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jwest2sh

2018 Summer upgrades on the Desert Dynamics (video added)

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Nice upgrades. Love the stainless hard line and plan to do that for my power steering lines someday.

You may have mentioned this and I missed it, but in case you didn't- with the Holley Hydramat you don't need the pre-filter between the fuel cell and fuel pump. The Hydramat does that now. I had Harmon put one in my fuel cell last season. Extra 3 gallons of useable fuel in my car now.

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7 hours ago, L.R.S. said:

Nice upgrades. Love the stainless hard line and plan to do that for my power steering lines someday.

You may have mentioned this and I missed it, but in case you didn't- with the Holley Hydramat you don't need the pre-filter between the fuel cell and fuel pump. The Hydramat does that now. I had Harmon put one in my fuel cell last season. Extra 3 gallons of useable fuel in my car now.

Thanks Jeff.  Hardline for the PS would be awesome! Ya...the Hydromat is a 15 micron filter.  I took the filter out that was between the pickup and the pump when I put the old hydromat in.   

 

 

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8 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

If I run a jumper wire without a diode from the brake lights to the running lights, when I turn on the running lights it will back feed and turn on the brake lights.   I'll give it a try and report my findings.  In theory it should work...but I've been wrong before.

 

~jw

Update....

 

OK, so I had to know if this diode thing was going to work.  If it didn't I was thinking about returning the RTL.  I temporarily wired up the brake lights, running lights and white light to confirm.  I installed a jumper wire from the brake wire to the running light wire with a diode in between.  It works!!  I have brake lights with the running lights on and without the running lights on, and when I turn the running lights on there is no backfeeding to the brake light circuit. 

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2 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

Update....

 

OK, so I had to know if this diode thing was going to work.  If it didn't I was thinking about returning the RTL.  I temporarily wired up the brake lights, running lights and white light to confirm.  I installed a jumper wire from the brake wire to the running light wire with a diode in between.  It works!!  I have brake lights with the running lights on and without the running lights on, and when I turn the running lights on there is no backfeeding to the brake light circuit. 

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 Now that you explain it like that it makes sense. Good work. I for some reason was confused for a bit as I was driving and trying to read lol. When you hit the brake with the lights off do all the lights come on too?

Edited by jtmoney714

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5 minutes ago, jtmoney714 said:

 Now that you explain it like that it makes sense. Good work. I for some reason was confused for a bit as I was driving and trying to read lol. When you hit the brake with the lights off do all the lights come on too?

Yes...they are one in the same.  They are the same set of LED's for the running lights and brake lights.  They just get brighter when the brake switch is activated.  They probably run the running lights through a resistor or something to make them dimmer?

 

~jw

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Picked up the air cleaner the other day.  This thing is massive! 10"X 24".  Not sure if it's going to fit...I might have to go back to the duals.

 

~jw

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Got the RLB installed and wired.  The diode works great.  The light bar is kinda ugly...but it's bright!

 

~jw

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Looking good!

Which Holley EFI are you going to use? I just ordered an Edelbrock ProFlo 4 for my LS2  with rec. port heads, all self tuning as well. 

Edited by fortyfour

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22 hours ago, fortyfour said:

Looking good!

Which Holley EFI are you going to use? I just ordered an Edelbrock ProFlo 4 for my LS2  with rec. port heads, all self tuning as well. 

I’m not sure? I’ll let Steve decide which one since he will be tuning it. 

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On 9/7/2018 at 11:46 PM, jwest2sh said:

Got the RLB installed and wired.  The diode works great.  The light bar is kinda ugly...but it's bright!

 

~jw

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Where did you get the light bar and how much? You can PM me if you want thanks 

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1 hour ago, ROBERT L said:

Where did you get the light bar and how much? You can PM me if you want thanks 

I have one if you want. 250$. Located in corona. 

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6 hours ago, ROBERT L said:

Where did you get the light bar and how much? You can PM me if you want thanks 

It's the Baja Designs RTL-S $525 from their site.  I think it might be a little cheaper from Amazon?  It's a little more than the regular RTL because the ambers are wired separately for turn signals...which I wired together anyway.

https://www.bajadesigns.com/Products/RTL-S-rear-light-bar.asp

 

 

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Parts started arriving today!  Motor is finally back from machine and being assembled.....

 

~jw

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Edited by jwest2sh

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Motor should be a long block this week.  I started ordering fittings and hoses to plumb the fuel system and oil cooler.  I mounted the fuel regulator and remote oil filter.  I found a 21 micron WIX 2 qt WIX filter that fit nicely.  Adding  a  little volume never hurt either.  The Holley ECU, O2 sensor and conn kit arrived the other day.  My buddy Mark from HP wiring is going to make me a harness.  Pulled the CV's apart, inspected and cleaned them.  I found one star and two balls that had some pitting so I replaced them with Fortin 300M.  Got them installed and greased.....man I hate doing CV's!  I also pulled the 12 year old PS lines out and took them apart....just because.  Cleaned the fittings in the solvent take.  The fittings all look good so I'm going to reuse them and replace all the hose.  Getting closer :jeff:

Here's the ECU I went with:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-554-113

 

~jw

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Are you going to be running a holley digital dash,with the holley efi?

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Not at this point.  I may upgrade to that down the road when I re-do the dash but I'm just going to use my analog gauges for now. 

 

~jw

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Got a little more done on the car.  I bought all new PS lines mainly because the old ones were 12 years old and I have the car apart.  $550 later, I have new lines!  I got all of the fittings done except the two for the pump.  I have to wait until the motor is in the car to get the right length.  This car was not plumbed correctly from the start.  It had high pressure PS lines on both sides of the system.  On a long hard run the fluid would heat up and aerate causing whining noise and and a groaning noise when I turned the wheel.  After I shut it off and let it cool, it would go back to normal.  I also burned up two pumps in the last two years.  After talking to Jeff at Howe Performance it makes sense.  The high pressure lines have a 1/2" ID and the low pressure lines have 5/8" ID.  The smaller ID lines could not return the fluid fast enough and It was getting air in the system.  I put the correct lines on it now with a new reservoir with filter and a 16lb pressure cap.  The Pro-Am one had a tendency to weep sometimes from the O-ring cap.  The new one has a -4 fitting that I can plumb to the bottom of the car if it does get pressure release.  Couple pics of the lines.

 

~jw

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Looks great!  Amazing how fast those hoses and fittings can add up.  Good info to share with people on the hose sizing too.  Smaller hose- higher pressure and larger hose- lower pressure.   A trick I learned from @GRANT@FUNCO is to put a little piece of fuel cell foam in the steering fluid reservoir to help keep the fluid from getting out. 

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On 7/16/2018 at 6:18 PM, jwest2sh said:

Steve got some work done on the heads.  I don't know much about them other than they are new LS3 heads that he had machined. 

I picked up four Baja Designs Squadron Pro's to replace the cheap LED pods on the car now.  The cheap ones were descent...but after putting the BD XL80's on the front there is just no comparison.  The new pods will go on the A pillar and the roof rack.  The old ones were flood lights and just didn't reach out quite far enough with a no moon night.  The Squadrons are a driving beam so two of the LED's are floods and two are spots in each pod.  These should give me just a little more reach.  I also got the BD RTL bar to replace my current one.  I don't like how they are wired internally.  In order to get the brake lights to come on...there has to be power to the running/tail lights? Why would they do that? I don't want to re-wire my system or re-configure my switches just for the brake lights.  I'm going to try and run a jumper wire from the brake light wire to the running light wire with a diode...that should activate the running/tail light when the brake switch triggers.  The diode should keep power from backfeeding from the tail lights to the brake lights when the tail light switch is ON. 

 

This is just a guess, but  my guess would be because they typically get installed on race vehicles.  I say this because I installed one on a race truck last year and it was plug and play.   But that truck is wired so that if the battery switch is on then all the running lights (red and amber) are on.

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40 minutes ago, THROTTLEJUNKIE said:

This is just a guess, but  my guess would be because they typically get installed on race vehicles.  I say this because I installed one on a race truck last year and it was plug and play.   But that truck is wired so that if the battery switch is on then all the running lights (red and amber) are on.

Ya..I'm sure it's a safety thing.  I would say 80% of these bars they sell are going on SxS's now a days and their rear lights aren't typically wired to the switch....they should make it an option to be wired like that.  I guess it's not a big deal to always have the rear lights on but I just didn't want to re-wire my switches. 

Edited by jwest2sh

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1 hour ago, L.R.S. said:

Looks great!  Amazing how fast those hoses and fittings can add up.  Good info to share with people on the hose sizing too.  Smaller hose- higher pressure and larger hose- lower pressure.   A trick I learned from @GRANT@FUNCO is to put a little piece of fuel cell foam in the steering fluid reservoir to help keep the fluid from getting out. 

Thanks Jeff...that's a good idea!  Tell me about it....I just spent another $600 on PTFE fuel line, oil lines and AN fittings!  I'd rather spend the money and do it once the right way though. 

 

~jw

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Got the rest of the fuel lines and oil lines built on the car side of the lines.  Just waiting for the motor to be done so I can get the correct length for the hose on the motor side.  Also made a hardline for the PS resi overflow that goes to the bottom of the cage under the motor.  No more mess on the outside of the resi!  I did the math on all the electrical accessories.  When everything is running I'm pulling 165-170 amps.  I had the stock alternator re-wound for 200A but I don't think it was putting that out....definitely not anywhere near that at idle.  I had intermittent issues with it cutting out at idle when I had everything running.  I bought the CBM 250A...which is supposed to kick on at idle.  The power cable in the entire car was 4GA....which was way too small for the king of amperage.  I added up what amperage could possibly be running through each leg of the power cable and replaced the 4GA with 0GA and 2GA according to the chart.  Damn...that 0GA is spendy!  Anyway... here's a couple pics.

~jw

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165 amps is a LOT of power.

What all are you running again?

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Really like seeing the ESS fire suppression system in your car.  Wish more people had them.

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1 hour ago, L.R.S. said:

Really like seeing the ESS fire suppression system in your car.  Wish more people had them.

One engine fire is all it took for me to buy it!  LOL

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