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sausage450r

Sausage’s tips for tig welding alumn.

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1 minute ago, sausage450r said:

I am starting to experience this same thing when playing softball and shooting my bow

For welding go the dollar store and buy some reading glasses I started with 175. You can test them by looking about the same distance from the chart as you weld. DON~~~ 

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Thanks.

I made some aluminum ramps that was brand new aluminum and played with that setting some because I was getting a lot of the cleaning affect. I wound up going back to where I originally had it, mostly because I think I was taking it to far one way or the other instead of fine tuning. I'll play with that some more. 

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37 minutes ago, jo blo said:

Thanks.

I made some aluminum ramps that was brand new aluminum and played with that setting some because I was getting a lot of the cleaning affect. I wound up going back to where I originally had it, mostly because I think I was taking it to far one way or the other instead of fine tuning. I'll play with that some more. 

On miller syncrowave knob turned to left is more cleaning (harder on tungsten and machine), knob to right smaller cone more focused arc. There is usually a green line on the dial face that represents 60%

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On 4/2/2018 at 9:53 PM, jo blo said:

Thanks.

I made some aluminum ramps that was brand new aluminum and played with that setting some because I was getting a lot of the cleaning affect. I wound up going back to where I originally had it, mostly because I think I was taking it to far one way or the other instead of fine tuning. I'll play with that some more. 

Even new alum. will have some oxidizing on it. Sand the surface off before you weld. DON~~~

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3 hours ago, donparscale said:

Even new alum. will have some oxidizing on it. Sand the surface off before you weld. DON~~~

I use scotch brite pad on weld surface and on my rod. Then clean with acetone. Dont ever use brake cleaner for this. It makes a poisonous gas as you weld. Aluminum starts to oxidize immediately. Oxidation on the surface has a higher melting point than the bare aluminum. Cleaning action of the machine breaks this apart in front of the weld. That is what the white chalky substance is. 

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On ‎4‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 8:45 PM, donparscale said:

For welding go the dollar store and buy some reading glasses I started with 175. You can test them by looking about the same distance from the chart as you weld. DON~~~ 

They also have magnifier lens you can get at welding shop that goes inside your hood. They work well and are available in different strengths. 

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6 hours ago, Richard H said:

They also have magnifier lens you can get at welding shop that goes inside your hood. They work well and are available in different strengths. 

These are referred to as cheater lenses. They replace your clear inner lenses. I have a few welders that work for me that I need to order them for

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9 hours ago, punkur67 said:

These are referred to as cheater lenses. They replace your clear inner lenses. I have a few welders that work for me that I need to order them for

Mine is not a replacement rather it adheres to the inside lens with small glue strips. Make for easy change and update as vision continues to fade.

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Posted (edited)

Did some tig therapy tonight. 

Heres how i do cans: 

Machine setup: 11 amps  balance 80 frequency 170 Hertz

torch #9 torch with .040 2% lanthanated tungsten (tip sharpened to point 40* or so). #7 cup (no filter) flowing argon at 20cfh 

1/16 5356 tig rod 

go challenge yoreself! 

Im a but rusty, havent played in a year or two

 

first i drill relief holes, then clean up anondizing with purple (medium) 3” scotchbrite disk. Tack (i prefer 2 180* apart)  and go! You may wanna rinse and dry inside, im lazy though

5E62CF8F-835B-4187-8D06-2B640A71A8C8.thumb.jpeg.551f78615877d58e1ffc0788713a3f9a.jpeg064094C8-7037-432A-95B2-7A7ECDC0031D.thumb.jpeg.47e05e5151cc150186c993bd9873a080.jpeg6C1B5CA4-4FCE-420E-8AE5-9A1B6519F742.thumb.jpeg.15b4a1320e9bb97799d3a16b8b13096f.jpegFE55F44D-2C68-478D-B9C4-9EFAAA9A29CB.thumb.jpeg.03bfdc30b51db9bc36210ce03d25d21b.jpeg

Edited by sausage450r

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5 minutes ago, sausage450r said:

Did some tig therapy tonight. 

Heres how i do cans: 

Machine setup: 11 amps  balance 80 frequency 170 Hertz

torch #9 torch with .040 2% lanthanated tungsten. #7 cup (no filter) flowing argon at 20cfh 

1/16 5356 tig rod 

go challenge yoreself! 

Im a but rusty, havent played in a year or two

 

first i drill relief holes, then clean up anondizing with purple (medium) 3” scotchbrite disk. Tack (i prefer 2 180* apart)  and go! You may wanna rinse and dry inside, im lazy though

5E62CF8F-835B-4187-8D06-2B640A71A8C8.thumb.jpeg.551f78615877d58e1ffc0788713a3f9a.jpeg064094C8-7037-432A-95B2-7A7ECDC0031D.thumb.jpeg.47e05e5151cc150186c993bd9873a080.jpeg6C1B5CA4-4FCE-420E-8AE5-9A1B6519F742.thumb.jpeg.15b4a1320e9bb97799d3a16b8b13096f.jpegFE55F44D-2C68-478D-B9C4-9EFAAA9A29CB.thumb.jpeg.03bfdc30b51db9bc36210ce03d25d21b.jpeg

Those are some good steady beads for somebody that just drank 2 Bangs. I'd be shaking like a dog passing a peach seed. 

BTW Sour Heads are my favorite.  

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33 minutes ago, sausage450r said:

first i drill relief holes

How does this help as opposed to not making relief holes? 

Btw great thread. Thanks for sharing. 👍🏽

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Posted (edited)
25 minutes ago, B0NES said:

How does this help as opposed to not making relief holes? 

Btw great thread. Thanks for sharing. 👍🏽

Anytime you seal off a space with weld there is opportunity for a pressure differential. The coating on these cans, liquid burning out can all cause pressures to build. Give it somewhere to go other  than through the gap you are trying to weld

Edited by sausage450r

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55 minutes ago, Hondo said:

Those are some good steady beads for somebody that just drank 2 Bangs. I'd be shaking like a dog passing a peach seed. 

BTW Sour Heads are my favorite.  

Sour heads are all i have tried but i like them alot. I started using these as a preworkout and they are okay for that, mostly its my go to energy drink now. Sugar really messes with me since im pre-diabetic, so no sugar/carbs is nice. Havent tried it with vodka yet 

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8 hours ago, sausage450r said:

Anytime you seal off a space with weld there is opportunity for a pressure differential. The coating on these cans, liquid burning out can all cause pressures to build. Give it somewhere to go other  than through the gap you are trying to weld

Yep.  Usually the cause of the super porous booger bubbles that come up as you complete the weld.  

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3 hours ago, Rockwood said:

Yep.  Usually the cause of the super porous booger bubbles that come up as you complete the weld.  

Or blow a huge hole in the weld. DON~~~

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"I am going to be using a 1/16 2% lanthanated tungsten, regular gas lense, and larger straight ceramic cup (better halo of gas as i will be balling my tungsten for wide arc, but running 150htz frequency to keep it a nice 3/16 but semi focused arc). When i want a very focused, small, precise alumn weld i will sharpen the tip and run my frequency up even higher. I will be flowing pure argon @ 20cfh. This particular application my setup is as follows : a/c bal @ 70% 150hrtz 90 amps (material measures .085 assumed 6061) i will be using 1/16 4043 filler"

 

Huh?

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Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, mellen_mpz said:

"I am going to be using a 1/16 2% lanthanated tungsten, regular gas lense, and larger straight ceramic cup (better halo of gas as i will be balling my tungsten for wide arc, but running 150htz frequency to keep it a nice 3/16 but semi focused arc). When i want a very focused, small, precise alumn weld i will sharpen the tip and run my frequency up even higher. I will be flowing pure argon @ 20cfh. This particular application my setup is as follows : a/c bal @ 70% 150hrtz 90 amps (material measures .085 assumed 6061) i will be using 1/16 4043 filler"

 

Huh?

Some of us are better at this than others.  Your current method of turning shit up to 11 and figuring it out is still valid. :bigrin 

giphy.gif

Edited by Rockwood

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