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stumpalump

Chassis swap

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Big day today! Doug welded up shock mounts and the car is finally on the ground on all four tires.  

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When the shifter shaft is the right length the shifter should be straight up and down in neutral. I got that but it would not go into first and second easy so I losened this set screew and it works. Is there a proper way to set the two set screews on the sides of pro- am shifters? What exactly are these and why do we even need them? How do you set them?

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53 minutes ago, stumpalump said:

When the shifter shaft is the right length the shifter should be straight up and down in neutral. I got that but it would not go into first and second easy so I losened this set screew and it works. Is there a proper way to set the two set screews on the sides of pro- am shifters? What exactly are these and why do we even need them? How do you set them?

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That’s how you set your side to side throw. Run them in til they just drop into fear smoothly. You shouldn’t feel the notch when you shift. 

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1 hour ago, jtmoney714 said:

That’s how you set your side to side throw. Run them in til they just drop into fear smoothly. You shouldn’t feel the notch when you shift. 

I guess you mean the notch or hump you feel created by the set screew?

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15 minutes ago, stumpalump said:

I guess you mean the notch or hump you feel created by the set screew?

Not really. When you shift from first to second you want to be able to pull it over towards your leg and go straight back without feeling any “notch” as you try to find the gear. And same for 3 to 4 but opposite way. 

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29 minutes ago, jtmoney714 said:

Not really. When you shift from first to second you want to be able to pull it over towards your leg and go straight back without feeling any “notch” as you try to find the gear. And same for 3 to 4 but opposite way. 

Got it thanks! The thing always shifted like a crotch rocket. It will shift like butter if I RPM match at 4000 RPM as well. Best money I ever spent was on the pro am shifter and I just wanted it set perfect. Thanks again.

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My turning radius seems huge. Im used to being able to really knife the tires sidways. I set the alignment to what I usually like but it did not help it much. 4 degrees castor 2 camber and 1/4" toe but both wheels only turn 25 degrees in both directions. I dont see any heims binding and think im just running out of rack. Does 25 degrees seem normal or do I have a problem?

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It sits a high right know but I need to dune it before I start buying springs. What do yo think?

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Seems like you should be able to turn until the inside side wall of the tire damn near touches the a-arm. Maybe more travel I. The rack is necessary?

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It kept me up last night. My rack moves the right amount.  I think my problem was testing on hardpack and I was getting a lot of push. I measured rack travel and its good with nothing binding. Does it look like I have it all together right. No upside down spindle or anything simple I need to know?

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Just a quick look and it doesn't look like you have enough caster. Your uprights look straight up and down or is it just the way i'm looking at it.   Should have about eight to ten degrees negative.  

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flip your front tires around so the ribs are backward of where they should be. your wheel off set is pushing the tires out far from where the "scrub radius" should be. see the pic below. you want the red lines to both meet at the ground in the same spot to minimize scrub. pushing tires out increases this and reduces turning radius and give you that "pushing" in the sand. Granted, there are other things that can cause this too but your setup looks really good from pics. this is the most obvious thing i see. 

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this line is not realistic to where your SAI is but this is what you want to look at in relation to where the tires center is as it hits the ground but ill bet the line doesnt even go under the tire if you look at it without these funky angles of the pic. 

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Edited by Chevy1925

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I thought the rim off set was centerd but looking at the DWT site I dont think so. Good eye. I'll flip the tires. Thats a great idea thanks! The castor is set at 4 degrees. I generally set castor for way to squirly and then put in enough to make it go straight with too much work.  Its a personal preference and due to buggy limitations. I can't run the drags or Olds  becaise of the ecotec/091 tranny but love to slide thru the bowls with the lighter weight. Its only geared to do 80 max and I run 1.2:1 custom built racks so I don't need  power steering. Lower Caster numbers help that so I wind up with as little caster as I can stand. Now that I think about it more Caster angle will make it have a shorter throw on the steering arm so more caster would give a little more steering angle.....idk

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Is there an easy way to square up and align the rear? It has a heim on the outside mount of the trailing arm for adjustment. I've been using a long straight edge off the tire then measuring to the frame in front of and behind the seats to get a little toe out but that cant be the easiest or best wat to be doing it. 

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On ‎11‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 1:04 PM, stumpalump said:

Is there an easy way to square up and align the rear? It has a heim on the outside mount of the trailing arm for adjustment. I've been using a long straight edge off the tire then measuring to the frame in front of and behind the seats to get a little toe out but that cant be the easiest or best wat to be doing it. 

Best if you can, get a center line of the car marked on floor (use a plumb bob). Use this to measure rear toe from. You can use a framing square to go up against tire on inside edge and put a mark on floor. You need to make sure car is level from side to side to do this properly.

I should add, check each tire on front and rear, not left to right side as actual center of each hub may not be equal side to side. 

 

 

Edited by Richard H

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^^^This

Using a plumb bob in the front and rear, we set up a string line down the center of the car just below the floor and used that as a reference to measure the rear toe. Jack up the rear wheels so they will spin and use a sharpi held stationary on the floor to mark the paddles as a reference point, then measure in to your string line in front and back of the tire. I think you got that part already. There are several ways to measure camber, an easy way is to just set a straight edge against the tire and use an angle finder on it. 

The rear arms on our car are mounted without an outside heim, we had to adjust the plates with tacks and after we got them where we wanted them, welded them in. The alignment was relatively close to where we wanted it after welding. It took a few hours to get it set up but it was time well spent. 

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That worked and I think the car is squared up nice.  Thanks! One thing that seems really weird on this chassis is the uprights for the front shocks. They are strong but not atached to the uper frame tubes. Should these be welded to the tube above them or are they left free floating for a reason? 

 

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Those need to be tied into that tube for sure. 

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5 hours ago, fortyfour said:

Those need to be tied into that tube for sure. 

I agree and it could be something small  just to tie together. I would use something like a piece of 1/2" tubing.

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If it were mine, I would use plate and box it in the middle to tie in the tube, shock risers and bulkhead in the center. If you didn't want to cut 2 pieces, a single piece of 1/4 in the center would probably do. You could put a 3" hole in the middle so it wouldn't be so solid looking.  I don't know how your shocks are set up, but if they run out of travel on a transition or hard hit you will bend those risers up and make fixing it difficult. 

Adding a weld washer to each side of the shock bolt hole wouldn't hurt either.  

Edited by fortyfour

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Yes it need to be attached, I would add a tab that uses the 1/2" shock bolt hole  on both sides of the tower(like a weld washer)then extends to the top of the round tube welding both sides and top of surface that touches tube. It needs support forwards and back also so the tower doesn't flex over and over  that plate is holding the entire weight of that corner of the car plus the load of the car momentarily when u land on one tire first. I added in two tubes to the top of my shock tower to stabilize it in the picture it was only attached at the bottom two tubes from the manufacturer.

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The car did great great at Glamis!  As it sits with a very full fuel tank, spare parts , tools, drinking water, air compressor, and whatever sand I picked up the car weighs 1764 pound.  Right rear is 671. LR is 633. R front is 225 and LF 235. The springs and valving are off. Can anybody take a basic stab at a good starting point on spring rates or valve stacks? 100/250 on front bottoms out. 500/600 rear is beating me to death.  

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Forgot the pics. Fox 2.0 res front and King 2.5 rear. No bypass.

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Edited by stumpalump

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The front Fox 2.0’s were blowing thru travel and rebounding too fast so I pulled them apart to to revalve and respring. One shock was good and the other had the largest compression spring under the rebound stack. Its suposed to be a smaller diameter. Pogo with no compression or rebound. I left the standard 40#-60# valve stack alone for now with fresh oil and 200/250springs. Filthy Motorsports has a great spring rate calculator that was used. 

Rear King oil was filthy black. They got the full O-Ring rebuild kit including the resivior. Rebuilding is stupid simple in case you ever want to do it and it would be hard to mess up. Foddrills helped with all parts  and excellent advise as usual. Spring slider was cracked, sperical end bearing was bad, bottom out bumpers missing, O-Ring  kit and oil was all the shelf including the springs I needed. 350/600. All that may change but at least I’m in the ball park.

The the front A-arms were on backwards. Thats the way I got it causing the spring to be really close to the arm. They were very close but not quite right. I tweeked my alignment to 5 degrees castor from 4. One degree camber down from 2. 1/8” toe out from 1/4” toe in should reduce understeer coming out of turns and initiate turns better but to be honest it drove great. I think its proper to load the driver seat when doing suspension and alignment. Floyd sits in the drivers seat while I do it. He consists of 20 gallons of fuel and a 55# anvil on the floor. Next stop is Dumont!

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One of the gurus in our camp sugested a heel rest in front of the throttle. Suposed to give better throttle control and is a way to help hold your self in place. I  bolted a piece of aluminum angle to the floor. Have you ever seen this before?

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I ran a set of stock tires on my first ride but hate them. They dont slide because if you look at them from the side it might as well be a knobby. Those two lines don’t help either.

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The meat hook side scoops need to go and they never seem to do a very neat job removing the paddles between the ones you use. These tires has 1/4”raised rubber in spots where the factory cut the extra paddles off.

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Welding gloves are a must when fooling with a tire groving iron. You dont need to be that precice and you can take little bites off. Just get close to the profile you want and let a belt sander or any sander clean up your work.  I even sand off the two lines that are molded into the sidewall to help it slide. When stock they stick, stick stick then breakfree all at one. Blasters have a reputation of catching and fliping cars. I’m in that club so I cut off the side scoops and round the whole edge that is the leading edge of the slide. Its magic and my favorit thing to do to make drifts, turns and powerslides super predicatable. This after the belt sander cleaned up the tire.

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Slick as a babys arse compaired to the way you buy them and you will never go back to stock tires once you do this. It even says on the STU site that there tires are groovable but I don’t ever see it done. If they wont spin up or it feels like it bogs on the long climb you can cut a strip off the entire paddle to tune the height to your car. That makes them a lot easier on the tranny. 

 

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