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jwest2sh

2000 F250 7.3 upgrades (Manual hubs installed)

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Ok...so I just bought a 2000 F250 7.3 4X4 CCSB.  It has 4" lift with 35" tires.  I bought it sight unseen from a place in Utah called
Diesel Deals.  I had it shipped to Riverside and drove it home to San Diego from there.  The thing drove like a dumptruck!  Pulling all over the road, the driver's window stuck down, boost leak from a torn intercooler boot and it was a complete dog...no power at all.  I got it home and notice it was missing the back half of two rear leaf springs...completely snapped off at the lift block!!! WTF! Now I'm stuck with it so I'm bringing it back to life with some performance upgrades and general maintenance.  It only has 130K on it and the truck is in pretty good shape cosmetically.  Here's what I've done so far...I had it aligned, all new fluids including, coolant, oil, synthetic ATF in the trans, synthetic ATF in the PS/hydroboost system and all new filters.  I did the cold air S&B intake, Banks 4" turbo back monster exhaust, Hydra chip, Dieselsite mechanical waste gate actuator, Wicked Wheel II turbo wheel, Mishimoto intercooler boots, sinister diesel coolant filter, new coolant reservoir, new window motor, new door lock pin switch and door catch, auto meter triple gauge pod with EGT, Trans temp and Boost, new leaf springs, new rear driveshaft center support, fox shocks, viper alarm and a couple other minor things.  I have the waste gate set at a max of 30PSI of boost and it gets there quick.  This thing runs like a raped ape now!  It's actually fun to drive.  I plan on doing a lot more upgrades down the road but I'm trying to get it road worthy right now.  I parked in the driveway today and noticed a small spot of coolant on the ground on the front right side.  I located a wet spot where the aluminum part of the radiator meets the plastic side tank. 

First question: Do I replace it with a stock radiator just to have this happen in the near future or do I go with the Mishimoto all aluminum replacement.  They are claiming 20-30% more cooling with theirs.  I read some reviews on it and some guys say it needs to be modified to work and wasn't that great of a fit for $800.  Had anyone put one in their 7.3 F250?  Is cooling an issue with these trucks with the stock radiator?  I know the stock trans cooler is a joke and I will be going with the mishimoto replacement cooler.

 

Second question: I have a minor vibration under medium to hard acceleration from a stop.  It was really bad before I replaced the center support.  90% of it went away with the new center support but there is still a small amount of vibration.  What could it be?  I had the shop check the U joints and I checked them.  They look good.  It has 4" blocks with no bevel on the rear...could that be causing just enough angle between the pinion yoke and the driveshaft to make a vibration?  I would think I would feel that at freeways speeds too....but it goes away after about 20 MPH.  Normal starts there is no vibration. 

 

Third question:  What else should I be looking at?  I know the steering system sucks on these trucks...too much scrub angle, especially with bigger tires.  I will be going with a hydraulic ram assist kit in the near future. 

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks,

~jw  

IMG_0004[1].JPG

Edited by jwest2sh
update

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Check the up pipes, common to leak at manifold behind turbo. You can see it by looking up under truck and will show black soot on them. I replaced mine around 150k with Internationals bellowed pipes from Riffraff. Radiator, never have had an issue with stock unit and now have 230k on truck. Maintaining condition of coolant is important on this motor.

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i pull a 48 ft trailer never got it hot even when i first brought it to glamis in august  so o think a stock rad is fine

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Woe you have done a lot of upgrades! Nice looking truck.

I have the same truck but 2003. I'm not a mechanic but I'm thinking you have a 2 piece driveshaft and you changed the center carrier bearing. 

Did you notice if there was a spacer?

Spacer will lower the center carrier bearing.

I had an 8 inch lift then went to a 4 inch so I can tow my 5th wheel. When they replaced the suspension lift they didn't add the spacer so I had some vibration. Spacer solved that. 

I got mine from Rough Country and took about 30 mins to do.

I'm gonna replace my radiator since my truck is old. Thinking of going with an OEM type since this has lasted me 15 years and 130k miles.

Mishimoto is nice but pricey. I tow approx 15k and no heating issues.

 

I added a trans cooler 

Tru-Cool Max LPD47391 47391 and installed myself. No heating issues. Bought from Amazon.

Hope this helps.

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Stock replacement radiator will be fine also do a new reservoir. Like mentioned before check for a drop bracket on carrier bearing and blocks should have pinion angle on them. Check out Icon Suspension they have their stuff dialed with proper angle on their blocks and carrier drop. You can also do a 6.0 trans cooler huge difference. Look into a Readhead steering box, I think it’ll be better than a ram assist. 

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Look at the Red Head steering box. Made my truck better than new.

Look for shims for the carrier bearing. Add and take out until your vibration goes away. I had to replace the carrier bearing and then start shimming out my vibration with my 4.5 inch lift

I've replaced my Digas bottle 3 times in my 02. Look into that. Leak appeared in the same area.

6.0 trans  cooler is a great upgrade. 

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I think the slight vibration under acceleration is axle wrap. I have the same issue with mine and is more pronounced on an incline. I also agree that you should have a tapered block. How much did you pay for the truck if you don't mind me asking ??

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you can replace the pucks in the window motors...youtube it....the pucks are like 10.00 on ebay for a whole crap load.

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You need to dial your boost down to 25psi.  Anything over that's gonna wear that turbo out.   

  Also that vibration could be axle wrap or a carrier bearing that needs to be shimmed.   

  Stock radiator is fine.  The 6.0 teams cooler is great but nothing wrong with going cheaper and using the tru cool that was mentioned.   

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Its a great looking truck jw. Im on my 2nd 7.3 (2001) these things are cold blooded. They do not get warm period. I replaced my radiator years ago with lifetime warranty autozone factory replacement and its been fine. I also went with final charge nitrate free coolant at that time. The best parts supplier is riffraffdiesel.com. Always ships same day and best prices on factory ford parts. Keep a cam position sensor in your glove box. As far as ride goes. Check your front spring code. A popular cheap 2” lift was using factory ford snowplow front springs. Mine used to have them and it was rough.  I am now running stock 04 f250 front springs with 4” brackets and ride is soooo much better. Check your pinion angle motor mounts and tranny mount. It may not be driveline, its common to feel a bad power steering or even ac pump at idle and under acceleration. Is the vibration felt at idle? Or only acceleration? Underload could be starving injectors from weak fuel pump or even weak hpop. 

From what i have read an 05/06 coil front end is pretty much a bolt on mod if you can find donor parts. There are two f250s i have seen In el cajon and alpine with a coil over conversion. I talked to the guy in alpine and his rides way better on kings and turns better. But $$$

enjoy, i’ll keep an eye out for you around town. I for some reason notice every 7.3 superduty. 

My 01

21BA6BCD-95E2-42E5-8384-B330754933DD.jpeg

Edited by sausage450r

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5 hours ago, sausage450r said:

I for some reason notice every 7.3 superduty. 

Me too. My 2003's been in storage for over a year. I go in and start it a couple of times a month. Our daughter's taking it as soon as she completes OCS and has a more permanent assignment that's not overseas. I'll miss it, but I haven't really been driving it since 2012.

A lot of good recommendations in this thread. I'm going to get some done for her before it goes away. Probably going to visit John Wood too.

20180201_142416.jpg

Edited by SofaKing

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While doing work to that motor I would add a new banks turbo housing. Should have done that when installing the wicked wheel. It will give you a ton of more midrange power. Pulling grades, if you let out for an ahole that cuts you off, you will be able to mash the throttle and pick up speed. With the stock housing, once you let out your screwed. Also, I would look into things for your tranny which is the ultimate weak link for that truck. The 6.0 tranny cooler is the bomb along with a deep sump tranny pan. Keep that trans as cool as you can or it will take a shit on you. Lastly, the banks inner cooler is a nice upgrade. Helps keep the egt's down on those long pulls.

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1 hour ago, big_daddy_jp said:

While doing work to that motor I would add a new banks turbo housing. Should have done that when installing the wicked wheel. It will give you a ton of more midrange power. Pulling grades, if you let out for an ahole that cuts you off, you will be able to mash the throttle and pick up speed. With the stock housing, once you let out your screwed. Also, I would look into things for your tranny which is the ultimate weak link for that truck. The 6.0 tranny cooler is the bomb along with a deep sump tranny pan. Keep that trans as cool as you can or it will take a shit on you. Lastly, the banks inner cooler is a nice upgrade. Helps keep the egt's down on those long pulls.

Its the wastegate not the housing that keeps you in the boost. I run a stock housing and banks wastegate is night and day diff (stocker is an all or nothing dump, the banks will hold set pressure) If upgrading turbo just go gtp38 and forget the stock turbo design. When not driving on the freeway, turn your overdrive off. Best preventative action you can utilize to save your tranny. Its the daily 45mph city driving in overdrive that is really killing your tranny

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Curious too if you don't mind sharing the info on what you were comfortable paying for a site unseen workhorse of a truck? I would have been fairly hesitant unless it was a screaming deal...

John Wood will do you right. I have his TowMaster in my 01 and it will pull down a house. 

Could have chosen another guage other than the trans temp. It never gets anywhere near a range to be concerned with. I wish somebody would've told me before I bought the same pod. Been up some hella long and steep grades all over the country and the tranny has never been close to hot.

Sounds like you're well on your way to having a beast. Just turned over 270K on my way back from Pismo yesterday. I'll die before my 7.3!

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2 hours ago, sausage450r said:

Its the wastegate not the housing that keeps you in the boost. I run a stock housing and banks wastegate is night and day diff (stocker is an all or nothing dump, the banks will hold set pressure) If upgrading turbo just go gtp38 and forget the stock turbo design. When not driving on the freeway, turn your overdrive off. Best preventative action you can utilize to save your tranny. Its the daily 45mph city driving in overdrive that is really killing your tranny

I did this turbo. I love it, only draw back is your not going to sneak up and down the street. Your neighbors know who's coming.

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10 hours ago, aceisback said:

Curious too if you don't mind sharing the info on what you were comfortable paying for a site unseen workhorse of a truck? I would have been fairly hesitant unless it was a screaming deal...

John Wood will do you right. I have his TowMaster in my 01 and it will pull down a house. 

Could have chosen another guage other than the trans temp. It never gets anywhere near a range to be concerned with. I wish somebody would've told me before I bought the same pod. Been up some hella long and steep grades all over the country and the tranny has never been close to hot.

Sounds like you're well on your way to having a beast. Just turned over 270K on my way back from Pismo yesterday. I'll die before my 7.3!

Was that before or after the jw transmission ?  The 4r100 absolutely gets hot it's a known issue.   Even with a tru cool transmission cooler and a built tranny I'd still get to 200 pulling a big grade during summer.  

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58 minutes ago, kofire said:

Was that before or after the jw transmission ?  The 4r100 absolutely gets hot it's a known issue.   Even with a tru cool transmission cooler and a built tranny I'd still get to 200 pulling a big grade during summer.  

Did you ever check that your fluid bypass valve was functional? I have a stock 4r100 with 70k miles and its never been above 190 even towing in the summer

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1 hour ago, kofire said:

Was that before or after the jw transmission ?  The 4r100 absolutely gets hot it's a known issue.   Even with a tru cool transmission cooler and a built tranny I'd still get to 200 pulling a big grade during summer.  

200 isn't transmission death.

Most cars cool the transmission fluid through the radiator, with tube contact to the coolant, where operating temps are over 200 degrees.

In a modern lockup transmission, city traffic is worse for a trans than towing.

Edited by Kraut_n_Rice

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1 hour ago, kofire said:

Was that before or after the jw transmission ?  The 4r100 absolutely gets hot it's a known issue.   Even with a tru cool transmission cooler and a built tranny I'd still get to 200 pulling a big grade during summer.  

I didn't add the pod with guages until I had the John Wood trans installed. Along with his TowMaster he installs the larger cooler so that may make all of the difference in the world.

Reason I got a John Wood trans in the first place is I was attempting to back a loaded 28ft hauler in the sand at Glamis and the stock trans kind of came undone. He showed me the death and destruction on the bench once he pulled it. It was a site.

Words of wisdom from a very 4r100 knowledgeable fella: anytime backing with a load on a Super Duty make sure you use 4WD Low. Something about fluids and pressures at that setting that save your transmission. Wish someone would've told me that beforehand. John is probably kept in business by retirees who spend alot of time backing into campsites at parks and resorts...

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I love my manual hubs on my 95....I just back in 2wd low....

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1 hour ago, sausage450r said:

Did you ever check that your fluid bypass valve was functional? I have a stock 4r100 with 70k miles and its never been above 190 even towing in the summer

Of course it was. What do you tow? I towed at or above GCVWR often.    If the stock cooler was adequate then the aftermarket cooler and 6.0 upgrade that almost everyone has suggested wouldn't be brought up. The original poster even acknowledged that the stock cooler is a joke.    A Google search will tell you that the 4r100 was designed to stay cool at towing temps. What the engineers didn't account for is once the load is heavy enough and the grade steep enough the truck can't keep up the needed speed to move enough air over the cooler.   

   

Edited by kofire

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50 minutes ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

200 isn't transmission death.

Most cars cool the transmission fluid through the radiator, with tube contact to the coolant, where operating temps are over 200 degrees.

In a modern lockup transmission, city traffic is worse for a trans than towing.

Well no but that transmission will not handle those temps for long.    Why risk it when the issue can easily be solved with an aftermarket cooler.   

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29 minutes ago, aceisback said:

I didn't add the pod with guages until I had the John Wood trans installed. Along with his TowMaster he installs the larger cooler so that may make all of the difference in the world.

Reason I got a John Wood trans in the first place is I was attempting to back a loaded 28ft hauler in the sand at Glamis and the stock trans kind of came undone. He showed me the death and destruction on the bench once he pulled it. It was a site.

Words of wisdom from a very 4r100 knowledgeable fella: anytime backing with a load on a Super Duty make sure you use 4WD Low. Something about fluids and pressures at that setting that save your transmission. Wish someone would've told me that beforehand. John is probably kept in business by retirees who spend alot of time backing into campsites at parks and resorts...

So to suggest that he not monitor his transmission temps because yours doesn't get hot is a bit misleading isn't it?   He has a stock transmission.  

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22 minutes ago, kofire said:

So to suggest that he not monitor his transmission temps because yours doesn't get hot is a bit misleading isn't it?   He has a stock transmission.  

MIts best to monitor everything you can. I run redundant trans sensors and the biggest help is fuel pressure and hpop gauges  (two things a powerstroke needs to run fuel pressure and oil pressure) i pulled the cts2 out of my excursion and have it in the 7.3 now i think im going to get a redundant boost gauge as well (monitor at iat probe hole) rather than factory location. I would suggest looking at a regulated return system and a oil crossover. These really help quiet and smooth out my 7.3

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2 hours ago, kofire said:

So to suggest that he not monitor his transmission temps because yours doesn't get hot is a bit misleading isn't it?   He has a stock transmission.  

Not what I said. Was just pointing out that mine never even came close to a temp of concern. He sounds like he is adding all sorts of bells and whistles so I'm sure he'll be on top of it.

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