Jump to content
danbalz

A arm conversion.

Recommended Posts

camber can totally be adjusted at heims. need a little positive camber at ride hieght than mid travel will probably be zero camber. it was late last night and just wanted to see it cycle. Studied some. look at a lot of designs and tryng to fallow funco design. Didnt want to build arms that attached to A pillar and come foward and front bar meet in middle The ruts in the sand these days are really bad  and railing a bowl at 50 plus is a lot of side loading and with that design you only have the front bar supporting you. With my design the rear arm is giving support also. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/11/2018 at 12:59 PM, Glamisdave said:

zero change in castor is good, but the lack of positive camber, not so good, plus side it should handle kinda like the beam did, but that is a lot of work to keep same geometry  

You mean negative camber? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright guys. Show me some pictures of you lower shock mounting. I have dual shocks and came up with this. Going to cut out center one inch tube to incorporate the shocks and run the long one inch tube into center between shock. Obviously going to shear bottom gusset. Oh yah no way to make arms interchangeable.  Scrape that idea.

1526228796411.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎5‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 9:33 AM, danbalz said:

Alright guys. Show me some pictures of you lower shock mounting. I have dual shocks and came up with this. Going to cut out center one inch tube to incorporate the shocks and run the long one inch tube into center between shock. Obviously going to shear bottom gusset. Oh yah no way to make arms interchangeable.  Scrape that idea.

1526228796411.jpg

 

DSCN0243.jpg

DSCN0247.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎5‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 3:52 PM, Rockwood said:

You mean negative camber? 

Oops, yeah your right, at full drop and full compression there should be negative camber (top of tire tilted in), with almost zero at ride height with upper spindle joint and lower spindle joint making an imaginary line to center of tire contact patch (kingpin angle)

Edited by Glamisdave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Glamisdave said:

Oops, yeah your right, at full drop and full compression there should be negative camber (top of tire tilted in), with almost zero at ride height with upper spindle joint and lower spindle joint making an imaginary line to center of tire contact patch (kingpin angle)

Agree. Some negative camber helps maintain the contact patch under body roll. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Rockwood said:

Agree. Some negative camber helps maintain the contact patch under body roll. 

This and the tire deforms and twists under the contact patch quite a bit if you run typical 10ish pounds of air. 

In reality the way Dan can lead and haul azz....As long as the tires stay inflated he's good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, stumpalump said:

This and the tire deforms and twists under the contact patch quite a bit if you run typical 10ish pounds of air. 

In reality the way Dan can lead and haul azz....As long as the tires stay inflated he's good.

LOL, nice!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well got my lower shock mount figured out. I really like the outcome. Now to make upper frame rail to a pillar and set my upper mount

sandrail28.jpg

sandrail29.jpg

sandrail30.jpg

sandrail31.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
44 minutes ago, danbalz said:

Well got my lower shock mount figured out. I really like the outcome. Now to make upper frame rail to a pillar and set my upper mount

sandrail28.jpg

sandrail29.jpg

sandrail30.jpg

sandrail31.jpg

I don't know if you just used the rear internal bypass shock for lower spacer fabrication, But I would recommend equal length shocks and stroke, so that you can run a 2.0 external tube bypass shock, for easy damping adjustment.. .. At his point since you have a blank canvass it would seem foolish not to imho. and not have to refab to upgrade to that later.

just my .02

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, SCHMIDTY said:

I don't know if you just used the rear internal bypass shock for lower spacer fabrication, But I would recommend equal length shocks and stroke, so that you can run a 2.0 external tube bypass shock, for easy damping adjustment.. .. At his point since you have a blank canvass it would seem foolish not to imho. and not have to refab to upgrade to that later.

just my .02

Already own old school position sensitive shocks same 10 inch stroke but emulsion tube are a little less travel. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mocked up upper frame rail. Cycled shocks. Still need to notch the upper rail to A pillar junction and drop that bar down.That notch is going to SUCK. Should get close to 18 inch travel with some 2-3 degrees camber change but im not to worried about that. Hell were are not road racing. The sand doesnt really care about camber change its a unstable environment.

sandrail10.jpg

sandrail11.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Capitain coors kicked in and i figured i shouldnt cut metal. Maybe tomorrow....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/16/2018 at 11:16 PM, danbalz said:

Capitain coors kicked in and i figured i shouldnt cut metal. Maybe tomorrow....

Where are you located?  I've got one of these (for 1.5" tube):

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfr-p-t050?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-pipemaster&gclid=CjwKCAjw8_nXBRAiEiwAXWe2yfFWFb5k7MiNx8szCfxRtQj45zQPxWcgAkXXeuBMEf4bxEpJ4m8D_hoCdRgQAvD_BwE

Sitting around gathering dust.

Edited by Rockwood

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Rockwood said:

I live in norco. Wow the price of those went way down. I remember those came out years ago they were very expensive. Price has come way down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, danbalz said:

I live in norco. Wow the price of those went way down. I remember those came out years ago they were very expensive. Price has come way down.

Too far to be worth borrowing.

Yeah.  Bought mine at the SSSS a couple of years ago.  Works great!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Rockwood said:

That's cheating, I've made it my whole life without one of those but it sure would be handy to have one....not going to lie!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, 2turbofords said:

That's cheating, I've made it my whole life without one of those but it sure would be handy to have one....not going to lie!

Yeah that is cheating but i might have to order one. Already notched that tube last night by hand. came out good but it took me 2.5 hours to get it to fit he way i want

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

do you have the spindle heim joint bungs going straight into the tubes or are you going to cut the ends so you can put the bung in so the heim points straight out? in the lower arm pics looks like they would be angled backwards and even with high misalignment spacers, there is a good chance that will limit steering a decent amount. Are the shocks as close to perpendicular to the arms as they can be when at full bump and mounted up?

its lookin good!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, 2turbofords said:

That's cheating, I've made it my whole life without one of those but it sure would be handy to have one....not going to lie!

It is most certainly cheating, but tube is a rotten bastard to fit right, so everything’s fair game. :) 

30 minutes ago, danbalz said:

Yeah that is cheating but i might have to order one. Already notched that tube last night by hand. came out good but it took me 2.5 hours to get it to fit he way i want

This was why. Worst part was when you get it just perfect, only to realize you had rotated it a little and the other side now features a nice 1/4” gap. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

It is most certainly cheating, but tube is a rotten bastard to fit right, so everything’s fair game. :) 

This was why. Worst part was when you get it just perfect, only to realize you had rotated it a little and the other side now features a nice 1/4” gap. 

HAHAHA yeah or its just right but the front still needs to come back 1/2 inch

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
56 minutes ago, Chevy1925 said:

do you have the spindle heim joint bungs going straight into the tubes or are you going to cut the ends so you can put the bung in so the heim points straight out? in the lower arm pics looks like they would be angled backwards and even with high misalignment spacers, there is a good chance that will limit steering a decent amount. Are the shocks as close to perpendicular to the arms as they can be when at full bump and mounted up?

its lookin good!

Still working on top shock mounts. not perpendicular but fairly close. I would have to bring shocks up higher and out more and i think the frame wouldnt look good that way. As far as thw spindles go they hit the hiem at right turn. Just need to clearance them alittle and i should get at least as much turning as before.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, danbalz said:

Still working on top shock mounts. not perpendicular but fairly close. I would have to bring shocks up higher and out more and i think the frame wouldnt look good that way. As far as thw spindles go they hit the hiem at right turn. Just need to clearance them alittle and i should get at least as much turning as before.

10-4. biggest thing i learned is to keep the shock from going over 90* from perpendicular to the arm. puts the shock in a falling rate and you loose the dampening control of the valving with it. if you are less than 90*, you are still good. pic to explain where im saying "90*"since it can be different depending on side you are looking at

shock layout.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Chevy1925 said:

10-4. biggest thing i learned is to keep the shock from going over 90* from perpendicular to the arm. puts the shock in a falling rate and you loose the dampening control of the valving with it. if you are less than 90*, you are still good. pic to explain where im saying "90*"since it can be different depending on side you are looking at

shock layout.png

Understood. doesnt reach 90 degress. Yeah i know the failing rate i had a beam with 4 inch over arms. That required many valving changes to get decent.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Preview Post

More Links

©2001 GlamisDunes.com.
All rights reserved.

×
×
  • Create New...