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jwest2sh

2018 Summer upgrades on the Desert Dynamics (video added)

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My season is over and it's time to tinker.  Aside from the normal CV's, fuel filters, hub bearings and fuel cell foam maintenance, I'm going to replace my current 410HP Turnkey LS1 to a 415CI LS3 stroker.  I'm planning on replacing everything...exhaust, intake, and ECU.  I'm going to try the Holley EFI stuff....I've heard great things about it and my builder if familiar with it.  I'm having Steve Dose in El Cajon, CA. build the motor.  He does mostly Class 1 stuff but he's done a handful of sand cars and he's a family friend I've known for 30 years.  This will be a pretty mild build for longevity.  I'm not a drag racer and I don't shoot the hill very often.  I'm looking for a little more power that is reliable and runs on 91.  Were shooting for somewhere around 500RWHP with a good torque curve.  I ordered the block last week and that has already been delivered.  Steve ordered the rotating assembly and that should be here at the end of the week then they will be off to machining.  I'll forgot what brand everything is but I think he ordered some of it from CBM.  I'll get that next time I'm over there. 

I have a question for some of you big HP motor guys...I've been running the Bosh 044 fuel pump with a Holley Hydromat and -8 PTFE lines.  My hydromat is three years old and it's on the smaller side, so I think it might have a hard time keeping the stroker fed.  I'm going to replace it with a bigger one.  I did the math on the Bosh 044 fuel pump and it came up a little short. I estimated GPH on the high side of 650HP:

650HP x .5 BSFC = 325

325 ÷ 6 lbs = 54.1666 GPH

The Bosh 044 is rated at 53 GPH free flow so I'll need to upgrade my pump.  Steve recommended the Weldon A600-A, (https://www.weldonracing.com/store/A600-A-p53630158) which has -10 fittings.  I called Holley and they said -8 would be sufficient for my setup.  What are you guys with the bigger HP engines running for fuel line?  Mine is a top of the fuel cell suction style system so the pump will have to pull fuel up and out of the cell.  Is -8 big enough or should I go to -10, at least to the pump inlet? I'll be pulling the car out this Friday to get started.

 

Thanks,

~jw

 

Edited by jwest2sh
video link added

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I'm not making 500 rwhp but here is what i'm running I have a -10 out of my tank to the filter -10 to the pump and the rest of the lines are -8. I'm running an A1000 fuel pump its a little over kill for my set up but I left my self room to grow in the future.

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6 minutes ago, Djwc406 said:

I'm not making 500 rwhp but here is what i'm running I have a -10 out of my tank to the filter -10 to the pump and the rest of the lines are -8. I'm running an A1000 fuel pump its a little over kill for my set up but I left my self room to grow in the future.

Thanks for the reply.  Did you try -8 from the tank to the pump and it wasn't enough or did you just go big to be on the safe side?

 

thanks,

~jw

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1 minute ago, jwest2sh said:

Thanks for the reply.  Did you try -8 from the tank to the pump and it wasn't enough or did you just go big to be on the safe side?

 

thanks,

~jw

I just went that big from the start.

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Just now, Djwc406 said:

I just went that big from the start.

Ok...thanks.  That's what my motor guys is saying to do also.

 

~jw

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If your going from a 410hp ls1 and shooting for 500 at the wheels with the engine thats going to be a whole new car. Sounds like fun.

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I have a 416 with a Weldon 1100 -12 to the pump and -10 to the rails and regulator.  This setup works and the pump is super quiet

Edited by Lambro

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Weldon pumps are nice.  I know some drag race guys that have them and love them.  Don't think you can go wrong.  Generally speaking -10 is a safe bet and will cover almost anything you want.  However, I have seen a lot of systems routed with -10 up to and from the rails with -10 to -8 fittings and/or -8 for the cross over.  -8 will support a lot of horsepower, more than what a lot of people think.  I'm sure it would cover your 415 LS3 no problem.

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A little off topic but I ran -10 line to billet y block that split to 2 -8 lines that ran to my fuel rails. I was running E85, with a big whipple on a stroked 5.0 4 valve cobra motor. Made 900+ rwhp on low boost.

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OK...thanks for the replies guys. I talked to a few more guys that said -10 is for 1000HP or more.  After seeing some of the comments on here I think I will go -10 from the cell to the pump, then -8 for the rest of the system just to be on the safe side. 

 

~jw

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Pretty sure he ordered the crank and rods the other day Callies stuff

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5 minutes ago, CBM said:

Pretty sure he ordered the crank and rods the other day Callies stuff

Yep. Just stopped by and saw it today. It’s going to be a 418. 

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Got the new Weldon Fuel pump installed and the fuel cell removed from the car.  I ordered a new 15"X15" Holley Hydromat with 1/2" NPT inlet for the 5/8" stainless hardline pickup.  I also ordered all the fittings and -10 PTFE hose to make the fuel line from the fuel cell to the pump inlet.  I'm going to stick with the -8 on the pressure side. 

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The newer Holley self learning computers are amazing. I have killed my turbo cartridge each of the last two seasons which of course dumps oil on the 02 sensor so it is disconnected.  You can leave all of that hooked up and it works awesome.

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2 hours ago, onanysunday said:

The newer Holley self learning computers are amazing. I have killed my turbo cartridge each of the last two seasons which of course dumps oil on the 02 sensor so it is disconnected.  You can leave all of that hooked up and it works awesome.

I have heard nothing but good things about the Holley stuff.  Can't wait to get it all put in and dialed. 

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Haven't done much on the buggy.  I bought a 2000 F250 7.3 I've been doing a lot of work on.   I got the fuel cell pickup done and installed.  I used -10 fittings, 5/8" stainless hardline and a 15x15" Holley Hydromat.  I got one side of the -10 PTFE braided fuel line built for the supply line to the pump, but I crossthreaded one of the AN fittings so I had to order a new one from Summit.  It came yesterday so I'll finish the line up this week.  Just a couple of pics. The first one is the old -8 pickup that I made a couple of years ago. 

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Edited by jwest2sh
added another pic

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Got one more little thing done this weekend.  I cut off the old PS reservoir and welded the new one on.  The new Howe PS reservoir is a little bigger and wouldn't fit in the old mount.  This one has a 16lb cap like a radiator and will have a -4 hardline that goes to the ground under the motor...hopefully no more messy PS fluid all over the place.  The new one also has a filter.  Now I need to build some new lines.

 

 

~jw

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Pretty shiny, looks nice! Would it touch the dirt if car went rubber side up? Maybe a little lower? That's what my wife says... I always slide mine down all the way till the top weld touches the mount so it can't slide down anymore from weight of the lines hanging?

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2 hours ago, 2turbofords said:

Pretty shiny, looks nice! Would it touch the dirt if car went rubber side up? Maybe a little lower? That's what my wife says... I always slide mine down all the way till the top weld touches the mount so it can't slide down anymore from weight of the lines hanging?

I don't think it will hit in the event of an easy rollover.  There would be a pretty big gap there because the roof rack and the rear cage would hit first.  I have a hard go-over and it bent the roof rack and back of the cage down it will probably hit.  It's down about as far as it can go.  It might go down another 1/2" than what's showed in the pic.  It's just sitting in the mount right now.  The filter hangs down and is pretty close to the crossbar.   That's a good point though.  I might even consider moving it back a couple inches so I can lower it in the  mount.  I just have to wait until the motor and air cleaner are in.  It's a huge HOWE air cleaner and I want to make sure it clears. 

 

~jw

Edited by jwest2sh

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Haven't done much to the car...been working on an 2000 F250 I picked up.  Some progress on the motor though.  Heads are in and off to machining.  Rods, cam and some other goodies showed up. Steve's checking bearing clearances then the block goes to the machine shop to be decked and line bored.  Still a lot to do.

 

~jw

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Steve got some work done on the heads.  I don't know much about them other than they are new LS3 heads that he had machined. 

I picked up four Baja Designs Squadron Pro's to replace the cheap LED pods on the car now.  The cheap ones were descent...but after putting the BD XL80's on the front there is just no comparison.  The new pods will go on the A pillar and the roof rack.  The old ones were flood lights and just didn't reach out quite far enough with a no moon night.  The Squadrons are a driving beam so two of the LED's are floods and two are spots in each pod.  These should give me just a little more reach.  I also got the BD RTL bar to replace my current one.  I don't like how they are wired internally.  In order to get the brake lights to come on...there has to be power to the running/tail lights? Why would they do that? I don't want to re-wire my system or re-configure my switches just for the brake lights.  I'm going to try and run a jumper wire from the brake light wire to the running light wire with a diode...that should activate the running/tail light when the brake switch triggers.  The diode should keep power from backfeeding from the tail lights to the brake lights when the tail light switch is ON. 

 

~jw

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Edited by jwest2sh
Pic of diode

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I did the same thing for my rtl light bar for the same reasons. Also xl80s are the best light for the money. I run for of them all angles different directions. 

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What diode did you use? I found this on on amazon for $8. Hope it does the trick. I’ve never used one before? 

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6 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

What diode did you use? I found this on on amazon for $8. Hope it does the trick. I’ve never used one before? 

I don’t think that will work. I’m trying to remember. I know I didn’t use a diode. But in order for the brake lights to work you have to heat up the ambers/running lights. I remember it being weird. Not sure if I used a jumoer to test and figure that out or if I had one permanently I’m there. I don’t have that car anymore. 

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2 hours ago, jtmoney714 said:

I don’t think that will work. I’m trying to remember. I know I didn’t use a diode. But in order for the brake lights to work you have to heat up the ambers/running lights. I remember it being weird. Not sure if I used a jumoer to test and figure that out or if I had one permanently I’m there. I don’t have that car anymore. 

If I run a jumper wire without a diode from the brake lights to the running lights, when I turn on the running lights it will back feed and turn on the brake lights.   I'll give it a try and report my findings.  In theory it should work...but I've been wrong before.

 

~jw

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