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John@Outfront Mtrsprts

So it begins, My Gen 5 summer 2018 conversion, Outfront Style

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14 hours ago, onanysunday said:

So I have a question about the fill tube coming disconnected. I ditched the clear tubing years ago and use a genuine fill hose that replaces the original tube. I have to think that tank would have to move a long way to breach that hose or connection. Never heard of this and it would have to be a knarly crash. Of course that tank is only held in with (4) 1/4 inch bolts but in a 4 seater like mine the seats help hold it down by pushing on the console. What exactly happened in the crash you mentioned? Funco chassis or different? Thanks

it was not a Funco, If I recall the driver veered to miss a car at a high rate of speed, the car barrel rolled multiple times, the fill neck was connected by a short piece of hose, when the frame bent it pulled the filler out of the hose and fuel was being sprayed all around, I do not have names, dates or type of car. it was long ago but the story has always been fresh in my mind. when you see the hose on my filler, its not just connected via a piece of hose, the two aluminum tubes slip into each other so the neck doesn't really flex, the hose is only to seal the two.  it needs to come out separately to get my tank out.  my tank is also strapped in by 4 straps, only two shown in pic

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had some custom tabs laser cut, now installed :)

this back section will be skinned with aluminum and perhaps cut the "Outfront" in the center and have it back lit. anyone have any good ideas of what I can mount back there like some kind of semi transparent plastic? I copied the Bugatti Veyron!

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Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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How about a piece of Lexan, you can add LED's into the edges and make it glow whatever color you like. Have OutFront routered into the center so it glows differently. You can heat it to form almost any shape.

Problem is nobody's ever close enough to you to read it unless you're stopped. ?

A soft green glow would be cool.

Edited by Turbo_Manx_Maniac

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2 hours ago, Turbo_Manx_Maniac said:

How about a piece of Lexan, you can add LED's into the edges and make it glow whatever color you like. Have OutFront routered into the center so it glows differently. You can heat it to form almost any shape.

Problem is nobody's ever close enough to you to read it unless you're stopped. ?

A soft green glow would be cool.

yeah the area is completely flat, I would have the name laser cut in the aluminum and the panel will be green so maybe something dark but can light up?  any body have something like this?

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mocking up new turbo and intercooler location prepping for the  header.  The new locations give me more working area, but most of all I will be able to take the intercooler off in 5 min and have the entire top of the tranny/engine assy exposed for easy servicing!  the outlet on the intercooler will be two 2" tubes going down to one on the throttle body. I will fabricate the whole stainless steel header here, all tubes and flanges on the way!

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Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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working on my one off custom SS header, I have made my own custom headers in the past and was going to send it out but my Fab/welder has improved a lot with his TIG and asked to keep it in house.  note: he built a purge block just for it, stage one is coming out nicely. This setup will have two vband clamps (one per side) so the turbo and main "Y" will stay in he car for easier engine removal. The purge block helps with "sugar" welds, an expression used for what the TIG weld looks like when exposed to normal air during the weld process (like inside the tube). My guy was wearing a mask while doing this primary pipe, says that the gases from SS welding are really bad for you, one of the worst.  Maybe that's why I have been twitching for 10 years when I did my last SS header!  I just order lots of tubing in 2 different radius. Will crack the collector apart to finish each tube individually, then weld together

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Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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Very nice John.

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That is purdy

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Finished up the primaries today, each going to a  2" vband clamp.  You typically don't see pipes going through were the clutch slave cylinder goes but I like to think out of the box.  One of the biggest issues I have with DIY guys is they put a band aid on top of a bandaid.  for example I see headers cut up and remade (weaker and ugly) because they don't want to cut one bar out of the cage. or they will make intercooler lines extra long because all they can work with is 90 pipes and lots of clamps, etc. The clutch slave will be 1 foot away and nounted horizontal with a long rod.  What I would normally see is someone say hey I cant move the slave so lets add 12" more of exhaust pipe and go around it :rbj:  there are always compromises and budgets but this project just takes a little more time.  The Vband clamps come off easy even though there is only .75" on both sides of the clamp between the frame and the bellhousing. the primaries also allow all engine/tranny bolts to come off without removal.  I have never really used a turbo with Vband flanges on the exhaust housing before but now is the time as it couldn't  be cleaner.  Then to have the final "Y" come together into a single round pipe and into the turbo vband flange.  looking at the Tial light weight SS exhaust housing

These primaries pipes took about 3 hours per side to make after about 1 hour per side thinking about just exactly I wanted to place the collectors. No they are not equal length and on a Subaru it would be super hard as the ports in the head are even different lengths from valves to header  gasket.  Specs.  1.75" 304 SS primary pipes, 2" 304 SS secondary pipes.  3/8" SS flanges. target is 800hp

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Edited by John@Outfront Mtrsprts

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That is very well thought out and real prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrde.  

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On ‎6‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 6:36 PM, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

Finished up the primaries today, each going to a  2" vband clamp.  You typically don't see pipes going through were the clutch slave cylinder goes but I like to think out of the box.  One of the biggest issues I have with DIY guys is they put a band aid on top of a bandaid.  for example I see headers cut up and remade (weaker and ugly) because they don't want to cut one bar out of the cage. or they will make intercooler lines extra long because all they can work with is 90 pipes and lots of clamps, etc. The clutch slave will be 1 foot away and nounted horizontal with a long rod.  What I would normally see is someone say hey I cant move the slave so lets add 12" more of exhaust pipe and go around it :rbj:  there are always compromises and budgets but this project just takes a little more time.  The Vband clamps come off easy even though there is only .75" on both sides of the clamp between the frame and the bellhousing. the primaries also allow all engine/tranny bolts to come off without removal.  I have never really used a turbo with Vband flanges on the exhaust housing before but now is the time as it couldn't  be cleaner.  Then to have the final "Y" come together into a single round pipe and into the turbo vband flange.  looking at the Tial light weight SS exhaust housing

These primaries pipes took about 3 hours per side to make after about 1 hour per side thinking about just exactly I wanted to place the collectors. No they are not equal length and on a Subaru it would be super hard as the ports in the head are even different lengths from valves to header  gasket.  Specs.  1.75" 304 SS primary pipes, 2" 304 SS secondary pipes.  3/8" SS flanges. target is 800hp

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Prob a dumb question but with the turbo sitting right on top of the trans and knowing how hard you run the car John could it be possible the heat from the turbo would increase the trans fluid temps? Or is that just thinking to much into it? Love watching your skills John and crew

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no, all questions are welcome, this is a learning forum. I wish more people would ask questions.  I stick my neck out by even posting all this stuff and risk being scrutinized for what and how I approach things. 

    Think about how close you can put your fingers near a header, or a turbo housing for that matter (they can get to 1300 degrees), you really can get within a 1/2" and not really feel much, also any air that is blowing points the heat towards the engine, and not at the tranny.  If I was to be a betting man I would say maybe 10-20 degrees.  The ecu I am using, and making a new harness for,  will also track tranny and fuel temps and  air temps pre and post the intercooler and will put pressure transducers for the air pressure/vacuum pre turbo (to monitor air filter performance or clogging) and will also be tracking exhaust back pressure pre turbo, I will even put one in the cooling system to monitor water pressure.

Some EJ series Subaru motor has plastic timing covers that melt, they melt because air is passing over the header and towards the covers (like a back draft) and the covers cant take that kind of heat, and a tranny is already at, near the typical 180 deg temps that a motor runs at.

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as in one pic above my collectors are very close to my frame bars and would bet that there will be zero discoloration at .75" away, even after a long time.  Great question

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I love how you are doing the exhaust and everything, so clean.  As for the heat, I think I would be more worried about slave cylinder than the tranny.  How far can you extend that out?

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8 minutes ago, Cookie said:

I love how you are doing the exhaust and everything, so clean.  As for the heat, I think I would be more worried about slave cylinder than the tranny.  How far can you extend that out?

that is easy, got that one figured out--stay tuned

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lower water line, 1.25" at motor, stepped up to 1.375 mid way and finally 1.5 at radiator, haven't really found a reason to have to be 1.5" all the time and 1.25 bends are a lot tighter as I needed to work around the rear arm pivot.  In the second pic I added a tube stop to the right of the clamp. it allows easy install in the exact location every time and was simple.  In the third pic you and see the old 1.5 water line coming out of the frame, a blur--as I had water running through a portion of the frame, this is being removed.  the water line clears the CV boot by 3/8" at full droop, even with pulling and pushing on boot at worst case scenario of flexing.  I love these weld on shock reservoir mounts for fuel filters and water lines, make for a secure tube that is not shaking the nipples on the radiator. There is a lot of weight to a tube with water in it and hard driving

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love reading this topic 

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John thanks for all the tech info, some of the best threads. I/we don't ask many question because you spell out your thought process every time and it always make scene to me.

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On ‎6‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 8:52 AM, DuneTrack-N said:

John thanks for all the tech info, some of the best threads. I/we don't ask many question because you spell out your thought process every time and it always make scene to me.

right on, thanks ^^^^^

the turbo comes in next week, really at a stand still on the exhaust until then, going with a new Precision Gen 2 turbo. slave is remote mounted to clear exhaust, cut and bent the clutch arm for better angle in the new pull direction

 

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Hey john i may need some cooling lines fabbed up can you do that?I dont want to attempt it myself one may close to 3 ft the other about 2 ft bot will need a 90 then mild couple of bends after that its for my honda swap.

 

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Love what you did with the clutch slave. I also love the weld in reservoir mounts and have used them on my water lines. 

Thanks for going to the trouble to post all of this. It takes time and that is something most have little of. 

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1 hour ago, 77charger said:

Hey john i may need some cooling lines fabbed up can you do that?I dont want to attempt it myself one may close to 3 ft the other about 2 ft bot will need a 90 then mild couple of bends after that its for my honda swap.

 

Yes, just did one for an eco tech in a Baja, typical is 2 hours and materials

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1 hour ago, SANDPSYCHO said:

Love what you did with the clutch slave. I also love the weld in reservoir mounts and have used them on my water lines. 

Thanks for going to the trouble to post all of this. It takes time and that is something most have little of. 

thanks, nothing worth posting this week as I am still waiting on my special turbo, there was a delay, should be here on Monday, then a lot more pics

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1 hour ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

Yes, just did one for an eco tech in a Baja, typical is 2 hours and materials

Sounds good I'll get with you as I get closer I'm only 10 min from your shop. I'll spend that much in hoses and pre made to get same results but won't look clean and will give me hell figuring it out. I'm about. Month out as I got the big stuff done and I'm going on vacation tomorrow for the week. 

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Looks slick! What Subi motor is that John? Never seen a 6 cylinder before... 

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