable tool.  We offer this as a free charge on any motor that we are installing in a buggy.  just another advantage for bringing your car to Outfront Motorsports

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11 hours ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

found this pulley off of a 1990 GM product, same shaft size, off set is a little different so I welded on this spacer, and machined the inside of the pulley so the nut could go on.  came out nice--hey free HP

and estimate my alternator to spin 30% slower as my motor spins 30% faster than normal.  worst case scenario is idle.  a stock motor runs at 700 rpm, my motor idles at 1000, do the math.

how much hp saved, probably just a few  my guess 1-4hp but what I do know is my alternators will last longer

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Great mines think alike John.   Mine is a little more  DIY but should work.  Cut the back half of a stock Subaru pulley off and welded it to the back half of a Ford pulley.  

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1 hour ago, fastcorvairs said:

Great mines think alike John.   Mine is a little more  DIY but should work.  Cut the back half of a stock Subaru pulley off and welded it to the back half of a Ford pulley.  

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nice.  my machinist said i shouldnt  weld my spacer to the pulley i bought. he said the pulley was made from a steel called "leadlow"  or something like that.  never heard of that before but welded it anyways.  i bolted the spacer and pulley on an old armature to center.  it had a little more run out then i expected but while running you really cant see any issue.  looks real good.  i will probably do another one and not weld it to see the difference

Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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Spacers are common on the alternator pulley.  Never welded one. 

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