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jwest2sh

2000 F250 7.3 upgrades (New injectors installed)

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I got the FRX and the CVD fittings installed. What a PITA!!!  If you have big hands...I do not recommend doing this upgrade unless you are pulling the turbo for some other reason!!!  The passenger side CVD was a nightmare. The passenger side front FRX fitting gave me a pain too but I wound up pulling the AC compressor off which made it doable.  The motor is noticeably smoother. I used the gold fuel pressure spring that comes with the FRX and it bumped my pressure from 60 to 62 lbs. turns out I had a major boost leak from the lower boots on the spider. I bought some new silicon boots and aluminum sleeves for the plentums from Riffraff. My boost climbs right up to 30psi now. I couldnt get over 25 before.  It took me about 5 1/2 hours to do the install. A couple busted knuckles and a diesel bath but that’s all part is the fun. I couldn’t install the fuel lines yet because that requires me to remove the oil cooler and I didn’t have time. Hard to see but here’s a couple pics. 

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Edited by jwest2sh

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I saw a great looking ford today that looked a lot like yours. Lookin good mr west. 

:igar:

16825460-4332-4C15-926D-F5103BD6347B.jpeg

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1 hour ago, B0NES said:

I saw a great looking ford today that looked a lot like yours. Lookin good mr west. 

:igar:

16825460-4332-4C15-926D-F5103BD6347B.jpeg

I see that truck all the time at the shop next to mine (rds framing/bts trucking). Ronnie at rds has the matching 7.3l version of that truck. Im a ho for superduty’s, they always catch my eye

Edited by sausage450r

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22 minutes ago, sausage450r said:

I see that truck all the time at the shop next to mine (rds framing/bts trucking). Ronnie at rds has the matching 7.3l version of that truck. Im a ho for superduty’s, they always catch my eye

I was in there yesterday at swift powder coating picking up some beadlocks I had done. I think I know what truck your talking about. Same color scheme but jw’s is shiner. 

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41 minutes ago, B0NES said:

 

I was in there yesterday at swift powder coating picking up some beadlocks I had done. I think I know what truck your talking about. Same color scheme but jw’s is shiner. 

Ya, thats ronnies (the dull one) Its a 2000, the one in your pic is there all the time too, its a 6.0. I work at the lone shop past swift all the way against the freeway. 

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2 hours ago, B0NES said:

I saw a great looking ford today that looked a lot like yours. Lookin good mr west. 

:igar:

16825460-4332-4C15-926D-F5103BD6347B.jpeg

Yup...that was me. had to swing by my buddies shop right there and put it on the scanner. Forgot to plug back in the oil temp sensor and it threw a code. Doh!!! 😆 

Edited by jwest2sh

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I towed a boat to the river for Labor Day.  The truck ran great and had plenty of power.  It cruised up the hills at 65 but feel like I could have gone faster.  The boost was at 28-29 psi on the steep hills, which is where my blow off is set and EGTs were 1150-1200.  The trans was switched to 4th on the steep climbs and stayed in OD on the easier ones.  The boat was about 5K loaded with stuff and it was well over 100* coming up from the desert.  My engine temp crept up on me and I think it would have kept climbing but I slowed down a little and it seemed to stop climbing.  As soon as I crested the hill it came back down to normal pretty quickly.  The trans never got over 180*.  I have never seen the engine temp climb before so I'm wondering if I have something going on?  The boat was not that heavy but it was hot outside and the motor was working.  I'm going to replace the rad cap to see if that does anything.  Could the water pump be starting to go? Or maybe a head gasket is bad?   Any of you 7.3 guys have the water temp climb before?

~jw

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18 minutes ago, jwest2sh said:

I towed a boat to the river for Labor Day.  The truck ran great and had plenty of power.  It cruised up the hills at 65 but feel like I could have gone faster.  The boost was at 28-29 psi on the steep hills, which is where my blow off is set and EGTs were 1150-1200.  The trans was switched to 4th on the steep climbs and stayed in OD on the easier ones.  The boat was about 5K loaded with stuff and it was well over 100* coming up from the desert.  My engine temp crept up on me and I think it would have kept climbing but I slowed down a little and it seemed to stop climbing.  As soon as I crested the hill it came back down to normal pretty quickly.  The trans never got over 180*.  I have never seen the engine temp climb before so I'm wondering if I have something going on?  The boat was not that heavy but it was hot outside and the motor was working.  I'm going to replace the rad cap to see if that does anything.  Could the water pump be starting to go? Or maybe a head gasket is bad?   Any of you 7.3 guys have the water temp climb before?

~jw

The 7.3 can out perform the cooling system pulling in the heat. Towing my 5th wheel in the summer in AZ I found that if I keep the RPM below 2200 the water temp doesn't climb. I can go up the hills faster but as soon as I start pushing the go pedal past 2200, the water temp will start to climb.

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I was towing my 38foot 5th wheel in about 90 degree weather and and my water temp did rise.  I forget exactly but it was about 200 degrees. it quickly went down once I was on level ground. I have also seen my trans temp go up. This time that I was towing it stayed in the 185 range. 

When coming back from OW trans usually climbs to about 205 on the 10 West when climbing the hill past Palm Springs. 

I have a brand new radiator and a 5 year old water pump. 

I have a Hydra chip but have not used it since the EGTs on my Edge CTS for some reason gets stuck.

 

All numbers above have been with stock tune.

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Just now, sinverguenza said:

I was towing my 38foot 5th wheel in about 90 degree weather and and my water temp did rise.  I forget exactly but it was about 200 degrees. it quickly went down once I was on level ground. I have also seen my trans temp go up. This time that I was towing it stayed in the 185 range. 

When coming back from OW trans usually climbs to about 205 on the 10 West when climbing the hill past Palm Springs. 

I have a brand new radiator and a 5 year old water pump. 

I have a Hydra chip but have not used it since the EGTs on my Edge CTS for some reason gets stuck.

 

All numbers above have been with stock tune.

I'm not sure what number in degrees it got to...i just have the stock gauge cluster for the water temp.  It usually rides one tic below the halfway point on the gauge.  It rose up to one tick above halfway and was climbing pretty fast.  As soon as i got off the gas and slowed down it stopped climbing.  When i got to the top of the hill it came right back down.  Just hoping i don't have a bad head gasket.  I'm going to check the oil to see if it looks milky.  My trans cooler worked great!  180* the whole way up the steepest hills...then back down to 165* everywhere else and it was 113* in Yuma! :angryfire:

~jw

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10 minutes ago, 1tonfun said:

The 7.3 can out perform the cooling system pulling in the heat. Towing my 5th wheel in the summer in AZ I found that if I keep the RPM below 2200 the water temp doesn't climb. I can go up the hills faster but as soon as I start pushing the go pedal past 2200, the water temp will start to climb.

That's kind of what I was seeing with mine too...When I pushed the RPM up to 2500-2600 it started getting hot.  I was only about 1/2 throttle and it kept wanting to go faster!  Thanks for the info.

~jw

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I doubt you have a head gasket issue, it doesn't sound like you got it hot enough to worry about. When it gets close to the red zone is when you should be concerned. I have the bigger pan and an extra cooler on the transmission and since that upgrade I have never seen the trans get past 185 when pulling hard.

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3 minutes ago, 1tonfun said:

I doubt you have a head gasket issue, it doesn't sound like you got it hot enough to worry about. When it gets close to the red zone is when you should be concerned. I have the bigger pan and an extra cooler on the transmission and since that upgrade I have never seen the trans get past 185 when pulling hard.

When my trans needs re-built I'm planning on getting a bigger pan also.  Nice upgrade!  The Mishimoto trans cooler is workin good....  I have the mishi radiator also....I was hoping it would keep it cool but looks like temps might be an issue on hot days pulling hard.  When I pull my enclosed I drive slower and put it in a lower gear so that's probably why I've never seen the temp rise? I'm looking at the gear vendors under/over drive too.

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Love this thread. Keep it up.

Bought my 02 in 04. Loved on it and spent a ton of time and money to improve it.  Had it catch on fire driving home  from Glamis to Denver in the middle of New Mexico in 2015. Never figured out what caused the fire.

No body damage. All under the hood. I had it put out in 10 minutes from smelling smoke to flames over the windshield to pulled over and my wife 2, 4 year old kids and 2 dogs out. It wasn't as bad as it could have been.

Bit of advise. Be sure to up your insurance based on the amount of money you have in her. Insurance wont pay you shit without a little extra coverage.

Insurance paid 26k to get her back on the road between the 2 Stealerships that worked on her. Super paranoid now. Don't trust her. All the work they did has been crap. This threads got me wanting to start spinning wrenches on Old Smokey again. I have many of the same mods as you. Clays gotten alot of my money. Riff Raff is a great shop to deal with. They have gone above and beyond to bail me out of a couple of issues.

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When my truck hit 275k miles, the oil seal in the turbo went out and turned it into a mosquito killer. I ended up putting single shot 175/146 injectors, Garret ball bearing turbo, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner chip,  and a complete new fuel system with regulated return. It really woke the truck up.

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2 hours ago, 1tonfun said:

When my truck hit 275k miles, the oil seal in the turbo went out and turned it into a mosquito killer. I ended up putting single shot 175/146 injectors, Garret ball bearing turbo, Adrenaline HPOP, DP Tuner chip,  and a complete new fuel system with regulated return. It really woke the truck up.

The Adrenaline HPOP is in my near future along with bellowed up-pipes with EBV delete pedestal and turbo outlet.   I was going to do a KC turbo and single shot injectors next but I'm leaning toward the gear vendors now??? :makerain:

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2 hours ago, endobear said:

Love this thread. Keep it up.

Bought my 02 in 04. Loved on it and spent a ton of time and money to improve it.  Had it catch on fire driving home  from Glamis to Denver in the middle of New Mexico in 2015. Never figured out what caused the fire.

No body damage. All under the hood. I had it put out in 10 minutes from smelling smoke to flames over the windshield to pulled over and my wife 2, 4 year old kids and 2 dogs out. It wasn't as bad as it could have been.

Bit of advise. Be sure to up your insurance based on the amount of money you have in her. Insurance wont pay you shit without a little extra coverage.

Insurance paid 26k to get her back on the road between the 2 Stealerships that worked on her. Super paranoid now. Don't trust her. All the work they did has been crap. This threads got me wanting to start spinning wrenches on Old Smokey again. I have many of the same mods as you. Clays gotten alot of my money. Riff Raff is a great shop to deal with. They have gone above and beyond to bail me out of a couple of issues.

Wow...scary!  I've heard of that happening a couple of times on other trucks.  Glad you guys got out OK.  My buggy blew a PS pump and caught fire one time.....scary chit!  I have AAA and they said they would replace it for "Fair market value", not KBB.  I should verify how they determine "Fair".  I have receipts for everything.  Thanks for the tip!

~jw

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On 9/4/2019 at 9:32 PM, jwest2sh said:

Wow...scary!  I've heard of that happening a couple of times on other trucks.  Glad you guys got out OK.  My buggy blew a PS pump and caught fire one time.....scary chit!  I have AAA and they said they would replace it for "Fair market value", not KBB.  I should verify how they determine "Fair".  I have receipts for everything.  Thanks for the tip!

~jw

I’m in the mist (within the next couple days) of seeing how true fair market value vs kbb they honor on my totaled 2003 4Runner 4wd with a total chaos front end. I had my 2002 F250 7.3 broken into a few years back and they stole my entire dash / radio bezel along with the stereo and overhead DVD player. They started with a $700 repair check (minus my $250 deductible) and tried to replace my $1200 in equipment with a stock used bezel a factory CD player. That included their recommended shop (caliber collision) doing the labor as well which needed a couple pig tails repaired that had been damaged. I painfully took the $500 check and repaired and did the labor myself. I had a gut feeling caliber under quoted the estimate in favor for AAA to later  ask for more funds after getting the job. Left a bad taste in my mouth but I’ve been loyal to AAA for 10 years and have used the piss out of their tow services. 

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On 4/14/2019 at 6:06 PM, jwest2sh said:

I'm definitely going to do a 4-link C/O conversion.  Just cant decide if I want to keep the Dana 50 and do the Full Traction kit or just get a Dana 60 off 2011 and do the BDS kit.  The Dana 60 would be more work but better in the long run.  BDS doesn't make a 4 link kit for anything older than a 2011.

~jw

Was planning the same. My 2 cents go with the conversion over the  full traction kit. The tighter turn radius and better braking will be worth the effort. Neither is cheap so I’m the meantime spend time finding a cheap donor than go through the re gearing, and ball joints ect before installing it. 

 

 

Really digging this thread sad ill be selling my ‘02 shortly as I replaced it with a ‘15 6.7L 

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On ‎9‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 12:26 PM, Intro2Rhino said:

Was planning the same. My 2 cents go with the conversion over the  full traction kit. The tighter turn radius and better braking will be worth the effort. Neither is cheap so I’m the meantime spend time finding a cheap donor than go through the re gearing, and ball joints ect before installing it. 

 

 

Really digging this thread sad ill be selling my ‘02 shortly as I replaced it with a ‘15 6.7L 

That's my plan....I've been watching a few Dana 60's out of a 2005-2007 F250 on Ebay.  My front axle is leaking anyway and it's going to need a rebuild. I figure if I'm going to be buying seals and bearings anyway...might as well buy a beat up Dana 60 and rebuild that.  Then I can just buy a Carli kit for a 2005-2007 and bolt it on with a few minor mods.  I have to research if the steering is the same, or will I need a 2005-2007 steering gear and drag link?  I plan on getting a Red Head steering gear box anyway...just don't know which one to get?  Ill call them when I'm ready...they should know if they are different.  I know the track bar is different.  If I have the cash I want to get a set of the Dynatrac free spin hubs and get rid of the one piece bearing unit.  All of that should make for a real solid driving front end. I plan on keeping this truck for a long time....especially with al the new EPA diesel stuff going on.  The older trucks might go up in value here in the near future!   

https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7151-dynatrac-free-spin-heavy-duty-hub-conversion-1999-14-ford-super-duty-f-250350-fo60-3x1104.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAiAqOriBRAfEiwAEb9oXfBKlw2ZcsmfQT1bJRBUDX8PGgIYbtj1njD9ykXU4BxcN1_hbc94CRoC14YQAvD_BwE

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Well....Ole Delilah the diesel took another dump!  Left work the other day and started her up.  She fired and surged two times, then smoothed out.  Thought...that was weird???  Drove it home from Shelter Island with no issues.  Parked my driveway and shut it down...nothing unusual. Went out the next morning and started it...it surged real bad for about 15 seconds, then died.  I couldn't get it to fire again.  Checked the oil...wouldn't even register on the dip stick.  I had planned on changing it that day anyway so I went ahead and changed it.  Only 8 quarts came out!  WTF!  I just checked it two weeks ago and no leaks.  Put a scanner on it and got two high pressure oil codes.  "Injection pressure higher or lower than desired".  Dammit.....  started researching to diagnose it.  Possible causes were injection pressure sensor, (ordered a not motorcraft one) HPOP, LPOP, leaking injector. or a check valve in the HPOP reservoir.  After the oil change it still wouldn't fire.  It won't fire unless the computer sees 500 PSI on the high pressure oil system.  I pulled the ICP sensor plug and got it to fire...that tricks the computer into seeing 700 PSI on the high pressure oil system.  It smoked and stuttered for a few minutes because of all the air in the system, then it cleaned up and idled fine.  There was some blue smoke coming out of the exhaust and I could smell oil burning.  All the gauges were normal so I let it warm up.  Took it around the block and it ran great...just smoked a little.  3500 PSI on the HPOP gauge and the LPO (low pressure oil) was in the normal range.  I shut it off and started it two or three times.  It started but not the same as usual.  I let it sit for a few minutes then started it again.  It long cranked then stumbled to a start.  Seemed like oil was draining out of the HPO system.  Called Diesel Doctor in El Cajon and described the symptoms...he immediately said injector o-rings.  He wanted $750 to replace the o-rings....but then I still have 20 year old injectors! F-that!  I called full force diesel and they told me the same thing based on the rate of oil being consumed...Injector O-rings.   A turbo leak wouldn't eat that much oil that fast.  So I ordered a set of full force injectors, single shot Stage 1.0 with 0% over nozzles.  My HPOP should be able to keep up fine and I won't get a rise in EGT's while towing and very little smoke.   Bigger nozzles will give me a little more HP but at the cost of higher EGT's.  It's not a race truck so I passed on the bigger nozzles.  $1600 shipped with glow plugs, harnesses, and valve cover gaskets.  I pulled all the intake stuff and valve covers off today and I did have a little oil in the intake tubes.  Not sure if that's from blow by or the turbo?  The turbo shaft felt like there was no play and it spun smooth.  I'll investigate that further.  I've watched a lot of videos on injector installation but have never done it.  Doesn't look that hard.  Just have to make sure to purge the oil in the cylinder before starting it.  Any other tips that might help?  Hopefully this will fix the problem.  I'll post up some pics and the results later.  I won't have the parts until Friday and I'll be in Superstition for the weekend.  

~jw 

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Update on the truck.  I got the new injectors in.  I got some new tunes from Full Force Diesel and got those uploaded into the PCM.  I also had the intercooler tubes and intake spider powder coated at Swift Powder coating while it was apart.  I changed out the ICP sensor also just because.  I went ahead and changed the injector cups while I had the injectors out.  They all looked good and I didn't find any cracks but I did it just for peace of mind.  I did a compression test on all 8 cylinders.  No one makes a tester for the 7.3.  I ended up buying a diesel compression test kit from Harbor Freight and modifying it with a grease gun whip extension and a couple brass 1/8NPT fittings.  There are several good YouTube videos on it.  I took a little while but worth it to know the health of my motor.  Ford says that 375lbs is a good healthy engine.  Here's what mine had:

1: 400lbs

2: 400lbs

3: 380lbs

4: 410lbs

5: 400lbs

6:  400lbs

7: 390lbs

8: 400lbs

It took about 5 ten second cranks to fire since the HPOP was dry.  Now it starts right up.  Once it burned off the oil in the exhaust from changing the injectors it runs great and has no smoke.  I changed the oil again and did a radiator flush on it as well, just in case any coolant or diesel got in to the oi, or oil in the coolant.  The power is very smooth with the new injectors and tunes.  I've been babying it until all the air is out of the high pressure oil system so I haven't been able to compare the power or mpg differences.  Here's a couple pics.  You can see the O-rings on the injectors are deteriorated. 

~jw

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Just a quick update on the new injectors.....  They run so smooth and the power is awesome.  They are only 1 size up from stock but they really run good.  The only issue I had was I blew the turbo boots off twice.  I had a little oil on the freshly powder coated intake tubes and the boots slipped off.  Once from the turbo side and once from the intercooler side.  Cleaned them up and haven't blown them off anymore.  The truck has not consumed an ounce of oil so the injectors were my only issue.  I'm going to do one more radiator flush to make sure any oil that got into the cooling system is out.  

~jw

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I thought they made extra long boots or dimpled pipes to prevent that?

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what kind of boost did you see?

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