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danbalz

A arm conversion.

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First major setback. Spent 2.5 hours notching the upper rail. Really happy with the outcome. Mocked up shocks and that F@#!in bar needs to be one inch taller in the front to get the shocks to work better. Out comes the cut off wheel and start over. The good new is I odered the pipemaster. So the cheating begins. Also order some high clearnce shock tabs they might be the solution but i think it will take both an new bar and new tabs to get it just right.

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Looking good man...

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So waiting for pipemaster I built a jig for the lower arm and finished plating it and welding. Cut out upperrail and bent new bar. It is much better and i like my shock mounting. Traded droop for bump by bringing the rail higher. Also got high clearance tabs that are perfect. Tried out pipemaster for that 3 way junction. What a time saver. Might even get a one inch one for all the lacing i need to  do. Still need to do a little grinding on that junction. Hope to finish rail,shock mounts and get right side arms started. With the 3 day weekend i would love to see it with both tires on.

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Nice!

FYI: with the tabs mounted on the side of the tube, they tend to tear out.  I'd make sure to box them in and put a support bar across to spread the load.  

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It's looking good. 

 

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1 hour ago, Rockwood said:

Nice!

FYI: with the tabs mounted on the side of the tube, they tend to tear out.  I'd make sure to box them in and put a support bar across to spread the load.  

I plan to. All the lacing and bracing after suspension is done and steering finished.

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Good progress his weekend. Finished arms and got them tacked in. Getting 18 inches of travel out of her. Hoping to finish the lower arm and get right side shocks in by next weekend. Then comes the next hurdle getting the right rack and hopefully get no bump steer.

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15 minutes ago, danbalz said:

Good progress his weekend. Finished arms and got them tacked in. Getting 18 inches of travel out of her. Hoping to finish the lower arm and get right side shocks in by next weekend. Then comes the next hurdle getting the right rack and hopefully get no bump steer.

 

 

 

Getting the spreader bar correct on the rack is crucial. Width and height of the inner pivots in relation to the arm lengths and position of steering arm is very important to eliminating bumpsteer. An incorrect position by as little as 1/4" makes a huge difference between no bumpsteer and tons of it. Its definitely worth the extra time and effort in making it right. I have spent many hours of cycling and rebuilding spreader bars by raising and lowering or spreading or narrowing the inner tie rod points to make it right. Our cars will go thru the whoops at 80 and you can take your hands off the wheel. I now share that same proven geometry with several different cars. 

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This weekend progress went great. Finished the right side arm and got shocks set. Im so happy with the outcome. Now on to the steering. Going to have Bob at RBP make me a custom end load rack. It looks like i need 20.5 inch spread. Any input on getting the rack gear 1 inch or 1.5 my old beam rack was only 1 inch and it served me well for many years and it was the chinese one and it still was fine after running EPS through it. Also any suggestions on holding the rack in place while cycling the suspension and making fine adjustments, Once i find my location ill bend some front down bars for the mount but that needs too be done after the rack is placed properly.

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Big hose clamps and a pool noodle. Use the clamps to rotate and squish the pool noodle down until you have the right spot. 

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if it were me, this is what i would do.

grab yourself some weld in bungs and the heims you will be using for both the inner and outer pivot. i am assuming you are building your own tie rods so you can use the weld in bungs. then take the bungs with you to home depot or lowes and figure out what size PVC they fit in best. if they are sloppy, dont worry about it, a few slices along the tube and a hose clamp will take care of that. for the center "steering rack", get a larger piece of PVC that you can notch and drill two holes in the end to hold the heims. grab some couplers for each size and bring them home.

i would then start playing with the rack pvc both forwards and backwards as well as up and down. for the mean time, place the rack pvc half the distance between the upper and lower control arm frame mounts (the ones at the front of the car). for width, imagine a line drawn through the front upper and lower control arm pivots, you want the heim rack pivots to be inline with that imaginary line. This is just a starting guide, not where it should actually be. where the rack PVC should be front or back, i would put it directly in line with the spindle tie rod mounts. then build your tie rods to fit, set toe to 0 and start cycling the suspension. measure toe at full bump and droop. start moving the rack around or shortening/widening it to eliminate as much bump steer as possible. honestly the rack PVC width will probably be wider than the imaginary line i talked about and height may vary a bit depending on the height of the spindles tie rod mount between the LCA and UCA mount point on the spindle. 

since its PVC, its easy to cut, lengthen, shorten, and move

i built the links for my tracker this way and redid part of the front end of my sand car this way as well. 

7937cea9dcda6cad8e366efd9cd5b637.heic
 

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I'm all for using PVC, and some hose clamps... but if you can use metal conduit it's much easier and you can tack weld ends and use the actual bungs  in place...carry on good job

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Got the steering figured out. Thanks for the input. The pcv was the way to go. I used a section of flat reinforced flat stock and tried many different locations.No automatic alt text available.Image may contain: bicycle                                       Boy you guys were right about 1/4 inch of rack placement can make 2 inches of bump steer. I wouldnt have believed it would make that much difference. So rack is ordered. Got plenty of stuff to do while i wait.

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Looking good.

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On 6/10/2018 at 11:32 AM, danbalz said:

Got the steering figured out. Thanks for the input. The pcv was the way to go. I used a section of flat reinforced flat stock and tried many different locations.No automatic alt text available.Image may contain: bicycle                                       Boy you guys were right about 1/4 inch of rack placement can make 2 inches of bump steer. I wouldnt have believed it would make that much difference. So rack is ordered. Got plenty of stuff to do while i wait.

good to hear! looks like she coming right along!

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On 6/10/2018 at 1:32 PM, danbalz said:

Got the steering figured out. Thanks for the input. The pcv was the way to go. I used a section of flat reinforced flat stock and tried many different locations.No automatic alt text available.Image may contain: bicycle                                       Boy you guys were right about 1/4 inch of rack placement can make 2 inches of bump steer. I wouldnt have believed it would make that much difference. So rack is ordered. Got plenty of stuff to do while i wait.

Next up Rack Snuggy Go to PM with this Don't want to hijack this thread.  

New phone 12-2014 030.jpg

Edited by fastcorvairs

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2 hours ago, fastcorvairs said:

Next up Rack Snuggy Go to PM with this Don't want to hijack this thread.  

New phone 12-2014 030.jpg

x2!!

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So rack came in, Spent weekend figuring out how to mount it. Think I got it...No automatic alt text available.Image may contain: one or more peopleNo automatic alt text available.No automatic alt text available.No automatic alt text available.

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You need to mount it semi rigid and cycle the suspension to check for bump steer. Clamp some scrap steel to the frame to hold the rack while you cycle.  You would be shocked how much minor adjustments make. 

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9 minutes ago, punkur67 said:

You need to mount it semi rigid and cycle the suspension to check for bump steer. Clamp some scrap steel to the frame to hold the rack while you cycle.  You would be shocked how much minor adjustments make. 

he did that in previous posts. i believe what he is stating how is how he will fasten the rack to the car while keeping it where it should be. 

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5 minutes ago, punkur67 said:

You need to mount it semi rigid and cycle the suspension to check for bump steer. Clamp some scrap steel to the frame to hold the rack while you cycle.  You would be shocked how much minor adjustments make. 

This.  I used hoseclamps to get it close (you could build different sized spacers out of wood), then mounts with giant holes in them to get it "perfect" (beam buggy, so compromises will always be present), tacked appropriate size washers in place, then built the final mount off of that. 

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Just now, Chevy1925 said:

he did that in previous posts. i believe what he is stating how is how he will fasten the rack to the car while keeping it where it should be. 

That was with his own spreader though, not the actual rack.  Always best to verify before using the magic metal melter... :bigrin 

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16 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

That was with his own spreader though, not the actual rack.  Always best to verify before using the magic metal melter... :bigrin 

oh for sure :bigrin

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What you guys dont think the bungee cords will work ?  I splurged on the heavy duty ones from Harbor Freight . Just kidding I am going to use 1/4 x 2 inch flat stock between front down bars. Ill make the plate then adjust and tack until im happy. Then build something to catch the backside also.

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Latest progress. Got the rack mounted, still have one bar to go. EPS main mount positioned and mounted. Still need front mount fabbed just waiting for shock cross brace to be made.No automatic alt text available.No automatic alt text available.No automatic alt text available.No automatic alt text available.

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