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jwest2sh

2000 F250 7.3 upgrades (Manual hubs installed)

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3 hours ago, sinverguenza said:

I have a 4x4 question also. When turning on my truck all dash lights including the 4x4 light turns on then shuts off like normal. When I went to Glamis in October I turned the dash nob to 4x4 and then manually locked my hubs and dash light didn't come on.

Thankfully I was able to air out tires a lil and move into the campsite.

Anything I should look for?

That used to happen to my buddies 1990 Explorer all the time.  His was the push button though.  It was the electric motor on the transfer case that engaged the 4x4.  He had to climb under the truck and whack it a few times...then it would engage.  Eventually he replaced the motor and it never happened again.

~jw

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11 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

That used to happen to my buddies 1990 Explorer all the time.  His was the push button though.  It was the electric motor on the transfer case that engaged the 4x4.  He had to climb under the truck and whack it a few times...then it would engage.  Eventually he replaced the motor and it never happened again.

~jw

Cool, will look into that. Hopefully that fixes it. Don't use 4x4 and when I needed it, it didn't work.

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15 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

Great....I will give that a shot.  Thanks!  Do you happen to know if the Warn hubs for the Dana 50 are the same for the Dana 60?  I plan on doing an axle swap down the road and don't want to buy two sets of hubs if I can help it?

 

~jw

That I'm not sure about...

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Posted (edited)
On 3/19/2019 at 2:46 PM, The looney duner said:

That I'm not sure about...

Well...I did some research and unfortunately they are not the same.  :coocoo:  

I stand corrected on this....the hubs are the same for Dana 50 and Dana 60.  The box for my new hubs said Dana 60 right on them but they fit right into my Dana 50.

~jw

Edited by jwest2sh
Update

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I finally got around to installing the new to me 2016 seats.  They bolted right in with no issues.  there are two more bolts on the new seats than the old one had because it's more modular.  It folds up and down to get behind the seat and under it.  I had to relocate my amp but not a big deal.  My truck had the bungs already welded to the cab...I just had to drill through the thin sheet metal to get to them.  I couldn't believe everything lined right up.  I added seat heaters to the front two seats and put the switched on the dash.  I already had ignition switched 12+ to the dash that I had run when I did the aux fuse panel, so connecting them was easy.  Pulling the seats apart was a little bit of work but not that bad.  Everything came out nice and the new seats are super comfy.  They are the gray Pleather but I'll probably upgrade the covers when my kid gets a little older. Katskins makes some nice covers or Leatherseats.com are really nice.  You can have them make custom covers with whatever color you want in the super plush leather.  

I also took apart my 4x4 switch and headlight switch.  I un-soldered the stock incandescent bulbs and soldered in some new blue LED bulbs so they match the gauge cluster.  Now all the lights on the dash are blue.  I'll get a pic of that later.  Here are some pics of the seats.

 

~jw

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That looks good.  Nice work.

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I tried to get my stock auto hubs to unlock but they are shot.  I did some research on manual hubs and wound up buying a set of Mile Marker manual Stainless Steel hubs.  I have always run Warn hubs but I went with the Mile Marker because I like the fact that they are are mostly stainless not aluminum.  The had really good reviews.  This was probably the easiest upgrade I have done so far.  The old ones popped out and the new ones slid right in.  I ditched the wheel centers because the new hubs are much shorter than the stock auto hubs and it looked funny with them so deep in the hub center cap.  Now the front driveshaft is able to spin freely and I can use 2 wheel low to back my trailer in....and I'm not turning the front driveline all the time. I'm hoping the MPG goes up a bit. I ditched the auto hub vacuum relay and capped off the line too.

~jw

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Posted (edited)

How were your front hubs  "auto locking"?

Is the mechanism inside the hub some over retarded "auto-lock, but manual engage" type deal?

The simple visual mechanics of this don't look like you really changed anything.

I don't speak ford.  :/

Edited by Kraut_n_Rice

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1 minute ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

How were your front hubs  "auto locking"?

There is clearly an arrow to engage them manually....unless that is an over-ride type deal.

I don't speak ford.  😕

They have Auto position and Lock position.  There is no Free position.  In the auto position they are locked with vacuum from the vacuum relay is activated by the switch on the dash.  When they are in auto and the switch is off, they are supposed to spin freely....but they have a bad habit of staying locked.  Bad design.

~jw

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They kind of got engaged when 4x4 was engaged and you moved forward....I really like being able to back up my boat and stuff in 2X low with the hubs...

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Meh, on or off....  No middle.

 

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Just now, Kraut_n_Rice said:

Meh, on or off....  No middle.

 

Yup.  In my case...On and On.  LOL

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Been wanting to upgrade mine with Warn but now I will look into MM.

So let me understand this better, you can move the hubs to OFF and the wheel spins freely?

On ON the hubs lock into 4WD and you can use the dash switch to go from 4Low to 4High?

I had a problem when I was  in Glamis and had to put my truck in 4x4. Light on dash didn't turn on so I figured it wasn't working. Tried 4 Low and 4 High, nothing. I did check if I had a vacuum and it did. 

8 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

They have Auto position and Lock position.  There is no Free position.  In the auto position they are locked with vacuum from the vacuum relay is activated by the switch on the dash.  When they are in auto and the switch is off, they are supposed to spin freely....but they have a bad habit of staying locked.  Bad design.

~jw

 

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On 3/18/2019 at 10:51 PM, jwest2sh said:

Great....I will give that a shot.  Thanks!  Do you happen to know if the Warn hubs for the Dana 50 are the same for the Dana 60?  I plan on doing an axle swap down the road and don't want to buy two sets of hubs if I can help it?

 

~jw

Get a 05+ front axle and do a coil spring conversion!

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Posted (edited)

Got  more info on the seat heaters? My friend has been asking if i can install some on his 06 dodge. Truck is looking great, your making me realize i’ve been neglecting my old girl. Gotta give it some love soon

Edited by sausage450r

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On 4/12/2019 at 6:51 AM, cali kid said:

Get a 05+ front axle and do a coil spring conversion!

I'm definitely going to do a 4-link C/O conversion.  Just cant decide if I want to keep the Dana 50 and do the Full Traction kit or just get a Dana 60 off 2011 and do the BDS kit.  The Dana 60 would be more work but better in the long run.  BDS doesn't make a 4 link kit for anything older than a 2011.

~jw

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Posted (edited)
On 4/12/2019 at 8:04 AM, sausage450r said:

Got  more info on the seat heaters? My friend has been asking if i can install some on his 06 dodge. Truck is looking great, your making me realize i’ve been neglecting my old girl. Gotta give it some love soon

Yep...here's what I bought.  I've done similar kits in my buggy and the wife's car.  I went with these because I liked the rocker switches.  They seem more durable than the other ones I've used.  There are several different style switches.  You just have to decide what will work better for you application.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hi-off-Lo-rectangle-switch-seat-heater-2-seats-heated-seat-kit-fit-all-12V-cars/183629115303?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

I forgot to mention...this kit does not use that bulky relay that the other kits use.  Just the switch and the wires to the pads.  

 

~jw

Edited by jwest2sh

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Posted (edited)
On 4/12/2019 at 6:49 AM, sinverguenza said:

Been wanting to upgrade mine with Warn but now I will look into MM.

So let me understand this better, you can move the hubs to OFF and the wheel spins freely?

On ON the hubs lock into 4WD and you can use the dash switch to go from 4Low to 4High?

I had a problem when I was  in Glamis and had to put my truck in 4x4. Light on dash didn't turn on so I figured it wasn't working. Tried 4 Low and 4 High, nothing. I did check if I had a vacuum and it did. 

 

Yes.  You will still be able to use the dash switch.  2H, 4H, a and 4L.  The only difference is when you have the hubs in LOCK, the front axles and driveshaft will spin.  It will still be in 2H until you select 4H or 4L on the dash.  When you have the hubs in FREE, You will be in 2 wheel drive no matter what the dash switch is set to.  The switch on the dash will no longer control the front hubs, it will only control the transfer case.  You will also have a 2 wheel drive Low range with the hubs set to FREE and the dash switch set to 4L...which is good for backing a heavy trailer.  The 4R100 does not like backing up with a heavy load.

~jw

Edited by jwest2sh

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35 minutes ago, jwest2sh said:

Yes.  You will still be able to use the dash switch.  2H, 4H, a and 4L.  The only difference is when you have the hubs in LOCK, the front axles and driveshaft will spin.  It will still be in 2H until you select 4H or 4L on the dash.  When you have the hubs in FREE, You will be in 2 wheel drive no matter what the dash switch is set to.  The switch on the dash will no longer control the front hubs, it will only control the transfer case.  You will also have a 2 wheel drive Low range with the hubs set to FREE and the dash switch set to 4L...which is good for backing a heavy trailer.  The 4R100 does not like backing up with a heavy load.

~jw

Thanks for the info. 

Right now I have the stock ones.

How do I get 2wd Low range?

I have a lil incline at the beginning of my driveway.  I have to pull front and back several times and I'm pushing 16k

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Just now, sinverguenza said:

Thanks for the info. 

Right now I have the stock ones.

How do I get 2wd Low range?

I have a lil incline at the beginning of my driveway.  I have to pull front and back several times and I'm pushing 16k

You need manual hubs.  Set them to FREE and put the dash switch in 4L.  The hubs will not engage so you will be in 2L.

~jw

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4 minutes ago, jwest2sh said:

You need manual hubs.  Set them to FREE and put the dash switch in 4L.  The hubs will not engage so you will be in 2L.

~jw

Thanks!!!

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