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John@Outfront Mtrsprts

So it begins, My Gen 5 summer 2018 conversion, Outfront Style

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I would definitely go with the second (yore) version.  That way you only have two  sets of welds to the side of a pipe (stub on)  instead of three.  Also aesthetically  I like the smoother look over the "double" step down. 

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On 3/29/2018 at 8:47 AM, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

the first three years with the Gen 5 was a tranny rebuild every year at about $3-4 k each time.  I feel half of that was the product itself, then I got 2.5 years out of the last one. The abuse in my tranny is not good, and will not get better.  I have a fix for the cracks in your arm, this gusset set works great. I even did it to my 934 arms when I was assembling it the first time. that is a common problem because their is about 2" of tube with no support, This bracket kit we make fixes that. pics shown are of a customers car we did awhile ago, he chose not to remove arms for chroming, so they are raw. Note his was the first fix we did, the new kit has 2 pieces per arm. makes them super strong

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John, Just to be clear the big piece goes on the bottom somewhat in the center? On the big piece are you welding the entire length or spaces in between the welds? Thanks

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3 hours ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

here is the traditional Funco cage, my hoop is shorter and wider than this one, the last two pics of the typical buggy but with a slight dog leg and lowered the tow bar

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I like how the Funco way matches the rest of the car, what if you were to have a bend in your design where the mid cross bar is so that the vertical bars come almost straight up then bend out to where you have them contacting the hoop you put on 

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3 hours ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

well im anti skid plate, they act like snow shoes and keep you on top of the sand during a g-out, so no go there. And that motor is super sexy! may I say all go and no show? I did one more pic with a slight bend in the two vertical bars

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Wouldn't it be better to have a skid plate hit rather then the bottom of the motor take that force? As for the motor maybe you can get someone to paint a mural on it. :lol: 

Edited by SANDPSYCHO

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Can you eliminate that second bar?  Here's my iPhone scribble.  You could put your lights in the empty spaces in the corners without "frenching" them into a bunch of aluminum.  

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Theres just no excuse to use that ugly grey duct tape I found this neon green duck tape at Walmart 

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2 hours ago, onanysunday said:

John, Just to be clear the big piece goes on the bottom somewhat in the center? On the big piece are you welding the entire length or spaces in between the welds? Thanks

it does go on the bottom, we welded it the whole way, im sure small sections would do too

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1 hour ago, CHIZZLE said:

Can you eliminate that second bar?  Here's my iPhone scribble.  You could put your lights in the empty spaces in the corners without "frenching" them into a bunch of aluminum.  

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no, I needed a little more space in my cage area, when I shorten my frame 3 years ago I got a little overzealous and the cage was too close to my engine, the bar that is tacked in now extends 2 more inches back and give me a little more room between cage and motor. that bar will stay.  the way you drew it is how it was before (and that's too close)

Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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7 minutes ago, arch stanton said:

Theres just no excuse to use that ugly grey duct tape I found this neon green duck tape at Walmart 

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I like how you guys are getting personally involved and are thinking outside the box

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2 hours ago, jugernaut said:

I like how the Funco way matches the rest of the car, what if you were to have a bend in your design where the mid cross bar is so that the vertical bars come almost straight up then bend out to where you have them contacting the hoop you put on 

I think this is what you are referring to ?

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2 hours ago, SANDPSYCHO said:

Wouldn't it be better to have a skid plate hit rather then the bottom of the motor take that force? As for the motor maybe you can get someone to paint a mural on it. :lol: 

no I reinforce the oil pan with 3/16 plate, between the oil pan and too bars I would rather those go into the sand and save my back than to have the skid plate protect my motor and hurt my back.  No mural needed you will see. :p

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ok or is it this way?  This probably looks the best but does leave my motor most exposed, looks?

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I like it this way best.  Looks like you'll have more protection to the sexy timming chain cover also. Got to think about them over zealous drivers following you to the hill getting to close and doing damage to them.  O-Snap wasn't thinking, no one can get that close to the pale green car to do damage.  :coocoo:

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9 hours ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

no, I needed a little more space in my cage area, when I shorten my frame 3 years ago I got a little overzealous and the cage was too close to my engine, the bar that is tacked in now extends 2 more inches back and give me a little more room between cage and motor. that bar will stay.  the way you drew it is how it was before (and that's too close)

Yes, I was able to see that from the side pics.  But you could put another bend in it to get the clearance you need.  The current stuff looks good from the back but there's something about the side views that I'm not wild about.  Maybe it's that goofy wing. ;)

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Mural on the timing chain cover either needs quad nipples, rolling eyes :eye1: or rockets :lol:

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Try lowering the mid bar, and put make the bottom bars come out some more before bending up to meet the mid bar. Alumicraft's rear cages are really good, I like how the mid bar is "sticks out" to make a bumper.

 

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There is a series of small but important upgrades I did to my car that would be easy to upgrade, there was a thread of this long ago but when the GD site went down many pics were lost.

I have cracked way too many seat frames before. seats frames are made from mild steel, you can special request them from Chrome-Moly, but does did not last either, what worked the best was to have upper seat tabs welded in.  I would guess having a frame made out of mild steel with tabs would be cheaper and better than a seat from chrome-moly with no upper tabs

also note the 1" x-brace through the dead center of my car, I feel a lot safer with this in there

 

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This is must and is only 1 hour of your time. these two pics are of the steering rack support. the right side is the most important and easiest to do. the bar below the rack will crack completely out. they upgraded this bar to .120 wall a while back but then I broke that one out too. my bar is a whopping .188 wall and weighs a ton. regardless this tab is an easy upgrade before paint.

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10 hours ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

no I reinforce the oil pan with 3/16 plate, between the oil pan and too bars I would rather those go into the sand and save my back than to have the skid plate protect my motor and hurt my back.  No mural needed you will see. :p

My car grounds out all the time when I transition up a steep hill which is why I'm interested in this subject. I will have to try running without the skid plate. I'll put a coat of paint on my oil pan an see where the paint gets rubbed off. To be safe I'll bring one of my extra oil pans.  My skid plate actually has a worn indentation (not dented but ground away) where it has hit the sand so much. 

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dual brake master cylinders are a must. with out them if you have any failure of a line, fluid leaking from a caliper or having a whole corner tore off---you are toast, no brakes. I once landed so hard I sheared both upper and lower front heims off at the same time, there went my wheel, hub, caliper down the hill. granted it really didn't need much brakes at that moment, but if you're out in the dunes a brake line gets yanked off, or fails you still have some brakes to get home.

this is tough to do to your car if it was built with one but is well worth the peace of mind

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4 hours ago, fastcorvairs said:

I like it this way best.  Looks like you'll have more protection to the sexy timming chain cover also. Got to think about them over zealous drivers following you to the hill getting to close and doing damage to them.  O-Snap wasn't thinking, no one can get that close to the pale green car to do damage.  :coocoo:

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I agree that looks much better!

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13 minutes ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

There is a series of small but important upgrades I did to my car that would be easy to upgrade, there was a thread of this long ago but when the GD site went down many pics were lost.

I have cracked way too many seat frames before. seats frames are made from mild steel, you can special request them from Chrome-Moly, but does did not last either, what worked the best was to have upper seat tabs welded in.  I would guess having a frame made out of mild steel with tabs would be cheaper and better than a seat from chrome-moly with no upper tabs

also note the 1" x-brace through the dead center of my car, I feel a lot safer with this in there

 

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This is a great idea. I have had my seat frame break. When I had the seat repaired they said they would gusset it so it would be stronger, time will tell. If (when) it breaks again, I will have to have this done to the seat. Only bad part is I'll have to go back to PRP. :coocoo:

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the battery switch at the back of the car or a hard to reach area like inside a door etc is not helpful if you had an emergency. I once had a loose metal object rolling arounfd the floor of my car. it happened to lodge between my battery disconnect and the SS clutch line. it killed my car, hmmm I get out and the next thing I see is smoke coming from my car, the clutch line is now orange for about 6" I kill the battery switch, throwing sand, freeking out. I pause for a moment and then its getting oranger!. now im really freeking out. I try yanking the battery cables off my car (all the while thinking what the crap is going on) I couldn't pull them off. I had to get tools out and quickly disconnect. after relaxing for a moment I realized the metal object was on the battery side of the switch so it didn't help to turn it off.

Well anyways my battery switch is within arms length when im seat belted in, its also 4" off the ground for future rolling objects.

the damage was my clutch line needed to be replaced as it sprung a leak

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This pics shows use of grade 9 bolts everywhere. the spacer you see added allows my bolt to have full shank through the hub assembly. it will be tigged onto the hub during this build. I think it makes it the same length as the arm to chassis bolts too, helps to have one size fits all locations.

front bead locks are for a purpose!

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replacing the fuel filter on gen 3/4/5 cars has always been a poor location. They should be changed once a year. This location with a welded tab makes life a lot easier and will work with rear seats too. if youre changing fuel lines (like going to e85) change the location

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