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jwest2sh

2018 Summer upgrades on the Desert Dynamics (video added)

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2 hours ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

165 amps is a LOT of power.

What all are you running again?

40" lightbar

4 BDs  squadron pro's

2 BDs  XL80's

Rear light bar

2 rear bumper lights

fuel pump

4 seat heaters

2 separate fresh air pumps

2 x 16" fans

GPS

Dash lights

Radio

Intercom

2 amps, stereo

4 Interior lights

LED whip

It adds up quick!

 

~jw

 

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On 9/7/2018 at 11:46 PM, jwest2sh said:

Got the RLB installed and wired.  The diode works great.  The light bar is kinda ugly...but it's bright!

 

~jw

Pic2.jpg

Pic1.jpg

Why did you switch from the previous rear light bar to this one?

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31 minutes ago, RodSmith32 said:

Why did you switch from the previous rear light bar to this one?

Two of the amber LEDs were out and this one is a lot brighter. 

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New battery is in and wired.  I hope 330CCA is enough to turn the 418ci over? I bought the identical battery (Odyssey PC925) that was in it before but now it says it has 330CCA where the old was rated at 380CCA? What's up with that?  Anyone else using these batteries with a built motor?

 

~jw

IMG_0302[1].JPG

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23 minutes ago, jwest2sh said:

New battery is in and wired.  I hope 330CCA is enough to turn the 418ci over? I bought the identical battery (Odyssey PC925) that was in it before but now it says it has 330CCA where the old was rated at 380CCA? What's up with that?  Anyone else using these batteries with a built motor?

 

~jw

IMG_0302[1].JPG

I wouldn’t worry about it. Cca is rated at 0 degrees. You probably don’t want to use the buggy at those temps anyways. 

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1 hour ago, jtmoney714 said:

I wouldn’t worry about it. Cca is rated at 0 degrees. You probably don’t want to use the buggy at those temps anyways. 

Cool.  Ya....took a ride in 29* one time, that was miserable!  I'm sure my 9 year old battery wasn't putting out 380CCA anyway!  :thumbup:

 

~jw

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So...the Holley sheet metal intake wouldn't work for my motor.  The ports were too small and didn't have enough material to match the port on the heads so I return it and got the cast Holley intake....which of course was $300 more.  Another week setback.  I mounted the ECU, fuse block and relays on the firewall behind the rear seat.  Once the motor is in my wire guys will build me a mil-spec harness that will have a barrel plug on the firewall to the motor.  I'll take a pic of that when it's done.  I couldn't find a commercially made breather box that that would work perfectly so I built one that will mount behind the motor on the cage.  I used 2 1/2" aluminum square tubing and cut it to 10".  I cut slots in it for baffles on either side and welded them in.  I cut end caps and some 1" tubing for the breathers where the 2" K&N filters will sit.  I used 1/2" NPT weld in bungs where the -10 fittings will go for the oil lines.  My tig skills are subpar so I had my buddy Tim at TBmetalworx weld them up for me.  It came out pretty good.  I wanted to have it anodized but I'm afraid the end caps won't be the same color because they are 6061 and the square tubing is something else...?  If that's the case I'll just powercoat it or leave it raw.  Does anyone know if the anodizing will be a different color on two different grades of aluminum?  Here's a couple pics.

 

~jw

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IMG_0377[1].JPG

IMG_0378[1].JPG

IMG_0379[1].JPG

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That looks killer. You could have it polished but even if the bungs are a little different in color i doubt it would be very much and I think it would still look really cool anodized even if they where. 

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2 hours ago, SANDPSYCHO said:

That looks killer. You could have it polished but even if the bungs are a little different in color i doubt it would be very much and I think it would still look really cool anodized even if they where. 

I thought about polishing it but I don't have anything else that is polished on the car and I don't want the upkeep.  This thing gets used in the desert as well as Glamis.  I will run it by my local metal plating place to see what they think.  I think anodized would look cool too, and match the rest of the stuff I have on the car.  I'll post up picks when I figure it out.

 

~jw

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Get this car done and lets do a baja trip! 

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Update...

The motor should be done tomorrow.  I still have a ton of work to do like finish all the oil and fuel lines, have a harness built, have exhaust built, build intake, throttle cable, plumb coolant lines, and a bunch of stuff I don't even know about I'm sure.  It was all put together last week but two of the lifters didn't have springs in them.  Steve didn't catch it until the motor was together.  He tried to talk me into solid lifters but I don't want to mess with adjusting them all the time....just another damn maintenance item!  I'll sacrifice a little power.  Of course, he tried to get replacement lifters but they were out of stock, so he went with Crower.  I can't remember what the original brand was.  The Crowers were a different height so the pushrods were too short.  New pushrods came in the other day so the motor is just about complete now. 

Meanwhile, I added a Hobbs meter to keep track of the new motor.  No guesswork with maintenance!  I will wire it to the fuel pump so it only runs when the motor is running.


~jw

 

IMG_E0471.JPG

IMG_E0472.JPG

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Update...

 

I got the motor back last Friday night.  I had to modify my engine hoist because it wouldn't fit over the new intake manifold.  My buddy Colt came buy and help me drop it in the car the same night and have been working on getting hoses and accessories finished up.  I put a new clutch in it while it was apart along with throwout bearing.  I temporarily installed the pulley's to check the accessory drive line...all good.  Now I'll take it all back apart to PC some of the brackets and the breather box.  My wire guy came by last night and took some measurements for the harness.  He is going to try and have it finished up this weekend.  I got all my parts for the intake ordered from Kartek and they should be here in a couple days.  I made a throttle cable bracket out of 1/8" aluminum plate I had laying around.  The to-do list is getting smaller.  I still have to have an exhaust built but this motor ran a bit over budget so I gonna hold off for a little bit.  Here's a couple pics of the progress.

~jw

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Couple more pics....The valve covers are not mine...he is still welding in baffles and AN fittings for the breathers on mine, then they have to go to PC with the rest of the parts.  Finished the steam port hoses.  I used PTFE lines and AN fittings like everything else so I should never have to mess with them again.

~jw

 

 

IMG_0518[1].JPG

IMG_0519[1].JPG

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On 11/4/2018 at 5:46 PM, jwest2sh said:

So...the Holley sheet metal intake wouldn't work for my motor.  The ports were too small and didn't have enough material to match the port on the heads so I return it and got the cast Holley intake....which of course was $300 more.  Another week setback.  I mounted the ECU, fuse block and relays on the firewall behind the rear seat.  Once the motor is in my wire guys will build me a mil-spec harness that will have a barrel plug on the firewall to the motor.  I'll take a pic of that when it's done.  I couldn't find a commercially made breather box that that would work perfectly so I built one that will mount behind the motor on the cage.  I used 2 1/2" aluminum square tubing and cut it to 10".  I cut slots in it for baffles on either side and welded them in.  I cut end caps and some 1" tubing for the breathers where the 2" K&N filters will sit.  I used 1/2" NPT weld in bungs where the -10 fittings will go for the oil lines.  My tig skills are subpar so I had my buddy Tim at TBmetalworx weld them up for me.  It came out pretty good.  I wanted to have it anodized but I'm afraid the end caps won't be the same color because they are 6061 and the square tubing is something else...?  If that's the case I'll just powercoat it or leave it raw.  Does anyone know if the anodizing will be a different color on two different grades of aluminum?  Here's a couple pics.

 

~jw

IMG_0333[1].JPG

IMG_0335[1].JPG

IMG_0353[1].JPG

IMG_0377[1].JPG

IMG_0378[1].JPG

IMG_0379[1].JPG

If you want it to look good, have it polished first, to remove the harder oxidized layer on the flat surfaces of the metal, then have it anodized, as it will then take the pigmentation a lot deeper and more consistent. .. It will then turn out nice, have a bit of gloss.. Unpolished it will be more of a flat/matte finish and lighter color, as the pigment will not get past the hard oxidized layer.

 

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Chief Lee would be proud. Nice work !. He's in Idaho picking potatoes or shooting squirells somewhere or something, and your kicking the that buggy to a new level. Right on !!.

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1 hour ago, SCHMIDTY said:

If you want it to look good, have it polished first, to remove the harder oxidized layer on the flat surfaces of the metal, then have it anodized, as it will then take the pigmentation a lot deeper and more consistent. .. It will then turn out nice, have a bit of gloss.. Unpolished it will be more of a flat/matte finish and lighter color, as the pigment will not get past the hard oxidized layer.

 

Thanks for the tip Schmidty....  I did some calling around for anodizing and the minimum at most places is over $100.  I'm going to just PC it satin black with the rest of the parts.  If I had more parts to anodize it might be worth it but no for just one. 

 

~jw

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1 hour ago, sandhammerer said:

Chief Lee would be proud. Nice work !. He's in Idaho picking potatoes or shooting squirells somewhere or something, and your kicking the that buggy to a new level. Right on !!.

haha..nice.  He must have retired and is living the good life!  Hope he's still ridin...there's some good spots up there in tater country!   Ya...the original cage is about the only thing left original on the car, and I've made some changes to that as well.

 

~jw

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Very cool

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Looking good!

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11 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

Thanks for the tip Schmidty....  I did some calling around for anodizing and the minimum at most places is over $100.  I'm going to just PC it satin black with the rest of the parts.  If I had more parts to anodize it might be worth it but no for just one. 

 

~jw

I don't know what your timeline is, but I am getting a batch of black done pretty soon, If you want to send it over, I will throw it in with the other parts... just get it to me. 

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On 11/20/2018 at 7:44 PM, jwest2sh said:

Update...

The motor should be done tomorrow.  I still have a ton of work to do like finish all the oil and fuel lines, have a harness built, have exhaust built, build intake, throttle cable, plumb coolant lines, and a bunch of stuff I don't even know about I'm sure.  It was all put together last week but two of the lifters didn't have springs in them.  Steve didn't catch it until the motor was together.  He tried to talk me into solid lifters but I don't want to mess with adjusting them all the time....just another damn maintenance item!  I'll sacrifice a little power.  Of course, he tried to get replacement lifters but they were out of stock, so he went with Crower.  I can't remember what the original brand was.  The Crowers were a different height so the pushrods were too short.  New pushrods came in the other day so the motor is just about complete now. 

Meanwhile, I added a Hobbs meter to keep track of the new motor.  No guesswork with maintenance!  I will wire it to the fuel pump so it only runs when the motor is running.


~jw

 

IMG_E0471.JPG

IMG_E0472.JPG

A hobbs meter...what are you, a boat guy?!  Seems funny in a buggy but probably not a bad idea actually.

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9 hours ago, 2DASAND said:

A hobbs meter...what are you, a boat guy?!  Seems funny in a buggy but probably not a bad idea actually.

Helicopter guy actually....  I've always wondered how many hours I'm actually putting on the motor?  I think it would be a good thing if ever decide to sell it too.

~jw

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11 hours ago, SCHMIDTY said:

I don't know what your timeline is, but I am getting a batch of black done pretty soon, If you want to send it over, I will throw it in with the other parts... just get it to me. 

Thanks Schmidty!  That's cool of ya man.  I'm still a little concerned about the three different grades of aluminum coming out different.  I think I'm just going to PC it though.  It should look pretty good. 

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22 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

Helicopter guy actually....  I've always wondered how many hours I'm actually putting on the motor?  I think it would be a good thing if ever decide to sell it too.

~jw

I have one in my car too. I'm not sure why or what I would check with it but it has 470 hours on it.

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It let's you know how long the battery will last when you leave the key on.

 

 

 

I probably killed half a dozen batteries in my Rhino from working on it and forgetting to turn the key off.

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