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danbalz

A arm conversion.

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Ok. So two trips left in the season and i broke a fodrill front arm. Was able to borrow a friends arm to finish the season out. Now is the best time to do my A arm conversion i've been planning for a while. Here is my first 3 weeks of progress.

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Looks nice - how long were the Spuds you used to connect the tubes?

Are you going to put upper tubes for braces...

 

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3 inch slugs in main rails--upper tube when arms are on and adjust height for upper shock mount. Still have a lot of lacing to do but i really want to mock up arms first.

 

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Looking great Dan! Did you throw the old front chunk on a scale?

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Very cool thread looking good.

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Some great skills.

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I did this a few years back. You wont be sorry. My car is so much better after the conversion.

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Selling your old shit? :sraptor:

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looks nice

 

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Cool beans! I did mine last summer, with the new a-arm front end I was able to drive much faster in the dunes.

I didn't quite cut mine back as far as you had to. Looks good.

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Dang...looks good keep posting progress pics!

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Looking good so far. Its gonna make a huge difference

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front beam parts for sale--fodrill 4 inch arms (3 total one in two pieces. lol ) rack, drop spindles.tie rods.

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15 hours ago, stumpalump said:

Looking great Dan! Did you throw the old front chunk on a scale?

not yet but its heavy.

 

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2 hours ago, Hondo said:

Looking good so far. Its gonna make a huge difference

Hope so. I had the beam working pretty good but its so hard to get the shock valving correct with long arms because of the leverage change during travel.

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A little more progress. Doing the first set of arms out of .120 wall  DOM then making a jig to do the main set in chromoly. I have a freind who can tig them for me. a couple of questions, my hopes were to make the arms identical so this mock up set coulld be spares. The lower shock mounts might be a problem but i was  thinking if i had tabs on top and bottom should not be a problem for spares. Alot depends on the overall shock length and my upper mounts. So for the question could i put another 1 inch tube inside to make the arms thicker and not run gussets under lower arm ? Any input would be good. 

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personally, i wouldnt even worry about having spares. if you kill the .120 wall chomoly arm and it wasnt from hitting a tree, rock, quad, i dont think the spares would last long as DOM lol. you would have to really build them "wrong" though for that. im betting alot of guys would run the .120 dom as is if its just a dune car. your car is lighter than most anyhow. keep that as a tacked jig deal, then dismantel and use for a later project.

Also, id make those arms longer if possible but i dont know what travel numbers you are trying to hit. you can probably get more length without making wheel base wider just by changing mount points on the frame to be closer to center and farther back on the side. they look very similar to mine as is and i get 15" of wheel travel out of the front before camber goes wonky. id also do a 10" stroke shock at min, mine are 8" with the 5/8 shaft and the motion ratio mades getting valving to work a pain. 

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2 hours ago, danbalz said:

A little more progress. Doing the first set of arms out of .120 wall  DOM then making a jig to do the main set in chromoly. I have a freind who can tig them for me. a couple of questions, my hopes were to make the arms identical so this mock up set coulld be spares. The lower shock mounts might be a problem but i was  thinking if i had tabs on top and bottom should not be a problem for spares. Alot depends on the overall shock length and my upper mounts. So for the question could i put another 1 inch tube inside to make the arms thicker and not run gussets under lower arm ? Any input would be good. 

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The arms on my car are all 1.25x.120 wall DOM with nothing else inside or outside. I've never had a problem with them. You will need a bar just outside of where the inner heim joints are.

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Edited by scott24

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Cool project.  Looks like a Chenowth Explorer?  I had a Chenowth Genesis full A arm car for a long time and loved it.  In fact, I have a brand new spare set of front A arms sitting on the shelf I'd give you but it looks like you already built a set.

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Yeah chenowth explorer. Had it for 15 years. Added 30 bars to the bare frame. It started with a supercharged toyota 1600 now it has a nissan 3.0 .

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Really happy with last nights progress. Got the upper arms in and was able to cycle the suspension. So in 20 inches of travel im showing 2 degress camber change (wife reading the angle finder so not to sure) and caster staying at 5 degress the whole time. What do you guys think about leaving the arms DOM and gusseting them ? Any input on caster setting , going from a beam that was never a issue.

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Dude your work looks really nice but your geometry is far from ideal...

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1 minute ago, Glamisdave said:

Dude your work looks really nice but your geometry is far from ideal...

what do you mean ?

 

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zero change in castor is good, but the lack of positive camber, not so good, plus side it should handle kinda like the beam did, but that is a lot of work to keep same geometry  

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Take zero offense to this...

But have you studied suspension design any, or just winging it?

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