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jwest2sh

2018 Summer upgrades on the Desert Dynamics

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I have been thinking of putting an hour meter in mine. Just so I know how much time I have on certain items and how long they will last.

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On ‎11‎/‎29‎/‎2018 at 5:25 PM, Kraut_n_Rice said:

It let's you know how long the battery will last when you leave the key on.

 

 

 

I probably killed half a dozen batteries in my Rhino from working on it and forgetting to turn the key off.

I think it will only run when the motor is running.  The fuel pump is run through the ECU..it gets a few seconds of power initially to build pressure...then shuts off until the motor is running.   At least that's what my wire guys told me...we'll see? 

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The wiring harness is pretty much done.  My wire guy stopped by last night with the harness and just needed to get some final measurements for the plugs on the intake.  It's all mil-spec wire and connectors with a barrel plug through the firewall.  That should make pulling the motor for maintenance easier than before.  The accessory parts and intake are at PC and should be done early next week.  After that it'll get the exhaust done.  I had to use an adapter for the thermostat housing.  For some reason I couldn't find a 15* thermostat housing to match the stock one I had before.  I didn't want to make all new coolant lines so it needed to be at the same angle as my last motor.  I found several for the SBC but nothing for the LS.  I found an adapter that bolted to my water pump and adapted a SBC 15* water inlet.  This motor is built with such tight tolerances I wanted to run a 160* thermostat so warm ups don't' take so long.  No one makes a thermostat that would fit the adapter.  I tried the SBC and the LS thermostat.  I called Summit and they sold me the SBC high flow thermostat.  I finally called ICT billet, who made the adapter, and they told me no one makes a thermostat for it??? WTF?   The guy I talked to used a SBC thermostat, which is too small, and put an LS thermostat gasket on it....so that's what I did.  It fit perfect.  Just in case anyone else runs the aftermarket water pump and needs the 15* housing.  I don't have a picture of the adapeter on my phone and I'm at work.  I'll add  one later.  Here's the car side of the harness.  Mark took the motor side back to finish up the plugs.

 

~jw   

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Coming out sick! Love mil-spec wiring stuff. I need to install my sway bar similar to yours. What size tubing did u use to mount yours inside and where did the bushings  on each end come from? Thanks and keep up the good work!

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14 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

The wiring harness is pretty much done.  My wire guy stopped by last night with the harness and just needed to get some final measurements for the plugs on the intake.  It's all mil-spec wire and connectors with a barrel plug through the firewall.  That should make pulling the motor for maintenance easier than before.  The accessory parts and intake are at PC and should be done early next week.  After that it'll get the exhaust done.  I had to use an adapter for the thermostat housing.  For some reason I couldn't find a 15* thermostat housing to match the stock one I had before.  I didn't want to make all new coolant lines so it needed to be at the same angle as my last motor.  I found several for the SBC but nothing for the LS.  I found an adapter that bolted to my water pump and adapted a SBC 15* water inlet.  This motor is built with such tight tolerances I wanted to run a 160* thermostat so warm ups don't' take so long.  No one makes a thermostat that would fit the adapter.  I tried the SBC and the LS thermostat.  I called Summit and they sold me the SBC high flow thermostat.  I finally called ICT billet, who made the adapter, and they told me no one makes a thermostat for it??? WTF?   The guy I talked to used a SBC thermostat, which is too small, and put an LS thermostat gasket on it....so that's what I did.  It fit perfect.  Just in case anyone else runs the aftermarket water pump and needs the 15* housing.  I don't have a picture of the adapeter on my phone and I'm at work.  I'll add  one later.  Here's the car side of the harness.  Mark took the motor side back to finish up the plugs.

 

~jw   

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Thanks Rick.  I'm really happy with the way it's coming out...just not how long it's taking!  I used the delrin sway bar bushings from Kartek for the 1.25" speedway sway bar.  The bushings are made for 1.75" .120 wall tubing.   Kartek sells the outer sleves for the bushing but I went with a solid tube all the way across.  The guy at speedway told me the tortion bars can snap sometimes and cause a lot of damage  Being that it's right behind the rear seat and sitting on top of the tranny, I figured it was worth the extra weight for safety.  The solid tube should contain the tortion bar if it blows up.  It's just a giant spring in there.  Plus...it was way easier to fab up the brackets for the solid tube.  I got the solid sway bar which is pretty stiff.  I might go down to the next softer one.  I built it so I can change out the sway bar in a few minutes.  It's all removable.  It turned this big ole squishy pig into a slot car!  You'll love it...

 

https://www.kartek.com/parts/black-delrin-pivot-bushing-1-14-inside-diameter-1-12-outside-diameter-1-12-total-length-42078.html

 

~jw

Edited by jwest2sh

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The harness is complete.  Mark just has to wire the fuel pump and fans to the relays.  I'm going to weld two 1/4NPT bungs in the radiator for an anode and a petcock while it's empty.  Pulling the motor always made a mess with the coolant....tying to make my life easier wherever I can.  I figured an anode can't hurt to extend the life of the radiator.  Here's a couple pics of the harness.  Still have to route some wires and clean the inside of the car up when the fuel pump and fans are done.  The parts are done at PC.  Should be able to grab them tomorrow and do the final installation of the accessories.

~jw

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The car is completely wired and I got all my parts back from PC and put them on.  Everything fit great.  I totally forgot to take any pics before I took it up to Bob Butler to get the exhaust done.  Bob does all the big name race cars here in El Cajon and east SD County.  He gave me a great deal that I couldn't pass up.  I was planning on having Jugernat do them but with the deal Bob gave me and the super tight clearance issues I have with the cage I just had Bob do it because I could take the car to him.  I wanted the single muffler but it just wouldn't fit between the cage and the pulley's.  My water inlet and water line would have to change also, so I just went with the dual small inline style.  I wanted the car to be as quiet as possible.  I'm just tired of the jet boat sound all the time!  Anyway....here's a pic Bob sent me.  It's coming out nice and should be done Wednesday. 

~jw

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2 minutes ago, cali kid said:

Looking good J!

Thanks Sergio. Can’t wait to fire it up! 

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Ohh snap gonna look and sound sweet! Love the little jig clamp for the  ex tip wish I would have started there and worked backwards on mine, next time

Edited by 2turbofords

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4-2-1 makes a good scream.  You'll like it. :bigrin 

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Well....exhaust was done last week.  Took it to Dose and put it in the dyno room and started filling it with fluids.  Coolant started pouring out of the radiator near the bottom and out of the water pump inlet.  Dammit!  Made a huge mess!  When I drilled the radiator for the anode I must have nicked the inside of the core.  It's the smallest little mark but it must go all the way through the inner wall.  I didn't realize the inner race on the swivel inlet nipple for the water pump has threads and two O-rings.  It mush have loosened up with all the mock up and it was dripping.  I got that tightened up and lock-tited.  Had to drain what was left of the coolant in the system and pull the radiator out.  I cut open the tank and cleaned the area real good.  I took it to Tim at TBMetalworks and he's going to weld up the small nick inside the core.  Hopefully that will seal it up.  I'll take it to my buddy Stan at Kirks Radiator in El Cajon and have him pressure test it...hopefully tomorrow. Steve was going to finish up the plug wires and cycle some oil through the motor, then change the filter before we fire it up.  If all goes well....we might get it fired up this week???  :nag:

 

*All the crap in the radiator is from cutting the tank open....it has since been cleaned and flushed thoroughly.  

 

~jw

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Edited by jwest2sh

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Dropped the radiator off and Stans shop.  Turns out the tiny nick in the core was not leaking.  The leak came from the bottom where I drilled and welded the bung for the petcock.  I didn't realized the bottom plate was not totally welded and sealed to the bottom of the tank.  There is a small gap between them that the coolant was gettig in to and leaking out.  They welded it up and put it all back together and pressure tested it.  All good.  I'll put it back in the car tomorrow and get it ready to run.  Hopefully it'll be running this weeked.

 

~jw

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I got the radiator back in the car and NO LEAKS!  :td:  However.....when Steve uploaded a basic program to fire the engine it was popping and backfiring.  After a half day of brainstorming he figured out it that the connectors were pinned wrong by my wire guy.  Not really his fault...he wired it like the other Holley ECU's he has done but the Holley HP is wired like a factor GM plug.  Got that figured out and it started and idled fine but the fans would not kick on.  After some more brainstorming...Steve figured it out.  Another pin was wrong.  Fans work now but it's not reading the O2 sensor so its sensing a lean condition and dumping fuel making it rich.  Probably just another pin in the wrong spot but the New Year slowed us down a bit.  Steve will be back at it tomorrow and hopfully start the tuning process.  The new exhuast sounds cool....a little louder that i wanted but thats ok.   The little penis extention on the exhaust tip is just an adapter we made to fit the exhaust system on the dyno.  It's just presssed and wired into place and will come out when it's tuned.  Gonna have it coated black too.  The fabricated Holley valve covers I got were flexing out when I torqued them down and I was afraid they were going to leak.  I machined some spacers to go between the valve cover and the head so I can get a consistent torque on the bolts and compress the oring evenly all the way around the valve cover.  So far no leaks. ( I hate leaks!)

~jw

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Looking good John. 

Seems all the fabricated valve cover leak a little we put them in a vise and skinny them up to the Sam width as the factory ones. 

When we do the spacers we put in studs from McMaster car. 

We are working on caps to cover the bolt holes for the fabricated valve covers so sand can’t get in them.  

Car looking good.  

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, J Alper said:

Looking good John. 

Seems all the fabricated valve cover leak a little we put them in a vise and skinny them up to the Sam width as the factory ones. 

When we do the spacers we put in studs from McMaster car. 

We are working on caps to cover the bolt holes for the fabricated valve covers so sand can’t get in them.  

Car looking good.  

Thanks J....studs are a great idea.  I'm gonna have to do that.  I machined a relief in the end of each spacer and put an O ring on the bolt to hold them in place while we put the valve cover on.  Studs would have been so much easer. 

We did the same with mine.  I put them in a vise and squeezed them to the stock width.  It's amazing how much flex and spring back they have!  Let me know when you get the caps for the bolt holes.  I've been looking for something that will fit in there so they don't get filled with sand.

 

~jw

Edited by jwest2sh

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7 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

Thanks J....studs are a great idea.  I'm gonna have to do that.  I machined a relief in the end of each spacer and put an O ring on the bolt to hold them in place while we put the valve cover on.  Studs would have been so much easer. 

We did the same with mine.  I put them in a vise and squeezed them to the stock width.  It's amazing how much flex and spring back they have!  Let me know when you get the caps for the bolt holes.  I've been looking for something that will fit in there so they don't get filled with sand.

 

~jw

the studs I got from Mcmaster car mad it easier, will let you know on the caps,  car is looking really nice

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2 hours ago, J Alper said:

the studs I got from Mcmaster car mad it easier, will let you know on the caps,  car is looking really nice

Just got off the phone with the machinest need to make a run of them for metal-tech also 

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1 minute ago, J Alper said:

Just got off the phone with the machinest need to make a run of them for metal-tech also 

Cool.  Are you going with an aluminum plug of some sort?  

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So Steve did some tuning but ran into a couple more problems...of course!  With the car in gear and the clutch depressed it was making a grinding noise and the clutch was dragging.  Couldn't get it into reverse because the tranny was still turning.  Also noticed a very minor oil leak coming from the oil pan on the back of the motor.  Steve was able to get a basic tune into it so it will run safely but I had t pull the motor again to address the issues.  Found that the new ARP flywheel bolt heads were too tall and rubbing on the clutch.  No big deal...just going to put the old ARP low profile bolts back in.  The oil leak was a bad gasket.  Oil was coming up and around the gasket I the corner so I pulled the pan and put a new gasket in.  I'll know tomorrow if it did the trick.  Planning on taking it to Superstition Saturday morning to drive it around and do some heat cycles on in so Steve can really dial in the tune.  Preliminary numbers were 483HP and 420TQ to the wheel with a mild tune.  It's still really fat on the bottom end and the TQ number should come up some.  Peak TQ is at 5K, rev limiter set to 7200.  We should be pretty close to the 500 RWHP mark when it's all said and done. 

 

~jw 

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Looking good J!

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55 minutes ago, cali kid said:

Looking good J!

Thanks Sergio.  Super stoked for you on your new DD bro!  That is an awesome car!  I wonder what the weight difference is between the 1 5/8" chassis and the 1 1/2"? 

 

~jw 

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1 hour ago, jwest2sh said:

Thanks Sergio.  Super stoked for you on your new DD bro!  That is an awesome car!  I wonder what the weight difference is between the 1 5/8" chassis and the 1 1/2"? 

 

~jw 

Thanks brotha. 3300# when the previous owner had the shocks rebuilt they weighed the car. Davey Jones just weighed his new to him DD 1 5/8” chassis with tube arms and weighed 3100# I’m curious too about a 1 1/2” chassis. 

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3 minutes ago, cali kid said:

Thanks brotha. 3300# when the previous owner had the shocks rebuilt they weighed the car. Davey Jones just weighed his new to him DD 1 5/8” chassis with tube arms and weighed 3100# I’m curious too about a 1 1/2” chassis. 

I had mine weighed before the boxed rear arms and sway bar.  With a spare tire (33X10.50's), 1/2 bag of fuel it was 2860#'s.  That was with the boxed fronts and PBS S5 too.  I'm probably just over 3K, 3100ish with the bigger rear arms, hubs, CV's and sway bar.  New motor might add a little too.  Went to 35's (Grabbers) which are a lot heavier.  I'm guessin the 1 5/8" is a few hundred pounds heavier?

 

~jw

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