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onanysunday

2d to S4 -Gen 4 Funco build thread

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I wish there would have been a thread on this so I will do one for the next guy. Front tube between the trailing arms is rough cut out. I had to do a little massaging on the front mount and the trans bolts into both mounts. Probably will do a gusset on the front mount because it is a little thinner. That is if the trans is in the right location which I assume it is. I built some jigs to index the S4 to the exact same location as the 2d was. I am happy my current fuel pump mount will still work. Will need to get creative with the shifter cable bracket because the fuel pump is close. You can see part of my jig set up with the hose clamps. High tech. 

20180503_171319.jpg

20180503_171239.jpg

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-10 90 degree fitting for the suction and the return are both removed and there is about 1.5 inches of clearance between that and the trans. Not to mention a 1.5" piece of tubing has to be welded back into this location. The small center sump will no longer work. A small potion of that old sump will need to be cut and welded to give clearance for that tube.

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20180503_171252.jpg

Edited by onanysunday

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My thoughts to fix this would be a sump on the right side. It is a much larger area so the sump can be much bigger. Sump would look just like the orginal in the center but larger like the shape shown. Hole saw some holes in the very right side of the tank so fuel will flow into the sump but not back out as the car is turning right. Then weld the sump on.

Sump layout.jpg

Holes for sump.jpg

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I want to keep my 930 cvs but could not get the center section with bigger spider gears without going 934 output shafts. So I have these 1/2 inch thick spacers. I still need to fully machine them. OD to fit in the output shaft, ID for the 930 to sit in, Machine tapers for the big allen bolts, and then tap the smaller center 6 holes. Probably overkill but I am going to put some TIG welds to hold the spacer to the output shaft in addition to the 6 bolts. If someone needed a set of these PM me and I can get you the info. 

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20180503_171758.jpg

Edited by onanysunday

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Went with the REM polish and they is purdy. 2D reverse gear left and S4 right. 

20180503_132854.jpg

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It could be the pictures but it looks like the cable for the shifter will not have room with the fuel pump there. The cable and the mount that isn't on the trans sticks out over an inch, more if the spacer block is used. On my PBS swap, I didn't find out that I had an issue in just that spot because the cable mount and the shifter lever where not on the trans when I mocked it all up. It would have been much easier had I had those part attached to the trans during mock up. 

Cool project!

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5 minutes ago, SANDPSYCHO said:

It could be the pictures but it looks like the cable for the shifter will not have room with the fuel pump there. The cable and the mount that isn't on the trans sticks out over an inch, more if the spacer block is used. On my PBS swap, I didn't find out that I had an issue in just that spot because the cable mount and the shifter lever where not on the trans when I mocked it all up. It would have been much easier had I had those part attached to the trans during mock up. 

Cool project!

If you look at pic 2 in post 1 you can see the shift shaft arm where the cable attaches. There are multiple holes so you can go in from the top and down at an angle if needed.

With my spacers the axle will have more plunge and most likely I will have to either cut one and and machine a new snap ring groove or weld extensions on the outer aluminum caps at the hub. I am guessing the axle will get down into the aluminum cap.

 

Edited by onanysunday

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I have the orginal CVs in my car and just flipped them last season. I am wondering how much the 1/2" spacers will change my angle. Hopefully not enough to worry about. Grant?

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1 hour ago, onanysunday said:

I wish there would have been a thread on this so I will do one for the next guy. Front tube between the trailing arms is rough cut out. I had to do a little massaging on the front mount and the trans bolts into both mounts. Probably will do a gusset on the front mount because it is a little thinner. That is if the trans is in the right location which I assume it is. I built some jigs to index the S4 to the exact same location as the 2d was. I am happy my current fuel pump mount will still work. Will need to get creative with the shifter cable bracket because the fuel pump is close. You can see part of my jig set up with the hose clamps. High tech. 

20180503_171319.jpg

20180503_171239.jpg

So the trans mounts are the same on the 2d as is t he s4?   I'll have to check my PBS to see if this is the same.  I'm thinking the rear mount on my car will have to be moved back.

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Let's see this jigg, mounting points in relation to the 2d frame mounts. Under car and how much the trans is exposed. 

Please please please.

:cheers:

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Just now, fastcorvairs said:

So the trans mounts are the same on the 2d as is t he s4?   I'll have to check my PBS to see if this is the same.  I'm thinking the rear mount on my car will have to be moved back.

The front trans mount needed grinding a couple places. Below the cradle and at the top. Once that was done it bolts right in with all 8 bolts. I will take a pic once the trans is back out. I spent about an hour sneaking up on it and did not want to grind to much. It did get a little thin by two of the bolts but not a worry. That is why I might just weld in a couple of triangular brackets. Easy to do.

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1 minute ago, Grease Monkey said:

Let's see this jigg, mounting points in relation to the 2d frame mounts. Under car and how much the trans is exposed. 

Please please please.

:cheers:

Haha, The jigs are high tech made with some rebar. Very effective though. I can't check that until I machine those spacers. Not only that because of the spacers I can't just use the outer of a 930 CV. Had to spend $35 for a chunk of 6" long by 4.5 diameter aluminum. Then need cut slugs to simulate the CV minus .420 thick. (.500 spacers machined .080 deep for my step leaves the .420 that I have to be thinner by. :blink: That is going to be a lot of lathe and mill work. Hopefully tomorrows project.

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5 minutes ago, onanysunday said:

Haha, The jigs are high tech made with some rebar. Very effective though. I can't check that until I machine those spacers. Not only that because of the spacers I can't just use the outer of a 930 CV. Had to spend $35 for a chunk of 6" long by 4.5 diameter aluminum. Then need cut slugs to simulate the CV minus .420 thick. (.500 spacers machined .080 deep for my step leaves the .420 that I have to be thinner by. :blink: That is going to be a lot of lathe and mill work. Hopefully tomorrows project.

Make 4 :js:

 

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Gonna highjack a tad bit and ask @John@Outfront Mtrsprts if his subi bellhousing will fit this trans and help with overall length compared to using the vw to subi Kennedy adapter. John send me a pm please.

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1 minute ago, Grease Monkey said:

Make 4 :js:

 

To much work to make extras. :sha: Plus the cost of the blanks before machining. Not hard just time.

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1 minute ago, Grease Monkey said:

Gonna highjack a tad bit and ask @John@Outfront Mtrsprts if his subi bellhousing will fit this trans and help with overall length compared to using the vw to subi Kennedy adapter. 

The adapter is just a thin plate so I don't think you can gain much if anything. 

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1 minute ago, Grease Monkey said:

Gonna highjack a tad bit and ask @John@Outfront Mtrsprts if his subi bellhousing will fit this trans and help with overall length compared to using the vw to subi Kennedy adapter. 

GM I'm going to use the subi bellhousing that john makes on my PBS.  I have had one on my 2d car for four years now and love it. Sam at Rancho said that it will work on the s4's. All of the liticher said it will work.  Go on John's webb site and it shows the bellhousing.  

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Sitting here thinking. Why couldn't I make a thin steel ring that is .500 wide, inside diameter just enough to slide over the splines of the axle, and OD small enough not to interfere with the CV. This would float between the snap ring and CV and stop the axle from floating any more than it does now. Those 2 rings would be really easy to make.

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10 minutes ago, Grease Monkey said:

Gonna highjack a tad bit and ask @John@Outfront Mtrsprts if his subi bellhousing will fit this trans and help with overall length compared to using the vw to subi Kennedy adapter. 

GM I'm going to use the subi bellhousing that john makes on my PBS.  I have had one on my 2d car for four years now and love it. Sam at Rancho said that it will work on the s4's. All of the liticher said it will work.  Go on John's webb site and it shows the bellhousing.  

https://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/news-and-technology/

Bellhousing400.jpg

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1 minute ago, fastcorvairs said:

GM I'm going to use the subi bellhousing that john makes on my PBS.  I have had one on my 2d car for four years now and love it. Sam at Rancho said that it will work on the s4's. All of the liticher said it will work.  Go on John's webb site and it shows the bellhousing.  

https://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/news-and-technology/

Bellhousing400.jpg

Cool. So I assume the motor bolts right up and no adapter. Duh. Now I get it.

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The neat thing is you can use the stock subi flywheel and clutch.  You don't have the big chunk of metal on the back of the flywheel.  

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5 minutes ago, onanysunday said:

Cool. So I assume the motor bolts right up and no adapter. Duh. Now I get it.

Yup. Thanks and didn't want to get your thread too far off base.

Back to your project.

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11 minutes ago, onanysunday said:

Sitting here thinking. Why couldn't I make a thin steel ring that is .500 wide, inside diameter just enough to slide over the splines of the axle, and OD small enough not to interfere with the CV. This would float between the snap ring and CV and stop the axle from floating any more than it does now. Those 2 rings would be really easy to make.

Are you thinking on both ends of the axle.

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Just now, Grease Monkey said:

Are you thinking on both ends of the axle.

No just the upper trans side. CV is pushed out .500 and the spacer takes up that space.

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3 minutes ago, onanysunday said:

No just the upper trans side. CV is pushed out .500 and the spacer takes up that space.

I don't see why not. If the ID of the adapter allows for some swing clearance of that end, go for it. My imagineering says it should work.

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